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(Posted for March-April 2012)
MINK IN YOUR POCKET
By Hal Sullivan
(This article first appeared in Fur-Fish-Game October 1994)
This section of the creek was deep. I had to stay close to the bank, to
keep from getting in over my waders, but I could see my prize floating tail
up the in clear water. The brown fuzzy tail was unmistakable. The water was
too deep for me to reach down and get the mink, so I had to pull the
slide-wire stake to retrieve the trap. I removed the mink, reinserted the
anchor stake and placed the trap back in front of the pocket.
It is no secret
that pocket sets are effective for mink. But there does seem to be some
mystery as to why certain trappers are more successful than others at
catching mink in pocket sets. There was a time when my own success rate for
catching mink in pockets was very hit-and-miss. Today, when I construct a
pocket set for mink, I fully expect to catch one, if mother nature provides
me with the chance.
Like most
trappers, my introduction to the pocket set was in trapping coon. I gained
some proficiency at this. And I did on rare occasion, snag a mink. I was
able to catch mink fairly well in blind sets, and the combination of mink in
blind sets and coon in pocket sets was hard to beat in the late seventy's.
However, as I began to focus more attention on mink I began to wonder why my
pocket sets did not produce. Why wouldn't it work for mink? It was a
perfectly good coon set.
Ultimately, this
is what proved to be the problem. I was trying to catch mink in a coon set.
Although the basic construction is the same, there are some different
techniques in constructing a pocket set for coon and a pocket set for mink.
And, at risk of over stating the obvious, you will catch more mink if you
make mink sets.
Failure to
consider the small size and body shape of the mink probably contributes more
to the lack of success in mink trapping, than all other factors combined.
Mink are one of our smallest furbearers. An adult male might weigh three
pounds, with juveniles and females considerably smaller. This is the
approximate body weight of an average muskrat. However, the length of a
mink's body is almost twice that of a muskrat's. They are long and lean.
A mink can
readily crawl through a hole no more than three inches in diameter. That's
the size of an average coffee cup. Its body is not much more than two inches
wide, and its feet are placed little more than an inch apart. A mink can
easily walk on a ledge that is no more than an inch or two wide.
In talking about
a pocket set, you must also consider the mink's propensity for going around
a corner like a snake. In investigating a pocket, a mink usually approaches
the hole from the side along the bank. Reaching the opening, the mink will
simply snake its long slender body around the edge of the hole and enter if
it wishes. A hole no bigger than six inches allows plenty of room for a mink
to enter and turn around. Mink often do this and exit the pocket along the
opposite side, sharply turning the corner to continue down the bank. Not all
mink will enter a pocket. Some will simply pass by the mouth of the pocket,
look in and keep on going.
Now, look at a
pocket set targeted for coon. Just for sake of example, let us say the hole
is six inches across, a No. 1 1/2 round-jaw coilspring with jaw spread of
five inches is the trap, and the pan of the trap is located three inches
outside the pocket under one inch of water. This hole might actually be a
little small, and the trap placement might be a little close for coon, but
even at this, consider what will happen if a mink encounters the set.
With this
placement, there will be a gap of approximately four inches between the pan
and the sides of the pocket. That's plenty of clearance for a mink as it
turns the corner. Or, a mink may walk across the opening of the hole and
completely miss the pan of the trap set three inches farther away. Pocket
sets targeted for coon are visited by mink more often than you realize.
To catch mink effectively in pocket sets, you have to get the mink to step
on the pan of the trap. Again, this is obvious, but not quite as easy as you
might think.
The first
modification in changing from coon pockets to mink pockets is to reduce the
size of the hole. You can dig a mink pocket with a smaller trowel or you can
dig the pocket with a regular tile spade then reduce the opening of the
pocket by squeezing down the mud at the mouth of the hole. You can also
narrow down the mouth of a pocket by plastering it with mud and sticks. The
mouth of the pocket should be just slightly larger than the jaw spread of
the trap.
The trap itself, is then tucked slightly less than halfway into the mouth of
the pocket, with the jaws almost touching the walls and the pan just outside
the mouth of the pocket.
It might seem
extreme to have the hole so small and the trap fit so tightly, but again
consider the size of the mink. Sticking with the previous example, consider
the five-inch coilspring equipped with a two-inch pan, and a mink equipped
with a two-inch body. With the trap set tight into the hole, the distance
between the edge of the pan and the jaw is about one and one-half inches. If
we confine the two-inch mink to this area we are likely to catch it.
Now, let's say we
use the same trap placement, but with a hole that is a little bit larger
than the trap and allows for a half-inch of clearance between the wall and
the jaw. Now, the mink has a two inch slot to get by the pan. Again, because
mink are such extremely small critters they can and will climb around on a
trap as if it were just another piece of debris. This is a good point to
remember when you are bedding the trap. It is possible that a mink could
stand with one foot perched on the jaw of the trap, while it steps between
the jaw and the trap pan with its other foot. Mink trappers often note
animals that were caught very high on the leg. It is likely that these mink
had already stepped between the jaw and the pan of the trap, and
inadvertently fired the trap when they bumped the pan with an upper portion
of their leg or their body.
Keeping the hole
small to fit the trap will keep mink from getting around the trap and into
the hole, and positioning the trap pan just outside the hole will take most
mink just passing by. I've used the example of the No. 1 1/2 coil, but any
No. 1 or No. 1 1/2 trap in good shape will hold mink. This will help you get
on the right track with mink pockets, but there is more.
