On Track Pg. 1

Information, Resources, and On-Line Trapping Forum

Previously Discussed On Track Topics

Topics:

Stretching Canine Pelts. Canine Trappers: Do you stretch your pelts on wire or wood? Please comment. Review This Topic

Mink Traps. Mink Trappers: What trap do you prefer for mink and why? Review This Topic

Canine Sets. Canine Trappers: What is your favorite canine set? What is your second favorite set? Please describe. Review This Topic

Trapping Seasons. All Trappers: What are the opening and closing dates for furbearers in your state? Do you think this is too early, too late, or are you satisfied with the seasons? Review This Topic

Beaver Traps. Beaver Trappers: What kind of trap do you use for beaver? What is your: first choice, second choice, third choice? Please comment. Review This Topic

Selling Fur. All Trappers: Where do you sell your fur? (1) Local buyer. (2) Local trappers' auction. (3) Shipped to large auction. (4) Shipped to buyer. Please comment. Review This Topic

Pan Tension. All Trappers: How much pan tension do you use on your traps? Please comment by species. Review This Topic

Trapping Videos: How many if any trapping videos have you purchased? Are you satisfied with the quality of these videos? What is your biggest complaint about trapping videos? Review This Topic

Sets for Mink. Mink Trappers: Do you use primarily baited sets or blind sets for mink -- or both? What percentage of your mink are taken by each type of set? Review This Topic

Wax and/or Dip: What method do you prefer for protecting your traps and why? Review This Topic

Coyote Traps. Coyote Trappers: What size traps do you use for coyotes? Do you prefer 4-coil traps or 2-coil traps? What would you consider to be the minimum size trap for reliably taking coyotes? Review This Topic

Replies:

Stretching Canine Pelts. Canine Trappers: Do you stretch your pelts on wire or wood? Please comment.

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Name: trappnman
I stretch mine on wire. While wood might give a better pelt, and I am not sure that they do, in my area the average humidity levels are high during trapping season, and pelts dry quicker with wire- better air circulation. Wire also takes less up less space when hanging up drying pelts. The main disadvantages of wire is rust. I sand down and run a rag with silicone over the strechers in the fall, and wipe them again before putting them away at seasons end. To me the big advantage of wood is "soul". I put up all my mink on wood, and still use boards that my granfather and dad used. In fact, I have a nifty hand carved mink fleshing board that my grandfather made that i use daily....trappnman
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Name: r. morey
i like to strech mine on wire.
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Name: watache
wood they look fuller
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Name: dave m.
i stretch all my fox and coy on wire you can do good job on wire might be quicker then wood allthough wood might do better job cost is also facter when you have lot of stretchers
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Name: MARTIN
Email: BEAVER330@AOL.COM
I THINK EVERYBODY PUTS UP THEIR RATS ON WIRE, I ALSO USE WIRE FOR GRINNERS AND STINKERS. MINK OF COURSE GO ON WOOD.I'VE BEEN USING WIRE FOR COON, BUT THIS SEASON WILL BE TRYING WOOD.
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Name: Brent Lindman
I find that canines strech on wood strechers seem to have a fuller look to them. Fur seems fuller and the shape seems to hold better . I even would go farther and say that you get a better looking pelt off a solid board rather then a split one. Of the 100 coyotes I done last year all we streched on wooden baords . I even find foxes come out better.
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Name: Ethan
I streach mine on wire usually.
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Name: Hal
While I used to stretch my canines on wire, I now use wood stretchers exclusively for canines. Some of the negative factors pointed out above are true. Wood does take up more room, wood stretchers do cost more, and it does take longer to put the pelt on a wood stretcher. But wood stretchers do yield a better looking pelt (especially in the neck area) and canines stretched on wood generally command a slightly higher price. The problem of rust on wire stretchers was mentioned above. When canines are turned fur side out for final drying on a wire stretcher, it is possible for the leather to absorb rust off the stretcher, especially if the leather is still damp. When a rust-stained hide reaches the tanning process, the leather can actually deteriorate because of the rust, and the hair will fall out of the pelt at that spot. If the rust stain is bad, the pelt can actually fall in two. Large buyers know this, and therefore usually pay a slight premium for canines stretched on wood.

Mink Traps. Mink Trappers: What trap do you prefer for mink and why?

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Name: trappnman
While I have caught many mink in longsprings, both #1 and #1 1/2, I have come to the conclusion that the 1 1/2 coil is the perfect mink trap- 1) it fits well in blind sets and in pockets 2) It is big enough and fast enough to catch a mink high on the foot 3) It has enough weight to cleanly drown a mink 4)it will hold coon if desired 5) makes excellant fox/coon trap on land 5) Relatively inexpensive trap
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Name: russell morey
i like to use the #1 jumper. it fits nicely and doesnt get in the way.
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Name: watache
with out a doubt 1 1/2coil catches high & takes them down fast also hold all coons
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Name: dave m.
i prefer1 1/2 coil for mink when water trapping on drown wire if possible. plenty trap for mink good for coon rats that come along, i have used no.1 with good luck also 110 conni. works good for occasional mink when set for rat on run or in bottom edge like on bridge or culvert wall
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Name: Alaskan Man
I use Sleepy Creek #1 double coilsprings. It is LIGHTNING FAST, it grabs them low and is ultra compact. It also comes from the factory with a one piece frame, a one piece pan, the " coyote tuff " chain it comes with is center mounted, it is a great length and has a strong double box swivel. Need I say more?
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Name: Keith Blackwood
The #1-1/2 coil spring. This trap is fast easy to bed, and heavy enough to keep any mink under water.
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Name: MARTIN
110'S IN BLIND SETS, PICK UP RATS ALSO, 11/2 COILS AT POCKET SETS WITH SLIDE WIRES ALSO HANDLES COON.
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Name: Edward Schafer
I prefer the 1 1/2coilspring. It has plenty of power to hold a mink and will hold the coons that happen along. It is also heavy enough to drown the mink.
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Name: Brent Lindman
Myself I perfere using 120 conibers for mink . Here in northern Alberta Freeze up comes early and open water is a permium. With the 120 you can get the setts out of site and also it is quick and human. I use natural cubbes EI. old rat dens ect. I would like to try the ram mini snare as i believe this would be effective but a little worried about fur damage.
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Name: Hungry
I have been trying to trap a mink for three years, I have used
110's and 1.5cs all with equal results(zero). Guess I need more info about their habits.

