Information, Resources, and On-Line Trapping Forum

Topics:

Fur Sheds. All trappers. Do you have a separate building for putting up your fur? If not, where do you process your fur? Review This Topic

Muskrat Traps. Muskrat trappers: What traps do you use for muskrats? What is your first choice, second choice? Please comment. Review This Topic

Muskrat Sets. Muskrat trappers: What sets do you use most for muskrats? Please comment. Review This Topic

Packbaskets. All trappers: Do you use a packbasket? If so, how big and what kind (wood, fiberglass, etc.) If not, what do you use to carry your equipment.? Review This Topic

Skinning & Fleshing Beaver. Beaver Trappers: What method do you use for skinning and/or fleshing beaver? Clean skin? Rough skin and flesh? Partial case skin and flesh? Other method? Do you use any special techniques for fleshing beaver? Review This Topic

Stretching Beaver. Beaver Trappers: Do you stretch your beaver on hoops or boards? Why? Review This Topic

Remake Sets. Canine Trappers: How do you execute a remake set after you have caught an animal, canine or otherwise. Review This Topic

Notebooks. All trappers: Do you keep a notebook on your trapline? What kind of information do you record? Review This Topic

Scouting. All trappers: How much scouting do you do before the season starts? What do you look for when you are scouting? Where do you look? Review This Topic

Dry Dirt. Land Trappers: Do you gather dry dirt before the start of trapping season? What type of dirt do you gather, and how do you dry and store it? Review This Topic

Drowning Sets. Water Trappers: What are your methods for creating a lethal drowning set? Review This Topic

Lethal Coon Sets. Coon Trappers: Approximately what proportion of your sets are lethal? Are these primarily bodygrip sets or drowning sets and in what proportion? Review This Topic

Replies:

Fur Sheds. All trappers. Do you have a separate building for putting up your fur? If not, where do you process your fur?

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Name: Taylor
no i dont but i use my cellar next year i will have one.
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Name: Weasil
Email: Punkiethumper@mchsi.com
My "fur shed" is the lawn and garden shed during the winter. My trapping supplies are stored in big rubbermaid containers during the off season. Before that, it was a farmer's shed til he retired.
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Name: Brian Potter
I have my own fur shed for my skinning and storing all my trapping supplies. I used to skin in my basement until I hit a mink gland and my wife said "No more of that"!! The next spring I built a 8x8 skinning shed.
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Name: Zach Ellis
I use a small building that has been on my property ever since I've lived here. It is perfect for me. I have done alot of work to it this summer. Put doors on it and tar papered it up so it can be heated this winter.
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Name: JW
I CONVERTED MY GARAGE INTO A FUR SHED
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Name: marshall owen
I use my shop to put up my furs. I have wood heat in it so keeping it warm is not a problem.
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Name: Martin Gruber
My basement. I have a very understanding and tolerant wife. Skunks get done outside, she's not that understanding.
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Name: Justin Ratcliffe
i process all my fur in my shed i store my fur in big rubermaid containers.
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Name: Jim Severing
My fur shed is attached to my garage about forty feet from the house, the shed portion is used for storing equipment, lures ect. basically a converted chicken coop, the garage is used for stringing fur and skinning. Not the fanciest or warmest set up in the world and I've been known to sneak a few critters down in the basement by the furnace to skin when it gets real cold, works ok until I knick a mink gland or two, then its back out to the garage, with tail between legs. My wife and kids, just dosnt understand the benifits of good natural perfume and air freshner.
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Name: Scott Lula
I put up my fur in a outbuilding *******************************************************************
Name: Jeff C.
I do mine in my 30 by 40 pole barn. I have racks in the top to hang my fur on. With a wood stove for heat my fur dries in 3 to 5 days.
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Name: Kim Marie Page
When the temperature is above freezing, I use a lean-to that keeps our firewood dry. I do all my skinning and fleshing there and bring the pelts inside to hang in my laundry room. When the temperature is below freezing, my father graciously allows me to use his garage to process the fur. Then I stretch the hide on a stretcher and take it home to dry in my laundry room. Hopefully soon my husband will build me a fur shed.
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Name: J. Vail
I do my fur work in a piece built on to my house, and any one that comes to visit has to walk through my "fur shed" to get inside. It can be rather interesting on halloween when kids come in.
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Name: Tyler Romig
I have a seperat building for putting up my fur. But when it gets really cold i have to move into our entryway. I still put the furs out there because the will eventually dry no matter how cold it gets.
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Name: Obejoyful
I do have a fur shed for must of my storage needs. I skin my catch in the field useing a truck mounted skinning gannon and gambril. Ninty five percent of my fleshing can be and is done outside of the fur shed (Arizona weather permits that) so I need a shed only for stretching and equipment storage.
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Name: ID Trapper
I built a small shed just for putting up furs, then I got divorced and now I don't have one! Curse the luck! Needless to say I will be building another when I get a house. It sure is nice to have a place just for trapping.
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Name: tbear
I use one bay of a three bay garage, walled off from the other two bays.
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Name: Jack Turner
Yes, I do have a separate shed for putting up fur. It is a 10'x10' wooden shed, but I keep it organized enough that it is sufficient.
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Name: Robert Rivers
I bought a used house trailor some time ago to use for storage. The thing was so big and I had already hooked up the water, septic, and so forth that I just converted the kitchen into my trap shed. You have heat, running water to wash thee hands, tools, etc, and a cozy place to mess up and the wife doesnt complain. Did I mention that the trailor cost only $500? Less than what one would pay to build a custom fur shed with half the coziness. Nestle this way back in your woods out of sight and the little lady doesnt complain at all. Just a thought.
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Name: John Porter
I have a 16X20 garage that is now my trapshed/hunting room. I keep everything relating to the outdoors in there and also can hang my canoes from the rafters come snow season
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Name: Hal
I have a separate building for putting up my furs. Actually, it just half the building, but it's sealed up so I can heat it.

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Muskrat Traps. Muskrat trappers: What traps do you use for muskrats? What is your first choice, second choice? Please comment.

