Information, Resources, and On-Line Trapping Forum

 

Previously Discussed On Track Topics

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On Track Pg. 8
 

Topics:

Favorite Coyote Set. Canine Trappers: What's your favorite set for coyotes and how do you make it? Review This Topic

Favorite Fox Set. Canine Trappers: What's your favorite set for fox and how to you make it? Review This Topic

Getting Ready. All Trappers: What do you do in the couple of months prior to the trapping season to get ready for trapping? Review This Topic

Pre-Baiting. All Trappers: Do you pre-bait any sets or locations prior to the trapping season. Why or why not? Review This Topic

Covering Traps in Wet Weather. Land Trappers: What type of dry, or semi dry covering do you use on your traps during wet weather? Where do you obtain it? Review This Topic

Covering Traps Under Water. Water Trappers: Do you cover traps that are placed under water? If so, what do you use? Review This Topic

Mode of Transportation. All Trappers: What type of transportation to you use on your trapline. Car? Truck? Boat? Walk? Other?

Carrying Your Traps. All trappers: What do you use for carrying your traps and equipment along your trapline or to and from your sets. Bucket? Basket? Other?

Making Coon Bait. Coon Trappers: Do you make your own bait from items you obtain or buy in your local area? What do you use and/or what is your recipe? Review This Topic

Dry Land or Water Sets. Coon Trappers: what portion of your coons are taken on dry land, and what portion of your coons are taken in water sets? What are your reasons for using either kind of set? Review This Topic

Tuning Up a Trap. All Trappers: What are the minimum adjustments or modifications you make to a land trap. Or do you use your traps straight as they come from the box? Review This Topic

Trap Maintenance. All trappers: What kind of maintenance and repair do you perform on your traps at the end of the season or during the off season. What problems do you look for? Review This Topic


Replies:

Favorite Coyote Set. Canine Trappers: What's your favorite set for coyotes and how do you make it?

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Name: skipper
Mouse hole, I start out with cutting a pie shaped wedge out of the spot then take the whole area down about two or three inches in the back and one or two in the front .Just so the whole thing slopes toward the "point" where the hole is.then dig the trap bed so the power jaw is aginst the back corner bed it solid. Then I have a 1 1/2" piece of black iron pipe that is sharpened to a 45 dregree angle on the front and and has a cross piece in the top I drive this in the point of the pattern as least 6 to 8 inches . on the side of the hole I drive in a 1/4" stake this is where the sheeps wool and lure go the bait (when used goes down the big hole.
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Name: skipper
this one is simple bed a trap as perfectly flat and blended as possiable and lay a piece of burnt wood with some previously drilled holes ( at least three or more) sheeps wool in the holes w/lure the more flavors the better. the holes are placed on the bottom toward the ground. there is two through holes on either side where the wood is staked fast to the ground so the whole thing won't move the trap is about 9" back from the attractor and off to the right or left 3"
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Name: matthew
I like the standard dirt hole set. I usually put the trap a little futher back then I do for fox. I always make the dirt over the pan lower than the surrounding dirt. I usually put a foot guide in front of the hole and one to the right and left of the trap. For a foot guide on the loose jaw I like scat, i always use scat at almost every set i make. Lure it up and COYOTE the next mourning or two...
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Name: bobcat jeff
my favorite yote set is a snare near a bait pile ,I find a narrow entrance to set my snares.
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Name: Rich Buker
Dirthole set, Find backing, dirthole, bed trap 9in out and offset 2inches right. lure w/ all call on rim of hole and squirt of fox urine on backing.
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Name: Charlie Moore
a can of sardines hung in a bush (tree) with hole punched for wire in one corner and in opposite corner for drain. Trap set 8 to 10 inches back form impact point of drippings. Limbs form natural V for guidence.
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Name: waterartist
First year trapping yotes,but so far it would have to be a large dirt hole in a bank. I dig the hole at 45/60 degree angle to backing and pile the exgivated dirt just out side the hole.Then bed the trap in the middle with a V patteren. the trap goes in the middleand is the onley level spot to step.I know this goes aginst the grain to make a dog step up but it works as long as the slope is steep and has great eye appeal.
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Name: Hal
My favorite set for coyotes is a flat set, although I use a lot of dirtholes too. I make many flat sets with large chunk of wood for a visual attractor. If the set is made in bare dirt, I don't do anything to the pattern. If not, I match the pattern over the trap to the surrounding ground cover -- camouflaging the bed so to speak.