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Name: Travis
I prefer a victor foot hold trap because when minks are roaming for food thats when it comes in handy. it isnt so big the mink can see it.
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Name: Nathan Meek
The trap I use for the mink the most often is the 110 conibear. I like conibears because, the animal is dies very quickly and dosent struggle much. The creek I trap for mink on in most places is not deep anuff to drown mink. So my best trap to use would be the conibear.
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Name: zac
For mink I use the 1.5 double coil in water and on land, when Ice and snow are a factor
I use the larger 1.75. Both traps are good for mink all season but the
1.75 will come up through Ice and snow as well as hold coyotes and fox
that run the high banks around some mink streams
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Name: Hal
I guess my trap of choice for mink is the #110 magnum. I don't like the regular #110's for mink because I've found too many live mink in them. I also equip all my #110's with a Circle Trigger, which results in a better strike on the mink. But the bodygrips aren't applicable in all situations, and when a foothold is called for I usually set a #1-1/2 coil. The foothold trap I really like for mink is the #1 jump, but they've been out of production for ten years, and I hesitate to recommend them. Of course, all the footholds I set for mink are rigged to drown the animal. I do not make non-lethal sets for mink.

Canine Sets. Canine Trappers: What is your favorite canine set? What is your second favorite set? Please describe.

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Name: Trapper62
Dirt Hole for Red Fox and a flat set for Coyote! Or a bait pile and snares.

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Name: the foxman
I use different types of dirt hole sets and that's it!!
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Name: GORDEE
The dirthole set has taken the most canines for me because they are quick and can be forced in about anywhere. When I have a "spot of ground", that is easy to blend, I use a flat set that generally uses a rock for backing. For fun, when you have the time and the critter available, try burying a skunk. Remember to use proper guiding and backing to guide the coyote over the pan when he attempts to get at the buried treasure. This is a sure catch coyote set and a fun changeup. Not many experiences beat handcuffing 'ol Wily!
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Name: dusty
i do a lot of snaring, but for dirt sets i like a double dirt hole or a post hole set
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Name: Brent Lindman
up here in Albeta it has to be running trail snares. We have a large coyote population and once the snow comes the trails are the place to set snares. My second favorite set has to be a dirt hole set before it freezes up solid. I perfure to set a 1-1/2 double spring at these early fall sets. Big enough to hold a coyote yet won't damage foxes .
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Name: catman
I would have to say my favorite is what I call the eastern walk through. The dirthole was pretty much standard for my area for about the first 10 years I had trapped. By standard, I mean a 6-9 inch inch hole dug at a 45 degree angle, trap close to hole offset maybe 1-2 inches. The bait would be placed in the hole with a shot of red fox gland lure in the hole. Red fox urine would then be shot on the backing. This set could be relied on to take any fox around, red or grey, and also any coon, skunk, or possum. Then the coyotes came. This set became a nightmare. Dirtholes scratched out too twice their size, traps uncovered- sometimes flipped over, sometimes just a bit of metal showing. Twice I found coyote dung dumped on the backing. This went on for two years. I struggled with trap placement, should I set 8-10" for coyote or closer for fox and hope for the best. I also found any smells should be placed below ground as any gland lure, fox pee, etc. placed on backing will get a shoulder roll from a yote. Then while scouting a well location 2-weeks into season I found fresh coyote scat. There were numerous rocks around about 4-8 inch. I made a dirthole against a large rock. Trap was bedded about 2 inches from hole. An idea hit me to place a rock on the offside jaw also, for foot placement. This was positioned as close as I could, without interfering with the trap. Bait & lure went in the hole & the scat went on the rock opposite the hole. Three days later I had my first coyote. I then read an article on John Graham in the Dec-1999 F-F-G which described his walk through set. I was amazed at the similarity between this and what I had come up with. I've also used this with scent posts succesfully-caught my first Pa bobcat on it. Have had good succsses on coyotes-fox-bobcats- as there is only one place too step. I don't worry so much about trap placement anymore. Also if you can read the article I mentioned, it will give you a good idea on set construction. Sorry this is so long, I hope it helps someone catch a coyote.
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Name: trappnman
I have 2 favorite canine sets. In cultivated fields, I like the flat set - make the set against a small backing to direct the K-9. In sod such as pastures, I find a stepdown set works very well. In fact only twice have I caught 5 coyotes at the same set, and both of these sets were standard stepdowns. In my area, a regular dirthole is not very effective.
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Name: Trappertuck
First the dirt hole set then the trail set. I like the dirt hole because it has eye apeal, stirs curiosity. makes them hungry, etc etc etc. the dirt hole set has taken more animals then any of the other sets combined. As a matter of fact I think adam and eve used the dirt hole set its been around a long time for a reason, cause it works. I also like the trail set because it takes very little time and effort to put in, and is very effective and there is little doubt about set location.
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Name: Grinner
Just started using the tapered step-down dirthole and it is already my favorite. Second favorite would have to be a flat set.
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Name: BeaverWeb
double dirt hole then the chaff pile set
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Name: trappnman
My favorite canine set is the walk through flat set. Made with field change ups as backings, with two attractor holes, it is my most productive set by far. Use a different bait/lure in each hole. My second favorite coyote set is the stepdown, exactly as the Leggett's describe it for fox- I make no changes, and it is excellant in sod.
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Name: Steve Gappa
1) Number 1 favorite is the walkthrough flat set. By using this set, I can take advantage of the incidentals in my area. A walkthrough set keeps the coyotes interest at the set longer, resulting in a higher % of caught yotes. I use 2 small vertical bait holes under the front edge of the backing, about 8-10 inches apart. The trap is part of an equallateral triangle with the holes. The outer jaw is guarded by a dropping or similar sized object. 2) Stepdown dirthole, exactly like the Leggett's describe for fox - it works great on coyotes in sod areas - much better for yotes in my area than standard dirtholes.
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Name: Hal
My choices aren't much different from other folks. I use about a 50-50 mix of dirtholes and flat sets with my foot traps. But I do believe the dirthole is easier for beginners to master. And I do like my snares for those coyotes when the situation presents itself.

Trapping Seasons. All Trappers: What are the opening and closing dates for furbearers in your state? Do you think this is too early, too late, or are you satisfied with the seasons?

