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Topics:

Cleaning Traps. All trappers: What method do you use for cleaning your traps at the end of the season? If you boil them, how big of a container do you use and how do you heat it? Review This Topic

Storing Traps. All trappers: How do you store your traps during the off season? Review This Topic

Human Scent. Experienced Trappers: What part do you think the presence of "human scent" at a set plays in the success or failure of your sets? Review This Topic

Bedding Land Traps. Land Trappers: Explain your procedure for solidly bedding a trap at a set. Review This Topic

Biggest Mistakes: Experienced Trappers: What are some of the biggest mistakes you think you made on your early traplines? Review This Topic

What Age? All Trappers: At what age did you start trapping? Who got you started? Review This Topic

Modifications on Canine Traps. Canine Trappers: What kind of modifications do you use on your traps, or how do your traps differ from common traps (offset, four-coiled, etc.)? Review This Topic

Coon Sets. Coon Trappers: What set do you find most effective on raccoons? Please describe. Review This Topic

Wet/freezing Canine Sets. Canine Trappers: How do you maintain your sets for wet and/or freezing weather. Review This Topic

Trapline Transportation. All Trappers: What means of transportation do you use to cover your trapline? Review This Topic

Muskrat Lure. Muskrat Trappers: What part does lure and/or bait play in your muskrat trapping? Review This Topic

Coon Traps. Coon Trappers: What traps do you use for coons? Review This Topic

Replies:

Cleaning Traps. All trappers: What method do you use for cleaning your traps at the end of the season? If you boil them, how big of a container do you use and how do you heat it?

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Name: Dan Albright
First, I wash them all off by hand to get all hair, mud, etc off. Then in late spring/early summer I speed dip all of them. I use a 5 gallon bucket full of Andy Stoes 3 parts gas to one part dip. Finally, right before season, I boil all of them in large metal drum. That isnt necessarily needed but i like to do it just to make sure they are totally free from forien oder. This gives a trapper (well, at least me) more confidence come season.
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Name: James Crowell
I boil all my traps in a 55 gallon drum which is cut in half (guess that would make it a 27 & 1/2 gallon drum :) ). I bought a propane double burner cooker from Cabela's that I use to heat it with. The barrel covers both burners (barely) so it doesn't take too long to get it boiling.

I live in a subdivision so propane works better for me than wood. Besides, in Western Kansas, about the only trees We have here are the telephone poles. Somehow, I don't think the neighbors would appreciate me cutting down their "trees".
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Name: Glenn
At the end of the season I remove all flotsam and jetsam from between the jaws and also make sure no remaining bits of wire are left on the chains. I then load them all in the back of my pickup and drive over to the coin operated car wash. I drive the truck trough and pull the tangled mass off. I seperate them as best I can and blast them with the high powered rinse wash. I don't bother with the soap or wax settings. I seldom bother to dye traps, but when I do I use a 20 gallon copper wash boiler that I heat with a Coleman propane stove.
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Name: Ethan Welscher
I take them and wash then with latex gloves.(clean)and wash then to get all dirt and grasses off and then hang outside to dry for 1 1/2 hours..
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Name: Steve Freeman
I boil my foot holds in a couple of 55 gallon drums that I cut in half. They are boiled in lye and I found that the propane burners used under turkey fryers work extremely well and heat the water to a rolling boil in no time.
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Name: AR mountainman
I boil traps in a cut down metal barrel. The barrel is about half of a 55 gallon drum. I heat the water over a wood fire. Once the water gets heated, it doesn't take much fire to keep the water hot.
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Name: TrappahC
I like to boil my traps in just water, that takes care of any scents getting on them. (2) It all depends on how many traps you have, I would buy a big container that way you would be safe when you wanted to buy more traps to increase your trapline. *******************************************************************
Name: Mike Stewart
I take mine to the car wash. The pressure from the hose takes all of the mud and grime off.
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Name: mark
I boil mine twice. I cut a 55 gallon drum in half and set the halves on cinder blocks. First boil removes wax and some dye. Second boil cleans. Heat with oak.
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Name: Bill Clevenger
I prefer to use sani-flush to clean all the old wax and dye off. I use a five gallon bucket with hot water. It is important to wash all the dirt and other debris off first. Be sure to rinse thoroughly after taking them out of the solution.
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Name: mrfox
I borrowed the idea of using Sani'Flush in boiling water to clean my traps last year from Tom Miranda's book. It did a great job of removing rust, dirt, grime, etc. Just be careful not to breath the fumes. I used a 5 gallon metal bucket. I used an wood fire to heat the water.
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Name: Eric Eddy
I wash my traps off with a garden hose. They are not usually that dirty. I then boil them in a galvinized wash tub. I heat it with my propane burner that I use to deep fry Turkey, fish, ect. The burner works great because it has an adjustable flame and the tub sets securely on top. Also the heat is instant. (I don't want to sound lazy, a wood fire and a cold chill in the air would get the excitment level up there, you know what I mean) There is nothing like the smell of wood smoke on a cool fall morning, here in N.Y., that is.
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Name: Robert Juidici
I wire brush them, hose them at the car wash, then boil in saniflush and water in a 5 gallon metal bucket until I feel the wax etc. is off. I then I add water to float the old wax and other crap out of the bucket so I don't pull the clean traps through it. I use the family grill side burner for heat. (propane)
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Name: Chris Sherwood
Maybe I am a bit lazy, but I scrub them off with a wire brush and get the majority of soil and stuff off them and do the rest when its a little warmer later in the year. Sure, they aren't spotless and ready to go, but they are clean enough to avoid rust until he time comes for me to get the ready in late summer early fall.
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Name: Hal
As I bring the traps off the line, I hose them off or rinse them in a creek or pond to remove the worst of the mud and crud. To actually clean the traps, I use the old fashioned boiling method. My boilers are made from half a 55-gallon drum which I heat with a wood fire. I use two barrels. In the first I add a cup or two of automatic dishwasher soap to remove the mud and crud. I use clean water in the second barrel. After the traps have boiled in the first barrel, I lift them out and deposit them in the second barrel to rinse them. This way, I don't have to keep changing the water.

I saw a number of folks mention they use Saniflush, which is very similar to lye, to clean their traps. That's okay, but please be aware that these products present a significant hazard. They are very corrosive and can cause severe chemical burns. Always add these products to COLD water then heat it up. DO NOT add it to hot water as you may get a violent eruption. I strongly recommend you wear eye protection when using Saniflush, lye, or any similar cleaning agent.

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Storing Traps. All trappers: How do you store your traps during the off season?

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Name: James Crowell
I store my traps in 55 gallon drums. I have one for my conibears which are dipped & painted. Then I have another one for my clean footholds (dyed & waxed). I have a third one for my stakes, ect.
All three are sealed with gaskets, lids & bands. That way, they stay odor free. I have not had any problems with them getting contaminated over the summer. I don't put conibears (dipped & painted) in with my footholds because of the smells from the paint.
I don't put my traps up for the year until I have completely cleaned, dyed & waxed them. I know, I know, "Ya do that stuff in da fall". Well, I never claimed to be normal. Besides, there was always something comming up when I was trying to get ready for season that kept me from getting them done. I was always rushing until the last second to get everything ready. Now, I don't have to worry about my traps. I don't have to rush to get them cleaned either. If it takes me until April or May (it happens...), NO PROBLEM. As I mentioned above, I haven't had any contamination problems doing it this way so I'm happy with it.
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Name: Glenn
I store mine in large, but not too large, Rubbermaid storage containers. I like a size that allows me to store about 2 dozen traps in each. I don't want to put too many traps in a container because I have to lift the darn things and I'm not as young or strong as I once was. These containers I'm using stack very neatly one atop the other. I usually stack them 4 high before beginning a new pile. I ought to add here that I sort of pack the traps, kind of like they do when they come from the factory. Saves room.
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Name: Ethan Welscher
Hang them in a shed and don't touch them until trapping season!!
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Name: Steve Freeman
The totes that you can buy at department stores that have the snap on lid is what I store my traps in. The footholds are stored with evergreen or fur broughs over the top of them. This gives off a natural and pleasant odor and if the traps encounter any foreign odors during storage, this will help mask any scent they absorb. Conibears are stored in seperate containers than the footholds because they are speed dipped. Nothing is added to these totes because they are primarily used for Martin/Fisher/Weasels and these animals are not as scent sensitive per say as canines.
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Name: AR mountainman
Once my traps are cleaned, and I re-dip the ones that need it, I let them hang under the shed for a while, then store the traps in wooden boxes that I use to transport the traps on the line. Next season, as the traps get dirty, I store them in buckets til I can boil and clean them again.
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Name: mark
After cleaning I hang mine in fur shed.
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Name: trappnman
The most important thing to making your traps last and perform, is to put them away clean at the end of the season. I either take traps to the car wash or wash them at home- to get off all the crud, mud, etc. After they are cleaned I remove any pieces of wire or remaining debris, and then let the traps sit out until dry. I then pack them in cardboard boxes, and store them until I am ready to dip traps later in the year. After dipping I store them in new cardboard boxes until out on the line. I have an unlimited source of good cardboard boxes, so I use them a lot for equipment management on the line.
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Name: Ric
After treatment traps are stored in wooden boxes that also serve as containers in the back of my truck when trapping
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Name: Trapper62
After my traps are cleaned and prepared for the upcoming season, I hand them on the rafters in the loft of a large shed. It is extremely warm up there all summer and I also know that they are not disturbed by anyone or anything.
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Name: Eric Eddy
I hang mine by the ends of the chains in my shed.
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Name: Chris Sherwood
I used to store them hanging up on the wall of my fur shed, however I have gone to putting them in milk crates sorted and mostly cleaned for the next season. Traps look good hanging on walls, but I have windows on the shed and like to keep all tools, traps and such as low profile as possible to avoid someone breaking in.
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Name: Hal
I have number of ways to store traps. The small traps that I use most often are hung from the rafters of my trap shed, bundled in groups of six. I also have some good size wood boxes with hinged lids (military surplus) that are used to store small traps that don't necessarily see use every season. My larger foothold traps are stored in open top wood boxes. My intermediate size bodygrips are store in similar wood boxes. I store my #330's in milk crates because they fit so well.