Mink are
surprisingly adept at staying on the bank. They are in fact land animals. If
a pocket is made in a sloping bank and has a low sloping mouth, a mink is
likely to approach the pocket from the bank, and crawl down the side to
investigate. Even if the bank is fairly steep, a mink may still be able to
hang on with its claws.
One way to remedy
this situation is to shave the bank off vertically for a foot or two on
either side of the hole. This will force the mink down into the water and
across the trap. Another method is to improvise a vertical archway at the
mouth of the pocket using stones, sticks, bark, mud or any other handy
debris. However, there are times when a mink will actually crawl on top of
the archway and look in from the top.
I almost always
utilize a slide-wire submergence system at a pocket set for mink. It is the
fastest, surest, and most humane way to dispatch the critter. And, bottom
line, dead mink don't get out of my traps. On more than one occasion, in
retrieving a mink from a slide wire system, a slight tug to straighten out
the trap chain was all that it took to pull the mink from the trap. That's
how lightly they were caught, and how efficiently the slide wire did its
job.
I also use the
slide wire because it saves the pocket from destruction. Although targeting
a pocket set for mink will reduce the potential for taking coon, it will not
eliminate it. Although sixteen gauge wire is sufficient for mink, I rig all
my sets with fourteen gauge to allow for incidental coon. I also make sure
that the stakes are sufficient for holding coon. This arrangement will
quickly put down any coon that may get in the set and prevent its trashing
out a good mink pocket.
Coon can be a
particular problem at baited and lured pockets. Mink will investigate
unbaited and unlured pockets out of simple curiosity especially if the
pocket is directly in its path. However, bait and lure can be helpful in
catching mink. Fresh fish, and fresh muskrat are good baits for mink. Of the
two, I prefer the muskrat. Processed fish oil (the fresh smelling kind) can
also be substituted for bait at a mink pocket.
Mink pockets seem to function better if they are fairly deep so they tend to
hide the bait from the mink, 18 to 24 inches is preferred.
The bait should be placed in the extreme back end of the pocket, above the
water level and camouflaged with grass or leaves. In the case of fish oil,
it can be squirted on a handful of grass or leaves which are then shoved
into the back of the hole. Although I am not fanatical about keeping the
bait absolutely fresh, I do replace it if I note a foul odor.
Lure can also be
effective in attracting a mink to investigate a pocket. Bear in mind that
mink are not overly responsive to lure. Some consider the mink to have a
poor nose, but setting as low to the ground as it does, a lot of things just
go over its head. Lure will not draw mink over long distances and will not
substitute for poorly located pockets. However, within a limited range, a
good lure can induce a mink to investigate the smell, or induce the mink to
further investigate a pocket it has located by sight.
A quick and easy
way to apply lure in a mink pocket is with a cotton swab. Any cheap brand
will do. Stick one end of the swab in the lure bottle to pick up some lure.
Then, holding the swab in the middle, reach into the pocket and spear the
clean end into the roof of the pocket. If the lure gets dried out, or floods
over, replace it.
One big problem
in trapping mink in pocket sets is water fluctuation. Pockets sets for mink,
like any other set for mink, must be maintained over a long period of time
to allow for the mink's long travel schedule. Consequently, they are subject
to periodic flooding.
But don't give up
on the sets, and don't ignore them. If the traps go six-feet under
overnight, there's nothing you can do. But as soon as you can reach the
traps, get them back in service, even if the pocket is still flooded. During
high water, some small fish, particularly bullheads, will seek to escape the
current by taking refuge in holes in the bank -- just like your pocket set.
Mink will often hunt the rising and falling water diving into these bank
holes to catch the fish. You do still have a chance of catching a mink, even
though your lure, bait, and hole might be completely under water.
As mentioned,
coons can be a problem at a mink pocket, but the trap placement will help
you avoid them. However, this set will take almost every muskrat that comes
along. They don't seem to be deterred by the odor of one of their dead
comrades, or the lure odor of one of their major enemies at all. If you are
trying to establish a mink pocket where there are a number of muskrats
present, it could be to your benefit to slap in a couple of quick muskrat
sets to thin the population more rapidly.
There is no
question that the pocket set is effective in taking mink. The real question
is whether or not the pocket set is made to take mink. In constructing the
set, considering the animal's small size and its corner hugging habits will
go a long way in providing the right answer. Make the mink go over the trap.
Yes, you may have to contend with an occasional coon, and a few muskrats,
but a good slide wire system should leave your set intact until the mink
gets its turn. When your patience is finally rewarded, you'll have a mink in
your pocket, and a smile on your face.
###
(Posted for January - February 2012)
GETTING YOUR KNIFE STONED
By Hal Sullivan
(This article first appeared in Trapper and
Predator Caller April 1995)
The average
citizen in today's society has little or no appreciation for a sharp knife.
I fondly remember my father being asked to slice a canned ham and politely
refusing to do so when he found that the host's sharpest carving knife
wouldn't touch it. Of all the people I know, sportsmen are the ones most
likely to have a sharp knife on hand. And of that group, I would say that
trappers are most likely to recognize the need for a sharp knife.
Pelting an animal
is not exactly a precision operation, but it must be done with some care.
You can't just hack away at a pelt with a dull knife and expect good
results. A sharp knife makes this work faster, easier, and usually results
in a better looking pelt. Knives naturally get dull with use, but this will
be of little consequence if you are prepared to bring back the edge by
resharpening it.
There have been a
number of new sharpening tools introduced in the last ten or twenty years.
Predominant among these are the ceramic sticks and the hard "carbide" type
sharpeners that are drawn down the length of the blade while the V-shaped
groove cuts a new edge. These tools do work okay for sharpening a knife.