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Beaver - Open year around to trapping, shooting and water snaring. Mink and Weasel - October 28 - March 18 Muskrat - October 28 - March 18 Muskrat Spring - March 19 - May 13 Bobcat - November 11 - March 18 Red Fox, Coyote, Coon and Badger Open year around Fox/Coyote - Night hunting Nov.18 - March 25 (NO Spotlights)

I argree with all of the dates set by our G&F. Our spring rat season does not allow floats sets, or trapping/snaring in or around the houses which I don't agree with, especially the float sets.

I also disagree with us having to tag our snares, especially when we need written permission to trap on private land anyway.

We are also allowed to shoot mink, weasel and rats which I disagree with! ******************************************************************* Name: trapr731
November 18 - February 11 on everything but rats, nutria and beaver, they open november 18 - march 31. I am mostly satisfied with our season, except to otters go out of season before beaver. ******************************************************************* Name: Rick S
The seasons in WI vary by a couple of weeks either way based on zone but these are the GENERAL dates:

Raccoon: Mid October - end of January. Coyote / Fox: Mid-late October - mid February. Muskrat: End of October - end of February (later close for Horicon). Mink: End of October - end of December. Otter: December to late March / early April (special permit required). Beaver: Early November to end of April. Bobcat: Mid Ocober - end of December (permit required). Fisher: Early November - end of December (permit required). Skunk, Weasel, Opossum - open year-round.

As far as giving maximum opportunity to a trapper we have liberal season lengths. As we all know that can be good or bad. Raccoons are not prime in October (with a few exceptions), but the month of November many people are more concentrated on trying to bag one of our 1.7 million deer rather than running sets for prime coon. I won't tell people that they shouldn't trap in October though, it may be the only opportunity they have to enjoy the activity. In my opinion our beaver season should mirror our otter season. Right now very early or very late beaver trappers take incidential otters that they may hesitate to turn in for salvage to the DNR because of the season being colsed and them not being able to use a tag if they have one. The down side of changing the beaver season would be restricting the amount of open water fall and spring trapping available to beaver trappers up north. Other than that, I am very happy with the opportunity offered by these season lengths. ******************************************************************* Name: the foxman
In Indiana fox and yotes Oct 15 everything else Nov. 15. This is to early, lots of blue coon. I would like to see fox and yotes Nov 15 and everything else first saturday after Thanksgiving. ******************************************************************* Name: Tony Vuxta
The trapping season in Pennsylvania for foxes and raccoons opens up in the middle of October. I feel this is too early, the foxes aren't quite prime and the coon aren't even close. The water trapping which starts in November is also a little early cause the mink and rats don't seem that great. The seasons are all right if you just are patient and wait till the fur is worth trapping. ******************************************************************* Name: Marcus
My season starts in November and ends in March. I'd have to say that the season is just fine. ******************************************************************* Name: george
our season opens mid oct. (land trapping and coons) mink and rats right before thanksgiving. the land trapping is to early but just because the season opens then we dont have to set and a lot of us just wait until fur is primer. ******************************************************************* Name: Redfox12172
Fox, Raccoon, Bobcat - (15 November - 28 February). Mink, Muskrat, Beaver - (01 December - 28 February). I think our opening dates are o.k.. Closing dates for Fox and Mink are too late in the year. I understand and approve of the rational of keeping all the water animals open the same amount of time - It eliminates having to sacrifice animals to G&F. Our Fox season used to close on 31 January and I think we should go back to that. Fox fur is completely shot by then so there isn't much since in taking them. I don't have enough experience with Bobcats to be able to say if the end of February is to late or not. The end of February is probably too late for coon, but we have so many of them and they're not worth a heck of alot when they're fully prime right now anyway. ******************************************************************* Name: GORDEE
These dates are for the southern zones of WI.: Otter-Dec.2-Mar.4 Beaver-Nov.4-April 30 Racoon-Oct.14-Jan.31 Fox&Coyote-Oct.28-Feb.15 Mink-Nov.4-Dec.31 Muskrat-Nov.4-Feb.28 REMARKS: I think the raccoon season opens a tad early, the mink season could remain open until Jan.31. In leu of the fact that coyotes can be hunted year around, I would like to see the trapping season open year around, also. Our coyote furs have not been extremely valuable in recent times, and not many trappers would trap them excessively. ******************************************************************* Name: Steve Gappa
Minnesota has very liberal seasons: Coyotes, Red Fox, Coon and Striped Skunk- Continuous seasons. Grey Fox, Badger, Possum -Sept 16-March 15. Mink/Muskrats have a 4 month season and Beaver is over 6 months long. These days allow easy damage control, but are meaningless to fur trappers- Most trappers here start K-9's mid October and coon a week or two later. Our coon are pretty nice through February, our canines about the same. ******************************************************************* Name: dusty
im from ohio coon fox and possum come in nov. 10 mink and muskrat come in the 15, coyote is open all year, beaver is done by zones my zone comes in dec 26. coon and fox close jan 31 , mink and muskrat closes feb 28 i think this is a little to long but i dont make the rules. beaver go out the 28 too. ******************************************************************* Name: charlie
In New Jesery We Start Nov. 15 And End On March 15 some times its steel warm in nov. to begin trapping ******************************************************************* Name: Ky-GH
trapping season for everything comes in around the third week of November and runs until January in Kentucky. Beaver season is the only extended seasons for Kentucky and it runs until February 28. I can understand giving the deer hunters their 10 days to gun hunt before trappers take to the fields and streams for everyones safety, but i think the January cut off is kinda early. I would like to see the land trapping extended into February and the water trapping for muskrats and beaver extended to March. ******************************************************************* Name: Grinner
Our land season starts about the second week of october, In my opinion thats about 2 weeks too early, The coon start to look good around the 1st. week of November. Our rat and mink season usually starts around the week of thanksgiving which I feel is a right on target. ******************************************************************* Name: BeaverWeb
Texas- Nov 1 thru March 31 opens too early but march is ok for beaver/bobcat. ******************************************************************* Name: MARTIN
HERE IN N. ILLINOIS THE SEASON RUNS FROM NOV. 5 TILL JAN. 15 FOR COON, RATS, MINK, TILL JAN.20 FOR FOX. BEAVER RUNS TILL MARCH 31. I THINK THESE DATES ARE O.K. ******************************************************************* Name: Hal
Here in Ohio, land trapping (fox and coon) starts around the 10th of November. (There is no closed season on coyotes.) Water trapping (muskrat and mink) starts on November 15. Beaver starts December 26 (southern zone) and runs through the end of February, as does muskrat. Fox, coon, and mink close on January 31. I live in the southern part of the state, and these dates are slightly early for our fur. Also, I believe beaver season could be extended for a couple of weeks in the spring. But overall, I think the Ohio D.O.W. does and excellent job of managing our furbearer resources.