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Name: Robert P. Juidici
I use #1 longsprings, 110's and colony traps. A colony trap is always the first choice if the situation presents itself, due to multiple catches and virtually no chance for escape. #1's are second followed by 110's.
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Name: Ray Starnes
One and half longspring as my first choice, and a #110 conibear as my second choice. the longspring because of the weight(also good for mink)and the conibear for a quick setting trap that fits a lot of other sets. In my opinion, good traps all around.
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Name: shane
My personal choice for my first trap would be the 110. Then I would relate to my old faithful #1 coilspring trap.
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Name: Glenn
My first choice for muskrat traps would be the 110 sized bodygrips. These traps are completely unaffected by rising or falling waters. My second choice strictly for muskrats would be a #1 stoploss for shallow water trapping where the use of a bodygripper isn't practical. Third choice would be a 1.5 or 2 coil spring where there's deep enough water for lethal sets.
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Name: matt
110's and 1.5 is there anything else to use?! first choice is 110 in den entrances, then 1.5's on feed beds and trails.
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Name: ed
For muskrats i like #1 blake & lamb longsprings. In my opinion they are the best also a fine mink trap. i have found a lot at conventions.
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Name: Tuskettrapperman
First choice would be colony traps, then 110's and then 1 1/2's either coil or jumps.
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Name: Bill B
My first choice is a #1 stoploss followed buy the 1 1/2 ls. If for a long haul lots of sets I mainly rely in #1 jumps and #1 jump stoploss to carry more traps. I don't use alot of 110's mostly because of the type of waterways that I cover. The stoploss trap is a real good choice when water depth is marginal and the extra weight of the trap is a plus.
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Name: trappnman
I think the heavier the trap the better. I actually prefer the old #2 double longsprings for rats. This trap stabilizes easily and takes a rat down quick. My second choice would be a plain old #1 1/2 longspring, for the same reasons. That being said, I used about 25% the above 2 traps and 75% 1.5 coilsprings, because I like a dual purpose trap, and the 1.5 coil is such a trap.
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Name: Jim Severing
I prefer 1.5 blake&lamb or victor longsprings for rats, usually a good high grip with a heavey trap that takes the rats to the bottom, my second choice would be a 110 conibear for shallow non drowning situations. As for what traps do I own and use for rats they range from some old gibbs through northwoods, in various jaw types, size and varities of the longspring, underspring and misc. stoploss traps thrown in along with some coilspring and conibear traps, pretty much make up my rough outfit for rats.
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Name: Ian Miller
i use #1 or 1 1/2 coils for rats because they have enough weight just to add some extra wire and they will drown themselves.
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Name: Josh legg
First choice would be the 1 1/2 coil followed by the 110 and 220 coni
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Name: pktrapper
I use bodygrips where possible and stopploss traps. Where I trap there are many streams and creeks and using bodygrips is not an option. When I use them, I prefer as large a trap as will fit the situation up to a 220.
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Name: traptender
I don't really have a favorite trap for rats. I use #1 longsprings on feed beds, trails and pipes. 110 conibears were used mainly on the pipes. Whatever the conditions called for at the time is the trap I used.
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Name: Jared
I use a number 1 coil spring for them. I like them because they are plenty strong and they are not as expensive as the bigger kinds of traps people use for them.
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Name: taylor
my first choice is the 110 bodytrap. my second choice is the 1 1/2 foothold.
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Name: Mallard
I prefer to use 110s as a first choice and a 1 1/2 LS for my second. The 110's are simple an effective in runs, huts, and dens, while the 1 1/2 LS and their weight seem to fit the bill for feed beds, pocket sets, and blind sets. By reversing the chain and adding an auxiliary spring to the LSs, I have had no problems holding that incidental coon at the pockets and blind sets, using a slide wire whenever possible.
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Name: skier
My first choice of muskrat traps would be 110 conibears because usually the muskrat is dead in the trap so all i have to do is remake the set. I have 3 dozen i put out each winter. My second choice of trap would a #1 on a drowner rig because on time i pulled my unset set up and you will never guess what i pulled up i pulled a big male fox that was attracted to my apple lure
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Name: Zach Ellis
Conibear= #110. Foothold=#1 and #1 1/2 coilspring
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Name: matt
i use colony traps where possible. but like #1 long springs where colonys can't be used.
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Name: caleb jacobson
i use a bunch of old herters #1, duke #1 old victor #1. the little dukes(for me) are kind of hard to set with gloves on. they keep snapping and tearing holes in my gloves.
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Name: Marshall Owen
while we don't have many muskrats in the areas that I trap, if I had to choose it would be the #1 stoploss
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Name: Rick Lanham
1. NO. 1 or 1-1/2 foothold 2.110 bodygrip
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Name: coon wild
my first choice is colony traps. in ontario canada we have no restrictions on size or use and you can sure pile up the rats quick with them. my second choice would be 110 coni.
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Name: Don
My first choice is the conibear - second choice would be a foothold size anywhere from #1 to 1.5. - I like the conibear for the quick dispatch. I prefer the 1.5 footholds because the weigh a little more than the #1's.
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Name: Roughfisher Corey
First Choice: #1 Stoploss. Second Choice: #110 Conibear. Stoplosses are perticularly great for trapping in houses.
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Name: Gary Mather
#2 sized trap In a coil spring style. 1.75 sized trap In a coil spring style. Both the above traps give you weight to quickly drown your catch. They also give you a large kill area, nd give you a high catch on the animal to help prevent wring offs. Both these traps are also good mink traps for the same reason. The #1 sized trap in either long spring and jump styles will work well in situations were you are setting feed beds where the larger trap would sink the bed. Body griping traps In 110 or 160s. 110s for narrow runs and dens
and 160s for the large runs and large den openings.
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Name: Ric
Frist choice Bodygrip 110 BMI magnum second any brand 110 size. First choice foothold #1 B&L shurehold I've got a lot of them, they work well and will hold the incidental coon and mink just fine. Second choice foothold any 11/2-2 size
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Name: ID Trapper
This depends on the particular set I'm using. I mostly set runs and dens, so the 110 conibear is probably my first choice. At a feedbed I use a foothold, size 1. My main concern with footholds is having enough water to drown the animal.
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Name: John Porter
My first choice of trap is a 1 1/2 cs. Second would be the 110 conibear. I use the 1 1/2 as I feel it holds and drowns a rat quicker.
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Name: Dennis Metzger
I use #1's , usually longs. Depending on the water I use #2 longs or # 11's. I am 45 yrs old and have never set a conibear for anything other than beaver.
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Name: MB
1st: # 110 magnum conibear. 2nd: # 1 1/2 coil on a drowner (multi-species use). 3 rd: Colony traps where I can put them in.
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Name: Trapper62
My preferred trap is the #1 jump: In ND we can trap inside the huts, some of these have fairly tight quarters inside them and the #1 jump offers a nice compact design for the beds of these huts. Also the #1 jump is a pretty heavy trap and with 2'-3' of wire attached to them they drown the rats quickly.
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Name: Hal
I think it becomes apparent from the above, that many trapper's choice for muskrat traps depends largely upon the conditions under which they are trapping. I was somewhat surprised to see colony traps mentioned so frequently. As a young fellow, I used colony traps almost exclusively. (Please note: colony traps are not legal in all areas.) Today, my trap of choice for muskrats is the #110 bodygrip. It is quite versatile and can be used in runs and den entrances (where legal). The obvious advantage in a #110 is that it dispatches the rat and can be used where deep water is not available for drowning. Where the water is deep enough, I like a #1 or #1-1/2 longspring. I like the longsprings for muskrat trapping because they are very easy to set, even with gauntlets on. But on the bottom line. I don't hesitate to set any kind of foothold where the water is deep enough. Sometimes, I'll use my old dirty canine traps on muskrats, just to get them cleaned up.

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Muskrat Sets. Muskrat trappers: What sets do you use most for muskrats? Please comment.

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Name: Robert P. Juidici
I use a #1 longspring in a semi-pocket I create with the toe of my boot. Bait or lure is put beyond trap and I either drown with a slide wire or stake in deep water.
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Name: Ray Starnes
I use mostly bank/trail sets, feed sets, overhang, and floating sets. Almost in that order. Once I locate where they are coming and going to feed sets, then I gang set them hard. The first few nights in each area will take the excess and leave good stock for next season. If we're lucky, a nice buck mink too.
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Name: shane
My most productive set for muskrat would be the runway set. Its gotten me numerous muskrat.
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Name: Glenn
The first set I look to make for muskrats is a simple den set with a 110 sized bodygrip trap. I also like to find underwater muskrat highways and set them up with the little bodygrippers too. When I can't make either of those 2 sets, I look for feedbeds using foothold traps. If a lethal set can't be made I'll opt for a stoploss trap. However a lethal drowning set is always my first option.
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Name: Tuskettrapperman
The most set that I use is a baited colony set underwater near rat houses (usually set 3 per house) next would be baited floats and then 110 in the runs or dens (if I can't use a colony trap) last would be footholds where water is deep enough.
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Name: Bill B
90% of my sets are on sign be it feed beds toilets and other places where rats come up. I will use lure and artificial sets only when the sign is in places where I can't get a decent set in. I also try not to set in runs due to not liking finding a chewed up rat that got stuck in the run. I find that setting on sign works just as well as going on runs.
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Name: Jim Severing
I mostly use blind sets for rats, but will heel in imitation feed beds and reach for the lure bottle or bait in a heart beat if the sign dictates there's more rats to be had than conditions for good blind sets available, with rats I like to rotate traps often, leap froging sections of a brook, river or lake and then move on.
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Name: Ian Miller
i like to set up right in front of a den entrance with a 110 coni or i also like to set at toilets.
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Name: Josh Legg
fake slide set, natural run sets, bottom edge, feed beds
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Name: traptender
My number one set for rats was the drain pipe set. It will catch them day after day and is really easy to set.
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Name: taylor
The set i use the most is the trail set.
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Name: Mallard
When setting for muskrats my first option is always a 110 coni set at bank den entrances, and in the Hut runs, followed by a 1 1/2 LS set on feed beds, and then blind sets that are typicaly meant for mink.
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Name: Zach Ellis
I like the log set and a #110 over a den hole. I usually use lure and bait on my log sets, but can catch rats with just a blind log set.
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Name: matt
i use runs and float sets.
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Name: Rick Lanham
Blind sets in runs and slides.
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Name: Don
Using conibears - I like to set them in the runs on the bottom of the creeks or ditches. Den entrances and crossovers in streams. For the footholds - I like to set them where the muskrats feed under overhanging banks, slides and of course the pocket set seems to catch quite a few rats. Another set is blind sets - trail that is under just about an inch of water and there is a natural squeeze point where the rat or raccoon or mink will travel on the creek's edge.
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Name: alex
The set that I use most for muskrat would be the under water den entrance set when found. Also I like to use the channel set with a #110 and guides by the side of the set.
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Name: Ric
I'm an oportunist here. Footholds on feedbeds and blind sets. Artificial trail set if need be. Dens and runs bodygrips
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Name: ID Trapper
I mainly use runs and den sets. These are quick and easy to set up, don't need bait or lure, and always produce.
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Name: Gary Mather
If the rats are living In huts just push down a spot on the side of the house to hold the trap solid. The trap should be about 1 Inch under water. Place some lure above the trap on the side of the house.