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Human Scent. Experienced Trappers: What part do you think the presence of "human scent" at a set plays in the success or failure of your sets?

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Name: Jack Turner Jr.
I try to keep human scent to a minimum at my canine sets. However, human scent cannot be completely eliminated no matter how hard we try. I don't worry at all about human scent with other animals. There have been times when I felt that I left way too much human scent at a coyote set and ended up making a catch. Overall though, I feel that the less scent I leave, the better. I want the animal focused on baits and lures, not human scent or contaminated traps.
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Name: TrappinDad
I think a lot of it deals with amount of humans in the area. I trap in two very different locations during our season. At one location the land has been developed and is a suburban setting. These animals are not afraid of the extra scent and really give little thought. The second location is just the opposite. I feel that it is not so much the amount of your scent left behind as it is the surrounding. If a high population of humans exist, then the animals get less worried. This doesn't mean that I can forget about clean traps or other items like that. I can just get away with staying at set a little longer or scouting the area without effecting the animals.
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Name: Ethan Welscher
I think it will scare all trapshy fox, mink, or coon. But it can sometimes be good because you might have urine, bait, or lure on you
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Name: Jim Severing
At the start of the season I don't concern myself with leaving too much scent, I prefer to take my time until I get back in the swing of properly bedding my traps, ect. in a timly fashion, later in the season as time goes on I believe Human scent can become a factor to some canines, caused by the association of human scent and other combined common factors an animal may of had a bad experence with in their travels. Find the ones that are truly wised up really arnt going to make or break you, but will make you a better trapper, if you take the time to figure out how to confuse them into working a set.
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Name: Keith Daniels
In this part of the country I feel it plays very little importance. Human scent is encountered continually, and it doesn't raise a great suspicion, just don't spend an extreme amount of time at the set, learn to make them quickly, and scent will just be in the general area, like it is anyway since you've spent some time in that spot. With it being generalized, it might make some animals a little nervous until it fades in short time, but it is important not to get an odd scent of any sort on the trap, drawing direct attention to it.
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Name: Damien Farr
It depends on what you are trapping. Most animals, during trapping season, smell human scent on a regular basis due to hunters and other out doors man. If they spooked every time they smelled human scent they would run all day. The freshness of the scent matters also. If the human scent is fresh then the animal is more likly to spook. If the scent is old then I beleve that it is ignored.
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Name: D. Beaton
In my opinion the presence of human scent 'at' a set location is not detrimental. Lets face it, just being there will leave some scent and furbearers living close to settled areas no doubt at some point or another begin to associate the smell of humans with food. In any event, scent left on the ground or surrounding brush that may cause a potential catch to by-pass your set location will be gone after a few days or a rain. However, human scent on your trap or snare at that location can be like a red flag, will cause the target animal to notice it and no doubt give it an education and make it harder to bag the next time it visits one of your sets. Rule of thumb I follow, keep everything as clean as possible, keep your bare hands and breath off your gear, and catch more fur.
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Name: coonanfox
I think human scent has a minimal effect on many sets, even canine sets. I believe water sets are not effected at all. At canine sets though, I believe human scent when kept to a minimum is a natural smell to the animals in this part of the country (Upstate New York). Our trapping season for canines begins during Archery season and runs well after our Firearms season has ended. These canines smell human odors daily and I have had good success when keeping my scent to a minimum. I am not anal about scent control on my equipment and clothing but I do take precautions. I have caught foxes in places that get a lot of human activity. I have also caught them in "dirty" body-grippers set for coon. You be the judge.
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Name: trappnman
Now you have really opened up a can of worms! I believe that while clean trapping is of course important, I don't think it is the overwhelming #1 reason for either success or failure. I do believe it is important to have your traps odor free, or at least to have them smell "neutral". That is, even though a yote might smell them, he is not interested in them. So back to human scent. Reasonable practices of using gloves, kneeling clothes etc are more than adequate - except perhaps in true wilderness settings - there human scent might be more of a factor. But for the other 99% of us- natural looking sets are much more important than leaving a bit of human scent. After all, most human scent will dissapate in a relatively short time, maybe even in a few hours. So the "secret" is reasonablly clean sets made in the shortest amount of time, that are natural looking.
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Name: chris winters
Well when trapping coon i don't think it really matters. But fox or coyote were good clean gloves at all times and watch were you put your knees down at.
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Name: quintin
i think it is important for some sets for animals with a keen sense of smell but others that dont have as keen of sense of smell or dont pay atttentoin to it u dont have to worry about the descenting process or all the rubber boots and gloves
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Name: AR mountainman
I try to avoid any human scent at my land sets. I know there will be some scent left in some way, so I try to nat leave any. That way it will be minimal. Any scent left should be gone within several hours, but I try to eliminate all contamination. I go so far as to wear rubber boots and rubber gloves unless conditions are very dry. I feel like very dry air and dirt won't hold my scent long, so I use clean cotton gloves and leather boots.

I think human scent can be detrimental to your success on cats, fox, and yotes.
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Name: trappnman
This is the can of worms to end all cans of worms!! I believe the theroy expressed by Craig O'Gorman and others - that while it is important to keeps lure/bait odors off of traps, human scent isn't as big a concern as some might make it out to be. I think that a coyote has no trouble telling fresh scent (Humans here - red alert!) from stale scent "all clear". I believe that your mere presence at the set leaves an appreciable amount of scent. Going to extreme measures does nothing to change this. A natural looking set with good visuals, combined with location and trap bedding, guideing is much more important than success.
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Name: Brian
I don't think it makes any difference at water sets or for most any animal besides the canines. For canines I use two seperate sets of equipment. One for new sets and one for remakes. Clean equipment makes all the difference. Use a set cloth and set quickly. I make most canine sets in about 5 minutes or less and get out.
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Name: Jack Turner Jr.
I could write a whole article on this topic as some have. But in a nutshell, I think the less human scent that is present, the better your chances for success. It is one less thing that an animal has to focus on when working the set.
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Name: WackyQuacker
It seems to me that you need to consider "human" scent in a number of contexts:1)Is your set in a location were humans frequent? if so human scent is normal and probably less important. 2)Is the set in a "remote location were man travels less often? If so "human" scent wether you mean body oders or smells associated with man are foreign and much more important. 3) Are you trapping animals that have had bad experiences with man, "human scent", directly? Clearly, both scents, sounds and signs associated with danger are important in that they alert the critter of impending danger.
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Name: Hal
This didn't turn out to be as contentious as I thought it would. It seems that most trappers, at least most that responded here, have a fairly enlightened view of human scent.

I contend that it is impossible not to leave human scent at a set. Scent comes off your body in many ways, most of which are airborne. All the rubber gloves and rubber boots in the world won't stop it. I believe the human scent "bugaboo" that plagues some trappers does not give due credit to the animal's nose, stemming from our own human inadequacies and our horribly underdeveloped sense of smell. I don't believe a human will ever be able to appreciate what most wild animals can do with their nose.

I am convinced that animals can not only identify what made an odor, but also when that odor was made. A fresh odor that indicates a human is present will send most animal scurrying. But let that odor age and hour or two and the animal is no longer threatened, because it can tell the human is gone.

I will concede that the matter of human scent may be more critical in wilderness settings than it is where more humans live. But I also think that where humans travel the landscape on a regular basis, human scent becomes nearly a non-factor in trapping. The critters are used to it.

With that said, I don't think you should leave any overt odors at a set, like urinating, or taking a nap in the grass next to a set. It does behoove you to work quickly and leave, but I would never advise anyone to let "human scent" override the necessity for good set construction, including bedding the trap, no matter how long it takes you to achieve that.

In the end, I rank "leaving human scent" very low on the list of concerns that can spell success or failure in a set.