Beaver Traps. Beaver Trappers: What kind of trap do you use for beaver? What is your: first choice, second choice, third choice? Please comment.

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Name: bevr75
CDR 7.5, conibear, snare. I like to use foothold traps if possible. The CDR has good strength and a great pan system.
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Name: Robert
330's I haven't had the chance to use a drowner set as this is my 1st year. When I do next year I will try with #3 Bridger CS. If It's too small I will stick with the 330's
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Name: Dennis Hale
MB750, Bridger #5 coil, #330 & #280 coni's
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Name: Bob
I use coniber's as my first choose the 330. Second is 280. I never use anything smaller than the 280. Trapping in northern Maine mostly under ice. Plenty of early scouting and map drawing will get you in the runs.
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Name: TJ
I use mostly #3 coils because we are limited to a 6.5" jawspread in PA.
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Name: joe tannehill
I prefer to use a large foothold such as a #5 ls or cs on castor sets then move down to a #4 at slides or feed beds then i will use bodygrips and snares
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Name: Gary Bowers
My first choice is 330 conibear; second is CDR 7.5; third is Bridger #5 Longspring
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Name: dusty chambliss
for body grips a bmi 330, for a foothold a # 5 bridger d.longspring
and a #2 bridger coilspring 4 coiled
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Name: ed
330 conibears is my first choice and snares for the trap shy critters.
footholds are illegal in my neck of the woods. Really the kind of trap
you use depends on the set locations you have.
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Name: trapperbob
My first choice is a #5 long spring not because it is nessesarally better but being envolved in buckskinning which is why I got involved in trapping makes me kind of relive a moment in history. And my second choice would be a 330 connibear because of the efficiancy and quick killing capability. And third would be a snare. Have not used them much but the few I have worked very well.
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Name: Hal
The comment about fitting the trap to the location is quite appropriate, and that is how I decide which device I am going to use. But I do understand there are legal considerations in some areas. Personally, I favor the 330 when the situation warrants its use. It is quick, easy, and largely foolproof if it is properly stabilized. A foothold trap with a large jaw spread runs a very, very close second. I encounter many situations where a bodygrip is just not viable. I take a lot of beaver in foothold traps. Snares are a distant third as my choice for beaver, but in some situations they are the only practical choice. My main objection to snares is that they "mark" the pelt and can reduce its value, especially in non-lethal situations.

Selling Fur. All Trappers: Where do you sell your fur? (1) Local buyer. (2) Local trappers' auction. (3) Shipped to large auction. (4) Shipped to buyer. Please comment.

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Name: anonymous
I ship my fur to an auction house. I have heard many arguments for or against shipping fur and I think I still get a better average than the folks who sell to a semi local buyer. I do pay a small commission (9%) and I don't mind. I don't have to stand there and play the magic "shell game" with anyone who would be bold enough to insult my intelligence by offering '$35.00 for those two coon, $10.00 for those three and $.50 for every thing else.' I realize that not every critter I catch, skin, flesh and dry will come out as a super select or top lot, but then again I know that no wear near 3/4 of the fur I produce should be put in the $.50 pile either. The other thing I like about selling this way is I can ship my fur when ever I want to and don't have to worry about where to store all the fur that the guy down the road wouldn't buy. I was able to average over $13.00 for all of my coon last year (58 fresh and 12 cary-overs from 98), and $3.53 for my 147 muskrats including the commission charge. How many had that good of an average from a local buyer? Just my opinion and it seems to work very well for me.
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Name: n trout
local buyer
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Name: Randall Mouser W.Va
Usally to a local buyer, I have shiped to auction houses, but can do as good local with frozen furs. Less work more time to check traps.
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Name: anonymous
Local Trappers Auction and N.A.F.A
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Name: Bob
Most of my fur is sold to local buyer, this year I'am going to send 1/2 of my fur catch to a large auction. Some of my catch is sold to hunters and local people that wont to have a special animal mounted for there camp or home.
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Name: d holmes
LOCAL BUYER although I put up some of my own fur time does not always allow for me to do it all. sometimes it is just to get around and visit also the local buyer gives opportunity for that.
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Name: mick trapper
we ship all furs to auction houses no local buyers here in iowa wanting to give what fur is worth.
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Name: TJ
I sell to local buyers mostly because between college and work I don't have time to put up all my fur, so I can't ship to auctions.
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Name: bret
I am only 19 years old and in college now, so I usually end up selling my fur right on the carcass to a local buyer. This is mainly because I simply don't have time to put up my fur, as the only trapping time I get is on the weekends. But next year, I'm hoping on commuting to college so hopefully I'll be able to have a lot of fun putting up my own fur, because that's what I would really like to do.
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Name: black bandent
Local buyer
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Name: joe tannehill
I sell my furs at both a local buyer and local trappers auction.
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Name: allen swiger
state trapper's autions
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Name: Gary Bowers
I ship all furs to NAFA
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Name: micktrapper
shipped to nafa no local buyers around
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Name: Black Bandit
Local buyer
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Name: dusty chambliss
I sell at the local auction just past saturday i got a high of 14.25 for xxxl#1coon and 35.00 for red fox
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Name: jackie childress
we sell ours to local buyer that comes around twice a year but i think its a conspircy and i belive we could get a better price if we looked around. the otter went well for 70.00 but the rest of it was cheap
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Name: Jamie
Local buyer alot of times i keep them and nail them to a building behind my home.
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Name: ed
I have sold fur to the same local buyer since I caught my first muskrat at age four. It has already been 22 years now that I have been selling him my pelts. He knows me and has always treated me well. I also like to talk to the other trappers who come in to sell there fur.
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Name: trapperbob
I ship mine to a local fur buyer.
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Name: Hal
The pattern that is largely represented here is that folks who can't, or don't choose to put up their own fur avail themselves of a local buyer out of necessity. This is the primary function of local buyers today, and they provide a valuable service in this respect. Other trappers, myself included, have no local buyers at hand. Local trappers auctions provide another outlet for fur, but you either have to put up the fur, or store it in a deepfreeze until sale time. Personally, I put up all my fur and ship to one of the large Canadian auction houses.

Pan Tension. All Trappers: How much pan tension do you use on your traps? Please comment by species.

