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On Track
features structured discussions on topics and questions relative to
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To Review A List of Topics Previously Covered in On Track, select
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Recently Closed Topics:
Making Coon Bait. Coon Trappers: Do you make your own bait from items you
obtain or buy in your local area? What do you use and/or what is your
recipe? Review This Topic
Dry Land or
Water Sets. Coon Trappers: what portion of your coons are taken on dry
land, and what portion of your coons are taken in water sets? What are your
reasons for using either kind of set?
Review This Topic
Tuning Up a Trap. All Trappers: What are the
minimum adjustments or modifications you make to a land trap. Or do you
use your traps straight as they come from the box?
Review This Topic
Trap Maintenance. All trappers: What kind of maintenance and
repair do you perform on your traps at the end of the season or during the
off season. What problems do you look for?
Review This Topic
Replies:
Making Coon Bait. Coon Trappers: Do you make your own bait from items you
obtain or buy in your local area? What do you use and/or what is your
recipe?
*******************************************************************************
Name: fox fanatic
This is the recipe that i use. buy a cheap bag of dog chow, small kibbel
type. mix about 1 gallon dog food with a jar of strawberry jam. add jam till
dog food is completly saturated. this is a very sweet bait and has produced
alot of coons for me.
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Name: Coonchaser
I use leftover Gizzard shad (extra bait from my trotline ventures in the
spring/summer). They are very easy to obtain with a cast net,and they
usually die as soon as they get in the net(or shortly therafter). So instead
of leaving them for waste I simply pack them into a jar and make oil out of
them, or fill a ziplock bag and put water over them and freeze them for next
trapping season.
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Name: skipper
my absolute favoriate coon bait is the fall out from the local seafood
restruant.(crab shuckings, shrimp shells, table waste, ect.) I also make a
paste out of raisans, peanutbutter, bannas, and cherry extract. and load
this into an old calking gun cartrage. makes a great dispencer.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Charles Sanders
I tried mixing Jack Mackeral with peanut butter this year and it worked very
well. It has a strong smell to draw them in, and the peanut butter helps it
stick to the backs of the pockets or bait holders.
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Name: Caleb Zapor
Get a sixteen ounce flip top bottal an fill it with 1 ounce of honey 1 ounce
of anise shake the bottal to mix up honey and anise. Now get some shellfish
oil or fish oil and fill the rest of the bottal. shake it up before each use
to get all the mixture. My favorit set with this lure is in a wooded ditch
where coon or mink are using the colverts. Make a pocket set put some of the
lure on the outside of the hole. Then rub it in with your hands and put some
fish in the back of the hole.
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Name: Lost trapper
We spear suckers and carp. WE gut them and save off the hearts and livers
add a little cheap vegetable oil and put them in a food proccessor then
liquify. We smear it around pockets and on crossing logs. The fish we split
up some get frozen some salted and ground to paste. WE also collect egg
shells and fresh water mussel shells we find on the banks of ponds and
streams. Nothing fancy but it woks and its cheap.
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Name: Mark Neugebauer
Put whole trout in a blender and then can the trout paste.
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Name: trapper kid 93
I do both. I buy grinded up salmon mixed with shellfish oil from my furbuyer
and it works great for everything but mainly coons and mink.
I buy my commercial lures from online sites such as Sullivan's Line which
also work great.
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Name: Jacob Johnston
What I do is set a minnow trap in the summer(you can buy them in outdoor
catalogs and Walmart) and freeze the minnows till winter. i usually soak
them in salmon oil to make it have a farther calling reach. and are usually
put in a pocket set or cubby. Make sure they arent frozen when used. You can
chop em up if you want to.
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Name: Devan Gillmor
i have already started collecting for this coming season i gut and chunk
trash fish,(carp, sheep-head, gar,...) then freeze, for bait. for
attractant, i'm going to start sun rendering for juice and oil.
Dry Land or
Water Sets. Coon Trappers: what portion of your coons are taken on dry
land, and what portion of your coons are taken in water sets? What are your
reasons for using either kind of set?
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Name: Coonchaser
I prefer water sets over land sets simply because I have alot of small
streams, creeks, and lakes in my area. The farms around here mostly produce
hay and cattle, so there are not many row crop fields to be found.
*******************************************************************************
Name: skipper
on my water line about 50/50 I set the banks as heavy as I set the water I
realize that all the critters running the banks are not going to come down
to the water. Also when High water comes I will still be catching fur. On my
fox coon line the ratio is about 75% dry and 25% in the drink just bu the
nature of the line.