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Bedding Land Traps. Land Trappers: Explain your procedure for solidly bedding a trap at a set.

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Name: Ethan Welscher
Well I would normally take a shovel and dig a 1 inch deep 5 inch on each side and place trap. Shift dirt over top and you have a very nicley bedded trap.
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Name: Trapper62
Well, this won't sound to new to Hal because I learned this method from his Canines 2000 book. I use the "pound down method" exactly like in the book and have had good luck getting my traps to bed solid. I trap mainly in pastures and hay meadows so that is why I choose to use this method!
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Name: Jim Severing
I like a bowl shaped bed for my trap, so the outside edges of my trap are basicaly supported and my trap chain and swivels dont get in the way. I add some loose dirt in bottom, place my trap in the bed push down and twist. I then (test) push down on the spring levers and oppisite sides of the jaws to find where the wobble if any is, if there is any I correct it. Then I pack loose dirt tight around the outside of the jaws. Next I sift a good covering over the trap, I then pack this down with my palms, I dont use pan covers, underalls or a trappers cap, as I find there more trouble than there worth and more to lug and worry about. I then give the bed a light sifting and blend it into the rest of the set at this time.
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Name: Keith Daniels
Scoop out the bed, slightly bigger than the trap, about 1 1/2" deep, for 1 1/2 or 3/4 coil. Take some of the heavier clods or pieces of sod and pack them in to make a bowl around the edge of the cut out. Push your set trap into it, so the levers, cross frame and latched jaw are solid and a little below ground level. Add more dirt if needed under the loose jaw, and push it in the dirt. The trap should be solid enough that you can lean on it pretty good all the way around the jaws, and on the levers, and it won't move. The center of the trap frame will actually be suspended in air. The little soft pocket under the traps allows it to take a little more water before it turns to a soup hole. (a trap stake hole here will help too)

After the trap is bedded solid, take more dirt and pack around the jaws and completely fill the bed so it's solid. Don't pack over the levers or on top the jaws! If you want to work a stone, twig etc. in your pattern, just bed it in when you pack around the jaws. Since the bed is practically filled up, it takes very little sifting to finish your set, and that's a big plus in wet clay!
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Name: trappnman
I believe the making the smallest bed possible is the key, as many including Hal have stated. I also like to give the trap a slight twist to seat the levers into the bed a little. I am a confirmed believer in using a trappers cap- I find that I can get the trap perfectly rock solid- and on land for both canines and coon that is a must.
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Name: Bill Potter
I like a diamond shaped hole not much bigger than the trap, dug in such away that all four sides meet in the bottom in a cone shape. I use a ground hog digging tool and bore a hole in the bottom of the bed, for my chain and cable stake. I use peat moss regardless of weather to cover with, because it handles rain so well and no need for pan covers. In freezing weather I bed in glycol mixed with dirt to get a solid bed and prevent freeze down and cover with moss and cover with a of layer the treated dirt, and blend as needed. I have tried other methods but this gives me solid bed and a trap that will work when it needs to.
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Name: Damien Farr
I first dig the bed out, as close to the trap size as posible but a little deep. Then a stake is driven in the bottem of the hole. Then the trap chain is placed on top of the stake. I then sift dry dirt over it to make it just below ground level. Now i bed the trap making sure that it does not tip or whoble. After this I sift a thin layer of dirt over the trap and pack it down, I continue this untill the trap is covered. Then I blend the soil whith the suroundins.
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Name: AR mountainman
To get a trap to bed solid, I dig a small bed. Only big enough for the trap. If the dirt is damp enough, I can get the trap solid pretty easy. In hard or frozen ground, I just beat a trap bed in with my sledge hammer. In some cases, I have dirt with me. In mild weather, I will just dig some damp dirt from a nearby location and use it to bed the trap in the pounded hole. Completely dry dirt gives me fits. Seems I spend a lot of time trying to pack dry dirt solid.
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Name: trappnman
Hals article in the recent FFG summed it up for me- small beds, tightly wedged traps. I like a trappers cap to get the most solid packing. In wet weather, dry dirt is a must.
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Name: brian
If you are using stakes, dig the hole just big enough to accept the trap, then drive the stake so that the unsupported jaw will rest on the top of the stake. I use either foam or fiberglass under the pan. Then sift dirt over the set and placing my hands flat with my thumbs and fingers touching(this leaves a triangle of space between your hands to surround the trap pan) I press down with my full upper body weight. This leaves the trap very solid and a light dusting of dirt and duff is all that is needed to blend it in. For conibears in trails if legal in your state I simply use survey stakes pounded in the ground. Simply rotate the body grip springs around the stake during final setting and it will firmly hold the trap and almost any angle or height.
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Name: ewoktrapper
For coils I like to dig the bed smaller than the trap (about a 3/4 or so under).Then take the hammer and pound the bed out to size. I also take the hammer and hit the center of the bed to make it bowl shape. This allows the trap to bed flat cause of the center swivel. I pound stake in the center of bed. When I set the trap in it's bed I take the mid-chain swivel and bed under the loose jaw too make solid. I use to put the stake under the loose jaw ,but it's easier to bury the stake. Also I had that mid-swivel under the pans a few times and the trap didn't fire, so I gave it something to do. Bed the trap, put tappers cap on and sift. After enough dirt I pack inside and out side of jaws. At this point I check to see if the trap is solid. If OK pull off cap finish the sifting and brush out set.
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Name: Don
I probably spend too long at a set making sure it's bedded solid, but I usually set the trap and use my trowel to score an outline of the trap. Then I dig inside the line and dig the center of the bed a little deeper to allow for the chain/shockspring. I then pound down the edges and then check the trap for wobble as outlined in Hal's Canine 2000 book. I can get them bedded fairly solid if I take my time, but if in a hurry - they aren't bedded as solid.
This last season, I tried Jim Cundiff's powerbedding method and it worked really well, just didn't catch anything because of the rain that came during Thanksgiving. Everything was solid mud. This summer I plan on practicing digging the bed without tracing and bedding it solid until I can do it under 3 minutes at a set. I think practice will make perfect.
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Name: yotebuster30
I have'nt been trapping long, but one thing I have found out for sure is to bed your traps in a solid manner, I have too many pictures of triped and dug traps just from not bedding properly, I now use Hals' method "the pound down method" and have had better luck with it. There are so many other things that can make a set go wrong that are out of our hands, but bedding a trap properly is something we can control, perhaps the most important thing we can do, after all, without a good foundation nothing will stand, yotebuster30
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Name: Wackyquacker
This is pretty easy to describe since Hal already published a book on my method. Maybe I got that a little backwards. I use night latches on all my traps. When at all possible I adjust the pan tension to about three pounds. I'm in sandy soil so I use old fiber glass insulation under the pan to keep it clear. It seems to take only a bit, maybe the front 1/3 to 1/2 of the pan. I bed as hard as I can by sifting over, clearing the pan, packing with my fingers and palms and repeating until I'm happy. I sift over and blend. I'm happiest when the trap is covered by at least 1/2 inch of dirt and the only significant soft spot is the pan. Just like Hal said in Canines 2000.

PS I do not know, nor have I had the pleasure of either meeting or talking to Hal. But I have read his book!
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Name: Hal
I note a number of respondents mentioned the "pound down" system so I'll try to explain it in a few words.

I start with a hole smaller than the trap. Yes, smaller -- by an inch or two. I dig this hole straight down, like a cylinder, not like a bowl. Most of the time, I have to use my fingers to get the loose dirt out of the hole. Then, using the flat end of my hammer, I pound down a rim around the outside of the hole. The levers and jaws of the trap are going to set on this rim, below ground level. (I pound out two opposing slots for the levers.)

I stake the trap in the bottom of the hole. (Sometimes this is difficult because the hole is deep.) Before I set the trap on the hard rim, I throw a few clods in the bottom of the hole to help take up the space. The trap sets on the rim, with the chain and hardware dangling under it. I "four-point" check the trap for wobble (each lever and each jaw) and adjust as necessary.

Finally I pack dirt around the outside of the trap -- if necessary. When you get adept at this you can pound out a bed that almost exactly fits the trap, and there will little need to pack the dirt outside the trap because it is undisturbed. Finally, I sift the dirt for the inside of the jaws and pack it with my palms, holding my thumbs and forefingers together to form a diamond shaped hollow that I keep centered over the trap pan. (Note: don't try this unless you're using at least two pounds of tension on the trap pan.) All my traps are short notched, and I rarely use pan covers.

The reason I like the "pound down" system so well is that the trap rests on solid, even compacted, ground. This, to me, is preferable to loosening up the soil then trying to pack a trap back into it.

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Biggest Mistakes: Experienced Trappers: What are some of the biggest mistakes you think you made on your early traplines?