Feed Bed set: Look around the edges of the pond In the grass or cattails for little floating masses of grass and roots these are called feed beds. The rats rest on these as they are eating. A small trap placed on this bed will take you some rats.

Slide set: You will also notice where the rats are coming up on the banks to feed. These spots are called slides. A trap placed under water at the bottom of the slide will catch rats climbing up the bank. Your trap should be just under water. If the water is too deep at that point, you can build up the bottom with a chunk of sod. Or you can dig out the bank at the bottom of the slide to form a shelf so you can place your trap.

Undercut banks: If there are banks that are undercut with grass hanging over the edges, look under that grass rats just love to rest and feed in these spots.

The Toilet set: You will find where the rats have climbed up on logs or rocks or tufts of grass to do there job. Traps placed In the water at these places will also catch some rats. But at times It's a little hard to determine which way the rat is coming up on the spot. And water depth will determine If you can place a trap. But again you can build up the bottom so you can place the trap.

Under water Dens or runs: Here is the place to use bodygrip traps. 110s placed In the run or den openings will be very effective. A run Is a under water channel leading from the den to a feed source. Multiple traps placed along this channel will get you several rats at each check. You will at times find runs that are too wide for a 110, this is where a larger trap like a 160 will do a better job. You can also narrow down the run so the rat can't swim around the smaller trap.

There are many other sets that will take rats but this should get you started. What ever sets you use make sure you have enough water to drown your catch. Good luck.
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Name: John Porter
I use the toilet set mainly or a baited pocket. We can not trap a hut here in maine and most of my rat trapping is done on rivers with currents, so feed beds are out also.
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Name: Dennis Metzger
Toilet rocks, trails and bait sets. It also depends on what the rats are doing.
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Name: MB
Den entrance, bottom-edge, and underwater trail sets with #110 conibears. Pocket and feed bed sets with # 1 1/2 coils. My most productive sets are at the den entrances and the bottom edge sets.
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Name: Trapper62
We can trap the huts, so that is by far a quick way to pile up the fur in a short time span. I do use baited 110's during the spring season, set up on the shore edge with about 2" of the trap above the water. I bait with split asparagus speared on the trigger wires, center portion of the asparagus facing away from the shore and the bait partially in the water. The asparagus seems to release oils this way.
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Name: Hal
(Thanks, Gary, for the detailed set descriptions.) My favorite set is the den set, where dens can be located and it is legal to trap them. My second favorite set is the feed pocket set. These are little openings on the bank usually under some undercut roots, brush, or something else that gives the rat shelter from above. At times when I find these pockets, and they don't seem too active, I may use a little bait (usually apple) or muskrat lure to attract them. I also like to set toilet logs, with a foothold trap.

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Packbaskets. All trappers: Do you use a packbasket? If so, how big and what kind (wood, fiberglass, etc.) If not, what do you use to carry your equipment.?

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Name: coonanfox
No I don't use a packbasket. Unfortunately much of our society views trappers and trapping as cruel and inhumane so I try not to draw attention to myself when in the field, simply to avoid any confrontations. Since I do most of my trapping from a ATV my traps and stakes are kept in a milk crate strapped to the front rack and the rest of my gear is stowed under a cargo net on the back rack. Any surplus gear is stored in the pick-up truck to be transferred to the ATV when needed.
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Name: Rick Lanham
I use a large fiberglass packbasket that I have had for over 20 years for canine trapping and I use a couple 5 gallon buckets for water trapping to put my stuff in and just set them in the boat. I also tie the cheap cloth carpenters apron around all of them to carry lure and other trapping neccesities.
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Name: Tom Byers
For land trapping I use custom made ash pack with a cut 5 gallon bucket insert and lure pouch. For water trapping I use a 5 gallon bucket when I use anything. Usually I just store everything in pockets as I usually road trap and keep everything in the truck and just have what i need on me.
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Name: Larry Olson
I use an old nylon backpack ($8.00 secondhand store) on an aluminum frame. I inserted a plastic waste basket to stiffen the sides, so I do have a packbasket of sorts, only cheaper. It also has the advantage of exterior pockets and is easy to clean.
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Name: jimmy
no i just use a army pack from my dad from Vietnam
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Name: skier
Yes I use a 18 inch wood packbasket on my fox, coyote, and beaver lines were time is a must and if i can't get to them with my four wheeler. On my mink, coon, and muskrat lines I use a 4 by 4 pull behind trailor on my four-wheeler and I put my supplies(traps, etc) in.
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Name: Ian Miller
I don't use a packbasket. I do most o my trapping from a quad and have a rack on it and if I need to walk a little I take a bucket with me so I can put my stuff in there.
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Name: Scottrw
I use a wooden packbasket, mine is an 18 inch one. It's good for all-around trapping but I find it just a little too small for carrying enough #330's for beaver trapping. I never used a fiberglass basket before so I can't say what they're like, but I like my wooden one.
Sometimes when I have to hike A long distance I'll use a knapsack or even a external frame hikers backpack.
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Name: Ray Starnes
When I know I'll be away from the truck for awhile, I use a backpack, like a ruck sack the army uses. Its many compartments and pockets are ideal for carrying what items you'll need for most land sets, or beaver sets. When out of the back of my truck, I use a set up similar to what Tom Miranda uses in his trapping videos. My gear is setup for speed. Sometimes having doubles of certain items is the best way to go.
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Name: TraplineMusher
I use an old 24 inch wood packbasket. This was hand made by a fellow for my Dad. It's 51 yrs old this year and still going strong. Every year I use boiled linseed oil on it before I put it up for the winter. I also carry a lot of gear in a sled bag which goes in my dog sled. Animals get strapped to the outside of my bag.
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Name: andy knowles
i use a 17 inch wood trapping basket for water and a 22 inch wood basket for land
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Name: Justin B.
I have been using a Rubbermade Tupper-ware to carry all of my trapping Equipment. Wal-mart sells them, they are long and short [heigth wise], and are made to go under a bed. They stack very easily if you need more then one to carry your equipment, and sure do work out well since they fit almost perfectly on A.T.V. racks.

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Name: trapperjason
No. In winter, I use a snowmobile with a sleigh. In spring/fall, I use a fourwheeler and pack up the racks with supplies.
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Name: james
i use a small comoflague military issued rutsack, it is heavy duity and can stand any thang, it constantly gets dirt scent put on it and hangs out in my shed along with my traps, away from foreign scents.
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Name: Greenhorn
I use a 5-gallon bucket when trapping from the vehicle and a back-pack when on a walking line. My bucket has several holders on the outside for lure, bait etc.
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Name: Jeff Erwin
I use a canvas construction bag and a 5 gallon bucket. the bag is one of the large type with a zipper and lots of pockets on the inside as well as the out.
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Name: zach davis
Yes I do use a packbasket. I have two. I like to use a 24" with lure compartment for when I am setting fresh (Mainly for canine, etc.). I use this pack throughout the whole year, but I only use it to carry clean traps. I also use a 20" pack for when I am hauling out a big mess of coon, beaver or whatever, from the creeks or fields. The packs I use are made of wood. I am going to buy a 20" heavy duty pack so I can carry more animals at once.
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Name: Jack Turner
Yes, I use a wood packbasket. It is used for land trapping only. I use a plastic bucket for water sets.
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Name: Seth
I use a 5-gallon bucket for "set days" and on "take days" i lighten the load and only carry a large burlap bag within wich i carry some extra swivles, s-hooks ect and a small bag with bait jars. But as the hikes get longer i will probably invest in a packbasket
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Name: bclev
No, I find packbaskets to be cumbersome. I prefer 5 gallon buckets with a commercial pocket system. Packbaskets scream trapper, and may invite theft.
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Name: Kim Marie Page
I use a plastic five gallon bucket with a lid. My 10 yr old son who is my partner uses a 16 inch wooden pack basket. He likes it because he can carry it on his back whereas I don't want someting hanging on my back.
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Name: Ron Marsh
I use a basket if I am doing a walking line. Wood 24". Otherwise I use a plastic pail that I got from the local deli.
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Name: Steve Viste
I like to use the basket but I tend go through them about every other year. I like the basket with the waist strap tends to be a little easier on the back. I do like the wood. I realize it may hold some scent but I usually use it for underwater traps. I've gone mainly to snares which I make myself more cost effective and less domestic animals.
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Name: Ej
I have a wooden trapbasket with a bait compartment.
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Name: Ray
I use a bag similar to a gym bag. I do alot of walking on my line but don't carry more than what I need. Getting sets in a few weeks before the actual season opens, really cuts down on equipment carried on the line.
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Name: Hal
I have a large fiberglass packbasket. I greatly prefer the fiberglass over wood because they are more durable. They are more expensive but they will out last wood baskets 5 to 1. When I walked a lot of my traplines I always carried the packbasket. I still use it today when I have to walk very far to my sets. Especially if I'm beaver trapping. I can carry out a beaver on top of my packbasket a lot easier than any other way. But, when I am close to my vehicle or 4-wheeler, I generally use a bucket. Like others have mentioned, I have pouches tied to the outside of my bucket to hold lures gloves, etcetera.