Personally, I don't think they give the best edge, but they are certainly
preferable to having nothing at all with which to sharpen a knife.
My preference for
sharpening knives, is a bench stone. These stones come in different sizes
although they are all rectangular shaped. There are also many different
grades of these stones separated as to their abrasive qualities, and as to
the general quality of the stone itself. If you are looking for a bench
stone, you can generally gauge its quality by its price.
The traditional
bench stones are made of blocks of abrasive material. The average stone is
about three-quarters of an inch thick and two inches by five or six inches
is a standard size. Combination stones are available that have a coarse grit
on one side, for working on extremely dull knives, and a fine grit on the
other side, which will see the most use. If you are selecting a single grit
stone, get one with a medium fine or a fine grit.
Before you can successfully use a traditional bench stone, you should have
some idea of how they work. Like a file or a grinding stone, a bench stone
cuts away at the metal through abrasion, or scraping away at the surface of
the metal. But unlike a file or grinding wheel, a bench stone is not
designed to work dry. On a bench stone oil, or sometimes water, is applied
to the surface of the stone. As you drag your knife across the stone, the
abrasive materials are scraped up and mixed with the oil to make a grinding
compound. This abrasive slurry is a major factor in getting continued good
results sharpening on a bench stone.
If you sharpen on
a dry stone, you will pack the pours of the stone full of worn out
abrasives, and soon the stone will plug up and not cut properly. The liquid
holds these worn out abrasives in suspension, and they can be removed from
the surface of the stone to expose new, fresh abrasives. One hint I would
offer, is to daub off the stone with a clean rag or paper towel after each
session of use. Even an oiled stone can get plugged up if the old abrasives
are not removed periodically, or don't run off the side with the excess oil.
For the last few
years, I have been using a new type of "stone" manufactured by Diamond
Machine Technology. Although it has the same shape as a traditional bench
stone, it is not a stone at all, in fact, the body is made from a block of
plastic! The cutting surface on the stone consists of steel plate covered
with nickel and impregnated with diamond dust. In case you didn't know,
diamond is one of the hardest materials on earth.
This thing
sharpens like crazy. There are other flat diamond sharpeners on the market,
but this one has a unique surface. The plate has a polka-dot pattern of
holes in it. These holes catch the metal particles that are scraped off the
knife, and help keep the cutting surface clean.
Since it doesn't
have any pours, you can even use it dry, although I do find a little water
splashed on the surface helps it cut better. It can get gummed up with crud
and metal particles after a while, but that's easy to remedy. I just take it
to the sink and scrub it up with soap and water. Since it all plastic and
nickeled steel, you can't hurt it.
As for the
abrasive surface itself, after several years of use, I can determine no wear
whatsoever, the hone cuts as good as when it was new. Diamond is tough
stuff. Traditional stones show some cupping on the surface after a period of
time, but with a plate of steel, and a diamond surface, it can't happen
here.
There is one
mitigating factor. These hones are priced in the $35 to $40 range. That's a
lot for a sharpening stone. However, it will outperform and outlast a
traditional stone hands down. Consider it a lifetime investment. These
stones come graded as extra fine, fine, coarse, and extra coarse. Despite
its designation, get the coarse model. The finer grades are more for
finishing up the edges on an already sharp knife.
Some folks
believe there is no wrong way to hone a knife, as long as it comes out sharp
when you're done with it. It is true that having any kind of a sharp knife
is better than having a dull one, but how you sharpen your knife has an
influence on how good an edge you will get, and how long it will last.
The angle at
which you hold your knife to the stone will determine what kind of edge you
get. The proper angle for most knives is about fifteen degrees. If you hold
your knife flatter than this, you will get a very fine "razor" edge. This
edge may be very sharp, but because it is so thin, it will dull rapidly and
may be subject to nicks and chips in the weakened metal. Going the other
way, holding the knife more straight up, will result in a flat heavy edge
that will not get exceedingly sharp. However, such an edge will hold up a
long time and, I put this kind of semi-sharp but tough edge on knives I use
for rough service.
Another thing
that will have an influence on your finished edge is the direction that you
take the knife across the stone. If you rub your knife across the stone with
the back of the blade leading and the sharp edge dragging behind, you are
going backwards. With this type of stroke, you will roll a micro-fine wire
edge of metal from the underside of the blade, and it curls around the edge
to the upper side. When you turn the knife over, this wire edge curls back,
eventually it breaks off leaving a rather jagged edge, although this may not
be apparent to the human eye.
While it may not
seem quite logical to run the sharp edge of your knife forward on the stone;
that is exactly how you should do it. This way, the abrasives strike the
dull edge first, and your stroke pushes the metal back towards the heavy
part of the blade. You will remove less metal from the blade, and the edge
will be smooth and clean with no wires or burs to break off and dull the
knife.
Start with the
hilt of the knife at one end of the stone, and holding your fifteen to
twenty degree angle, pretend you are slicing the surface off the stone. Draw
the knife forward, and swing in downward in an arc so the tip of the knife
is finishing the stroke at the other end of the stone. Then turn the blade
over, and do the same on the other side.
Take an equal
number of strokes on both sides to keep the edge on center.
It is sometimes hard to get this stroke down right, and it may be helpful
for the beginner to use both hands. Grip the handle of the knife in one
hand, and use the fingers of your other hand on the back of the blade to
guide it. Work slowly until you get the feel of it. Sometimes, the stones
have a tendency to slip with the knife. To alleviate this try putting some
kind of pad under the stone. Felt would be good, or an old piece of rubber
innertube will help keep the stone from sliding. One definite word of
caution: DO NOT attempt to hold the stone in place with one hand while you
sharpen with the other.