Name: Paul
I use full tension on my foot-hold traps. It seems to work fine.
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Name: Rick S
In my water sets for rats and mink I use zero tension on the pan other than the force applied from the jaw against the dog, when tuning thses traps the pan falls freely. For my land sets I use 2 1/2 pounds for my coon and fox traps, and four pounds for my coyote traps. I made tension gauges from thick walled PVC pipe filled with lead shot and caps on the ends. As a side note, I have taken some large coon in coyote sets, so four pounds of tension is not over kill for bigger coon in my opinion.
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Name: TrapperPaul
I use Victor 1 1/2 mostly and a few "off brand" traps for racoon and other middle sized animals. I like to use full to almost full tension on my traps. I have caught little animals like birds and red squriells using full tension. On my beaver and muskrat traps (#3 for beaver and 1 1/2 for muskrat), I use pretty light tension. I still have a few misses. I would suggest using fairly light tension. When the ice starts coming like it is in Minnesota right now,(11-20-00) I will set the tension a little tighter because of tha ice forming and blowing sheets of ice, and debris. Just remember to keep the pan tension changing throughout the seasons. Good luck trapping!
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Name: Swampmaster
I use about two pounds of pan tension on my land traps. These are the ones I use for red and grey fox, coyote, and bobcat. For coon and mink all I do is take out the side to side wobble and let the pan fall freely. On beaver traps I use just enough tension so that the pan will stay up.
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Name: TJ
Fox: approx. 1#
Coyote: 2-4#
Coon: approx. 2#
Water Sets: none (tight enough that the pan falls freely but with no wobble)
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Name: Anonomous
1lb (fox)
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Name: WWControl
Muskrat, Mink - loose pan with little wobble
Raccoon, Skunks, Opossum - 1 - 1 1/2 lbs
Fox - 1 1/2 - 2 lbs
Coyote - 2 1/2 lbs
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Name: dholmes
i may not do this 'right' but it works well for me. mink and muskrat none set trap to break clean with out creep. fox adjust tension until the trap is ready to fire and pan tension is all that is really holding it, i believe a the fox puts it foot down it should sense no movement until the pan collaspes and the jaws have him. also set 'haired' will fire if rain washes dirt under the pan or if ground freezes cause it takes little movement to se off trap. each trap must be adjusted individually.
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Name: william
pocket sets are set on a hair trigger because it works on mink and coon and mink weigh less than coons. otter can be cought the same way as coon and mink with no tension. land sets for coons I set it at a medium presureso debris and mice dont set it off. beaver sets have no tension either because rats are cought the same way. fox sets are a little tighter than coon so they dont set the trap off when scratching around and mice and squirels dont set it off. coyote is set a little tighter because they weigh more and the set is usually were there are more rodents and debris this took me a while to figure out i missed a lot of animals till i started tightening my pans
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Name: dusty
for fox and coyote about 2lbs for mink no tension for coon 1lbs
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Name: Hal
Well... I guess this subject was a little more advanced than I thought. While most of the respondents did supply valid answers, it appears a few folks don't quite understand what pan tension is, despite the fact that it was the "Rewind" feature for Nov.-Dec. 2000. Pan tension is not the distance the pan falls, and it is not the depth of the trigger in the notch. Pan tension is the force required to move the pan downward, usually measured in pounds.

My own preferences for this are: Land traps for fox and coon -- 1 to 2 lbs. Land traps for coyote -- 2 to 4 pounds. And as most have suggested here, I don't apply any extra tension to water traps set for coon, mink, and muskrat. On those beaver traps, I use about 4 pounds of tension. That's right, 4 pounds. This gets the beaver fully committed to the trap before it fires, and will reduce the incidence of fired, empty traps, and toe-holds on beaver.

Trapping Videos: How many if any trapping videos have you purchased? Are you satisfied with the quality of these videos? What is your biggest complaint about trapping videos?

Name: torix
I have purchased one (CANINES 2000).I am very satisfied, it answered
most of my questions. I have no complaints after watching it. I voted
for you for president!
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Name: Bryce Larson
I have bought about 8 trapping videos over the last 7 years. I am basically
satiffied with the content and the quality of the tape and the material.
Biggest compplaint about videos and written material, is that they spend a lot of
time on individual set construction or species, etc. and not as much about line management and how to keep organized. They are good at how to make a set, but do not
help a lot on helping you keep 48 canine sets working in Dec with 3 hours per day before work. That may not be the intention of the material either.
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Name: Rob Gesslein
I have purchased several trapping videos. Most are of low recording quality, but the information is generally decent. My biggest complaint is that they spend to much time on equipment and catches and not enough time showing proper set locations. We all know that proper location is one of the largest keys to success. Why doesn't someone just enter the woods or a field and point out what to look for in proper locations and then show why? Or better yet an interactive video would be good. I'm tired of seeing 3/4 of the video tied up with catches. All that shows is what a coyote/fox/coon looks like.
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Name: coontrapper
I have purchased ten vidoes. Most of the vidoes of good quality and fun to
watch. My biggest complaint is that they show trapping only in the best
situations. Not in tough working situations.
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Name: deereman
I have purchased four videos so far. The first two were the pros of water and pred. They are good videos for someone that has never trapped before or are just wanting to watch a movie. These videos were just too showy they had way too many critters and not enough education. After those two I purchased a Dobbins Beaver Video and Hal's Canine 2000 and I'll tell you what those are good videos. There is no messin around they get down to business They are very clear and in depth.
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Name: Ian Johnson
I am from Marion Wisconsin and This is my first year trapping fox.
The biggest complant is that the videos that I bought to learn more about trapping is that they dont show begginers on what to do.
Thanks
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Name: Chis
I have so far 4 of the FFG videos and I guess they are ok, could stand to have some more catches shown. The coyote video I have is a real poor quality video and I hope it is just the individual tape and not mass produced that way. I also have the "Extreme" fox and coyote video. It wasnt too bad, some parts were a bit boring, but a lot of catches shown. I was kinda turned off by the guy in the video discussing something about the "big guys" or something in regards to some of the more popular trappers. I haven't watched it but only once but it struck me as almost being a little whiny. I am waiting for Santa to bring me a couple of Hal's videos and the rest of the FFG ones. Overall, I enjoy the videos I have, but hope in the future they are better produced. Maybe a little off topic, but how come there are no trapping related shows on The Outdoor Channel ? Call me if you want to produce one and are hiring a host or something LOL
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Name: DAVID R OWENS
NOT VERY DETAILED ON SETS AND LOCATIONS TO MUCH FOCUS ON THE BASICS AND NOT ON THE SECRETS THAT EVERY PRO TRAPPER HAS EVEN THE NOVICE
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Name: WWControl
1) 43
2) overall yes, some videos are much better quality than others.
3) Videos for the most part are not broken up by level of experience such as novice, beginner, intermediate, advanced, professional. For instance the Fur-Fish-Game videos all contain information on how to clean, dye, and wax traps along with how to set a snare. That seems wasted time when they could have made one video specifically on types of traps and trap maintenance or a video on snaring. Hal has the only video I have ever seen that specifically states if you have not seen this other video first (Beaver 2000) then stop watching this one (Beaver Control Trapping) and watch the other one instead. I also feel that most of the videos give the feeling that this is how it is done no matter where you live which can lead to serious issues. I would be intested in videos created on a state by state basis. With legal sets for that state along with what species you can pursue for that state. May be this is something the DNR's can get involved in to keep costs under control.
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Name: dusty
2 yes i was satisfied with them . needed to show more on location and more catches.
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Name: Hal
First, thanks for the kind comments that were made about my videos. Of course, being in the video business myself, my opinions are not totally unbiased. But before I ever made any of my own videos, one of my own complaints was that they spent too much time showing critters dancing around in traps. That may be entertaining, but it offers little educational value. My own philosophy has been to fill the video with educational material that will enable the viewer to catch their own critters. Then they can watch their own critters dance around in the trap. I'm also in agreement with those who found that some of the videos which were very high in technical quality were lacking in substantive information. On the other side of the coin, there are some videos out there that are little better than home movies.