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Name: mark d. stackhouse
not properly bedding or covering traps. traps werent properly adjusted, not properly staked, wired off, dragged, etc. used to big of traps for some animals, to small for others, didnt properly use bait or lure. didnt understand blind sets, couldn't see just how simply they really were, thought i was missing something, couldn't be that simple i thought. still cant believe i never figured out the bottom edge set before it came out in print. i knew minnows, frogs, other things hid up underneath under cut banks and had seen muskrats swim in and out from under there, but never thought about setting a trap there for mink or muskrats.
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Name: Glenn
My biggest physical mistake in my early trapping was poor staking. I had a few 'rats get away with traps till I got it through my thick skull that I needed to stake better. My biggest mental mistake came as a teen, when I was too busy dreaming about Canadian or Alaskan wilderness areas and not taking advantage of what I had right at home.
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Name: Josey Wales
Spending too much time at sets. I now know how to make sets and get in and get out, cutting down on scent and chance of being seen by trap thieves. Not using snares enough. Coons are now in serious trouble when I walk into the woods with my snares. I prebaited too early one year, and ended up catching more opposums than raccoons. I had my 220 cubbies dug out and baited and dreamed of a big, first catch and greatly needed money, but the big catch didn't come and I lost money, but not experience.
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Name: j collins
Bedding traps. Never solid enough.
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Name: Jim Severing
Weak wire, light drags, poor swiveling, didnt stick to the same footprints in the snow like I was taught and lost more traps to trap thieves then I should of, also talked a little to much about what I was catching and where, with others in school and got cleaned out of traps a couple of times, before I learned to keep my big mouth shut. checking traps early in the morning with a light, being in a rush to locate the trap and almost having a couple of close incounters of the unwanted kind, still never learned from this last mistake! Probally should stop here, unless I want to write a novel, probally the only book I could fill up.
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Name: Ethan Welscher
Probaly leaving scent on my fox traps.
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Name: Brent Lindman
Wow being self learnt I made a ton of them. Probably the biggest mistake I made was not setting in a good loc because of the lack of sign. Missed out on a lot of furs those first few years
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Name: jim laughinghouse
i disturbed area to much and left to much human scent.
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Name: Krogg
Leaving too much of my scent around, and not properly bedding traps.
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Name: trappnman
My biggest mistakes were not anchoring traps properly. Learning when to use wire and how to double stake. I learned to NEVER use less as an anchor than I know I should and for land traps that means double staking for yotes - always. The hardest thing to learn is location - whether for mink, coyotes or whatever. The more you understand location, the easier the whole game seems to become.
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Name: badger
Not bedding the trap properly, overluring, and not haveing confidence in myself.
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Name: Jack Turner
1. Anchoring with short, single stakes.
2. Using thin wire.
3. Improperly bedding traps.
4. Selecting "convenient" rather than good locations for sets.
5. Being impatient.
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Name: Larry Swisher
I made the mistakes most make. Mostly not looking after the small details i.e. trap placement and adjustment, too much lure, and contamination of equipment.
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Name: Hal
We've encountered some reoccurring themes here, so beginning trappers take note, especially in regards to anchoring and fastening your traps.

From a personal perspective, if I had to choose one element I would say that the failure to properly bed and stabilize both bodygrip and foothold traps was one of my biggest mistakes. When I learned to do this properly, my catch went up, and my incidence of fired empty traps fell drastically.

I also think choosing proper location for your sets is very important, but I can't really classify this as a true "mistake". It takes time and experience to learn to select good locations.

I noticed several references "human scent" in this discourse, I don't this plays as big a role as many trappers think it does and I believe this will make a good discussion topic for the next installment of "On Track."

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What Age? All Trappers: At what age did you start trapping? Who got you started?