Here is one final
little tidbit that doesn't actually have to do with sharpening a knife, but
can help you to prolong your edge. Try to avoid hitting bones and especially
teeth with your knife. Teeth have enamel which is super hard, much harder
than knife steel, and bones are not very good for the edge of a knife
either. If you exercise a little caution, especially in the head area of an
animal, you may save yourself time at the sharpening stone, and the
aggravation of dulling your knife.
Usually, when I
start a skinning session, I lay my bench stone on the worktable where it is
handy. If I lose the edge on my knife, a few strokes across the stone will
bring it back. This way, I avoid lengthy sessions at the stone trying to
revive an extremely dull knife, and I avoid having to work with a knife that
is in bad condition. There are other ways to sharpen a knife, but they are
not much handier, and won't do any better job than a good bench stone.
###
(Posted for November December 2011)
COLD WEATHER CANINES
By Hal Sullivan
(This article first appeared in Fur-Fish-Game
February 1995)
In most parts of
the country, trapping seasons are set to open in mid-fall. As a general
rule, this gives trappers a window of opportunity for harvesting critters
before the revenges of winter set in. As the temperatures edge progressively
toward the lower end of the thermometer, trappers begin to shorten and
curtail their lines as trapping conditions become more difficult and some
critters become inaccessible to trappers.
Muskrats and
beaver can be locked under a layer of ice. They can be trapped in this
environment, but it is hard work. Other critters like coons, possums, and
skunks while not true hibernators, will find a secure den and hole-up there
for extended periods. But, some animals seem relatively impervious to the
cold and remain generally active throughout the entire season. The canines
are among this group.
These animals
remain active throughout the winter and are readily available to trappers
who want to extend their lines beyond the general fall trapping season.
However, trapping through the winter requires a change in tactics and
techniques from the standard fall trapping methods.
The wintertime
trapper faces one major nemesis - frozen water. This is not limited to just
the ice that forms on lakes and streams. It also includes the water trapped
in the soil that turns moist dirt into organic concrete. Frozen water vapor
falls from the sky in the form of snow, and under certain conditions
precipitation that begins in liquid form can turn to ice before, or shortly
after, it makes landfall.
Frozen lakes and
streams are not a major concern for the canine trapper. On the other hand,
this can influence the travel patterns of the canines. Where once you may
have used bridges and natural crossings to funnel the movement of the
animals, they now can cross a body of water anywhere they choose.
Furthermore, canines will use the frozen surfaces as hunting grounds and
travelways. It is not at all unusual to see a set of canine tracks headed
right down the middle of a frozen stream or note where canines have hunted
through a frozen marsh in search of small prey.
The greater
concern for the canine trapper is frozen dirt. A trap that is frozen in the
ground is not likely to function well, if at all. One of the most popular
methods for fighting frozen dirt is to add an antifreeze compound to the
dirt. Salt is an old standby. It is used on roads and sidewalks in the
winter, and in the same manner it can be used to prevent the dirt from
freezing at a set.
The chemical name
for salt is sodium chloride. It has a close cousin, calcium chloride, that
is even better for antifreezing dirt. Calcium chloride will hold dirt
unfrozen below the temperatures at which salt becomes ineffective. You can,
in fact, sprinkle calcium chloride on a frozen set, and it will quickly thaw
the dirt.
Usually, these
compounds are applied as the set is constructed or in remaking the set.
First, sprinkle some antifreeze around the trap bed and put in the trap.
Then sift in a layer of dirt and sprinkle on more antifreeze. Continue
alternating a layer of dirt with an application of antifreeze until the trap
is bedded and covered.
You should
observe one major precaution in using salt or calcium chloride as
antifreeze. Both of these substances are highly corrosive and will cause
severe rusting on bare metal. Your traps must be protected either with a
coat of wax or one of the dip coatings if the traps are used in this
application. Be especially observant at a remake. If a trap has a
substantial amount of its coating removed, consider replacing it with a new
trap if you intend to use salt or calcium chloride at the set.
Fast Forward -- Today, I use a lot of propylene glycol for
antifreezing trap beds.
If temperatures
dip below freezing and stay that way both day and night, you can use
completely dry dirt to cover a trap. With no moisture content, there is
nothing in the dirt to freeze. Of course, this dirt must be prepared and
stored ahead of the season. However, if the set is subsequently exposed to
thawing, the dry dirt will suck up moisture from the surrounding ground, and
you are back to square one. To preclude this, many trappers take the
precaution of mixing some antifreeze with the dry dirt.
Another
alternative is to use one of the specialty products available for covering
traps under severe weather conditions. "Cover Hulls" is a brand of organic
grain hulls that are naturally resistant to moisture. Another product,
"Freeze-proof Dirt" is a specially coated dirt that again is resistant to
moisture. These products are available from a number of the major trapping
supply dealers.
Keeping a set
working during freezing weather is one concern, but getting a set in when
the ground is frozen is another matter. Depending on the severity and
duration of the cold spell, the ground may only be frozen on the surface.
But even an inch of frozen dirt is more than you can punch a standard
trapping trowel through. Here, I find another use for my trusty mason's
hammer because I can use the chisel end to chop through frozen ground. There
are other types of digging hammers available from trapping supply dealers,
and I'm sure they would work just as well.
But if the ground
is really frozen, chopping out an entire trap bed is a thankless task. But,
you don't necessarily have to dig a trap bed. No, I didn't say you don't
need a trap bed, I said you don't have to dig it. You can literally beat a
trap bed into frozen ground using a small sledge hammer. Just keep pounding
away until you have compressed the dirt enough to hold the trap. Driving
stakes is another matter, but unless you are in the throes of an impending
ice-age, you can probably drive a steel stake through the frost line.