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Name: Charles Sanders
About 50/50 for me. I catch alot of coons in transit from place to place in
blind sets. Most of these are dryland. When I use a baited set I generally
put it close to the water, preferably on a drowner.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Caleb Zapor
Water and land sets for coon are the same and diffrent if you want to be a
good trapper you need to learn coon habits. If you learn coon habits you can
find the hottest locations to set. Over the years I have devolped a system
that uses map and note books. the notebooks are for writing down the number
of catches that you get at a certain coon hot spot. After you use a notebook
for a certain county you can see the best spots and the only set there and
then you will have a top notch trapping area that trappers will die for. The
maps or plat books are for finding the hot locations. this is what has made
me so sussecful in my trapping. My last words to the young trappers is to
first understand the animals that you are after. GOOD LUCK TRAPPING
*******************************************************************************
Name: trapper kid 93
It's probably 50/50 because in the winter I move to a new spot where the
coon are over populated and water is frozen so water trapping isn't possible
and I tend to get bigger bore coons on land than in the water. In the
beginning of the season I water trap because it's easy and works out since
they're already dead and I catch more than just coons.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Ric
Early in the season 90% of sets targeting raccoon will be dry. Meaning away
from the water not just on the bank. This eliminates a large percentage of
young of the year for me. Later on I will move back to the water. Ground
conditions have usually become muddy by then and water sets are easier to
keep operational and those Raccoon that were 8-10 lb at the start of the
season will be in the 12-14 pound range
*******************************************************************************
Name: Devan Gillmor
this will be my first season back at it so will go with what i know, water
sets.
Tuning Up a Trap. All Trappers: What are the
minimum adjustments or modifications you make to a land trap. Or do you
use your traps straight as they come from the box?
*******************************************************************************
Name: ingvalsone
for the fully modified bridger's (personal prefence) i would at least file
down the dog because there usally to long, rig for double staking and adjust
pan tension
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Name: skipper
Some of the traps I have seen won't even set out of the box. I love
tinkering but probally wouldn't have to do all I do but the absoulute
minimum I would do is to take out the back and forth travel out of the
dog(by closing up the eye) and square up the dog/pan engaugement and level
the pan. If I did this I could probally sleep after setting.
*******************************************************************************
Name: cwest
shorten the travel of the pan, 2#'s tension on pan, Base plate and
lamination, rigged 3 swivels, in-line spring,chain and super stake.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Paul of Harrisburg
Minimum: File to "night Latch" the firing system.
Most times I also get the pan to sit level, set pan tension to match target
species and drop with a smooth motion. I also add more swivels and center
mount the chain on the bottom of the trap frame.
I like to have very little "pan drop" needed to fire the trap.
When I finish each trap tuning/modification, I fire it and then add my ID
tag.
By the way,if you buy a few different brands of trap to try, you will learn
alot about a different trap brands while performing these mods/tunings, and
you will discover which you like best for your type of trapping situations.
In my opinion, there's alot of satisfaction in store for you when you know
that each and every trap you lay in the ground, is set up to fire just
right, and when the target critter takes that final step on the pan, you
have left very little to "chance".
*******************************************************************************
Name: Rick B
I file the dog and make pan tension adjustments thanks to your trap tester.
Also, I make chain adjustments by adding swivels and shortening the chain.
*******************************************************************************
Name: seg_sgt1
Night latch for minimum pan drop, adjust for 4 lbs pan tension, 9 inches of
straight link chain w/three swivels, 18 inch cable stake
*******************************************************************************
Name: trapper kid 93
For land traps I always have a shock spring and 1-2 swivels in the chain and
are generally all off-set or double jaw
s*******************************************************************************
Name: Daniel
i tune all traps so my pan is as level as possible. on predator traps i file
a night latch, center swivel, square off dog and put extra swivels in chain
and sometimes heavier chain.
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Name: wilderness46
It depends on what size trap and what animal I am targeting. On K9 traps I
cut factory chain off. I crimp on a cold shut in the middle, on bottom part
off frame. I used to weld a base plate w/ a D-ring on but I soon realized
it's way to much work and completly unecessary for some traps (And I am
certified welder). Then I like 2 links of #2 chain then swivel,6in. peice of
chain, then rivit, swivel, and lap link. As for I pinch pan post. So there
is no slop. Replace screw w/ #10 flat tip. I will bend pan so it is flat
(they never are).I file a night latch in.1/16in. trigger. I WANT NO PAN
TENSION. only what is provided by power jaw w/ dog to pan. I like a low pan
,just below jaws. I will 4 coil it .then some minor filing. other critters
things might be different.
*******************************************************************************
Name: corley trawick
Most of the time traps from the box are not even close to being adjusted. SO
I check each one carefully an make adjustments as reqired.
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Name: Tony Fitz
The absolute minimum is square the dog and notch. To go further is a box
swivel at the 3rd chain link from the trap, and level the pan.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Lucas
Center d-ring on baseplate, level pan,4 swivel points in chain, with pan
tension and night latch.