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Name: Ill. Trapper
I got my start at 11 years old tagging along with my brother and some of his college buddies. After they were done with college I trapped with my brother and even had some of my own traps. To me this was a big deal. Now I trap with a buddy and we each have young kids who tag along with us and the memories we are building are great.
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Name: al
i started trapping this season <2001> at the ripe old age of 33, ok I'm a late bloomer. as for who got me started i would say it would have been my son, I've always liked camping and other out door activities, thought I'd try trapping figuring it would lead to more time spent with my son and now with my daughter also when she is older.
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Name: mark d. stackhouse
i started going with my grandpa when i was 3. set my own traps when i was barely 5. my grandpa got me started, an uncle trapped a little too and helped. storys my grandmother told me about her trapping as a young girl helped fuel my interest. storys my dad and his mother told me about my other grandfather who was a trapper, sparked my interst too. i never knew him, he died on my first birthday, so trapping has always been a link to my past ancestors.
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Name: Glenn
I started at the age of 8 after I found two old 0's hanging in the cellar. My dad bought me 3 #1 jumps at the hardware store to augument my ancient hardware and took me back to a small stream and showed me basic muskrat sets. Somehow I managed to catch 4 the first season. After that I was off and running.
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Name: Josey Wales
Young. Trapped with my brother and dad. Didn't go along too much, and didn't rediscover trapping and start trapping on my own and actually learn to love the sport until 1995. I feel I'm a better trapper than my dad or brother now, and basically self-taught, but the initial introduction came from my brother
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Name: j collins
I layed my first steel at 6 yrs. Got started from watching and helping my uncle. Had a couple of worn out B&L #1's. Caught my first red fox that year and have been hooked since. That fox brought $75.00. It was frozen during the 'blizzard' of "68.
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Name: Jim
Started on my own at the age of 15.
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Name: Jim Severing
Started trapping around the age of five, with my father on his line, on some of the days he ran his fox hound with my uncle Bob's, I would get a chance to also check his traps with them, he lived about thirty miles away. I miss those days of being carried across rivers, brooks and some of the deeper snow drifts, with large eyes and wonder.
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Name: parker stevens
12yrs old, some of us local kids found an old beaver trap in a barn. it took 3 of us to set it. i was the biggest so i stepped on the spring and the little guys messed with trigger. we did catch a muskrat are first time out. we thought it was a baby beaver! we went to get the rest of the kids in town to show them how smart we were. i was hooked!
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Name: Ethan Welscher
I started trapping at the age of 9. My uncle Terry Galleger got me started.
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Name: Krogg
I started trapping at the age of ten with tips and hints from my family and friends.
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Name: Chris Cottrill
i started 2 years ago one of my best friends got me started on his tales of magnifacent catchs and tales of his anventures. i would just like to say thank you to him and wis name is bill thank you and jack turrner he helped me buy sending me a copy of trapline 2000 by hal sullivan.
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Name: Freebird/ Mike
The very first trap I set was when I was about ten years old. My neighbors were coon hunters and at that time coon were high priced. I thought it looked like fun , but had little success, because of lack of information. Took 15 years off and started again , having a blast this time.
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Name: travis warren
I started trapping when i was five years old. I was visiting my grandpa one sunday and i found traps in his shed, a old man who used to longline for fox showed me everything.
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Name: David Lyons
I started at about 11 to 12 and am now 23 and there is no sport like trapping I enjoy being that close to the animals and going toe to toe with a digger fox.
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Name: Brent Lindman
I started trapping at the age of 7. In northern Sask. I trapped squirrels and weasle until I started trapping beaver at the age of 9. When I was 11 I caught my first fox. From there i graduated to mink and coyote. AT 16 i snared my first wolf. I had no one to teach my or mentor me. It was all self learnt as my family didn't trap or hunt. My father was very supportive as he would drive me out to check my beaver and cannine traps. My mother was also pretty good as she tollerated the stange smell wafting up from the basement all winter long. She also found more then one dead animal sprawled across the top of the deep freeze when she went down to get meat up for supper. Trapping for me has been a life long passion. Were I came about it I have no idea but I'm so glad I did as it keep me out of trouble in my youth. Thanks mom and dad for the 34 years of support
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Name: Mike
This year, started at 36 years. I absolutely love it. A friend that lives one street over got me started. I can't get out of the house to run the line without my 6 year old right beside me. What an early start he has on old dad.
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Name: Dave
I started trapping at age 34, I got started when I found a catalog at work.
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Name: JAMES LAUGHINGHOUSE
i started trapping when i was 8or 9 years old. i got started by watching old men bring furs to an old store where i lived .
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Name: dusty
started when i was 10
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Name: Krogg
Age: ten , myself
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Name: John Bruning
I started trapping at the age of 9.( i am only 14 now!) a good man by
the name of Lewis Quarles got me started. he was a great trapper in my area,
but recently passed away. his name on this line(forum) was Turtleman.
if you knew him, email me at cyco@intercom.net
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Name: Marc "professor" Farrell
Without counting dead-fall sets when I was in my early teen years set for rabbits, I began trapping when I was 62 years old (last year). Followed Mike "trappingmike" Riley around in northern Maine for a year, completed the mandatory course for licensing, and read maybe 500 article on trapping before ever setting a trap. Made all the mistakes, trapped a good amount of fur for my first year, and I am eagerly awaiting this Fall to apply what I have learned.
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Name: Louis Simpson
I started trapping when I was 14. My dad got me started.
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Name: Trevor
I started trapping at 15, at the time you had to be 16 to by a license so my sister bought a license and I trapped as a partner under her. Basically I got myself started, reading every book and magazine I could get my hands on. Then I meet another guy in my class who trapped and started tagging along with him.
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Name: Trapper62
At around age 6, my dad trapping muskrats and then on to Red Fox!
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Name: Dave C.
I started at 46 after my two sons, age 9 and 12, and I went to a trapper convention. We got some tips, entered in the trap setting contest, watched some demonstrations, bought a few books, and later tried to get a few rats from our farm pond. After a few unsuccessful weeks of checking our sets we finally gave up and waited until after deer season to try for beaver. Not knowing much about it, we put two 330's out for two nights and had two nice beaver. We pulled the traps immediately because we didn't want to get too far ahead of ourselves, not knowing how to flesh and board. After a lenghty Internet search that took us around the continent we happened on a link to a trapper called Buckshot who lives in a town near us and sells trapping supplies. Buckshot invited us to his house to show us how to handle beaver fur. Naturally we went home happy and loaded down with aprons, fleshing knives, beams, gloves, lure, and a few more traps. This year my youngest son, now 11, and I are after fisher, bobcats, fox, coyote, and beaver. We've had a few successes, a few almosts, and many failures, but can't get enough. My son and I are spending countless hours together that would never happen if we didn't trap.
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Name: Paul Somers
I began trapping at the age of 4. My father started me with trapping muskrats
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Name: B
I started trapping when I was 14. A guy that lived next door to me trapped and I use to go with him, I knew I was born to be a trapper soon I was out there taking the hard knocks and slowly learning. Spent $22.00 dollars on traps. Dad said I was crazy. Caught 3 coons and 5 muskrats. The coons brought 34.50 ea. and the rats 6.00. Dad asked me if I was gonna buy more traps. :).......B......
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Name: R. Blevins
Age 11 my uncle was a fox coon and rat trapper and he give me some fox traps
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Name: Dewey
15 years old when i strarted coon hunting I needed coons to train my pups. Scense then I've started traping foxs and coons to go in our pens that he built to train in.
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Name: Hoytman
I started trapping in 1969 when I was 10 years old. My cousin and I were wandering along a creek bank trying to catch fish and noticed a trap. (victor #1 ls) with a live rat in it. Well, we killed the rat and went back to fishing. About an hour later an old guy walks up and asks if we killed his rat. (must have noticed all the boulders and the crushed skull.) Well, thinking we were in trouble we confessed to the dirty deed. To our relief the old guy thanked us, something about a slider getting caught on a kink in the drowning rig wire yotta yotta yotta. huh! This trapping stuff looked pretty cool, so I asked the old timer where could I buy some traps. Buy? 10 yr. old? money? ha. Well, the old timer took off this stinky nasty looking basket off his back, reached in and pulled out a 1/2 dozen rusty old prettiest pieces of steel I had ever seen and gave them to us. He explained how to make a couple of basic sets, (a slide and feed bar set) and told us if we caught anything to bring it to his house and he would buy it from us. Then we could buy more traps and make mo money, mo money, mo money. I don't remember the old timers name, but I do remember that first muskrat. It was a slow learning curve, but 3 weeks later I returned to the old guys farm with 3 rats and 1 soggy coon. I think I got $16 or $18 for the lot. I was rich. I blew the whole wad on brand new traps, and a week later caught my first mink. A large female solid jet black. The old man showed me how to skin it, flesh it, and dry it. Then he pulled out his wallet, handed me 2 $1s, I thought wow 2 bucks. Then he pulled out a $20 dolaar bill and said "here ya go boy. I ain't never caught no black mink in that crick. Hell, I ain't never caught no mink in that crick." I don't know if that was a fair price or not, but I was hooked. I even have 2 or 3 of those free traps left.
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Name: trappnman
I was one of the lucky ones. My grandfather trapped, and my uncles all trapped. Water only- mink and rats on the big marshes of the Mississippi, then later beaver when a season was reinstated in the late 50's. My dad also blind set for mink on the many small fresh water creeks in the area. My first memories of trapping are being carried on his shoulders when he was checking mink traps at night. A soft snow was falling, and I felt right at home. This was when I was about 5. Started running my own muskrat and gopher trapping lines about 8 or so. learned to put up rats when about the same age.
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Name: joe roman
im almost 18 and this is my first season i do ok 4 myself but not great i get opossums, coons, and skunks which i like all of them a lot and now im trying to go 4 the red fox.
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Name: andrew
13 i did
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Name: David Leibig
I started to trap at the age of 30 yrs. old. A friend that I work with is a trapper. He helped me get started. He showed me what to look for and how to read sign. Started off with a bad experience, Ed showed me where to set traps for Rats. We marked the holes and runs in advanced. On opening morning there was ice covering the swamp. Every where I went the ice was broken and froze over again where someone went in before the season and trapped my marked holes and runs. That did not stop me. I still ended up with 38 rats and two beaver. I was hooked.
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Name: Damien Farr
I was 6 or so, my father would take me on the line before head start. Some of the fondest memories of my childhood came from our line.
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Name: badger
Started trapping when I was 12 or so, saw my relatives and a neighbor do it a little; but most of my influence was Bob Gilsvik in the school library. I would read his Modern trappline about every study hall. Returned to trapping when I was about 26, notice a lot of people my age returning.
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Name: Jack Turner
I began trapping in 1990 at the age of 22. Allen Wright, current Wildlife Officer for Brown County, Ohio, took me on the line with him 2 days. That's all it took.
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Name: Chris
I got started when I was 13 or 14, I don't remember. I saw a copy of FFG at the local supermarket and flipped throgh it and saw that unlike other outdoor magazines, it contained trapping stuff. I remembered going trapping one day with my uncle, and also recalled that my late grandfather was a trapper, so I thought I would give it a try. I bought that issue, and have been a trapper ever since, and am now 27. And wouldn't you know I STILL have that firs issue of FFG I bought ?
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Name: Larry Swisher
I started out around the age of 14. Started out with a freind of mine trapping muskrat, and coon.
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Name: Hal
I started trapping at age 12. My dad had done a little trapping in his youth, and showed me how to set #1 longsprings in the local drainage ditches to catch muskrats. He showed me how to set the trap deep to achieve a hind-foot catch and avoid wring out's in the shallow water. From that point on, I have been basically self taught. I do, however, credit the many authors that I followed in the pages of Fur-Fish-Game, and The Trapper and Predator Caller whose articles I consumed by the thousands.

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Modifications on Canine Traps. Canine Trappers: What kind of modifications do you use on your traps, or how do your traps differ from common traps (offset, four-coiled, etc.)?