There is one complaint I have noticed here that I would like to address, and that involves location. Location is one of the most extremely difficult things to show on a video. Try this little experiment. Form your hands into a circle, like a camera lens, and look through the hole. Now turn your head and scan the landscape. That's how the camera sees it. It is nearly impossible to maintain your orientation with the camera as different features of the landscape come into and go out of view. A person can stand in one spot and turn their head or just shift their eyes to get the "big picture" a camera can't do that. It would be just about the same as walking into an area, putting a pair of binoculars to your eyes, then trying to figure out location without ever taking the binoculars down.

Selling Fur. All Trappers: How do you sell your fur? (1) On the carcass (2) Skinned and frozen. (3) Skinned fleshed and frozen. (4) Fleshed, stretched, and dried. Please comment.
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Name: jasonm
I flesh, stretch, and dri all my fur.
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Name: jfr83
I sell my fur fleshed, stretched, and dried. I take pride in putting
up fur and the quality of it. Its fun handling fur and doing all the
necessary operations to get top price.
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Name: TJ
Fleshed, stretched and dried most of the time. Sometimes, I just sell them green to a local buyer.
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Name: redfox12172
I flesh, stretch, and dry my fur. I then normally ship it to one of the international auctions.
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Name: trowe
With the exception of beaver, which I sell "in the round"(on the carcass) because of the cost of heating a building to do the skinning, I sell everything Fleshed/stretched and dried.
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Name: Joe House
Sell my fur in the carcass. Would love to properly skin and dress but I teach and my trapline is checked at 3-7 a.m in the morning and night time is paper grading, school activities, and sleep for next day. I do dry, brush and comb all fur and have received close to what others do for their skinned (but not fleshed, dryed) furs.
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Name: delbert
i put up all my fur. one's you learn the tricks, it's eazy to put up fur. i bought hal's video on putting up fur and talked to many fur buyers. now i have fur buyers asking me to put up fur for them. it's a great feeling, when someone pulls your fur out of a pile, because of the way it's putup. i run up to 150 traps. if i have the time you should have the time.
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Name: Rick S
I skin, flesh, dry and sell my furs fresh as soon as they are dry. No matter who you sell to (local buyer or an auction house) you will realize a better profit for a well handled put up fur. While on the subject, I use boards for all of my fur even my rats. There is a huge difference between putting fur on a board as opposed to a wire. Boarding fur gives it a more full look in my opinion, and with the market for the past couple of years every little thing helps! If you need board patterns or put up tips check out Hal's book FUR HANDLING 2000.
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Name: aaron mahieu
I'v allways sold them skinned and frozen but because of the low prices I say flesh and stretch to get the exta couple bucks.
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Name: Madjack
I sell to canadian auctions, fleshed and dried and i also sell at state auctions, both dried and green, canada seems to pay higher prices on short haired fur(beaver, otter, mink) but state auctions pay more for long haired fur (bobcat, fox, and our worthless southern coon). It pays to shop around, send a little fur here and there till you figure out where you can get top dollar for each fur.
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Name: danalin38
We sell fleshed, stretched, and dried because seeing the fur "finished" is where we stand back and apreciate the hard work, the opportunity we have to trap and enjoy the outdoors, and also pay honor to the beautiful creatures that produce the fur. It is not about money. I see the fur work as a skill and something else we can learn more about each year. The fur does seem to bring more put up but the auctions are pretty "interesting" sometimes!
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Name: trapper62
I sell all of my fur to NAFA, I have sold locally, but there is only one buyer within 90 miles of me and I feel that he takes advantage of the trappers because of this! Our NDFT does not have a fur auction to sell to so I go where I can get the most from what I catch!
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Name: cold foot
fleash streached and dried.
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Name: Rhode Dog
When I first started trapping I sold everything skinned and frozen. However, after attending a state convention and seeing the proper way to flesh and stretch I started selling that way. I also got some tips from the furbuyer, Mackinaw Fur. I always hear guys complaining about low prices but they always sell on the carcass. It does pay to finish your furs and with these lower prices I'll take all any extra I can get.
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Name: Chuck Sharrow
This was my first year trapping so it was easier for me to sell some of my fur on the carcass. Primarily because the taxidermist was paying about what I would have recieved for a dried fur. Though he only bought the coyotes, fisher and marten. I was able to get some skinning experience in skinning the muskrat and mink I caught that he wouldn't buy. When I am able to build a fur shed I think I will dry all my fur because seeing the finished product is what it is all about.
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Name: Coon Trapper
I sell all my fur, except muskrats, skinned and frozen. Muskrats
are fleshed, stretched, and dried.
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Name: Hal
I'm actually surprised by the response here. I thought there would be more people who sell on the carcass, or just skinned. I suppose that a lack of local fur buyers, due to the depressed fur market, may explain some of this. I too flesh, stretch and dry all of my fur. I enjoy handling the animals and seeing the finished product.