Besides keeping
his traps working in freezing weather, the canine trapper also has to be
concerned with the effectiveness of scent attractors. Cold weather slows
down the dispersion of odors. A very mild mannered lure that might be
dynamite in the fall may be totally ineffective when freezing weather sets
in. This is the time to break out the "loud" lures. At this time, some of
the strong smelling call lures can be effective when used right at the set.
Urine can still
be effective in the wintertime. But you can experience problems with it
freezing up in the bottle. Urine generally has a natural salt content, and
the addition of a little extra won't hurt a thing. Dump a teaspoonful of
salt in your urine bottle or sprayer and shake it up. This should keep the
urine from freezing.
Because food
resources grow scarce as the winter progresses, bait becomes even more
effective. However, they suffer the same problems with odor dispersal as do
lures. Commercially prepared baits seem to hold up a little better because
some of the additives also act as an antifreeze. If you are using just plain
meat for bait, try sprinkling it with a little antifreeze before you place
it at the set.
Another option,
if you can get away with it, is to take some unpreserved meat and let it
"ripen". This means storing the meat in a warm atmosphere until it takes on
an atmosphere of its own. Usually this entails taking it to the house. Put
it in a loosely sealed container (so the gas can escape) and hide it
somewhere out of the way. When your wife, your girlfriend, or your mother,
as the case may be, starts to complain about a mysterious bad smell, your
bait is probably ready. I don't advocate exceedingly foul baits for warm
weather use, but wintertime is a different story. Animals aren't so fussy
when their food supply runs low, and the loud bait has more cold weather
calling power.
Snow adds yet
another dimension to wintertime canine trapping. A uniform blanket of white
snow presents the trapper some special opportunities, but it also presents
him with some special challenges.
The most
favorable aspect of a fresh snowfall is the medium it provides for reading
sign. A fox or a coyote could hardly sneak across this landscape without
making its presence known. Some beginning trappers have difficulty in
distinguishing the tracks of a wild canine from those of the many unattended
dogs that roam the country side. It can be even more perplexing if the snow
is loose and powdery and distinct imprints are unavailable.
In many
instances, you can differentiate the species by noting the animal's travel
pattern and the placement of its footfalls in relation to each other. Start
with the travel pattern. Dogs, as a rule, meander willy-nilly, hither and
yon, across the landscape. They leave a weaving pattern with a number of
detours. Wild canines, on the other hand, tend to steer a more or less
straight course.
I'm fairly
certain this trait stems from the survival instincts exhibited by the
undomesticated animals. There is little wasted motion or energy in wild
animals because there is a factor of uncertainty as to when the animal might
get its next meal to replenish its resources. This trait is bread out of
domestic animals that basically rely on their human owners for regular
sustenance.
The other
distinguishing feature is the placement of the tracks in relation to each
other. The tracks of a wild canine are placed one directly in front of the
other; almost as if the animal were walking on a tightrope. Dog tracks on
the other hand, tend to exhibit a wider sideways spacing. A set of fox or
coyote tracks across the landscape will appear as a string of beads. Dog
tracks show more of back and forth saw-tooth configuration.
You can now tell
what paths the canines are taking through an area and make your sets
accordingly. This is one time when snares can be very effective. Snares, of
course, are not subject to the whims of freezing and thawing dirt. Combine
this with the fact that the animals are showing you precisely which trails
they use, and you have an unbeatable combination.
But foothold
traps are still viable. Often, under these conditions, you can find a
natural urine post set as evidenced by the yellow snow. You can make a set
here, and the tracks will tell you exactly where the trap should be placed.
In this, and
other instances when you are setting footholds in the snow, it may be unwise
to leave an exposed dirt pattern. You can bed a trap in the normal manner,
then sift a layer of snow over the set. You can also use snow for a trap
covering. But you must be careful that subsequent freezing and thawing does
not lock in your trap. One method for helping to prevent this is to place
the trap inside a light weight sandwich bag, then cover the whole thing with
snow. The bag should easily stretch or tear when the trap fires, and it is
best to avoid the heavy duty bags.
You can still
construct a standard dirthole type set in the snow and leave an exposed dirt
pattern or cover the whole thing with snow, as you wish. But one thing that
may cause problems at any snow set is evidence of human tracks. I say this
"may" cause problems, because some canines show no aversion whatsoever to
human tracks in the snow. By the same token, I have noted where upon
encountering a set of human tracks, canines have turned and left the area on
a dead run!
Of course, it's
impossible to walk through the snow without leaving tracks; however, it is
good to leave as little sign of your presence as possible. If you are
following a trail and looking for a place to hang a snare, try to stay off
the trail itself as far as possible without losing sight of it. When you
note a likely looking spot, bring yourself abreast of it, then walk directly
up to the trail. Whenever possible, use weeds, brush, or other natural cover
in your approach route to camouflage your tracks. Try to avoid crossing or
disturbing the trail any more than necessary. Hang the snare, and back out
along your original tracks.
In making a
foothold set, try to walk straight into the location and stand in one spot
as you make the set; don't mill around. As you leave, endeavor to step right
in your old tracks and brush out the tracks about ten feet or so back from
the set. I usually try to grab a small tree branch on the way to the set,
then use it as a broom to sweep out my tracks as I leave.
This brings us to
another aspect of running traps in the snow. Any two-legged predator that
comes behind you, will be able to follow you to your sets. If you have to
make a set or remove an animal from a trap there's nothing you can do but
hope that providence provides honest people that follow in your footsteps.