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Skinning & Fleshing Beaver. Beaver Trappers: What method do you use for skinning and/or fleshing beaver? Clean skin? Rough skin and flesh? Partial case skin and flesh? Other method? Do you use any special techniques for fleshing beaver?

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Name: Randy
I used to flesh on a beam but could never get all the gristle(back hurt also), then I seen in a video, a man sitting down and fleshing on his knee with a sharp knife; that's how I do mine now.
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Name: Gregory Ollila
I have used both clean skin and rough skin and flesh methods. Either one is fine but I tend to rough skin and flesh. I use a necker 600 fleshing knife and fleshing a beaver with this knife makes the job fairly easy. I built a clean skinning beaver table after purchasing and viewing Hal Sullivan's clean skinning beaver video. That table sure made a difference. A good sharp knife is a must in clean skinning. Hal's skinning video's sure helped me to properly put up fur. I would highly recommend his video's to new trappers just starting out putting up fur.
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Name: John Davendonis
I like to rough skin, then flesh on a beam. Leaving some meat on helps with fleshing.
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Name: Ray Starnes
No doubt about it, this is one of the messiest animals to skin next to a fat coon. I try to clean skin them, a little extra time is worth it when not messing with fat. There isn't an easy way.
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Name: jasonm
i rough skin and sell green most of the time...but i do flesh som of them
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Name: Jeff
The only way I have ever known to skin a beaver, is to make 1 cut. And
that is from vent to nose. Then skin one side at a time meeting in the
middle. Then I like to cool the pelt, not freeze it unless I am just heavy into critters then catching will take priority. It does not hurt to freeze a hide for a couple weeks if done properly. And a cold hide will flesh a whole lot easier then a warm one. I flesh beaver as clean as I can then wipe it down often during drying. I'm always open to better ways, so if anyone has a better one I'd sure like to hear it
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Name: Steve
I have tried all methods, but I have found that in the long run, taking the time to clean skin is the way to go. If I am on trapping a long ways from the truck I will rough skin, but don't slit the pelt all the way. Stop about the front legs and case skin the rest of the way. This allows something to hang on the fleshing beam while fleshing.
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Name: Dave
I prefer to clean skin beaver. I learned from the start, because I could not flesh a beaver without putting holes in it. With clean skining I can feel the hide and tell if there is any holes in it, I could be more carefull around the holes. The fastest I can clean skin is 20 min. I still have a little trouble around the feet.
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Name: Zach Ellis
I have only skinned one beaver and boy was it tuff. Me and a buddy rough skinned it and by the time I got done fleshing I couldn't feel my arms. It made a pretty pelt though.
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Name: Hal
I clean skin my beaver. I don't make any claims for this being faster than rough skinning and fleshing. It's not. Bottom line -- there's just no "easy" way to put up a beaver. But clean skinning does require less energy than laboring over a fleshing beam. That's the main advantage in my opinion.

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Stretching Beaver. Beaver Trappers: Do you stretch your beaver on hoops or boards? Why?

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Name: Tuskettrapperman
I use plywood because I can put 2 to a board and I ship to NAFA and they say in their manual that totally round beaver will be weak in the area around the legs and might be downgraded, so its oval for me. Our limit here is only nine so its not all that big of a deal here.
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Name: Adam 17 Newport Arkansas
I prefer a board to stretch beaver hide because , i can make my own board and it is a whole lot cheaper .
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Name: John Davendonis
I like to streach my beavers on a hoop if they measure over 55 in. If they measure over 55, I like a hoop because they are quicker easier for me, and I always get a natural oval shape.
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Name: jasonm
i stretch on boards.. i tried hoops but can tack a beaver on a board a lot faster.
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Name: Ray Starnes
Generally, boards. For me, its easier to remove nails than hog rings. And I get a better shape using boards.
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Name: Jeff
I stretch my beaver hide's on boards, only because I have never used a
hoop. The expense of them with the amount of beaver I catch just have not made it worth while to me to buy hoops with the price of fur right now.
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Name: Dave
I prefer the boards. I like the pattern it gives a more even stretch.
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Name: Aaron
I stretch on hoops, because I have a bunch of them that were given to me, and they take up a lot less storage space than plywood does.

I use thin gauge wire to stretch the pelt with. I pre-cut hundreds of 4" wires before the season, and use them every 3/4" to 1" around the pelt. I can adjust the stretching tension by just twisting the wires tighter or looser, Seems to work good for me.
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Name: Zach Ellis
I stretched the ones I caught this year on plywood. I plan to order some beaver hoops for next year.
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Name: Skier
I stretch my beaver on 3 by 3 peices of plywood. One reason is because boards are cheaper.
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Name: Larry Olson
I still have the first hoop I ever bought, it doesn't get near the use my plywood panels do. I salvaged the plywood from different sources. Why? I am a cheapskate I guess LOL!
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Name: Scottrw
I stretch my beaver on boards because its the only way I ever knew how
to do it. And to give the pelts the correct "canadian stretch" shape.
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Name: trapperjason
Boards all the way. You can size them how you want, and they are very easy to make, trace a beaver pattern. I do not know what hoops are, but I guess they would also work.
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Name: Greenhorn
I use boards because I can do a better job of putting up the fur with them. I also use a staple gun to attach the hide which for me is a lot faster than using nails.
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Name: zach davis
I stretch all of the small to medium (ocassionly lg & xl-xxl) beaver's on board, but occasionally I will use a hoop. I like to use boards because I can get the more desired oval shape which most canadian auction houses prefer. Sure you have to do a little more work, but if that can get you the extra bucks, who cares.
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Name: Seth
I perfer plywood boards because the produce a "pretty" uniform oval shape and is, i find, alot faster and more effecient than hoops because a can put two pelts on each board.(one on front, one on back)
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Name: Steve Viste
A long time ago my grandfather show me the quickest way to flesh and put up a beaver on a board. I beleive that the board can really show your work. TIP. Don't stretch your beaver to tight. I've found out on the market that a good quility beaver which will tan nice is a hide that is thick. Thats what they're looking for.
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Name: Ray
I have always used plywood. The oval shape is easier to obtain and removing nails and relocating them are easier than opening and closing hooks.
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Name: Hal
I stretch my beaver on boards. My boards are 32" by 48". You can cut three of them from one sheet of plywood. I strongly recommend you use plywood 5/8" thick or thicker. The thinner stuff is just too springy as you try to drive nails into it. Also, I would stay away from the "chip board" products. They have hard spots in them. For nails, I use 4 penny box nails. These are very thin nails and they drive easily.

I use boards mainly because of space constraints in my fur shed. If you use hoops (and I have nothing against them) you need some kind of table to lay your work on. Using a plywood board, I can just prop it against the wall and nail on a pelt while I set on a bucket. Also, using this method, I can nail a pelt on each side of the stretcher. In the corner of the fur shed, I have a rack that holds the boards spaced about six inches apart for drying.

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Remake Sets. Canine Trappers: How do you execute a remake set after you have caught an animal, canine or otherwise.