Favorite Fox Set. Canine Trappers: What's your favorite set for fox and how to you make it?

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Name: skipper
Mouse hole, I start out with cutting a pie shaped wedge out of the spot then take the whole area down about two or three inches in the back and one or two in the front .Just so the whole thing slopes toward the "point" where the hole is.then dig the trap bed so the power jaw is aginst the back corner bed it solid. Then I have a 1 1/2" piece of black iron pipe that is sharpened to a 45 dregree angle on the front and and has a cross piece in the top I drive this in the point of the pattern as least 6 to 8 inches . on the side of the hole I drive in a 1/4" stake this is where the sheeps wool and lure go the bait (when used goes down the big hole.
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Name: skipper
this one is simple bed a trap as perfectly flat and blended as possiable and lay a piece of burnt wood with some previously drilled holes ( at least three or more) sheeps wool in the holes w/lure the more flavors the better. the holes are placed on the bottom toward the ground. there is two through holes on either side where the wood is staked fast to the ground so the whole thing won't move the trap is about 9" back from the attractor and off to the right or left 3"
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Name: matthew
I like the standard dirt hole set. I usually put the trap a little futher back then I do for fox. I always make the dirt over the pan lower than the surrounding dirt. I usually put a foot guide in front of the hole and one to the right and left of the trap. For a foot guide on the loose jaw I like scat, i always use scat at almost every set i make. Lure it up and COYOTE the next mourning or two...
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Name: bobcat jeff
my favorite yote set is a snare near a bait pile ,I find a narrow entrance to set my snares.
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Name: Rich Buker
Dirthole set, Find backing, dirthole, bed trap 9in out and offset 2inches right. lure w/ all call on rim of hole and squirt of fox urine on backing.
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Name: Charlie Moore
a can of sardines hung in a bush (tree) with hole punched for wire in one corner and in opposite corner for drain. Trap set 8 to 10 inches back form impact point of drippings. Limbs form natural V for guidence.
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Name: waterartist
First year trapping yotes,but so far it would have to be a large dirt hole in a bank. I dig the hole at 45/60 degree angle to backing and pile the exgivated dirt just out side the hole.Then bed the trap in the middle with a V patteren. the trap goes in the middleand is the onley level spot to step.I know this goes aginst the grain to make a dog step up but it works as long as the slope is steep and has great eye appeal.
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Name: Hal
My favorite set for coyotes is a flat set, although I use a lot of dirtholes too. I make many flat sets with large chunk of wood for a visual attractor. If the set is made in bare dirt, I don't do anything to the pattern. If not, I match the pattern over the trap to the surrounding ground cover -- camouflaging the bed so to speak.


Getting Ready. All Trappers: What do you do in the couple of months prior to the trapping season to get ready for trapping?

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Name: Alec
First I clean my traps, once right after the season and once before. Then I make adjustments and modifications and then I dip them. After that I clean and go over my equipment and lures/baits to make sure I have enough of both. Then I clean and organize my shed and get that ready for all the fur and make sure everything is where I can get to it fast when I need it. Thats the main stuff I do and there's always more.
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Name: Skipper
tune all newly aquired traps (can't leave a convention whthout at least one), make more drags for the water line, boil and wax, get new and renue old permission, sift dry dirt, make new cable stakes ,make cable restraints.
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Name: skunkskiner
make bait order supplies adjust and treat traps
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Name: Jake Wilson
I make sure that all of my traps are first in good condition and see if they need any new parts. After all repairs are made, I dye and wax the traps. I also collect dry dirt, see if I need any new supplies and order them if needed. After that, I basically sit around impatiently waiting for the season to start.
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Name: Brad Eckerman
I am usually am busy boiling, dying, and waxing any traps that have not been done already. This is also the time that I make trap repairs and adjustments. The summer months also alow me to catch the bait that I'll use on the line. There are usually rendezvous that I'm able to pick up any needed items that will be necessary. I also check back in with the landowners that allow me to trap their property to ask about crop damage and if they have any places in particular that they have noticed while being in the fields. I have long standing good relations with these folks and they look foward to meeting with me as I do them.
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Name: Deron Mitchell
Checking traps for damage, repairing them as needed. Dying and waxing traps and most all gaining permission from landowners. I also hand draw maps of individual areas to where i'm going to set traps. And of course scouting for good areas is top on list.
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Name: Craig S.Cassel
1. Verifying that all my traps are functionally sound.
2. Make sure all snares and traps are tagged.
3. Fabricate disposable earth anchors.
4. Obtain landowner permission.
5. Peruse trapping regulations.
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Name: cjstrapping
Primarily scouting.
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Name: Ray
I get my new traps ready and make sure that all of the older ones are up to par. I also start scouting about a month before season opens. Depending on how much I have, I'll somtimes cut bamboo for water trapping
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Name: Hal
I always prepare my equipment in the spring so it is ready and waiting to go in the fall. The weeks before trapping season are spent scouting and contacting land owners.