However, if a snow covered set doesn't show any sign of activity, there is
no need for you to go too near to it. Also avoid walking straight out to a
set and then straight back in your own tracks. Instead, walk a loop that
does not pinpoint the general location of any of your sets.
While canines are
available to trappers all through the winter months, you will probably find
yourself with little competition for the resource. Another bonus is that you
have little competition from the nontarget coons, possums and skunks that
can plague the fall trapper. Yes, running sets under these conditions does
present some problems and hardships, but none that are insurmountable. Even
though mother nature turns a cold shoulder on you, the canines will give you
a warm reception.
###
(Posted for September October 2011)
CROPS AND CANINES
by Hal Sullivan
(This article first appeared in Fur-Fish-Game
December 1994(
As a boy, I
thrilled to the adventures of E.J. Dailey. At that time E.J. was America's
foremost fox trapper. Through the pages of Fur-Fish-Game, I followed him on
his Adirondak traplines, where he would seek out logging roads and clearings
in the forest to construct his fox sets. And I bemoaned the fact that I was
stuck slap in the middle of farm country, lacking any forest in which I
might trap those wily canines.
I am older and
wiser now. I've had the opportunity to run traplines in the forest. I mean
no disrespect to Mr. Dailey, but when it comes to a productive trapline,
I'll take crops and canines any day.
As is often the
case, alteration of the land for agricultural purposes does not necessarily
diminish its capacity to sustain wildlife. It may, in fact, enhance the
resources for certain species. This can be readily noted with production of
crops, especially grain crops, and the proliferation of canines.
The key here is food resources, but the link is not direct. Canines cannot
subsist on grain. However, a multitude of prey species will proliferate when
their habitat is wall-to-wall food. Grain can proved sustenance for rabbits,
squirrels, pheasants, deer, and a host of other game animals. All of these
can be used to some extent by canines. But of primary importance are the
small rodents, particularly mice, and the small seed eating birds that make
up a large portion of the canine's diet, especially during the fall and
winter months.
Because more food
is available, cropland will on average sustain a more dense population of
small prey species than forest land. In the same manner, because more food
is available, cropland will often sustain a greater number of canines, on a
per acre basis, than forest land. There are, however, some limiting factors.
Land that is totally under cultivation, lacking the necessary habitat for
denning, escape, and sheltering cover may not support a good population of
canines. The ideal habitat consists of cropland interspersed with untilled
gullies, brush rows, wood lots, river and creek bottoms, or other natural
cover. Here, you can reasonably expect to find a more dense population of
canines than in any other type of habitat.
While the
presence of some natural cover is beneficial in sustaining a population of
canines, their travel and activity are by no means limited to these tracts.
The animals cannot simply wait in the cover and hope that dinner comes
along. They hunt through and traverse the open fields in search of their
prey. Consequently, the crop fields themselves, and the travel ways through
them, offer excellent locations for sets.
Tractor roads,
fence rows, and any other continuous feature that extends through cropland
tends to funnel the canines in their travels. These features all provide
hints as to where sets might generally be located. But, often as not, the
fields themselves can provide the exact location for your sets.
In canine
trapping, it is generally most productive to make your sets on, or very
close to existing sign. And, there is no better place to read sign than in
the bare dirt of a crop field. The canines will tell you where they are
going, through their tracks left in the soft earth. Start by checking the
edges of the fields along the lanes, fence rows, brush lines, and other
natural features.
However, the
movement of canines across cropland is not always dictated by the natural
forcing features of the land. They are quite prone to travel along any
ridges that extend down the fields. It is not at all unusual to find canine
tracks on a ridge right in the middle of a field, hundreds of yards from the
nearest cover. There are also instances on flat ground when canines, for no
apparent reason, will select one crop row down which they repeatedly travel.
Often, by walking crossways to the crop rows, you can locate one of these
highways. Be particularly observant if the field is bordered on each end
with heavy cover.
Also look for
sign where two fields come together, either on property boarders or where
fields switch from one crop to another, called a crop change line. There is
often a stand of grass and weeds along these edges which provides cover for
small animals and hunting opportunities for the canines.
Besides providing
a good medium for reading sign, the dirt in tilled cropland yields itself
handily to set construction. You probably can't find an easier place to dig
a trap bed. You won't have to contend with roots, rocks, or any of the other
nasty things that lurk underground at other trap sites. This dirt is soft,
and finely divided. It packs easily, which makes trap bedding a snap. It is
also easy to blend in a set in the bare dirt. Just cover it with dirt!
By the same
token, because this dirt is loose and soft, sets constructed in cropland
usually require a more substantial staking system. You will need a stake
that is longer than normal, or you might consider using a cross stake
system.
Fast Forward -- Cable stakes work extremely will in this
application too.
Also, rainy
weather can be a problem in cropland. The bare dirt can quickly turn to mud,
and make set maintenance a chore. You can rebed traps in dry dirt but this
will quickly absorb water from the surrounding ground. An alternate method
is to simply rebed the traps in the mud, and use some of the crop duff to
cover the trap. Since the trap site is surrounded by this material, this
covering does not look out of place.
What kind of set
should you use? In this situation, the good old dirthole set is hard to
beat. Mice are a major attraction for the canines in this situation, it is
easy for them to burrow into the soft earth. It is also easy for the canines
to dig them out. If you search around, you will in all likelihood find some
of these natural digs in the fields. A standard dirthole, with about a three
inch hole, closely resembles one of these digs. It is not at all necessary
or even desirable to construct a nice, neat dirthole. Gouge out the hole,
and scatter the dirt around, just as if you were digging after a mouse
yourself.