Name: mark culwell
I have caght alot of reds with a simple dirthole in the mound in the middle of the catch circle . I set & fire the trap to make sure it is in working order. Then I set it right back in there.
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Name: justin mewes
I set the trap in the same spot. Then i take the grass or what ever is around at that set and make it look like new.
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Name: diesel
if you catch a coyote in a trap you should consider it a hotspot. I expect to catch an animal there the next day. just put all the loose dirt in your sifter of your remake bucket and use that to sift back over the trap. Just dig your trap bed and reset it and put a hole where you want it, and rebait . that easy. it doesent matter if the place looks tore up. they dont care. also you can use anything as a backer. for example, take some more of the loose dirt that you didnt use in you're sifter and make a pile behind your hole.
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Name: Mike
Fox and coyote, I try to level out the catch pattern/circle. If you use pan covers, cotton balls or swabs for lure, try to find and remove them. I don't like blood in my catch circle, so I try to get most of it out of the pattern. (I feel fox will shy away from blood in the catch pattern) I use the same trap but try to remove all of the blood and hair. re-make the set as it was using fresh pan cover and lure holder. The catch pattern smells like fox or coyote, and has lots of eye appeal. Now might be the time to place a second set very close to the first pattern. You may pick up a double, or a shy fox or coyote that is curious but won't enter the catch pattern.(a flat set works great here) Skunk and opossum, I have never had a problem catching a fox or a coyote in a trap that has caught a opossum, re-make as above.
However, I have mixed opinions about skunks. Some take fox the next night, some nevr seem the same. I think that if the skunk does not spray to much, ie the sent isin't overpowering, I remake the set and place another set nearby. If the trap and set reeks of skunk, the best bet is to pull the trap and make one or more fresh sets nearby. The skunk sent and eye appeal brings the fox in, a good, working fox/coyote set catches the animal. Two more thoughts, in open country, by placing sets out away from brush and hedges you will take more fox and coyote, but less skunks/opossums. By pulling skunky traps, and catching the animal in another set nearby, you will have a cleaner pelt to work with. I don't know about you, but I'd rater handle a clean fox than one that has spent the night rolling in skunk spray!
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Name: Ray
I change to a new fresh trap, rebed the trap as before, use all the scented dirt or chaff from the captured animal to complete the set as the first time. If it is torn up too much to use, move it over several feet outside the captured circle.
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Name: boon
Depending on what was caught lets say a fox, if it was a dirt hole remake into a chaff set. If larger canine a post or flat set just outside the catch circle.
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Name: trappnman
It depends on the set. I have very good success with remakes on stepdown dirtholes, so I remake all such sets back into stepdowns. So bascly I have a stepdown set in the middle of a catch circle. On any other type of set, I remake it into a walkthrough set. I pile ground debris in a loaf (3-4 feet long on the backing side, somewhat smaller on the opposite side) with the trap between in the original bed. I like to curve the loafs so the set has a "bowtie" look when viewed. I like to lure the ends of the backing loaf either in the clutter or in a rerod hole. Smooth out the walkway somewhat, but leave the rest of the circle as is. I sometimes take a dropping and use it as a jaw guard but more often just leave the droppings scattered. I have more success on remakes by misting the entire area lightly with urine. I know a lot of people disagree with this- but I have tried it both ways a couple of times and continue to do better by misting.
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Name: dan
I always try to reset in the trap circle.
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Name: cat' trapper
find a diffrent set within 20 yards or so and use a diffrent lure. the catch circle will act as an visual attractant but the other animal will be carefull so make shure you have clean traps.
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Name: adam
I find where the raccoon' s have been walking shores of creeks and after i trap one i just move my traps 100 yrds. I trap them by the rows .
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Name: Brian
I havent been trapping in a couple years but some stuff ya never forget. usually what i do after i catch a coyote is take all the chaff, grass, etc and scrape it all up into one big pile and ream a hole in it with a stake. then I'll set the orignal trap in front of it kinda like a dirt mound set. Really no need for urine or other scents on this set cause of all the scents left from the previous coyote.
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Name: Carl Chinn
I like a set best after it has it's "ring". If it were a dirthole (as 95% of mine are), and the hole is still there or can be re-dug effectivelly I continue to use it. I clean the trap off with local dirt, snap it a time or two to fling off blood, and simply reset it. I often put a fox (or coyote or coon, or whatever) foot in the hole, nailed down with a gutter-spike and lure on it in a re-made hole.
I will relure & rebait it but seldom apply fresh urine. As soon as I shoot an animal, I make certain he is lying about 3 feet away from the trap bed on the back side of the hole. I lay him in such a way as to not bleed on too much of his own pelt. I pick him up the very last thing and make no effort to remove his blood from where he laid. No animal bothers me enough to move the set.
The only thing I am particular about is the trap bed itself and the trap. If the trap is simply too dirty to clean, I will put in a new one, but that is a rare thing.
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Name: MB
I try to re-make into the original set. I always re-make the set and have a clean or fresh set nearby.
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Name: AARON
I make two piles about six inches apart. set trap in middel add lure, urin, bait at the edge of the pile closest to the trap. it's kind of a walk through set. i learned it from a book by dobbins.
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Name: Hal
I use a few variations, but primarily I remake a land set as a dirthole set. If it was a dirthole, I clean out the hole and rebed the trap. (In cleaning out an old dirthole, make sure you don't scatter bait into your trap bed. This could cause digging on a subsequent visit.) Sometimes I will actually dig a new hole, but still using the same bed. I replace the backing for the dirthole, or often I rake up debris from the catch circle and make a backing out of that. I don't change the trap unless there's too much of the coating worn off. I wipe the trap off with clean dirt if there are any fluids present. You don't need a clean trap at a dirty set. I almost always present a remake as a "food opportunity" set. In other words, I use bait in the bottom of the hole, or often times, a food lure in the bottom of the hole. I don't add any other kinds of lure to a remake.

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Notebooks. All trappers: Do you keep a notebook on your trapline? What kind of information do you record?

Name: Ray
Date, weather, set and location. Any particulars that might have helped this set location to connect. Treat it like a reference for possible problems in th3e future.
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Name: old number 7
In Oregon we are required to file a harvest report form with the fish and wildlife office if we want to get a liscense for the following year. the form includes the county you trap in, the species targeted, number of nights trapping, average number of traps set, and number released for each animal. If the form doesn't get turned in by April 15 I don't get to renew my license for the following season. Even if you didn't catch anything. So I do in some way keep a note book even if it's not for me.
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Name: Mike
I tryed this once!!! A few years ago, I had the bright idea to keep track of as much data about my Fox/coyote line as I could. I created a log with tables for variables such as; Trap size, set type, urine?, lure type, bait type, antifreeze?, catches? and so on and so on. My intentions were pure, however I think that the log lasted about 2 days. There is so much work involved in running a line that I didn't have time to consult the log everytime I wanted to adjust something. I think trapping is fun, I do plenty of paperwork at work! If I could hire someone to ride with me to record and crunch data, I think that at the end of the year, there may be some value in this info. I do believe that a few notes can help you remember set locations and other tid bits of info, I just don't over do it. I can run about 100 fox sets, give or take a few, and I have never needed a notebook to find them all. I guess what I'm trying to say is: Notes are good, novels are not!
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Name: trappnman
When I first starting trapping seriously many moons ago, I kept a notebook full of details. I kept track of fired traps, lures, baits, successes, misses, etc on and on. In additon I kept full maps, daily logs of animals, yearly totals and value estimates logs. Over the years I have simplfied this a lot- thanks to the computer. Now I keep totals and estimates on the computer and just use a notebook for mapping out the line. I like to have this book be accurate at least as to side of road(creek), relationship to other traps, etc. Comes in handy everyone in a while. On canine traps, I kept track of what I first lure a new set with- after that I mix and match lures so often that it just gets too confusing keeping track. regarding success of individual traps, etc- I found this information took too much time to compile and really served no purpose. I map out the line as I go and spend 5-10 minutes a day on "paperwork" on the computer regarding daily line management as stated above.
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Name: Jack Turner
Absolutely. It gets more tedious over the years as the number of traps that I set increases. However, this can be a real asset as one can see what baits and lures have worked and under what kinds of conditions. One can also see what sets produce the most fur and at what locations. Here is what my notebook info contains:

Place-Johnson Res., Location-Creek, Set-Pocket, Trap- 1 1/2cs, Lure/Bait-Fish Oil, Result- Male coon, Additional Notes- 2 inches of snow, 25 degrees
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Name: Mrfox
I just started to keep one last year. I have a ringed-binder that I keep notes and articles in. In the front of the book I have a spreadsheet that I did on my computer which contains redords of all sets. The info that I record about my sets are date, location, number of days set has been in use, type of set, lure and/or bait type, species caught, weather, and other useful notes.
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Name: cat' killer
If you use a notebook record how many traps and there location, use landmarks strange rock formations or anything that stands out to find your trap, also record what type of scent you are using and if it worked this will let you know what the animals like best.
as for me i use a GPS it is smaller and no one can find your sets if you loose it unless they know what 001cg stands for (one trap used cat gland lure)
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Name: Mike Catts
I keep a small note book in my pack. Each page is dedicated to a specific location and contains the type and number of traps set, the type of sets, what lure/bait was used and then what was caught. Misc. notes would include info such as weather, other sign seen etc.
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Name: Carl Chinn
I believe "that which get's measured -- get's managed". I not only keep records, I now input them into an excel spreadsheet so I can trend things. Now that some of my journals are 30 years old, it is fun going back and reading them.

There is a genuine call for accuracy when keeping such records. Keep ACCURATE records, don't try and impress yourself. What get's measured -- get's managed, and you must deal with accuracy to improve efficiency (not unlike golf I am told).
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Name: Mallard
I keep a very detailed notebook. The 1st sheet has a general description of location, type of set, and check records indication what was caught and when. Each set has a coresponding number to reference on my "sketch" sheet. The sketch sheet has a rough map of each stop with land marks and such referenced, pinpointing the location. Being that I am the only one aware of where most of my sets are, this "sketch" page is more for an instance where I'm in an accident or something that would require someone else to pull the steel. I also keep daily weather "actuals" that I can cross reference with the catch records (at seasons end)to establish high and low fur movements. It's time consuming, but well worth it in my opinion.
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Name: MB
Yes. Landowner's name, location and type of sets, lures and/or baits used and desired catch or target animal. This is on land sets and for snares.