Pre-Baiting. All Trappers: Do you pre-bait any sets or locations prior to the trapping season. Why or why not?

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Name: Alec
I do a little bit just to get them in the habit of coming by my set and to draw in more animals.
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Name: Skipper
The only places I pre-bait are my brand new ones just to find out what is there. other than that I only pre-bait some good
coon locations. But on my canine line I don't like to catch all the trash that prebaiting pulls in. I also think that the new
disturbance when set making is a good atractor and with pre-baiting that is gone.
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Name: skunkskiner
im planning on it this year never did before i put out a bait station this year already and hung a trail camera by it got
some neat coon pics
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Name: Rick B.
Yes I pre-bait for fox. I found that this is very effective for gray fox.
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Name: coon hound
I make my own bait with white perch that I catch all summer. I freeze them as I catch them . When I have 15 to 20 I make my
bait.
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Name: Craig S.Cassel
No. I would rather have critters snooping for the bait when I have a trap set in that location.
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Name: Hardy
I prebait for my predator line. Starting about a month before season, I go to my predetermined spots. (After trapping the
same area for 19 years now, I have a pretty good idea where to go.) I prebait the location. At least once a week, I go check
and see which area is visited and rebait as necessary. Even as the season progresses I continue baiting up the old and new
spots so there is a continuation of catching with no gaps as time goes on. I do not set on the bait hole, just get with in 20
yards in several directions to make my sets. This seems to cut down on my unwanted catches of undesirable animals.
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Name: cjstrapping
I do not. If sets are made at the correct locations, there's no reason to pre-bait.
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Name: VAtrapper man
I live in southern Va were hunting with dogs still exists and puts a damper on most land trapping untill deer season is out
but i do prebait coni boxes a week or to before dear season goes out. useualy just cheep dog food or jack mackeral
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Name: Hal
I personally don't prebait. But I don't see anything wrong with doing so.


Covering Traps in Wet Weather. Land Trappers: What type of dry, or semi dry covering do you use on your traps during wet weather? Where do you obtain it?

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Name: Devan AKA BlackSwampWalker
this is my first year back at it and am going with peat
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Name: dktfireman
I use waxed dirt and I make it myself.
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Name: Skipper
Dry dirt ,my land line in't that large and when I need it I usually can find it close by my set. Just knowing where to look is a aquired tallent.
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Name: jim
for best results during wet weather with a mixture of the dryest dirt possible and creek bank grasses
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Name: jim no.2
I myself like to obtain my dry dirt from nearby over turned tree roots,or from under cliff rocks.
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Name: Henry
Peat moss
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Name: mark
Peat moss and dry dirt from under bridges. Peat moss can be picked up at Home Depot or Walmart.
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Name: chancy
i used hay and it worked well
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Name: rich
sand, summer
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Name: skunkskiner
mud dry dirt if i was bright enough to collect it
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Name: Hal
If there is dry dirt available near the set, like under tree roots, in bull dozer piles, or places like that, I will use that. Otherwise, I collect dirt in the summer, sift it and dry it for use on the trapline.


Covering Traps Under Water. Water Trappers: Do you cover traps that are placed under water? If so, what do you use?

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Name: trapper kid 93
When I trap in the water I tend to move around a lot to put in the slide wire and set the trap and everything. So my point is that once I've finally set the trap and by the time Im all done the mud has settled down over the trap. And if its not covered enough I lightly cover it with a bit of mud.
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Name: Devan AKA BlackSwampWalker
brown paper towel.
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Name: dktfireman
no
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Name: skipper
On my water line The only time I use covering is when I think theft is a option or when I suspect I might have a silting in problem. In that instance I use automive shop towels(the blue variety) I put a slit in the center and then wrap the trap in the towel. after bedding then I wave my hand in the water to stir up the silt and it settels on the towel making it almost invisable.
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Name: wicooner
Yes, not a lot but just a few leaves to break up the trap.
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Name: jim no.2
I have tryed many coverings for underwater sets but none seem to work well, I have also realized for raccoons underwater covering isn't really nessesary.
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Name: Mark
I don't cover my traps that are under water. I just twist them a little to bed them some in the sand to keep the coon from flipping it over.
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Name: rich shea
leaves, silt
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Name: Jake Wilson
I never cover traps that are placed under water. I don't see any point to doing so.
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Name: skunkskiner
its not nessasary but sometimes i use liquid mud or wet leaves
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Name: Hal
I don't cover traps that I set under water.