It is important,
however, to bed the trap solidly and pack the dirt both inside and outside
the jaws. When you dig up and loosen this cropland dirt, then sift it back
over your trap, it expands and gets "fluffy" in a manner of speaking. That's
what makes it good crop dirt. However if you have a heavy layer of fluffy
dirt over the trap bed and the trap, the animal's foot is going to sink into
it as it investigates the set. This alone will arouse the animal's
curiosity. Maybe it thinks it has stepped on a mouse tunnel. Whatever the
reason, this can, and often does, elicit a digging response from the animal.
The last thing you want is an animal digging around your trap bed. Pack the
dirt around the trap as you bed and cover it, then finish it off with a thin
layer of loose dirt to give the set a natural appearance.
Another set that
can be productive in this situation is the mouse hole set. This set is
similar to the dirthole, except that it utilizes a tiny hole about one inch
in diameter, about the same size as a mouse would make. The set obviously is
made to resemble a mouse hole. The easiest way to make this hole is to drive
a trap stake into the ground and twist it around until you have formed a
hole. Make this hole on a slightly elevated hump of ground, like that found
near the roots and stems of the field plants. This is where a mouse would
dig its hole to avoid being flooded out.
Unlike the
dirthole, this set should be placed cleanly and neatly. Don't use a widely
scattered dirt pattern. Bed the trap in front of the hole, using a placement
suitable for the target species--six to eight inches for fox, and about 10
to12 inches for coyote. Mice will scatter a small amount of loose dirt in
front of their holes as they dig them, but not much. Dig a bed just large
enough to hold the trap, pack it in place, and finish it off with loose
dirt. Do not scatter the dirt pattern beyond the trap bed. Then use your
trowel to scrape up a couple of tiny ridges of sifted dirt that V off from
the edges of the hole for about three or four inches. This resembles an
actual mouse digging.
The standard
dirthole can utilize just about any kind of bait and lure. The mouse hole
set works best with a small shot of food lure down the hole. It is even
better with a food lure, or bait, that is made from mice. It will of course
be effective if you can catch or find a mouse to stuff down in the tiny
hole.
There is,
however, one major concern or consideration to be observed in trapping
cropland. Since the land is used to produce crops, you will have to contend
at various times and in various ways with the production of that crop.
In most parts of
the country, the opening of trapping season overlaps the harvesting season
for crops. Some crops will be out, while others will still be standing in
the field. Setting traps among standing crops is risky business. You must be
aware that harvest of that crop is probably eminent. If the crop is
harvested with your trap in place, you're probably going to have a devil of
a time finding your trap and your set, or whatever is left of it.
For this reason,
it is preferable in most cases to set on harvested cropland. But this too
can prove chancy. With the advent of no-till farming, some crop fodder is
simply left standing with a new crop planted over it in the spring. This is
certainly a boon to trappers. However, the plow still plays a big part in
agriculture. And the standard practice is to plow in the fall and let the
tilled dirt winter over. Having your traps harvested over is bad enough.
Having them plowed over is a nightmare.
Since I do a lot
of cropland trapping, I've had a number of traps plowed out. Surprisingly
enough, I am usually able to find most of these traps. If you can pinpoint
the general location of the set, walk into the plowed ground and start
searching carefully. There have been occasions when I've found the trap
laying right on top of the ground. But, most of the time I will spot only a
part of the trap, or more likely I will see the stake. When a plow hits the
trap, it usually pulls up the stake, and often the stake stays right with
the trap.
Fast Forward -- Today, very little of the farm ground I
plowed.
The traps are
usually in some need of repair after this encounter. Ordinarily a vice and a
hammer can bring them back into serviceable condition. Those that are beyond
repair are saved for parts. Granted, I do not relish the thought of having
my traps mangled or destroyed, but the bottom line says the productivity of
these cropland sets far outweighs the loss in traps.
In some
instances, it may be possible to coordinate your trapping efforts with the
farmer. If you know when a certain field is going to be harvested or plowed,
you can get your traps out of harm's way. However, farmers are never bound
by rigorous schedules, and they certainly can't be expected to postpone
their activities simply because you have traps in their fields.
Crop fields are
definitely good places to make canine sets, but by no means should you limit
yourself to setting in them exclusively. The areas around the fields
including pastures, hay fields, and even the woodlots and brush rows
themselves may yield good locations for sets. In fact, this may be the only
place to keep sets operational if the fields are being harvested or tilled.
But, when the
opportunity arises, sets made right in the fields are easily constructed and
very productive. If you are after fox or coyote, you can find them where
they can find food. With the production of grain farmers feed millions of
people. The fact that this feeds a countless number of other small critters,
which in turn feed an untold number of canines is an added benefit to the
trapper. While America's farmers put food on the table, America's trappers
can put canines on their stretchers.
###
(Posted for July August 2011)
TRACKS
by Hal Sullivan
(This article first appeared in The Trapper and
Predator Caller, May 1994)
Learning to read
animal sign is an integral part of successful trapping. Of all the telltale
marks left by animals, tracks are the most likely to be noticed, observed,
and identified. If you can find tracks, you can be sure the animal is, or at
least was, in the area; and you may be able to pinpoint its exact location
or travel route.
The first step in this process is to familiarize yourself with the tracks of
various animals. Most of the generalized trapping books have a section
showing animal tracks. The public library is also a good source of
information. Look up the books in the "animal" section, and you will likely
find some on wild animals that will have illustrations of tracks. Thanks to
modern technology, most libraries have a photocopier, and for a few cents
you can copy this material and keep it for your future reference.
Fast Forward - The internet is a good place to look up
pictures of tracks.