For water sets I sometimes just list the landowner and # of traps set.

A notebook is very important for snares as they are very easy to "walk by" if you don't mark your locations with flagging.
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Name: John Porter--aka -TraplineMusher
A notebook is mandatory as far as I am concerned, as I run a longline (417 sets for the 2002 season). I write down the waterway or location, number of sets, type of sets, and which traps I used. For an example my page would look like this for a water way.
Webster Brook- Rt.159. 4 sets, 2 blind, 2 cubbies baited with muskrat, lure--homemade.
I leave a space so I can record the catches for future references. Also when I pull a set I draw a line through it-- but make sure I leave it so I can still read the complete page. That way at the end of the year, I can do a complete record to use for next season.
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Name: L. Olson
I keep a note book in my van all year long. It is especially useful during my pre-season scouting, or when I am fishing or hunting. I note good set locations, descriptions, sign, what type of trap is best for the situation, that way I have can make a list of what I will need to bring an each particular line.
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Name: opposumtrapper
I keep a notebook of all my traps set what bait i used what i caught good sets if there where any tracks near where different trails are # of traps in basket. Hope that helps
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Name: Hal
I keep a notebook, and have for a long time. I used to keep some pretty extensive notes on canine sets in my younger days. Location, Type of set, Type of lure, Type of trap, then a daily log on the activity of that set. I had some notebook pages that I could Xerox off that had lines and columns for this info. Plus a large space for miscellaneous notes. I'll admit that I don't keep as extensive notes now, but I also know it helped me progress faster back then. I still keep fairly good notes, but they are more in the form of a daily journal now. I still keep pretty close records on my beaver, and especially otter. Otter have to be tagged, and I organize on the pertinent information to fill out the paperwork on each catch. I record date location, both specific and general, type of set, type of trap, sex and weight of each otter. As mentioned above, it's not only fun to review your trapping data from over the years, it can also make you a better trapper.

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Scouting. All trappers: How much scouting do you do before the season starts? What do you look for when you are scouting? Where do you look?

Name: Dan Shaw
Before season starts? I guess I would have to say, I never really quit scouting. Usually in July and Aug I do take a little break, but even then I will be traveling around asking farmers if i can trap there, and doing very little actual walking around. But my dog usually keeps me on my toes, taking her out and getting her exercised. When I'm scouting I look for everything, from scat to hair on barb wire fences. I look in area's that I deemed too little activity for last year, and look and see if the situation has changed at all. I also watch corn feilds to try to find major critter entrences, exits and where they are taking the corn. But soon the corn will be out, they usually won't use the trails as much, but they do tend to check where they been eating the corn, the coons are a little more relaxed and probly happy to smell corn before my trap sets on them. I guess what I look for is an endless list, could go on and on. I will occasionaly set up a sent post and just check it for activity the following days. Then when season gets there, i place a trap and refresh the post. I've gotten a few yotes and fox this way. I will also take 5 gallon buckets and bait them with apples and other sweet fruit and marshmallows to get the coons ready for the bucket set. Then when season gets here, i'll change them up, and Bam! Seems like they kind of let there guard down. And finaly where do i look? Everywhere from my Private fishen holes, to the junk yard and swamp accross the street from my house, I dig roots, that keeps me out in the woods when most are not.
Danno
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Name: Derek Van Buren
At least the last month before the season, depending what I'm scouting for. Beaver and Muskrat are very obvious when you find them. As for predators like fox and coyote, I scout out sandy areas and wood lines. I especially look around early growth jack pine for tracks and scat. I'm usually out scouting for them in late august and I scout for water critters about the beginning of grouse season here in Michigan, which is September 15th.
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Name: trappnman
I have to admit, that the longer I am in the game, the less scouting I do. I trap roughly the same areas year after year, and except for crop rotations and population changes, things stay much the same. HOWEVER- I strongly recommend preseason scouting for those that are new to the sport or expanding their lines.

I should also point out that I am in the same fields on these same farms for most of the year, so in a way I am always scouting.
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Name: DONOVAN
quite a bit, I look for culverts with land underneath on either side of stream, with many rocks at the waters edge that crayfish would be under. rocks can be used to fence a raccoon in.
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Name: jocko
that is hard to say, i trap the same farms year after year an i set in the same spot an catch fox. now if i do get permmision to trap another farm i scoutin the most likey spots, an look for tracks an droppings, i look at corners an edges an naturel barrers to where they intersect the key is find the busy intersection, an you`l catch.
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Name: mark d. stackhouse
i do quite a bit of scouting before season, starting usually in august. most of it done later on in october. i will also start premaking sets at this time to, mostly arranging things for better blind set sites, digging pocket sets, dirt hole sets, arranging or rearranging things on trails for snares and conibears, etc. i look for trails, tracks, droppings, slides, dens, feeding sites, fresh or old animal or fish remains, grass water ways, crop change ups, tree lines, brush piles, rock piles. look for natural funnels were the animals travel, narrow spots along the watercourse or in a trail. undercut banks, washed out tree root systems, look for lone trees on crop changes or along a farm lane. look around any tile opening, no matter how big or small. look around any bridge, or culvert. check out all mouths of smaller watercourse feeding into larger ones. look for den trees and trails around them. look for grass cuttings and feed beds, feed piles of limbs for beaver. also pay attension to the types of crops growing in the area, where berry patches or nut trees are, weed patches.
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Name: Maineman
Scouting is a very big part of my trapline, I check streams, pond & rivers after a rain to see how much they rise and fall. The ponds are mostly stable and try to find dens, holes, etc.
I also put out stakes in the wood in bundles of 25 less to lug in canoe on opening day .
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Name: Ray Starnes
Actual scouting is one month before the opening season. Anytime before that and animal patterns could change. I look for tracks, scat, trails, dens, and quite possibly the target animals themselves. I look around water or waterways, old buildings, ditches, edges of fields, ect.
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Name: jake
I do as much scouting as I can all year long that's how to get the best season. I look numbers like a lot of tracks trails.
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Name: STEVE CALLAHAN
because food sources may change (crop harvests, etc.) i generaly start scouting about two weeks before season. i check all the areas i have permission to trap (make sure you get permission from the land owner). i check all water areas for trails leading to them and water edges for tracks, droppings, and den holes. i check fields for tracks and droppigs. if you are new to trapping buy a couple of video's and books. for fox and coyote try (canines 2000 book & video combination) and for beaver try (beaver 2000 book & video combination). both these are excellently illustrated by hal sullivan and can be purchased from his web site. for water trapping i would suggest video's by charles dobbins or tom miranda to get you started.
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Name: Mike
I trap fox and coyotes in WI. A good location 10 years ago will be a good location today (if nothing has changed the lay of the land) Look for funnels, intersections, and natural or man made blockages. These animals will use them year in and year out. I don't think you need to go out and cut sign, however it is a bonus when you do!
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Name: Wade McArthur
I usually just go to each of the places I have permission on once. I look for concentrations of signs like tracks, droppings, etc., along the river or stream first since water trapping is my main focus. I don't write anything down, I keep a few good spots in my mind so I can move quick and set those locations first on opening day. I'll fill in any "holes" later as I get times. My main focus is usually to get some traps set everywhere I have permission on the first day.
If I have time while scouting, I'll check cattle and deer trails and look for fence crossings, otherwise, I'll do this while I check traps during the season. I won't set traps for coyotes until after the river freezes anyway so there is no hurry.
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Name: wv fox foot
trapping is just like hunting! scouting is a must. it allways pays to do a little homework.
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Name: Glenn
I do a much scouting as I can. It's a hobby of mine. I never miss an opportunity to hone my trailing and tracking skills. As I am predominatly a blind setter I have to know which way the animal went and where he is going. What I look for are tracks, scat and hair left on weeds or briars along trails. I also look for dens. Where I look is pretty much determined by what species I am looking for. Naturally if I'm looking for coon. mink or muskrat I'm along water. I always check out cornfields near water for coon and muskrat activity. When I'm looking for foxes I'm scouting along the edges of fields, farm roads and woodlot trails. Intersections of farm roads are generally hotspots. Close examination of soft ground here will often reveal telltale sign. In closing this off when you are scouting for fur sign learn to walk with your head down. You aren't going to find any fox, coon or coyote sign up in the trees. Their sign is on the ground right in front of you and you must be careful where you step or you will mash down the evidence.
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Name: old number 7
I am always scouting. every time I see a road kill I know there is more of the same animal in the area. camping and fishin durring the summer is a great time to scout. I like to take a drive in the evening on the gravel roads just to see what is out there. this year I found bobcat scat all over an area that I have been fishing for a couple of years. most of the roads are closed and I decided to take a walk down some of them. you would be suprised at what you will see if you go donw the road that is less traveled than others.
I look for scat, tracks and trails through brush. I mainly look close to water supplies. nothing can live without water.
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Name: Jack Turner
To be honest, I don't do much scouting until about 4-6 weeks prior to the trapping season. The heat and heavy cover keep me from wanting to do scouting in the summer. Sure if I'm along a path or waterway I'll look around, but that's about it. Once I start scouting, I do so two or three times a week at the various locations. I look around water, crop field edges, tractor lanes, fence lines, brush or log piles etc. I look for prints, scat, dens, trails, feeding sites and entrances in and out of water.
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Name: neil1
The first thing I look for is private access, either for or to a stream/marsh or fox grounds. Private means I'm the only trapper or vehicle access that is screened from prying eyes. Next, I look for set locations, wind direction, pods of fur along streams/usually related to cover &/or food. I want to be able to get in & out quickly & onto the next spot. Just because there is fur doesn't mean that it's a good place to trap. Outside of muskrats, most fur is mobile & can be caught & held if privacy for the animal & access for me is given. Spots that are not private are usually "hit & run" spots. Family groups & overlapping territories are the hot areas. Don't overscout, sign in early fall shows residents, more will come visit. Scouting is year-round, watch for hard winters & litter-loss in spring d/t various factors. Remember spring conditions before fall scouting. This will save you leg work. Good travel lanes, denning areas, food sources usually don't change much from year to year.
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Name: Michael
Just a couple of weeks before season I go mostly on what the Farmers tell where they've seen foxes and coyotes. That's worked good so far
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Name: Hal
I'm with some of the other old-timers. I don't do a lot of extensive pre-season scouting on my established trapline. I new place is different. I'll try to look it over a week or two prior to the season. I don't like to scout too early because travel patterns can change, especially in farming country with the removal of the crops. I do, however, travel at least once over a trapline before I set any traps. For canines, the first place I'm going to check is any farm lane or tractor road that intersects the property. I'm looking primarily for tracks and droppings. If the weather's been dry, with no rain, droppings may actually be easier to find than tracks. In the water, I'm looking for brushy shorelines, undercut banks, of course bridges and culverts, and other places that funnel the movements of animals. Again, I'm looking for tracks, and these are usually easier to find at the water's edge.