Sets for Mink. Mink Trappers: Do you use primarily baited sets or blind sets for mink -- or both? What percentage of your mink are taken by each type of set?
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Name: jasonm
I use mainly pocket sets. every once in a while I'll use a blind set, but not very often. I probably catch 85% to 90% of my mink in pocket sets.
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Name: jfr83
I use baited pockets about 75% of the time with some blind sets here
and there. 2/3 of my mink are taken in baited pockets. The other 1/3
are taken in elbows, bridge and culvert set ups, and tunnels.
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Name: TJ
I use both. At least 80% of my mink catch is taken in blind sets.
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Name: trowe
Blind sets, 110 connibears. I do this because in Maine we have a 3 day check on connibears, and this allows me to run a much larger line.

Warning: you must leave your footholds at home, or you'll turn your 3 day check into a 24 hour check real quick, and there is always those places that scream for a foothold!
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Name: Ric
I will have out more baited sets than blind.Two reasons its eaiser to put in a pocket or find a natural cubby & the baited sets help intercept the coon keeping them out of the blind sets
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Name: trapper62
I don't catch a lot of mink but mine are all caught in blind sets. This will be the first season that I am going to incorporate pocket sets. Also catch a few in the houses while trapping muskrats.
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Name: alex
dont know still learning
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Name: cold foot
90% of the mink i catch are in baited pocket sets. the other 10% are trail sets.
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Name: Hal
I haven't trapped mink hard in the last few years because of the depressed prices. I'm probably catching 80% or more in blind sets for two reasons. First, because a blind set requires no construction, I make them when the opportunity presents itself. Also, blind sets help to avoid coon. If the price on either one of these animals advances, I'm sure to start using more baited pockets.

Wax and/or Dip: What method do you prefer for protecting your traps and why?

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Name: Matthew
I have only been trapping for five years the only way I have done it is with dip and have had great results. I was afraid at first the gas used to mix with the dip would leave an odor but after a few days the odor left. I like the smooth slick finsh the dip leaves on the traps and I believe this speeds up the trap when set off. Also I like that it is so easy and fast to use just boil your traps and put the dip in a 5 gal bucket mix with gas dip the traps and hang to dry.
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Name: Rick S
I like to boil, dye, and wax all of my land traps for improved speed, reducing foriegn odor at the set area, and to help prevent freeze down. I have used cold dips on my water traps (petrolium based) and it worked fine. For the past couple of years I have also started to dye and wax my water traps too and have been happy with the increased firing speed. I do not wax any body grip traps larger than 160 (6 X 6) because of the safety hazard.
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Name: Greenhorn
I use both. I dip all my water traps and have tried using dip on some of my land traps but have had mixed results. I really like the ease of using dip over boiling traps in dye and then waxing. I am going try the new Formula One trap dip that mixes with water this year on my land traps. It sounds like it should take care of the problem with residual odors of the gas/colman fuel that can stay on the traps after using conventional dips. Only time will tell.
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Name: RdFx
I'm of the old persuasion with boiling my traps with either log bark or sumac berries and waxing. Been using it for 45 yrs hasn't let me down yet. I'm experimenting with a water base dip now and have traps out in field to see if yotes or fox can smell them. If water base works will try. Always open to new ideas.
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Name: bob maier
I use dips, use only paint thinner, NO GAS OR coleman fuel, there are no additives, coleman fuel came out with a different formula and has additives. dips are easy and leave no odor if traps are done early in the year. i do mine in the spring.
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Name: handintrap
ive used speed dips, but had no luck with it. ive used black walnut to dye my traps than waxed them. this year i am tryin sumac.
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Name: drifter
Have not used dip was taught to wax and use soft mapel bark as descent and dye
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Name: TrapperTexas
I am new so I am going to dip just for the ease of doing it.
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Name: Pat
Dye and Wax. Dips stink no matter how long they get aired out, and many an adult Coyote and Fox will avoid them. If your talking about a trap that will be under water as in Beaver or 'Rat trapping, the dips might be okay, but for land work, I'll stick to dyeing and waxing.
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Name: Gary
I really like speed dip and can tell no difference in my catches and I have been trapping for 40 years!!! *******************************************************************
Name: TJ
I prefer to dye my land traps with logwood crystals, walnut hulls, or sumac and then wax them. For water traps, I just speed dip them.
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Name: Ryan
Well i think it all depends on what animal u are trapping like really like to wax and dip all of my coyote and fox traps. And for the rest of my traps i just dip them
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Name: Hal
I use both. My personal preference is to wax traps. Maybe its just because I'm old-fashioned, but I also like the way the traps will boil off clean, right down to the metal, at the end of the season. I wax all my smaller traps, and all my land traps. All my larger traps, particularly the beaver traps, get dipped as do my bodygrips.

Coyote Traps. Coyote Trappers: What size traps do you use for coyotes? Do you prefer 4-coil traps or 2-coil traps? What would you consider to be the minimum size trap for reliably taking coyotes?