Mode of Transportation. All Trappers: What type of transportation to you use on your trapline. Car? Truck? Boat? Walk? Other?

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Name: seg_sarge
Truck and boat (canoe), have to walk part of it too
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Name: Devan Gillmor
my old F150 and canoe an old 17' grumman cargo canoe
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Name: skipper
I check in the morning before work so I use what I drive all the time Dodge 2500 diesel. when cable and water trapping after arrival I walk about 2 miles in and out.
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Name: JD
Truck,4wheeler,walk.
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Name: trapper kid 93
I cant drive yet so I have someone drive me to my trapline. But once I get there I walk since I cross the creeks often to check traps on both side so having a four-wheeler would just be a hassle.
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Name: Creekwalker
Until this season, I drove a Dodge Caravan. It did well in the snow, and it didn't scream "trapper." The sliding side doors made it pretty handy for getting equipment and critters in and out at the side of the road. But the van had to go so this year it's a Toyota truck. I have several stops that require a good bit of walking, and this is the part of running the line I look forward to the most.
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Name: Tim Sleeth
Mostly truck and 4-wheeler. but i'm picking up a used canoe for back water and river this year
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Name: Brian
truck, boat, and walk.
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Name: brian
truck
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Name: Josh
My father and I run a trapline in the mountains of Vermont so we ended up utilizing the use of a John Deer Gator, It fits all the equipment and in the wet/snowy conditions it gets us up and down the ridges just fine. My only suggestion is to purchase a plastic tub for the back to put the catch in so their odor doesn't contaminate the equipment.
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Name: FLSH ETR
I'll take my truck down the road from the shack to a trail I use, then walk the rest of the line. Or walk out of the shack and keep walking. Either way, walking consists of the majority of modes of transportation.
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Name: Steven Corvin
Boat and 4 wheeler
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Name: jsevering
initial set up, first two days out of partners pick up, loop fill ins, line rotation and checks mostly out of a four cylinder jeep...jim

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Name: gary dickerman
truck, 4-wheeler, walk
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Name: dnew
4x4 truck, an A.T.V., 12 ft. flatbottom boat and walk more than I want to.


Carrying Your Traps. All trappers: What do you use for carrying your traps and equipment along your trapline or to and from your sets. Bucket? Basket? Other?

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Name: seg_sarge
Email: adseg_sgt1028@yahoo.com
Basket on the water line, otherwise 5 gal. bucket
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Name: Devan Gillmor
Buckets
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Name: JD
I took a 30 gallon barrel and cut about 1/3 off of it off. Put straps on it and cut a handle in it. Looks very similar to Bob Wendts'.
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Name: trapper kid 93
I use a Fiber Tuff Packbasket. I got it from this website and it works great. I prefer packbaskets over a backpack or bucket because you can carry it on your back and when your done at a set you dont always have to keep closing the zipper. It's nice and wide open and big so it's easy to get stuff out of it.
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Name: Creekwalker
I normally use a large toolbag with a shoulder strap. Less room than a packbasket, but easier to get to and less conspicuous.
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Name: Tim Sleeth
I built a plywood box for the rack of my 4-wheeler and a bucket when not close to it.
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Name: Steven Corvin
5 gallon bucket
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Name: jsevering
generally use a light wieght, heavy duty canvas remake dirt bag to carry gear after initial setting.... bigger canvas tool bag with pockets and extras for initial setting....water trapping, depending what and where im trapping, a pack basket or just my hands....jim
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Name: dnew
Large bodygrips by hand, large footholds in the sack used to drown, usualy a bucket for smaller traps.
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Name: redsnow
I have a wooden "tool box", it's about 4' X 16" X 19" X 23" hinged, angled top/lid. If you don't waste any lumber you can make it with one 4' X 8' sheet of plywood, and a 2 X 4. That's what I carry on my truck, it'll hold a bunch of stuff, traps/tools. I carry metal stakes in a 5-gallon bucket, wired to the corner of the truck bed. I have a 2 gallon bucket I use while dirt trapping, plenty of room for 2 or 3 traps, hammer, shovel, sifter, dry dirt, pan covers, etc. If water trapping, I try to scout good, and just carry what I need in my hands, while making the sets.
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Name: lynxcat
If not on the 4 wheeler, I have a bucket for lures, and the traps are pretty much just carried over my shoulder. Distances are NOT that far to become an issue.