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Name: wisconsin trapper
For coyotes i use offset traps exclusively. some of my traps are four coiled.i like short chains with double stake ends for secure staking. i also use shock springs on my coyote traps.
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Name: oswegotrapper
The only modifications I make are those that you mention here - I offset traps 1/4" to improve holding power, and also any traps that are not four-coiled, I add coils to make them as such. Beefer spring kits are good for this. One additional tip that has helped me, I like heavy pan tension, to avoid toenail catches. In this manner, the animal really has to commit before the trap fires. This will reduce your toenail catches and false firings to nearly zero. Make sure there's no give in the trap either, especially more so with the heavy pan tensions.
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Name: CARY
I center swivel the chain in the center of the frame and put a swivel at the trap, middle of the chain, and at the stake. I also modify the pan and dog. I then level the pan by shortening the dog and bending the frame. I notch the pan to create a night latch/shorter trigger release The best way is to just install the PAWS-I-TRIP system put at around $30.00 a dozen this is a little expensive.
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Name: Dave Keener
Four-coiled, offset laminated jaws, base plated, center swiveled with machine chain and two in-line swivels.
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Name: Coontrap
I trap mostly for coyote and fox. The traps I use for both are the 1.75 Sleepy Creek with center swiveled base plate and offset jaws, the 1.65 Bridger center swiveled base plate, offset jaws, 4 coiled with 3/16 jaw lammination. I also like to use PIT in line shock springs on all my traps. These traps are small compared to what most people use but they are strong and I have had no trouble catching and holding even the largest coyote. Foot damage is rare with these traps.
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Name: Larry Swisher
I am new to the modifying traps. I have started by shortening the chain. I also place a swivel at both ends and in the middle of the chain. I have been looking into laminating the jaws and base plating them. I think I will do this for next season.
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Name: David Lyons
The only thing I have done to my canine traps is to have 2 swivels plus an end swivel at the stake. I am going to and shock absorbers to my coyote traps next year.
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Name: Ric
In general I tinker with traps a lot more than what others would think is absolutely necessary. In general I like off-set jaws on traps generally used on land. Jaws will be laminated if the jaw design allows for it. I try for a min. of 1/4" jaw face on 1-1/2 and 2 sized traps much more will give problems in the conditions I have. Pan & dog are fine tuned, the nite latch method is used as this simplifies this, compared to other methods I've used. Trap designs that have weak frames will be base plated. Chains and swivels, Chain length about 8-10",machine chain I find is easier to work with, a minimum of 3 swivel points usually more. A typical set up for me would be Sterling swivel, chain link, double swivel, chain link, sterling swivel -- this is about 8". Four coiling?, I don't but I do up grade springs,#2 music wire on a 1-1/2 etc. A trap needs balance, jaw faces to springs, springs to soil conditions etc., one area you can't go wrong is more good quality swivels in your fastening system
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Name: Hardy
The only trap that I use is the Blake and Lamb #3 double longspring. They are completly modified for use in the coyote live market. First, the jaws are laminated with 1/4" cold roll on the top of the jaw. The ends of the lamination are tacked down, the trap is opened up and then a fast pass is used to weld up the small gap between the top of the jaw and the lamination. This is then smoothed out with a small grinder with a sand paper grinding disc. All sharp edges rounded with a pencil grinder. The pan notch is worked over to a night latch set up. I have a 20 ton press in my shop, so I made a jig to make my own base plates. Have made a jig to build my own D-rings. Also, have built a jig to make my own j-hooks for swivels. All traps have a 5/16" offset. This is what I've found to work the best for me in my area with the conditions I have to work.
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Name: Dan
laminate, center swivel, off set jaws, 4 coil
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Name: Robert
I laminate my canine traps with 3/16 rod. On the offset traps I will 4 coil them. All traps are night-latched and that's it.
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Name: Jack Turner
I remove the factory chain and replace it with stronger chain. I center-swivel the chain to the bottom of the trap, add a swivel in the middle of the chain and have a double stake swivel on the end of the chain. The trap of choice is a #1 3/4 off-set BMI trap. With free roaming cats and dogs in my area, this trap has been a blessing. Pan tension is adjusted for my target species - usually fox. Obviously, I'll file any sharp edges, but other than that I don't do much else. I have a few traps specifically for coyotes and those are #2's. I have added Conner shock springs in the chain on those. I dye and wax my canine traps as well.
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Name: me man
I generally shorten the chain and add an additional swival. I make shur that the pan trigger assemble does not creep prior to fireing. I also use 4 coils and offset jaws. I like a number 2 bridger only because it can really get through the dirt fast.
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Name: Bob Anick
COYOTE: Without a doubt, the first thing I look for in a "Yote" trap is strenght. In my opinion, the trap doesn't have to be huge, just strong. The base and jaws must be unbendable. Next, if it isn't center swiveled, I won't use it. So, I center swivel and perfer a base plate (this adds strenght). Next, I four-coil; four-coiling adds strenght and balance. Once a strong trap has been found, I work on the ancoring/shock absorber system. Bearing in mind that a coyote will try to pump the stake, I do the following: (this is all dependant on the type of soil I am in) I will either use a short chain of about 6-7" (without a shock absorber) with a double stake system or earth anchor (I've had to hook these things to the trailer hitch of my truck in some cases just to get them out of the ground!). I don't use a shock absorber in this case because of the short chain; there's no need for one as the animal cannot lunge far enough. Or, after seeing this set-up at the FTA Trappers short course several years ago, I may use a 5' heavy chain. The long, heavy chain serves the purpose of a shock absorber. As the animal lunges, the weight of the chain slows him down. Also, the lenght completely eliminates the possibility of pumping the stake out. Finally, I like a trap with an offset jaw. I believe that the extra comfort afforded the animal in increased blood flow to the pad is imperitive in reducing the animal's will to fight the trap.

FOX: I can usually pull a new Victor 1.5 (offset) out of the box and go to work (provided it is staked well). I haven't seen too many fox defeat a trap of this size. But, I will only use a 1.75 (setup as described above) if there is a chance of catching a Coyote, with special emphasis on staking.
Hope this helps!
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Name: Paul
I like to use a #3 bridger four coiled with laminated offset jaws. I tune my traps for a one pound pan tension and a night notch for the dog. I also fasten the chain to the bottom of the trap with 2 swivels and a shock spring with a 2 foot chain.
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Name: Hal
My minimum requirement for a canine trap is to have it center swiveled, with about 8 to 10 inches of chain and at least four swiveling points, usually more. I also night latch the pan. As for other modifications, I may or may not. The truth is, I have basically stopped buying traps that need extensive modification. I have traps with laminated, offset jaws. I believe they are beneficial. I also believe 4-coiling is beneficial, particularly in regards to coyotes. A lot depends on where I'm going to use the trap. I trap in a lot of high theft areas. I hate to spend a lot of time and money doing extensive modification to a trap just to have it stolen.

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Coon Sets. Coon Trappers: What set do you find most effective on raccoons? Please describe.

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Name: wisconsin trapper
The most effective set for raccoons for me has been the culvert set. in wisconsin it is legal to trap county and state highway right-of-ways. a 160 conibear or even a foothold on the coon trail that is present at many culverts is very effective for a high raccoon catch
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Name: trappnman
My favorite set for coon is a pocket set - whether on land or in water. On land, I like to dig a pocket next to a log, so it goes between the log, and a branch at about a 45 degree angle. Dig the pocket back up under the log. Bed your trap so that it is about 6 inches back from the pocket, with the dog side of the trap tight to the main log. I double wire these traps to the log. Pack trap tight. Sift dirt in a pattern so that it extends beyond the trap bed about a foot or so- about 1/2 inch layer (To make a long story short, this prevents digging at the bed) Lure with a liquid bait. I use fish oil/lure. To work the bait smell, the coon first works on top of the log, but sooner or later, he must get down on the dirt- and the log and branch act as great guides - a super set. In water, a waters edge pocket, baited with rat lure combo, with a slide wire. I use this set exclusively in winter, and the sets stay in place for several months, producing constantly. The best location is a bunch of old trees, next to where a shelf comes down to the water. Put the pocket right on the shelf's edge in 4-5 inches of water.
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Name: oswegotrapper
Coon are not hard to lure and catch, so most any set will catch them. Add fish to any of your other sets, and coon will go to them. They are taken by any canine set, so don't be surprised to find them in a dirthole set. They are equally at home around water, so you'll get them in your rat or mink sets too. Even crudely-fashioned cubby sets guarded by a 220 or 260 will take them. If you're targeting strictly coon, stick with fish oil, or sweet-type lures.
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Name: CARY
The pocket set baited with fish is hard to beat. Coon lure is an smart option after cold weather sets in.
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Name: Glenn
There are two of them and either one is a tossup. The first is the old fashioned 'water set' for fox. That sets a real catch all, just like a dirt hole. The other set is a baited pocket set, made much like you would for a mink, except maybe make the pocket larger. I have found that fish and/or honey attracts coon like no other, so I bait my pockets with that.
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Name: David Lyons
I have found that the pocket set and the 220 box set have worked the best for me. I know that its not new but it works
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Name: aric
i find the box set using sticks and sun made carp oil with some fish chunks works for any coon that has came by my set
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Name: rookie
I have cought most of my coon in pocket sets and a few in colverts. From the few years I have been trapping I have found out that live bait like creek chubs work great for these kind of sets. They have the fish smell that the coons around there are use too. Haven't had much luck with lures.
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Name: Jack Turner
There must be 2 answers to this as coon run both water and land. On land, a dirthole is hard to beat. They will usually stay at the set long enough to get caught. In water, I like the pocket set with bait or lure. I try to utilize the slide-wire drowner with this set whenever possible as this saves the set and dispatches the animal.
When the weather isn't cooperating, snares can be a blessing on those trails so give them a try.
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Name: Drew Daily
While I was trapping a small creek that held good coon sign, I became frustrated from not making a catch with pockets. I began to play a little and came up with this set. I have never heard it described, but someone may use it already. On a small sand bar in the creek, I placed a 1 1/2 CS just covered by the water and staked to deeper water on the upstream point of the sandbar. I then took a stick (approx. 24 inches long) and stuck it into the bar with the tip directly above the trap. I then wired a couple of marshmallows to the tip of the stick. This set, as silly as it may sound, caught the coons that I was not getting with the pockets. The coon were all caught by a hind foot - I gather that they stand up to get the bait and land on the pan. When I noticed that coon were not coming out to the sandbars and just making tracks on the banks, I placed a some dead wood on the bar with a good amount of a strong trailing lure soaked into. The set got fired up again. I have caught nine more coon than I probably would have with this set made the same way in 5 locations.
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Name: Waz
Blind sets. I like to find the trails in the water along a shoreline, or where the 'coon are entering/exiting the water. I'll use a stepping stick about the size of a pencil, then I'll also use the same size sticks to fence the 'coon and force them over the trap. I do use a trailing scent, either fish oil (I used to find this in an aerosol can, but it is no longer available and my personal supply is running low) or now salmon oil. Occasionally, if I'm prebaiting I will dig out a pocket in the areas where the 'coon are entering/exiting the water. During the season, if I see where a 'coon has been near the set, but didn't get caught(usually at remakes) I'll add some crayfish holes and fill 'em with salmon oil. To make the crayfish holes I simply use my fingers and poke holes in the bank above the trap. When the ground freezes, I use snares on the dry land trails.
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Name: Hal
My #1 favorite coon set is the blind set. Coon trails and paths are not hard to find and nothing could be simpler than sticking a trap in front of them. However, when trails are not apparent, I won't hesitate to plug in a pocket set.