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Name: Rabbitt
Add a double stake swivel and an inline swivel
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Name: COONCHASER
Upon purchase, the first task is to relocate the chain to the bottom of the
trap frame. Then i will roughly check the pan tension and position and
adjust accordingly. Next i will allow traps to rust for dying purposes. Then
traps will be dyed and waxed. Finally pan tension will be checked again, and
adjusted if needed. Now the equipment is ready for the line.
*******************************************************************************
Name: varmintshooter
Center base chain, pan adjustment to 2 pounds for fox 4 for coyote. Inline
shock spring (JC Connors) Off Set with lamation inside and out, and jaw tips
get a welded bead or bent to an upward position.
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Name: tuff
Night latch, pan tension, move chain to center of trap.
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Name: Foxtrapper
The first thing you need to check is that it runs smooth with no rust er
nothin on it, the pan is at the right tension, and it is the right size for
the animal you are targeting.
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Name: jeff
i believe a base plat, more swivels and the jaws should be lamated and maby
four coiling it
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Name: Eric
I use Bridger #1.65 traps and a few thing I like to do to my traps are
tighten the dog I also change the springs to Springs from a Bridger # 2 or #
3 trap and I try to take all the slop out of the pan that I can then my
traps are ready to be dyed and waxed.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Lost trapper
It depends on the trap and the target animal. Minimums for me are to adjust
chain legth and add at least one swivel. i do like the night latch set up on
the pan, but I modify that by filing the end of the dog on the bottom. With
less steal at the contact piont I find the trap fires just a fraction of a
second faster. Down side is I replace dogs every couple years.
*******************************************************************************
Name: mike
if i could only make one modification or adjustment, it would be to add
swivels to the trap chain. but i do not use a trap that hasnt been modified,
cleaned and if not dyed, at least waxed.
*******************************************************************************
Name: poorvalley
i all ways bend the dog end to set the pan level and losen the pan as needed
*******************************************************************************
Name: Charles Sanders
I like to add an extra swivel in the middle of the chain, and to comply with
regs here I have to shorten all my foothold trap chains to 8" or less. I
tried Formula One trap dip this year and really liked it. Other than that I
use them straight out of the box.
*******************************************************************************
Name: trappintime
Victor #3 softcatch that are used for canines. I take the pan off and cut
the pan down in size and then I file the notch on the pan back at an angle
so that I can set the trap and know that it has a hair trigger. I also add a
way of double staking to the chain and add another swivel.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Dennis Eagle
For Victor 1.75 I center swivel; bend jaw tips upward; tighten pan and
adjust pan height; file dog end and pan notch; I have about 80 traps with
four links of twin loop ending with split ring (for grapple rigs) and about
35 with the same twin loop ending with double stake swivel for staked sets.
*******************************************************************************
Name: jsevering
minimum tuning for me would be adding a box swivel mid chain, night latching
along with twinking, squeezing the dogs loop into a more oval than round
shape....jim
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Name: dale
no straight from the box
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Name: Hal
First tune up the firing system. I remove the pan bolt and the pan. I file
down the sides of the pan shank where it goes between the ears of the post
to smooth it up. I also file inside the pan post to remove any rough spots.
Then I put the pan back inside the post, and squeeze the post with vice
grips square up the post against the sides of the pan. I add a nightlatch to
the pan. I square up the end of the dog and close down the loop at the end
of the cross frame. I reassemble the pan and level it with the dog engaged.
If the chain is not centered on the bottom of the trap, I move it there. If
the trap does not have at least four swiveling points in the chain, I add an
additional swivel mid way. These are the minimum adjustments.
Back to Top
Trap Maintenance. All trappers: What kind of maintenance and
repair do you perform on your traps at the end of the season or during the
off season. What problems do you look for?
Name: skipper
On my # 11's (pinch pans) I inspect the closing on the bottom of the pan and
if opened or damaged I will put a spot weld on the tip. Level all pans check
pan notches inspect all rivets on the swivels. then boil (clean) dye and wax
this is all footholds.
on my bodygrip traps I inspect all pivot rivets all trigger fastening bolts
or rivets and reloop all my mink triggers on the ones that need replacing I
flatten the ends of the trigger wires with a hammer, then drill a hole in
the flat spot and add the wire loop. then in a pan with about 1/2 inch wax
in I wax the sides of the traps with the rivets . my bodygrips have the
chain removed so I add new wire or cable if needed
*******************************************************************************
Name: cwest
Clean and inspect trap and fastener. look for stretched openings in swivels
or J-hooks. make sure pan sets level in trap. inspect jaw hinges and
springs. file dogs to a sharp bevel. check travel. set tension. dye and wax.
hang in store room until next season.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Paul of Harrisburg
I look at the swivel system, anchor system, ID Tag, and all parts of the
trap. I set each, assure the pan sits as level as possible with the jaws,
check for a straight dog, and that the night latch still works effectively.