Making Coon Bait. Coon Trappers: Do you make your own bait from items you obtain or buy in your local area? What do you use and/or what is your recipe?

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Name: fox fanatic
This is the recipe that i use. buy a cheap bag of dog chow, small kibbel type. mix about 1 gallon dog food with a jar of strawberry jam. add jam till dog food is completly saturated. this is a very sweet bait and has produced alot of coons for me.
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Name: Coonchaser
I use leftover Gizzard shad (extra bait from my trotline ventures in the spring/summer). They are very easy to obtain with a cast net,and they usually die as soon as they get in the net(or shortly therafter). So instead of leaving them for waste I simply pack them into a jar and make oil out of them, or fill a ziplock bag and put water over them and freeze them for next trapping season.
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Name: skipper
my absolute favoriate coon bait is the fall out from the local seafood restruant.(crab shuckings, shrimp shells, table waste, ect.) I also make a paste out of raisans, peanutbutter, bannas, and cherry extract. and load this into an old calking gun cartrage. makes a great dispencer.
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Name: Charles Sanders
I tried mixing Jack Mackeral with peanut butter this year and it worked very well. It has a strong smell to draw them in, and the peanut butter helps it stick to the backs of the pockets or bait holders.
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Name: Caleb Zapor
Get a sixteen ounce flip top bottal an fill it with 1 ounce of honey 1 ounce of anise shake the bottal to mix up honey and anise. Now get some shellfish oil or fish oil and fill the rest of the bottal. shake it up before each use to get all the mixture. My favorit set with this lure is in a wooded ditch where coon or mink are using the colverts. Make a pocket set put some of the lure on the outside of the hole. Then rub it in with your hands and put some fish in the back of the hole.
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Name: Lost trapper
We spear suckers and carp. WE gut them and save off the hearts and livers add a little cheap vegetable oil and put them in a food proccessor then liquify. We smear it around pockets and on crossing logs. The fish we split up some get frozen some salted and ground to paste. WE also collect egg shells and fresh water mussel shells we find on the banks of ponds and streams. Nothing fancy but it woks and its cheap.
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Name: Mark Neugebauer
Put whole trout in a blender and then can the trout paste.
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Name: trapper kid 93
I do both. I buy grinded up salmon mixed with shellfish oil from my furbuyer and it works great for everything but mainly coons and mink.
I buy my commercial lures from online sites such as Sullivan's Line which also work great.
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Name: Jacob Johnston
What I do is set a minnow trap in the summer(you can buy them in outdoor catalogs and Walmart) and freeze the minnows till winter. i usually soak them in salmon oil to make it have a farther calling reach. and are usually put in a pocket set or cubby. Make sure they arent frozen when used. You can chop em up if you want to.
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Name: Devan Gillmor
i have already started collecting for this coming season i gut and chunk trash fish,(carp, sheep-head, gar,...) then freeze, for bait. for attractant, i'm going to start sun rendering for juice and oil.


Dry Land or Water Sets. Coon Trappers: what portion of your coons are taken on dry land, and what portion of your coons are taken in water sets? What are your reasons for using either kind of set?