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Wet/freezing Canine Sets. Canine Trappers: How do you maintain your sets for wet and/or freezing weather.

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Name: Sparky
For wet weather I use a lot of post and flat sets. The post that I am using is something that the canine will find attractive even if the urine/gland gets washed away. For the flat sets I often use a block of wood that has a small hole drilled into the bottom edge at an upward angle. I poke cotton into this hole and then add the lure. When set in this way, the lure can't get washed away. I always try to place my traps on a knoll if on location. Sandy areas always drain faster and areas with vegetation (grass, sod) get rid of water quicker. For freezing weather I am a big fan of waxed dirt with a second choice being peat moss.
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Name: Albert Ladd
Dry anthill dirt, Waxed dirt
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Name: Ethan Welscher
I use John Eplers no freeze powder.
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Name: trappnman
While I have no doubt that waxed dirt would be the ideal way to go- I try to stop trapping on land by Thanksgiving, and haven't convinced myself yet that I need it (Last winter it came close- snowcover came Nov 6 and stayed til April.) Meanwhile, until I do start waxing dirt, I just save dry dirt form gopher mounds- it is basicly presifted, you can choose what color dirt it is, and in my area it is readily avaiable.
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Name: Greenhorn
I use dry dirt that I carry in to the set and replace as needed. Am considering trying waxed dirt this fall
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Name: coontrap
Dry dirt (collected now) with a light sprinkle of flake type antifreeze over the set works well for me. Line the trap bed with crumpled up wax paper to prevent the trap from freezing to the ground during a freeze/thaw cycle.
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Name: Larry Baer
In freezing but dry waether I make my sets with dry dirt. What seems to keep my sets working the longest is using half to three quarters of a five gallon bucket of bone dry dirt per set. Just dig a much bigger hole for the trap. It works best if your ground is very frozen. A set has worked for me for three weeks before a catch like this for me. Our dirt is clay and holds water like a soupbowl if it rains or melts. In wet/freezing/thawing weather I remake alot w/ hulls-chaff-pine needles ect.
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Name: Ray Jordan
Fortunately I trap the arid west, so most years this is not much of a problem. In the odd wet fall, I use pre-sifted dry dirt to re-bed with. Anthill dirt also works well. I years past I used calcium chloride, but stopped because of the rust and equiptment damage.
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Name: Jack Turner
I use calcium chloride as an antifreeze and also use dry dirt. The dry dirt is gathered over the summer and allowed to completely dry. Then it is placed in 5 gallon buckets. I try to place sets on a hill or mound as to allow the excess water to run off should it rain.
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Name: Tom
When trapping in freezing weather. I use the droppings underneath sage brush, it works really well for me here(Utah) It is always dry and I am able to always find enough for what I need, I also use a wrinkled piece of waxed paper over the trap pan. Using this also saves me the bother of hauling in coverhulls or dry dirt.
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Name: Tom Mcdowell
On my trap lines here in New Mexico I use leaf litter/dirt from under Junipers. Its dry, cheap, available, repells water and it works!
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Name: oswegotrapper
In the past I have always used buckwheat hulls or cattail fluff to insulate footholds in winter. But I read something two summers ago that talked about glycerine and I used that last year with good success. It doesn't smell (either that or the animals don't mind it) and it prevents freeze-up but won't melt snow, etc. I guess it's sort of an anti-freeze sort of thing, I don't know. Try it - it's expensive but worth it if your trapping is hampered by lots of weather changes (and whose isn't?).
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Name: Dan
Buckwheat Hulls, they work in all types of weather and blend in around the set. There advantages are many, they are light weight, natural, and easy to use. With the use of a step down dirt hole they are protected from high winds. However, I have never had wind blow them away from any set. The use of buckwheat hulls eliminates the need for dry dirt, anti freeze, and trap line covers. A win win situation.
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Name: scott manning
I save my used charcoal ashes from the grill and store this in a ziplock bag and use the ashes to line my trap bed and also bury the trap in ashes too then top it off with a thin layer of dirt to blend it.
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Name: Hal
My primary antifreeze component is calcium chloride. It is, however, very corrosive to traps and your traps have to be waxed or dipped if you're going to use chloride. I also use propylene glycol (mixed 50-50 with water) as an antifreeze. This seems to work well in moderately freezing weather but in my opinion it is not quite as effective as chloride, especially in lower temperatures. The advantage of glycol is that it does not rust traps. I do keep a supply of dry dirt on hand, but most often I gather dry dirt right on my trapline. There are may places, like under bridges, old buildings, bulldozer piles, uprooted trees, etc., where you can find dry (or at least semi-dry) dirt in wet weather. Actually, I like the semi-dry dirt better because it will pack and make for better trap bedding.

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Trapline Transportation. All Trappers: What means of transportation do you use to cover your trapline?

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Name: Freebird
4-wheeler and a 4 wheel drive pickup. Also hope to use canoe a little bit as well this season
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Name: Albert Ladd
Chevy truch for trapping coyotes, Ski-doo tundra for snaring coyotes and beaver trapping.
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Name: ID Trapper
I use a 4x4 pickup or an atv for most places. If I can't get there using these, which is fairly often, I walk!
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Name: Trapper62
Chevy 4x4 and a Yamaha 3-wheeler. Most of my beaver trapping is done by foot once you reach location.
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Name: Rick S
I use a 4x4 half ton pick up for road travel. After I get to my spot I use my feet and haul my gear in a plastic sled. I even use it for water trapping. I like to walk all places where I have permission to trap that way I don't miss any sign. I know it takes longer than using an ATV, snow machine or boat, but most of my spots are under 500 acres.
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Name: Ethan Welscher
I always walk on my trapline.
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Name: master trapper
I use a honda forman 500cc 4 by 4
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Name: L.Baer
Pick-up(2-wheel drive),4-wheeler,and my own 2 feet. Most sets are 100 yards or less from the road. I use a canoe alot before the ice gets too thick.
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Name: Ray Jordan
Mostly an ATV. Perhaps 25% of my sets can be reached by pick-up.
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Name: Raccoontrapper
I use my '94 Ford F150 and my legs to get me around for trapping. I do alot of river trapping so the main thing is getting from river to river.
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Name: Jack Turner
I use my 1990 Chevy Lumina as my trapping vehicle. I admit that it has it's limitations. However, when dry, I drive crop fields, meadows or tractor lanes just like the truck guys. Obviously, when I can't drive to the sets I park the car and walk. The trunk of my car is neatly organized so I can find things quickly.
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Name: Tom
I use atv's most of the time when I have large areas to cover, other wise I use my Jeep with a box in back to hold my stuff, then carry what I need in a five gallon bucket. When carrying catch's I will sling them over my shoulder with a piece of rope tied to there feet, you can carry several animals this way quite comfortably.
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Name: nPAtrapper
I walk to my few sets.
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Name: mike indiana
My water line {coon, mink, rats, and beaver}, I use a 14ft jon boat with a 25hp Suzuki. A few weeks ago I purchased a 24hp Honda Go-Devil, because I had my eyes on a couple of shallow rivers that are excellent for coon, beaver, and mink. I trap rivers because I lack the private ground, and I live on one of the rivers.
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Name: Joe House
I have a jeep wrangler that I trap with. Its like a big fourwheeler but with heat, radio, and a confortable seat. The small size and short turning radius are a help.
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Name: Coonxpress
On most of my lines I will be useing a bicycle.I have it set up with a small home-made trailer that'll hold all the equipment. On the beaver sets i'll just drive the truck as close as possible.
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Name: Mac
I use a 1977 Toyota FJ40 Landcruiser. It gets me everywhere I need to go.
Mac
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Name: Glenn
Ford Ranger pickup. As a long line minker, I have to have something economical. Before this, I used an old Chevy Chevette, with the back seat down it served the purpose.
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Name: Hal
Looks like pickups and atv's are all the rage here. I'm not much different. I use a pickup. It is two wheel drive, but I did order a limited slip differential so at least both rear wheels will drive. I pull a trailer on which I haul my ATV from stop to stop. I find covering my line with the ATV does less damage to fields lanes, etc. than would a 4WD pickup. This helps keep me in good graces with the people I trap on.

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Muskrat Lure. Muskrat Trappers: What part does lure and/or bait play in your muskrat trapping?