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Name: deereman
i've used just about everything foot hold wise for yotes here in illinois. I really like the sterlings but because of cost i have settled on modified #3 Bridgers. i four-coil mine plus offset jaws and laminated with 18" to 4' of chain. I've taken them with #1.65 and #1.75 with much success. all depends on trap placement.
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Name: Matthew
Normaly I use a #2 Bridger coil spring but if I know bobcats are in the area I use a #3 Bridger because of the larger jaw spread. I prefer 4-coiled traps I feel they are more balance and come straight up out of the trap bed. The minimum size trap I would use for coyotes would be a 1 3/4 4-coiled.
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Name: Greenhorn
I use mostly 1 3/4 northwoods, offset, 2-coiled with #2 music wire springs. I use about 16 inches of chain with 3 swivels and all are rigged for double staking. If I was only targeting coyotes I would go with #3 Bridgers, offset and 4-coiled.
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Name: RdFx
Northwoods 2 and 3 with offset jaws. Montgomery 2-3s with offset jaws. All traps laminated and base plated with ctr swiveled with shock spring and minimum of three total swivels. I have four coil traps to help come thru dirt with the extra jaw width with laminations. Nbr 2 minimum size for reliably taking yotes.
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Name: lance w laudig
here in new york we are restricted to a jaw spread of 5.75 inch on land sets. ive tried various traps and models both stock and mods and my choice has become the 1.75 offset sleepy creek double coil. other than adjustments and replaceing the twin loop chain with #3 machiene chain with 3 swivels and a double stake butterfly i use these traps stock. i dont think theres a better 1.75 trap on the market and with its abillity.
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Name: Ric
I have been using a basicly stock 13/4 S.C. offset since they came out. Results have been very good. Fine tune, add another swivel and you are good to go,#3's would be nice if I only had coyote to deal with and the regulations allowed, but I see this trap as a very workable compramise.
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Name: bob maier
3# bridger coils, laminated, baseplated,4 coiled. minimum trap would be a #2, same modifications as the #3.
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Name: TurTLe
I use mainly Northwoods 1.75 O.S., Baseplated with D-ring, laminated, 3 chain swivels and JC Connors In Line Shock Spring. I also use #2 Northwoods set up the same way. I like the 1.75's because they are a gentler on the little gray fox. Not to mention they will also hold cats and the occasional coon that checks out the set. Pound for Pound I put my money on these traps.
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Name: TrapperJoe
I use number #2 Coilspring for coyotes. I'd say the minimun size trap i use is a #1-1/2 coilspring.
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Name: keith
i use #1.75 in early part of the season. if and when we get snow i use up to #3s, all my traps have 2 coils. the reason i use 1.75 traps is in case of a fox.
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Name: drifter
I am not a proffesional by any means , but I have good results with 1 3/4 coils as long as they are strong . These are two coils with 12 in. chain shock springs and double staked.
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Name: Jackie Malone
I am fond of the #2coil, either n.w. or bridger. These are only 2-coiled with a J.C. Conners shock spring attached. All smaller traps are 4-coiled. The 1.75 coil is the smallest trap I use for coyote, they also have shock springs, laminated and baseplated along with 4-coils. I have 18 inches of chain, swivles and shock spring from base of trap to stakes. Anything less and you'll get pumped stakes from coyotes.
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Name: UtahTrapper
I use a lot of Bridger #3 coilsprings that are modified (baseplate, 4-coiled, offset jaws, laminated jaws). I prefer the 4-coiled traps. I won't go any lower than a #2 coilspring for coyotes, I've taken them in #1.75's but wouldn't say you can do it reliably because of the small jawspread.
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Name: Pat
I consider the #3, 4 coiled, 1/4 inch off-set(no factory off-sets), with lamination strips, center bottom swivel utilizing a D-ring with a Sterling swivel attached to it, followed by 9 inches of #2 machine chain, then another Sterling swivel, then 9 more inches of #2 machine chain, then another Sterling swivel, followed by a heavy duty stake swivel (for staking), or 8 foot of #2 machine chain attached to a Corn Husker drag. This would be minimum for standard Coyote work. It seems like overkill, but this set-up won't hurt your Foxes feet either. Extremely creature comfortable. The inserting of a good in-line shock spring wouldn't hurt either. I've used #3 coils for Fox and Coyote work since 1983, and I love 'em. Extremely kind to dryland 'Coon due to off-set and lamination. Gets a good high hold, and they don't chew their feet due to the off-set jaws and lamination allowing good blood flow and complete feeling in their feet. With a minimum of 18 inches of chain and 3 good swivels incorporated into it, the 'Coon is free to roam around and tear up everything in its' reach instead of concentrating on its' feet. Their not as stressed on a long chain as they are on a short chain. If I were doing exclusively Coyote and 'Cat work, behind locked gates, I'd probably go with the Sterling MJ600 (the Cadillac of Coyote traps). If the majority of my trapping was for Red Fox, with a rare Coyote tossed in, I'd still use the #3 as rigged out above, but I'd only use two coils until winter set in then go to four coils.
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Name: jacob
i would use a #2-#3
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Name: Trapper62
I am by far not an expert coyote trapper, but what I have learned I
learned from an old-timer in our area and his coyote traps where handed
down to me. They are #3 Montgomery dogless with about 30 inches of
chain and 3 swivels. I feel that they are the best coyote trap around
even though others will argue the long chain idea!
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Name: daniel
i prefer the number 2 coil. the minimum size trap for coyotes should be 1.75.
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Name: Mark Evans
I prefer four coil traps in conjunction with offset jaws. The four coil seems to come up out of the trap bed aggressively and the offset along with the four coil holds the paw of the animal secure. I also prefer smaller jaw spread traps which means smaller trap bed and less work especially in below freezing conditions. Two of the traps I use are the Victor #1.75 4 coil offset professional and the BMI #2 K-9 Wolfer. The only problem I have with the Victor #1.75 are the tendency for the jaws to become uneven when they are closed after use on the trapline. I like the dog feature on the K-9 wolfer allowing the pan to click into place reducing pan wobble. These traps have always produced for me on my coyote line.
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Name: Cody Cramer
I Would Use 4-Coil traps.
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Name: TJ
I use #2 coilsprings early in the season and #3 coilsprings later in the season. I like my coyote traps 4-coiled, base plated, center swiveled, laminated and/or offset, and double staked with short chains and shock springs. I think #1.75 coilsprings are the smallest traps that should be used for coyotes.
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Name: Landon
I trap with dad and we use #2. Minnimum would probably be 1-1/2.
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Name: Ryan
When trapping coyotes i like to use a 4 coil trap. The reason i prefere a 4 coil trap is because of the holding power. I have expermented with 2 coil traps but have had many pull out and there is nothing worse then finding a sprung trap with some coyote hair in between the jaws. My faviort trapp is the BMI K-9 Wolfer. It seems to be the best trap for the money. But if u want to spend some money the Jake trapp is one hell of a trap. The smallest trap that i use on my trapline for coyote is a number 2 4-coiled. The reason for this is because the jaw spread is the smallest that i like to use. Some people prefer a 1 1/2 but like i said i think that is to small for a coyote.
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Name: Hal
The minimum size trap for coyote, in my opinion, would be a #1-3/4. I've caught quite a few in 2-coiled traps, but for serious work, 4 coiling would be better. Increased pan tension, 2 to 4 pounds, on these traps (or larger traps for that matter) will help ensure a better across-the-pad catch and help eliminate toe-holds. Here in Ohio, my choice for coyotes is a #2 offset, 4 coiled. In other areas, where it is legal, a #3 could show improved results. All my canine traps are short chained and I use either a cross-stake system or a cable stake earth anchor to fasten them.

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