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Name: Coonchaser
I prefer water sets over land sets simply because I have alot of small streams, creeks, and lakes in my area. The farms around here mostly produce hay and cattle, so there are not many row crop fields to be found.
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Name: skipper
on my water line about 50/50 I set the banks as heavy as I set the water I realize that all the critters running the banks are not going to come down to the water. Also when High water comes I will still be catching fur. On my fox coon line the ratio is about 75% dry and 25% in the drink just bu the nature of the line.
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Name: Charles Sanders
About 50/50 for me. I catch alot of coons in transit from place to place in blind sets. Most of these are dryland. When I use a baited set I generally put it close to the water, preferably on a drowner.
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Name: Caleb Zapor
Water and land sets for coon are the same and diffrent if you want to be a good trapper you need to learn coon habits. If you learn coon habits you can find the hottest locations to set. Over the years I have devolped a system that uses map and note books. the notebooks are for writing down the number of catches that you get at a certain coon hot spot. After you use a notebook for a certain county you can see the best spots and the only set there and then you will have a top notch trapping area that trappers will die for. The maps or plat books are for finding the hot locations. this is what has made me so sussecful in my trapping. My last words to the young trappers is to first understand the animals that you are after. GOOD LUCK TRAPPING
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Name: trapper kid 93
It's probably 50/50 because in the winter I move to a new spot where the coon are over populated and water is frozen so water trapping isn't possible and I tend to get bigger bore coons on land than in the water. In the beginning of the season I water trap because it's easy and works out since they're already dead and I catch more than just coons.
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Name: Ric
Early in the season 90% of sets targeting raccoon will be dry. Meaning away from the water not just on the bank. This eliminates a large percentage of young of the year for me. Later on I will move back to the water. Ground conditions have usually become muddy by then and water sets are easier to keep operational and those Raccoon that were 8-10 lb at the start of the season will be in the 12-14 pound range
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Name: Devan Gillmor
this will be my first season back at it so will go with what i know, water sets.


Tuning Up a Trap. All Trappers: What are the minimum adjustments or modifications you make to a land trap. Or do you use your traps straight as they come from the box?