I will, however, recommend that beginning trappers scout as much as they can. It helps you to develop your sign reading ability, and it helps you to identify features that signal good location. There's no shortcut to learning these things.

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Dry Dirt. Land Trappers: Do you gather dry dirt before the start of trapping season? What type of dirt do you gather, and how do you dry and store it?

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Name: trappnman
I am lucky that I have plenty of pocket gopher mounds where I live. In my opinion, dirt from their mounds is absolutely perfect for trapping- it is in effect presifted, and in fact I seldom if ever sift it when using it at sets. I gather it 5 gals at a time, and take it home to dry. I spread it out on a plywood board so it is an inch or 2 deep and stir it once in a while during the day. After 1 day, it is bone dry and I place it in large cardboard barrels- this seems to reduce condensation like you get in plastic or metal barrels.
Another advantage to the gopher dirt is that the color and consistency of the dirt is readily apparent on the site and I can get the exact type of dirt I want. I usually store 4 big barrels, and that so far wil last me for the season.
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Name: mark d. stackhouse
i always keep a 55 gallon sized container full of dry dirt. i bought a weather proof heavy plastic trash container that's on wheels to store dirt in. best place i've found to get dirt is from under bridges. next best is from inside old abandoned barns. i usually get a couple of 5 gallon buckets at a time, sift it out on to a clean tarp ,laying in the sun. do this early in the morning. then before the sung oes down, i sift it again and put in the storage container. i only get dirt when its been dry for a week or more, one reason i keep quite alot of it ahead. sometimes i need to leave it out in the sun more, if i do, i sift it more before putting away. always get more than you think you will use, twice as much is a good rule. a cheap plastic trash can will work for storing dirt, wash it out good, and let set open in the sun a week before using.
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Name: Maineman
I use anthhill dirt, peat moss primarily if its real dampish I go under bridges and gather sifted dirt there.
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Name: Ray Starnes
The dirt I gather is the same as in the area I know I'll trap in the Fall or Winter. I lay out several rows of it on a dry sheet of plywood and turn it when it looks fully dry. It gets stored in a heated area of the basement with a lid on the container. This also helps to keep out odors.
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Name: Mike
Dry dirt is REALLY nice to have when everything around you is wet or frozen. Check under bridges in you trapping area, look for same soil type/color. You can make good freeze-proof dirt in the summer by collecting it, drying it in the sun-plastic covered plywood on saw horses works nice. Add soft wax (in flake form) 1 part wax to 4 parts dirt is a good starting point. The sun will melt the wax, you need to mix it up with the dirt. Test by placing a small amount of dirt in a glass of water. When you get the mix right, you will be able to pour off all the water and the dirt will still be dry. A little pre-season work really pays off when the temp goes south.
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Name: Trapper62
Yep, I collect and dry about 30 gallons of dirt. I usually collect from badger mounds/diggings as it is very fine. I sift it and then lay it out on a tarp until dry, then store until needed.
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Name: old number 7
I don't gather dirt before trapping season. I live in the Wilamette valley in Oregon and all it does is rain from november to may. I cover my sets with leaves and grass or what ever is in the surrounding environment.
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Name: JOHN WARNER
No. While scouting for trap locations in the pre season I'm also scouting for up-rooted trees. The dirt is very fine and is always dry in spite of weather conditions. I always carry a clean 5 gal. Bucket and fill it when necessary. Sounds corny but it saves leg work plus you always have fresh, clean, dry dirt.
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Name: Heimbrock
Yes, It is gathered before the start of the trapping season or after the close of the previous trapping season. Failing that is gathered during season.
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Name: Waz
Until this year, I didn't gather dry dirt before the start of fox season. I used to buy waxed dirt(Mark Junes) and would purchase 5-10 bags at a time. Now that he is no longer a dealer and I don't want to pay $11 a bag, I am collecting my own dry dirt from a field, and storing it in 2 25 gallon trash cans that I washed out. I am gonna try to use glycol as an antifreeze, otherwise next year I might have to wax my own dirt if I can find the time.
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Name: Jack Turner
Yes, I normally gather 15-20 gallons of dry dirt a year, but needed to increase that this year due to increased land availability. I store it in 5 gallon buckets with a lid. I'm not real picky on type of dirt, but stay away from clay soil and sandy soil. I obtain this during the summer and then lay it out on plywood to dry real good. If I can obtain dry or semi-dry dirt on the trapline during the season, this is what I use to cover my traps. Only when I'm unable to find it near my sets will I use the dirt I collected during the summer.
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Name: Trapper B.
For canine sets I use the dry dirt from the pen that we raise pheasants in. It just adds an extra scent appeal. This is collected well in advance of the season.....works great!
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Name: Michael
I gather any kinda of dirt and mix it with some peat moss and a little anti freeze. I gather it all the time and store it in plastic buckets
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Name: Hal
I always try to keep a supply of dry dirt. One of my old stand-by's is dirt collected from under a rotting log. This is no so much dirt as it is half-decomposed wood, somewhat similar to peat moss. (In a pinch, I have used peat moss). I pre-sift the "dirt" and dry it on a piece of plywood and store it in a fiber container. But the truth is, I really don't like totally dry dirt. It's impossible to pack and makes trap bedding hard. Usually, I gather dirt right along my trapline. From upturned tree roots, bulldozer piles, under bridges, under buildings, etc. This dirt is usually moist, and easier to work with. One of my favorite sources for this dirt (similar to what others have mentioned) is old ground hog burrows in or underneath old buildings. Of course in sub-freezing weather, this dirt freezes too, and I'm then dipping into my truly dry dirt.

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Drowning Sets. Water Trappers: What are your methods for creating a lethal drowning set?