The first thing
to note about a track is its general shape. Some tracks are very
distinctive. The rear foot of a coon squatting in the mud leaves a track
that is very similar in shape to a human baby's foot, and the rear track of
a possum resembles a miniature human hand complete with a thumb. The track
of a beaver may show the webbing in its back foot.
Other things that
help identify a track are the placement of the toes or claws on an animal.
Some animals have long, finger-like toes which they use for grasping an
holding. Coons, possums, muskrats, and beaver usually show long toe marks.
Other animals, notably predators, have a compact foot with short toes and
large pads. The common domestic dog and cat have this type of foot.
Studying pictures and illustrations is a very good idea, but there is no
substitute for practical experience. The easiest way to identify a rabbit
track is when there is a rabbit directly ahead of it. You won't always be
able to see the animal that made the track, but you can study tracks in
their natural state and compare them with your notes. You can track animals
at any time of the year.
At first, some
tracks will be hard to identify and differentiate. I know a number of
beginning trappers who thought they had found a veritable infestation of
mink, only to learn that they were tracking fox squirrels up and down the
creek bank. Other tracks are hard to identify because of the great
similarity in species. Gray fox tracks are similar to red fox; coyotes have
a similar but larger track, and any of theses are hard to differentiate from
the vast array of domestic dogs that roam the countryside.
You can help
yourself, if you can obtain the actual foot or feet of the animal you are
studying. If you have caught one in your trap, you may be able to make some
tracks of your own. After you dispatch the animal, find a smooth, muddy spot
and press the animal's foot down in a natural position. Try to do this
before the animal stiffens up so the foot will bend and flex naturally.
Mud is by far and
away the best medium for taking the imprint of an animal's foot, and most
track-seeking trappers check muddy areas first. Mud is relatively abundant
on most water lines, and there are many opportunities to find a track.
Upland, things are slightly different. Still, periodic rains temporarily
turn bare dirt into mud and may leave puddles and damp low areas where
animal tracks can be observed. A day or two after a rain is a good time to
scout for tracks.
Mud can also
yield a track in an entirely different manner when it clings to an animal's
foot. Like an ink pad and stamp, you can sometimes find tracks where a muddy
animal has stepped on or walked across a clean object. This might be a rock,
log, or even an individual leaf.
As I was scouting
for mink one fall, I came across a small hole in the bank that looked "minky".
The grass and ground cover precluded finding any tracks outside, and the
hole was too small to see into. However, laying in the mouth of the hole was
a freshly fallen maple leaf with one perfect mink track stamped directly in
the middle of it. The mink had dirtied its feet crawling through the hole,
an left this track upon exit.
On the other end
of the spectrum, very dry and loose dust will take a good impression of an
animal's footprint. During long dry spells, especially during the middle of
summer, many dirt roads and farm lanes get churned to dust by the movement
of traffic. You may be able to pick up the tracks of an animal following or
crossing one of these roads.
On one occasion,
I was asked to do some nuisance trapping at a campground because the
"skunks" were invading the trash cans and scattering garbage around. These
cabins were built on a ridge top, and this just didn't appear to be skunk
habitat. I went searching for sign. Between the well manicured lawns, and
the rocks and leaf mold of the forest beyond, there was no good place to
pick up a track. But each cabin had an elevated back porch that stuck out
over the hillside. Since the dirt under these porches was completely
sheltered from the rain, there was a thick layer of dust, and I found
tracks. These folks had an infestation of possums. The tracks were perfectly
clear in the dust, and some trails even showed a reversing slash imprints
where the possum's tail struck the ground as it waddled along.
Melting, rotten
snow is also very good for taking a clear imprint of an animal's track, and
a fresh, wet snowfall is nearly as good. This type of snow will pack and
compress easily, and often shows clear markings of the animal's pads and
claws. But, tracks made in snow like this may not hold their definition very
long especially when temperatures rise above freezing.
While wet snow is
best for taking a clear and distinct track, snow in general always provides
good tracking conditions especially when it comes to following and trailing
an animal. However, tracks made in loose snow will rarely show sharply
defined characteristics because the snow tends to fall back into the track
as soon as the animal lifts its foot. Subsequent snowfall, or blowing and
drifting snow, may further combine to fill in the tracks.
This brings up
another aspect of identifying animal tracks. Many animals can be identified
by their gait or the pattern that their footfalls make in the snow. Often,
drawings of animal tracks will show a series of tracks to illustrate a
typical trail made by that animal. The spacing of the tracks and the
patterns they make, help to determine the source.
One very good
example of this is in comparing the trail of a wild canine to that of a
domestic dog. Although the two animals might be similar in size their trial
through the snow will be quite different. The tracks of the wild canine will
be evenly spaced, with one foot placed directly ahead of the other almost as
if the animal were walking on a tight rope. The tracks of a dog might also
be evenly spaced but they do not walk a tight rope. The left side and right
side tracks will fall on either side of the center line. Another telltale
clue is the path that the tracks follow. Wild canines travel in a more or
less straight line, while the path of a dog will weave back and forth.
Don't expect to
become an overnight success at finding and identifying animal tracks. You
will have to do some research to know what you are looking for or what you
are looking at. Buying a good book with good illustrations is a wise
investment. But you must also invest some time in field work looking for
tracks in different places under different conditions. If you are lucky, you
may know an experienced tracker who will give you some pointers.
Your ability to
find and identify animal sign, including tracks, will have a direct bearing
on the success of your traplines. It is one of the surest methods of
determining the presence and distribution of animals in the area. Learning
to read tracks is an important page in a trapper's education.
###
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