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Name: ingvalsone
for the fully modified bridger's (personal prefence) i would at least file down the dog because there usally to long, rig for double staking and adjust pan tension
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Name: skipper
Some of the traps I have seen won't even set out of the box. I love tinkering but probally wouldn't have to do all I do but the absoulute minimum I would do is to take out the back and forth travel out of the dog(by closing up the eye) and square up the dog/pan engaugement and level the pan. If I did this I could probally sleep after setting.
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Name: cwest
shorten the travel of the pan, 2#'s tension on pan, Base plate and lamination, rigged 3 swivels, in-line spring,chain and super stake.
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Name: Paul of Harrisburg
Minimum: File to "night Latch" the firing system.
Most times I also get the pan to sit level, set pan tension to match target species and drop with a smooth motion. I also add more swivels and center mount the chain on the bottom of the trap frame.
I like to have very little "pan drop" needed to fire the trap.
When I finish each trap tuning/modification, I fire it and then add my ID tag.
By the way,if you buy a few different brands of trap to try, you will learn alot about a different trap brands while performing these mods/tunings, and you will discover which you like best for your type of trapping situations.
In my opinion, there's alot of satisfaction in store for you when you know that each and every trap you lay in the ground, is set up to fire just right, and when the target critter takes that final step on the pan, you have left very little to "chance".
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Name: Rick B
I file the dog and make pan tension adjustments thanks to your trap tester. Also, I make chain adjustments by adding swivels and shortening the chain.
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Name: seg_sgt1
Night latch for minimum pan drop, adjust for 4 lbs pan tension, 9 inches of straight link chain w/three swivels, 18 inch cable stake
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Name: trapper kid 93
For land traps I always have a shock spring and 1-2 swivels in the chain and are generally all off-set or double jaw s*******************************************************************
Name: Daniel
i tune all traps so my pan is as level as possible. on predator traps i file a night latch, center swivel, square off dog and put extra swivels in chain and sometimes heavier chain.
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Name: wilderness46
It depends on what size trap and what animal I am targeting. On K9 traps I cut factory chain off. I crimp on a cold shut in the middle, on bottom part off frame. I used to weld a base plate w/ a D-ring on but I soon realized it's way to much work and completly unecessary for some traps (And I am certified welder). Then I like 2 links of #2 chain then swivel,6in. peice of chain, then rivit, swivel, and lap link. As for I pinch pan post. So there is no slop. Replace screw w/ #10 flat tip. I will bend pan so it is flat (they never are).I file a night latch in.1/16in. trigger. I WANT NO PAN TENSION. only what is provided by power jaw w/ dog to pan. I like a low pan ,just below jaws. I will 4 coil it .then some minor filing. other critters things might be different.
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Name: corley trawick
Most of the time traps from the box are not even close to being adjusted. SO I check each one carefully an make adjustments as reqired.
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Name: Tony Fitz
The absolute minimum is square the dog and notch. To go further is a box swivel at the 3rd chain link from the trap, and level the pan.
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Name: Lucas
Center d-ring on baseplate, level pan,4 swivel points in chain, with pan tension and night latch.
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Name: Rabbitt
Add a double stake swivel and an inline swivel
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Name: COONCHASER
Upon purchase, the first task is to relocate the chain to the bottom of the trap frame. Then i will roughly check the pan tension and position and adjust accordingly. Next i will allow traps to rust for dying purposes. Then traps will be dyed and waxed. Finally pan tension will be checked again, and adjusted if needed. Now the equipment is ready for the line.
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Name: varmintshooter
Center base chain, pan adjustment to 2 pounds for fox 4 for coyote. Inline shock spring (JC Connors) Off Set with lamation inside and out, and jaw tips get a welded bead or bent to an upward position.
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Name: tuff
Night latch, pan tension, move chain to center of trap.
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Name: Foxtrapper
The first thing you need to check is that it runs smooth with no rust er nothin on it, the pan is at the right tension, and it is the right size for the animal you are targeting.
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Name: jeff
i believe a base plat, more swivels and the jaws should be lamated and maby four coiling it
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Name: Eric
I use Bridger #1.65 traps and a few thing I like to do to my traps are tighten the dog I also change the springs to Springs from a Bridger # 2 or # 3 trap and I try to take all the slop out of the pan that I can then my traps are ready to be dyed and waxed.
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Name: Lost trapper
It depends on the trap and the target animal. Minimums for me are to adjust chain legth and add at least one swivel. i do like the night latch set up on the pan, but I modify that by filing the end of the dog on the bottom. With less steal at the contact piont I find the trap fires just a fraction of a second faster. Down side is I replace dogs every couple years.
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Name: mike
if i could only make one modification or adjustment, it would be to add swivels to the trap chain. but i do not use a trap that hasnt been modified, cleaned and if not dyed, at least waxed.
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Name: poorvalley
i all ways bend the dog end to set the pan level and losen the pan as needed
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Name: Charles Sanders
I like to add an extra swivel in the middle of the chain, and to comply with regs here I have to shorten all my foothold trap chains to 8" or less. I tried Formula One trap dip this year and really liked it. Other than that I use them straight out of the box.
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Name: trappintime
Victor #3 softcatch that are used for canines. I take the pan off and cut the pan down in size and then I file the notch on the pan back at an angle so that I can set the trap and know that it has a hair trigger. I also add a way of double staking to the chain and add another swivel.
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Name: Dennis Eagle
For Victor 1.75 I center swivel; bend jaw tips upward; tighten pan and adjust pan height; file dog end and pan notch; I have about 80 traps with four links of twin loop ending with split ring (for grapple rigs) and about 35 with the same twin loop ending with double stake swivel for staked sets.
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Name: jsevering
minimum tuning for me would be adding a box swivel mid chain, night latching along with twinking, squeezing the dogs loop into a more oval than round shape....jim
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Name: dale
no straight from the box
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Name: Hal
First tune up the firing system. I remove the pan bolt and the pan. I file down the sides of the pan shank where it goes between the ears of the post to smooth it up. I also file inside the pan post to remove any rough spots. Then I put the pan back inside the post, and squeeze the post with vice grips square up the post against the sides of the pan. I add a nightlatch to the pan. I square up the end of the dog and close down the loop at the end of the cross frame. I reassemble the pan and level it with the dog engaged. If the chain is not centered on the bottom of the trap, I move it there. If the trap does not have at least four swiveling points in the chain, I add an additional swivel mid way. These are the minimum adjustments.

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Trap Maintenance. All trappers: What kind of maintenance and repair do you perform on your traps at the end of the season or during the off season. What problems do you look for?