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Name: Greenhorn
When trapping muskrats in open water I use bait and lure almost exclusively. I use shallow pocket sets the most, with carrots or apples for bait, along with a muskrat lure. I find these simple and fast sets very effective in the sloughs I trap.
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Name: Ric
During the fall I do not target 'rats most years but quite a few are caught at mink and coon sets. Most sweet coon lures seem to be fairly attractive to 'rats. After Jan 1st I target 'rats specifically, if there is open water I find lures beneficial. I do use different vegetables more as a visual attractor than a bait
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Name: long liner
good rat lure does help, for bait i use sliced carrot or apple, works good in open water or under ice on trigger of conni. or on slant pole set under ice with foothold, i caught a mink under ice with apiece of carrot on trigger of 160 conni. this past season.
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Name: Trapper62
None. In North Dakota we are allowed to trap inside the houses / huts. So all of my rat trapping is done in the runs that lead to and from the huts.
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Name: d holmes
have never seen any added success in using lures. have used bait in areas where runs and holes are hard to locate or access, also under ice. really bait and lures play a very small role on my line
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Name: Justin Adams
Areas where entrance holes are hard to find that lead to dens lures and baits for pocket sets are important.
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Name: oneshot
I really don't use lure for rat. I usally set on sign, runs, holes, slides etc. I will sometimes use a floating bait set.
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Name: dusty
very little i set mostly 110's and box traps in dens and deep runs
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Name: Dale Frank
I really enjoy taking rats from their under water runs and den holes.( den holes under water are legal to set in Illinois. ) Lure and bait really work nice though when I have a ditch that is almost impossible to wade due to depth or soft bottoms from silt.
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Name: MARTIN GRUBER
None. Blind sets and floats take care of the 'rats for me.
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Name: Jack Turner Jr
Probably 3 out of 4 sets have bait or lure.
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Name: willman
What part? It plays a big part on my trapline i just use footholds. Im to young yet to use conis.Im only 12 and my parents wont let me use them yet.
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Name: Robert
Last season, being the first, I didn't use lure. Used bait on 110's for under ice. This year lure will be added, plus some bait on float sets. Under ice sets will of course get baited with carrots.
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Name: Jake lawrence
a big factor it draws them from across the creek. mix catnip with some pepperment place it on the bank above your trap and your ready to go. make sure there is no brush downstream from the set.
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Name: Jim Severing
Approximatly twenty five percent of my rat sets are lured, about five percent baited, the rest are blind sets, for most of the season. spring rat trapping I go with rat gland lure at about half my sets.
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Name: tannehill
very limted i usally set on fresh sing unless i am running low on traps then i will use some muskrat musk
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Name: S.M. Bular
None, I have trapped muskrats for years using only blind set in rat runways with great success.
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Name: trappnman
I grew up on the Winona Pools in the Upper Mississippi area, and muskrats were a stable of local lines. My dad, uncles, etc all trapped the big marshes for rats- both in open water and under ice. We used no lure or bait- natural feedbed and run sets took the majority of rats quickly and without fuss. Since then I trap rats as mainly incidentals, with some on purpose- a few hundred rats a year- all without any lures. Each year I always seem to end up with a few bottles of rat lure, so I use it here and there throughout the year. I have also used apples, carrots, potato slices for bait at various times. While all can and do attract rats- they are not needed and IMHO do nothing to increase your catch. The location of the rat set itself will be an attractant to every passing rat, if you choose your sets carefully. A real disadvantage of using lure is that it will attract every passing coon, so be prepared by having coon proof drowning sets ready. My advice- save your lure money for animals that respond well to lure-coon, beaver, canines, etc. The art of blind setting for water animals is becoming a lost art, and a good way to increase your skills is by blind setting for rats (bonus is to watch your mink catch increase)
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Name: Hal
Lure or bait for muskrats doesn't play the same role on my traplines as it does for say canines. Muskrats are pretty easy to find and blind set. But for those instances where the rats are hard to pinpoint, I will readily resort to bait and/or lure. For bait I like a fresh slice of apple, and I position it so the white part also acts as a visual attractor. However, as was rightly pointed out above, you will pick up some curious coons in these sets, so make sure your traps are fastened adequately when using lure and bait on muskrats.

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Coon Traps. Coon Trappers: What traps do you use for coons?

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Name: Scott Yoder
Usually I use duke 1 1/2's for cubby sets, and 220 magnum connibears for bucket sets.
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Name: Greenhorn
Mainly 1 1/2 coils, staked solidly. While I do have some instances of the coon biting their toes under the trap jaws, this seems to be an individual response of the animal. In the same trap set-up, some coon chew and some don't.
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Name: long liner
for coon traps i use in footholds mostly no.1 1/2. a few larger footholds, and a few no.1, also 220. conni. and 160 conni. and i use a lot of snares in the 3/32 size of cable.
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Name: Trapper62
I use a variety of traps ranging from the #11 DLS, #1.5 Coils to 220 Conibears, whatever the situation calls for I guess?
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Name: Justin Adams
The #1.5 coilspring and #11 double longspring I think are fine traps for coons.
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Name: dusty
#11 double jaws for water sets and 1 1/2 coils on land
but mostly snares
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Name: andrew
I use a have-a-heart trap and i designed and made my own wooden livetrap wich works better than the have-a-heart.
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Name: Dale Frank
bodygrips (220) and 11/2 / 11dj footholds. Mostly bodygrips.
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Name: Jtrapper
I like the #11 longspring better than any trap for coon, but also use some old 1 1/2 n.w. round jawed coil's. J
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Name: MARTIN GRUBER
220 Coni's in trails and baited boxes, 1 1/2 coils rigged to drowning wires at pockets.
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Name: Jack Turner Jr.
75% # 1 1/2 coilspring (land & water), 15% snares, 10% others
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Name: Cody
I use either 11 dbls's. Or 1 1/2 Coilspring. Cody
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Name: Ethan Welscher
I usually use victor #1 1/2 but if i dont have any of those on hand i use duke #1's they seem to hold the smaller coon and they work very well in water. Sometimes i use victor and duke #11 double longsprings ,or b&l 21. In water use I use victor #160, #220, and sometimes 280's.
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Name: Christian
I personally like 1.5 1.75 Coils for land and water, with a good, potent "Skunky/Meaty" Lure like Fox Hollow Gh-II, It helped me get my 42 lb raccoon.
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Name: Don
I like number 11 dbl longsprings the best. Then 1 1/2 coil springs set up on drowners. I have now foot damage with the number 11's. Only a coulpe with the 1 1/2 when not set in a drowning situation.
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Name: yung trappr
1 1/2 coilspring
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Name: Jake lawrence
#11 And 1 1/2 coilspring and longspring
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Name: MScoonskinner
i mostly use the 1½ (1.5) coilspring. but i also use # 11 double long spring and #1 double jaw coilspring. i prefer to use the coilsprings. i wish someone would make a trap in between the size of the #1 and #1.5. i guess they could call it a 1¼ (1.25) .
with the sligthly smaller jaw spread (than the 1.5) i think that would be the perfect coon trap.
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Name: Brandon
For coon, I use the Sleepy creek #2 double longspring.
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Name: Dan Albright
I use 220 conibears in trail sets leading to a food source. I also use a wide variety of coilsprings including Bridger 1.65s, Victor #1.5s, #1.75s Duke #1.5, duke #11. I only use the 1.75s and 1.65s in the water. I also use havahart cage traps in areas where pets might be a problem.
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Name: herron
1 1/2 victor coil spring.
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Name: tannehill
i use mostly 11,1 ls,1 1/2 ls, 1 cs, 1 1/2 cs.
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Name: Alaskan Man
When I am trapping the masked bandit in the lower 48 I use Sleepy Creek one and a half double coilsprings. They are the most powerfull of its size, LIGHTNING FAST, heavily constructed, center swiveled......OUTSTANDING!!!!!
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Name: trappnman
I think that you could look long and hard before finding a better all around coon trap for both land and water than the 1.5 coil. I know many 1000s of coon are taken in 220s, but I personally feel that 220s have a very high refusal rate in both buckets and trails. This is something I have discussed at length with many experienced trappers that have used 220s on snow, and the refusals are plain to see. Out of say 250 coon a year, I take some in 1.75 coyote sets, maybe a doz in 220s and the rest in 1.5s. An interesting note for those that like #11 single jaws, the single jaw 1.5 have better BMP results
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Name: ID Trapper
I currently use mostly 1 1/2 coilsprings for coons. The no. 11 is close behind. Both these traps are great on coons. The coils are used in drowning sets the 11's are used where it may not be possible to drown the coon. I feel they can't chew their foot as easily with the 11's due to the small jaws.
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Name: tao 2468
1.5 coils 220 conibears. All 1.5 coils are center swiveled off of base plate then 4inch chain and double swivle 4 more inch chain and a double swivel with 1 j hook that way it can be staked or used for a drowner. Also every 1.5 coil that I own has had music wire springs added as soon as I bought them even if new out of box. The strong springs and 3 swivels are very important on big Iowa coon.
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Name: Hal
I guess I'm not much different from everyone else. I use #1-1/2 coils and #11's. I use the #11's more on land than I do in the water, and vice versa for the #1-1/2 coils. I use a few #220's, but primarily I'm restricted by law to using them in the water. I don't snare too many coons.

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