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Name: Greenhorn
For coon or beaver I use slide wire and a bag.
For mink or rats I just stake in deeper waster and use wire as an extension if needed.
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Name: Sibley IL. trapper
one stake in deep water with wire run to stake on the bank with the trap fastend with drowning lock.
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Name: M. Gruber
At present I use wire that's staked at both ends, running through the swivel with one rivet removed. This only acounts for about 3% of my sets.
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Name: Don Adams
I usually use 3/32 cable and I have a loop at one end for the stake at the bank and one for the weight in the bottom of the creek. I usually use a drowning lock on the cable and use a quick link to attach the trap to the drowning lock. The weight is sometimes a railroad tie plate or a feedback with lots of rocks. Or cement blocks if there are any around.
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Name: trappnman
1) For mink and rats I use a length of #9 wire attached to a stake or anchor. I like this wire to be angled downstream and in at least 2 feet of water- 3 is even better.
2) For beaver- I just about always use a slide wire attached to a bottom anchor- usually a filled sand bag, occasionally a concrete block or metal weights. To be sure, I like water at least 4 feet deep.
3) For coon, a slide wire hooked to either a bottom stake or to a weight. I like water at least 3 feet deep for coon.
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Name: Jim Severing
Depends on what im trapping for. Beaver, otter and sometimes coon, I like to rig up a drowning cable. Muskrats, mink and under the right conditions coon, I like to use a heavey trap such as a No.1 1\2 longspring, about two feet of wire and a tangle stake.
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Name: Pat Brenden
In water trapping I make primarly pocket sets or pvc sets. When running the wire slide I always try to set in water at least 1 foot deep. I have found that very few coon survive the night at this water depth. In hot areas where I cannot find this depth, I will take my tile spade and form a trench out about 3 feet long, 1 foot wide and about 1 foot deep. I than achor my wire slide in the far end of this trench and I shorten my chain to just a few links using an S-hook that is connected to the drowner. This keeps the trap lower in the water and the coon from being able to get to the shallow water. Once in a while I will have a live one but for the most part this proves to be lethal even in very shallow water.
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Name: Jack Turner Jr.
I used to use 14 guage wire, but now use 11 at most sets. I can catch many furbearers without having to change the wire. This is also advantageous because I can drown muskrats, mink, coon or beaver without having to worry if I had strong enough wire. I twist one end of the wire to the bank (a root, tree, stake etc.) and the other end of the wire is twisted to something in deep water. This could be a rock/dirt filled sack, a cement block, a stake, railroad tie plate etc. The trap chain has a universal swivel at the end for the trap to slide down the wire.
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Name: Nick Biscotti
I have found that during the summer, I gather small coffee cans, large empty cans that had fruit in them and fill them with QuikCrete, cement. I put a eyelet in the middle to attach the drowning wire. These have sufficient weight to kill most rats, mink and coon.
I take these to my rivers and ponds during off season and grab them when i am setting. Or i take them out to locations while i am fishing.
Just use a small stake either wood or metal at the one end near shore and a slide wire 5 ft long anchored on the can of cement. Works really well.
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Name: mike lance nebr.
Slidewire w/a foothold, extra chain or wire with a bodygrip, ice with a snare
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Name: trapperjack
drop a cement block in deep water with a wire on it and tie the wire to a wood stake on the land. put a trap with a drowner lock on the wire and set whatever set that fits the situation. also a stake in deep water will work as good as a cement block.
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Name: Hal
It looks like the majority here go for a slide wire system, especially for the larger animals. So do I. All my water traps are equipped with some type of sliding lock, usually a swivel with one rivet left out. I use a couple kinds of wire. 14 gauge for smaller animals, eleven gauge for larger animals. Over the last few years, I've gone to cable for the majority of my beaver traps. It holds up much better than wire. Generally at the shallow end of the slide wire, I use a stake. I use several methods on the deep end. If I can wade out, sometimes I drive a stake for the deep end. But most of the time I use an anchor. I'll use a concrete block if one is handy. Otherwise, I fill a feed sack with an appropriate weight of dirt, rocks, stones, or whatever is handy to make the anchor.

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Lethal Coon Sets. Coon Trappers: Approximately what proportion of your sets are lethal? Are these primarily bodygrip sets or drowning sets and in what proportion?

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Name: Chris Sherwood
Where I trap here in Upstate NY, I try to keep from using lethal sets unless I am 100% sure I won't make an accidental catch. Unfortunately we are not as rural as some of us would like here and there are a lot of stray dogs and cats running around. When I DO have the opportunity to use a lethal set, I go with footholds rigged up to a wire for a drowning set. But as I previously stated, I rarely use lethal sets.
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Name: Greenhorn
Email: cisaak@csicable.net
About 25% percent are lethal with bodygrips accounting for most of these lethal sets.
Most of my coon are caught using footholds in a dryland or along a shallow waterway setting.
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Name: J Vail
All my sets are lethal. Just because, for me, I can get more bucket sets out in a day using conibears than foot holds.
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Name: Justin Ratcliffe,14,Virginia
Most of my sets for coon are cubbie sets. More than 60% of my coon sets are leathal. It is a shure fire way of trapping coon.
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Name: M. Gruber
100%. 95% trail sets with 220's, the rest baited boxes with conis and a few pockets set up to drown.
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Name: TrapperT
Almost all of my coon sets are non lehtal for the simple fact that there are so many pets where I trap and cannot risk having a lethal set. Also most of my sets are on dry land and can't use a drowning set up.
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Name: coonanfox01
I would have to say that 98% of my coon sets last year were lethal. I trap coons around cornfields looking for trails through the weeds that border the fields. A #220 fits nicely in these trails. I don't go out of my way to set near water but if it is convenient I'll set a #1 coil near a waterway. Still, I don't make a drowning set here because of the fact that I hate soggy coons.
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Name: John Warner
I would have to say that about 5% of my coon sets are lethal in the early season. All of the lethal sets in the early season are body grip sets. After the water season opens here in Western New York about 50% of my coon sets are lethal. During the later, about 85% of my lethal coon sets are by drowning sets and about 15% body grip sets.
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Name: Don Adams
I would say 20 percent are drowning sets. I usually use more snares than footholds. Now if I'm just setting along the creek - 100% of my footholds are set up for drowning.
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Name: trappnman
It depends on the time of year and whether I am trapping water or land. I much prefer to set footholds over 220s. On land therefore, all my sets are non lethal sets. In early water season, when the fur is really moving and I am checking my entire line everyday, I use a lot of "long branch" drags in shallow creeks. This is a non lethal capture also. BTW, I get very few hypothermia deaths. After the first few weeks, I can go to a 3 day check for lethal sets, so I put all my coon sets on slide wires. I have found a minimum of #11 wire needs to be used to avoid the coon kinking the wire. In deep water I like the old sandbag filled with rocks trick- but this is only reliable in water 4 feet or deeper. Any shallower and an occasional big coon will pull your weight out. On any bottom where I can put in a stake on the bottom side, I do. That way I know he will be down the wire.
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Name: Jim Severing
I like a heavy drag for coon and would guess probably only about three percent or so of my coon sets with footholds are lethal. I don't use conibears for coon unless, I'm real sure rover isn't on the loose, and real dam sure im not gonna catch someones grand night champion in the set, which usally means water with the conibears and if im in the water im most likly gonna reach for a foothold unless that perfect blind set that a 220 fits into like a glove presents itself, I dont like to use bait in a set a dog can reach with the bigger conibears, so mabye a 1\2 a percent to one percent for bodygrip traps.
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Name: Pat Brenden
I would say that every trap that is intentionally set for coon is set in a lethal setup, either a drowning set or a 220 trail or bucket set, about 50/50 of each drowning set vs land sets.
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Name: Nick Biscotti
About 35% of my sets are lethal. We cannot use anything above a 160 Connibear on land in Ohio so mine are drowning sets made with slide wires and foothold traps.
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Name: mike lance nebr
I assume you mean lethal = death by the trap or trap and situation (drowner and deep h2o). I try to make as many as I can make and still be assured non-targets are eliminated or minimized. Drowning sets dominate due to our every other day check for drowners. The thousands of bird dogs/hunters in the areas I trap dictate I hide the catch. I can be just as selective with the 220 sized bodygrip but can't hide the coon as esily. I have some baited dog proof 220 sets used at spots where I can also hide the coon but again, come Nov., these parts are crawling with hunters and dogs. A 220 set by the creek is going to be examined by someone even if no catch has been made. A coon on the end of a 'deep six' is a lot less noticeable than a bucket with a 220 at its mouth. A snare with "climbable entanglement" is about as lethal as a 220 for a coon. 90% of my sets are made lethal and 10% cage traps.
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Name: Hal
The vast majority of my coon sets are constructed in a lethal manner. Primarily, these are drowning sets made at the water's edge with foothold traps. I use a few 220's, but I am always greatly concerned with non-target catches so I use them only where the law allows and where they will be safe from wandering pets and hunting dogs. If I do make a non-lethal set, I will be with a small foothold trap, like the #11, or I'll use a snare. Snares set in non-entanglement situations preclude injury to non-target animals.

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