Name: skipper
On my # 11's (pinch pans) I inspect the closing on the bottom of the pan and if opened or damaged I will put a spot weld on the tip. Level all pans check pan notches inspect all rivets on the swivels. then boil (clean) dye and wax this is all footholds.
on my bodygrip traps I inspect all pivot rivets all trigger fastening bolts or rivets and reloop all my mink triggers on the ones that need replacing I flatten the ends of the trigger wires with a hammer, then drill a hole in the flat spot and add the wire loop. then in a pan with about 1/2 inch wax in I wax the sides of the traps with the rivets . my bodygrips have the chain removed so I add new wire or cable if needed
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Name: cwest
Clean and inspect trap and fastener. look for stretched openings in swivels or J-hooks. make sure pan sets level in trap. inspect jaw hinges and springs. file dogs to a sharp bevel. check travel. set tension. dye and wax. hang in store room until next season.
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Name: Paul of Harrisburg
I look at the swivel system, anchor system, ID Tag, and all parts of the trap. I set each, assure the pan sits as level as possible with the jaws, check for a straight dog, and that the night latch still works effectively. Then I boil and wax before storing for the off season.
If there are any repairs needed, I put it aside, and write it down on a list. After going through all the traps, I aquire the needed components and replace them, tune each trap, and put out to ruct the new parts before boiling and waxing.
I store all my traps in a dry location in barrels with lids.
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Name: seg_sgt1
A good cleaning then check for broken parts/weak springs. Springs or parts get replaced and traps dyed/waxed, adjustments are made such as pan tension and drowning cables added on water traps. Lastly, stored in plastic airtight containers.
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Name: Daniel
asap after season i wash all dirt and blood off of them and then store in water tight containers. for pre-season prep i power wash all of them then let dry. next i tune them, dye them and wax them. then clean was from pan notches before storing them in air tight containers.
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Name: Tony Fitz
Check for rust and free function. Make sure the trap when set is square and level, check chain integrity, then boil, dye and re-wax. Put away in clean 5 gal buckets
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Name: Lost trapper
I take them to the car wash and hose them down hard with lots of soap, then go home adjust them to working order and boil um up. *******************************************************************
Name: Charles Sanders
I clean my traps by boiling with some dishwasher detergent and then redipping in Formula One. Before that I try to add any hardware I'm gonna add that year so it'll all be cleaned and dipped as well. I look for loose jaws, loss of spring tension, bent pans, and other trap abnormalities.
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Name: trappintime
Victor #3 softcatch traps. First I visualy check the trap for any bending or cracking. Then check all J hooks or other connecting devices to make sure they will not let go. Check all shock springs so that they operate properly. I put the trap in a vice by the base plate and set trap, then spring the trap checking for smooth operation. Replace softcatch rubber pads as needed.
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Name: rich shea
straighten pans and dogs check for level and pan tension, set and fire all foothold traps, re-dip
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Name: Dennis Eagle
For land traps: Grapple rigs-I separate grapple; extension chain; and trap. I bundle chain, grapples, traps in lots of 4-6 and hang on chain prior to cleaning. I bundle double staked rigged traps same way. #11 water traps same way. I remove old wire from all conibears and also hang them. All these traps are hung by wire on long length of 2/0 chain I string between three trees in the backyard.
After this I set down, as time permits, and look over each trap and remove vegetation, dirt, crud, using a wire brush when necessary. I set each trap to see if it needs adjustment, also testing the springs. Weak springed traps are set aside until all traps have been gone through, then I order new springs for these. After this I boil the traps in a large pot of water, with liquid draino added, using a fish cooking rig and butane for heat. After the traps low boil for about a half hour I insert a water hose and run water into the pot until the water runs over the pot and carries the crud with it. I then remove the traps and rehang them on my 2/0 chain "clothesline". When all the traps are ready (footholds are stained and waxed) I mix some logwood extract in the large pot with fresh water and then boil all the traps in it, rehanging them on the clothesline as I go. Next I set a large pot of wax on the cooker and then dip all the traps. After dipping I rehang them on the clothesline, then shortly after I put all them in 30 gallon plastic barrels with lids and lockrings, to store until just prior to next season.
Conibears are done the same as far as cleanup and removal of old wire. All triggers that need replacing are done at this time. Instead of staining and wax I dip them in black trap dip. I stack them in my shed on shelves until the next season.
A couple weeks prior to opening of trap season I spend a day removing all traps from storage and rehanging them on my 2/0 chain "clothesline" to air out in the open air.
The main problems I have are keeping strong springs on all land traps, and making sure each trap is adjusted correctly when stored. Time is too short to have to adjust traps when starting to set at the start of another season.
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Name: jsevering
i usally check the quick link at the end of the chain, look for excess wear on the swivels or swivel body, j hook wear at the frame if the trap isnt baseplated, spring strength, make sure nothing is out of line to bind the trap up where its a pain to set or slows the traps action... hit the night latch and twink the dog again if needed,then put a nail or twig between the jaws or at the lug if offset for the dye and waxing....jim
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Name: Hal
As soon as I bring traps in off the line, I wash the heavy mud an dirt off them if needed. Then I inspect each trap for broken, missing, or bent parts and straighten, replace, or repair. I inspect the firing system on all traps, and touch them up with a file where necessary. I also inspect each trap to see that my name tag is still there. I try to have all my trap maintenance done and my traps waxed or dipped and hung for storage by late spring.

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