Then I boil and wax before storing for the off season.
If there are any repairs needed, I put it aside, and write it down on a
list. After going through all the traps, I aquire the needed components and
replace them, tune each trap, and put out to ruct the new parts before
boiling and waxing.
I store all my traps in a dry location in barrels with lids.
*******************************************************************************
Name: seg_sgt1
A good cleaning then check for broken parts/weak springs. Springs or parts
get replaced and traps dyed/waxed, adjustments are made such as pan tension
and drowning cables added on water traps. Lastly, stored in plastic airtight
containers.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Daniel
asap after season i wash all dirt and blood off of them and then store in
water tight containers. for pre-season prep i power wash all of them then
let dry. next i tune them, dye them and wax them. then clean was from pan
notches before storing them in air tight containers.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Tony Fitz
Check for rust and free function. Make sure the trap when set is square and
level, check chain integrity, then boil, dye and re-wax. Put away in clean 5
gal buckets
*******************************************************************************
Name: Lost trapper
I take them to the car wash and hose them down hard with lots of soap, then
go home adjust them to working order and boil um up.
*******************************************************************************
Name: Charles Sanders
I clean my traps by boiling with some dishwasher detergent and then
redipping in Formula One. Before that I try to add any hardware I'm gonna
add that year so it'll all be cleaned and dipped as well. I look for loose
jaws, loss of spring tension, bent pans, and other trap abnormalities.
*******************************************************************************
Name: trappintime
Victor #3 softcatch traps. First I visualy check the trap for any bending or
cracking. Then check all J hooks or other connecting devices to make sure
they will not let go. Check all shock springs so that they operate properly.
I put the trap in a vice by the base plate and set trap, then spring the
trap checking for smooth operation. Replace softcatch rubber pads as needed.
*******************************************************************************
Name: rich shea
straighten pans and dogs check for level and pan tension, set and fire all
foothold traps, re-dip
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Name: Dennis Eagle
For land traps: Grapple rigs-I separate grapple; extension chain; and trap.
I bundle chain, grapples, traps in lots of 4-6 and hang on chain prior to
cleaning. I bundle double staked rigged traps same way. #11 water traps same
way. I remove old wire from all conibears and also hang them. All these
traps are hung by wire on long length of 2/0 chain I string between three
trees in the backyard.
After this I set down, as time permits, and look over each trap and remove
vegetation, dirt, crud, using a wire brush when necessary. I set each trap
to see if it needs adjustment, also testing the springs. Weak springed traps
are set aside until all traps have been gone through, then I order new
springs for these. After this I boil the traps in a large pot of water, with
liquid draino added, using a fish cooking rig and butane for heat. After the
traps low boil for about a half hour I insert a water hose and run water
into the pot until the water runs over the pot and carries the crud with it.
I then remove the traps and rehang them on my 2/0 chain "clothesline". When
all the traps are ready (footholds are stained and waxed) I mix some logwood
extract in the large pot with fresh water and then boil all the traps in it,
rehanging them on the clothesline as I go. Next I set a large pot of wax on
the cooker and then dip all the traps. After dipping I rehang them on the
clothesline, then shortly after I put all them in 30 gallon plastic barrels
with lids and lockrings, to store until just prior to next season.
Conibears are done the same as far as cleanup and removal of old wire. All
triggers that need replacing are done at this time. Instead of staining and
wax I dip them in black trap dip. I stack them in my shed on shelves until
the next season.
A couple weeks prior to opening of trap season I spend a day removing all
traps from storage and rehanging them on my 2/0 chain "clothesline" to air
out in the open air.
The main problems I have are keeping strong springs on all land traps, and
making sure each trap is adjusted correctly when stored. Time is too short
to have to adjust traps when starting to set at the start of another season.
*******************************************************************************
Name: jsevering
i usally check the quick link at the end of the chain, look for excess wear
on the swivels or swivel body, j hook wear at the frame if the trap isnt
baseplated, spring strength, make sure nothing is out of line to bind the
trap up where its a pain to set or slows the traps action... hit the night
latch and twink the dog again if needed,then put a nail or twig between the
jaws or at the lug if offset for the dye and waxing....jim
*******************************************************************************
Name: Hal
As soon as I bring traps in off the line, I wash the heavy mud an dirt off
them if needed. Then I inspect each trap for broken, missing, or bent parts
and straighten, replace, or repair. I inspect the firing system on all
traps, and touch them up with a file where necessary. I also inspect each
trap to see that my name tag is still there. I try to have all my trap
maintenance done and my traps waxed or dipped and hung for storage by late
spring.
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