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Carcass Disposal. All Trappers: How do properly dispose of
your animal carcasses? Review This Topic
Sharpening Knives. All Trappers: What methods or tools do you
use for sharpening your skinning knives. Review This Topic
Lure Holders. All Trappers: Do you use any kind of lure holder
at your sets. If so, what do you use. Review This Topic
Digging on Dry Land. Land Trappers: What kind of tool or tools
do you use for digging and making sets on dry land. Review This
Topic
Digging on the Water Line. Water Trappers: What kind of tool
or tools do you use for digging and making sets in the water. Review
This Topic
Food Lure For Canines. Canine Trappers: Not
including bait, do you use food lure for canines? Review This
Topic
Outfitting Your Truck. Truck Trappers: How is your truck
outfitted for trapping? Do you use a capper top on the bed? Review
This Topic
Coon Lures. Coon Trappers: What role does bait and/or lure
play on your trapline for coons? Review This Topic
Mink Trapping. Mink Trappers: Approximately what percentage of
your mink are caught on dry land and what percentage in the water? What sets do you
use? Review This Topic
Carrying Lures. All trappers: How do you carry your lures on
the trapline? How do you protect the bottles from breakage? Review
This Topic
Fleshing Pelts. Fur Handlers: What means and methods do you
use for fleshing pelts? Review This Topic
Trappers Conventions. All trappers: If you have ever attended a state or
national trapper's convention, tell us what you liked best about it. Review This Topic
Replies:
Carcass Disposal. All Trappers: How do properly dispose of
your animal carcasses?
Name: Creekwalker I use what I can for bait. If I have more than I can use and
freeze, I take them back to the trapline. I try to put them in a place where they'll
be used by something, yet not cause problems. ******************************************************************* Name:
rick h i skin in the field and drag all carcasses at least 50 yards off the road in
the brush and feed them to the crows...the crows and predatory birds in nevada
generally clean them up in just a few days ******************************************************************* Name:
Obe joyful Get them well off the road behind some shrubry and out of sight.
Scavengers will quickly clean up the mess. In addition I never leave more than a
couple carcasses in the same spot. It's to easy for pictures of a pile of carcasses to
end up on the 6 o'clock news. ******************************************************************* Name:
Turtleman sell coons & rats , return the rest to nature in a woods. Where i
trap but I don't trap the carcass pile to many birds. ******************************************************************* Name:
Mike Drewel I pile them up in secluded locations and use them for coyote and possum
attractions. You can thin the grinners at carcass piles using just about any set but I
like to use cubby boxes with 120's that seems to work good for me. Around my part of
the country coyotes don't like to eat on coon carcasses much but they will walk by
them for a long time and investigate. Beaver and muskrats are a different story they
lovem!!! ******************************************************************* Name:
Corry Hatch The county landfill has a dead animal pit that is open 6 days a week.
This is kinda a hassle, but it keeps the neighbors, kids, cats, and activists off of
my back. It doesn't take much time out of my routine either. ******************************************************************* Name:
Mark D. Stackhouse i burry all that i can in remote parts of places i trap. when
the ground is frozen , i use brush piles, rocks piles, farm dumps , cover them up as
best i can and go back after things thaw out and cover them better with dirt if need
be. ******************************************************************* Name:
Nathan We have a couple of farms here that raise bears and large cats that we give
the carcasses to. It helps both of us out and the animals don't seem to mind a fresh
dinner eather. ******************************************************************* Name:
Corey Put them in a pile on my family land and the wolves eat them. ******************************************************************* Name:
M.Gruber Beaver and muskrats are kept for bait. Coon and 'yotes are buried. ******************************************************************* Name:
lufkin trapper I sell all my coon carcasses. All others are discreetly thrown into
the woods where the buzzards make short work of them. I try to always use the same
dumping place, as the buzzards will become accustomed to it and will quickly do the
job of disposal for me. ******************************************************************* Name:
John Porter Most carcusses get turned into bait or dog feed here. Coyotes and fox
carcusses get put out in the bait pile for the eagles. What isn't gone by spring gets
buried and then we start another bait pile. ******************************************************************* Name:
corey I'm lucky enough to have access to over 3000 acres of which almost all of the
land owners don't mind if I put some carcases out. Then, of course trail snares are
set going to the pile. In addition, I live next to a river that occassionally will see
some carcasses thrown in...helps to grow the catfish REALLY big! ******************************************************************* Name:
LabelTrapper Beaver and muskrat i use for fresh bait. Weasels i give to a guy that
makes lures. All others i use for rotten bait. ******************************************************************* Name:
buffalotrapper Email: kdmlink@juno.com I compost all my carcasses in fresh
sawdust from a local sawmill. I use cement blocks to outline an appropiate area, and
then spread about 8" of sawdust over the bottom. Next I add a layer of critters,
losely spaced, but not too close to the edges. Fat scrapings are scattered throughout
the carcasses. This is important as large globs of grease will not break down as well.
These are covered by another 6"-8" layer of sawdust and the process is
repeated until the end of the season, adding more cement blocks as the pile rises. By
spring all that is left is sawdust and some of the larger bones. ******************************************************************* Name:
Craig Cassel Donate them to the local possum feeding hole in the woods ******************************************************************* Name:
Bill Almost all of my carcasses go in the corn field out behind my house. Then we
watch the hawks and Bald eagles eat on them all winter long. A half dozen eagles
feeding is a pretty site to see. Then in the spring what is left gets plowed under. ******************************************************************* Name:
Buzzard Just throw them on the ground in a certain spot in my woods, the buzzards
usually have them all cleaned up within a day or two. This may not be the "proper
" thing to do but why waste perfectly good food for the creatures of the world ?? ******************************************************************* Name:
Kim page I bag them in plastic garbage bags and put them in the garbage can. Our
waste hauler will dispose of them. ******************************************************************* Name:
limbhanger I use my beaver carcasses for bait, I like to stuff them into culvert
pipes on old woods roads near my house, these make good cat, coon, and fox sets.
Everything else I pitch over a steep bank in several locations. It is not a problem
here due to the large amount of remote state forest lands. ******************************************************************* Name:
Albert Johnson I feed them to my dogs. I'd quickly end up in the hole if I spent
fur money on dog food, but this seems to work out. My team stays fat all winter and
the rats and coons pay for next years' vaccinations. ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal I give my beaver carcasses away for dog food. (The ones I don't use myself.)
The rest of the carcasses, I put out in the woods on my own property. A lot of
critters utilize my "carcass dump" as a food source to get them through the
winter. By spring, all that is left is bones. Sometimes, I will dispose of carcasses
at other places on my trapline, but always with permission of the land owner, and
always out of public view.
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Sharpening Knives. All Trappers: What methods or tools do you
use for sharpening your skinning knives.
Name: Montrap I've tried a lot of methods but I have gone back to a diamond stone and steel to keep mine sharp ******************************************************************* Name: Obejoyful A top quality Arkansas oilstone with a fine and coarse grit. ******************************************************************* Name: mike flanagan i got a lansky setup for x-mas it works pretty good for shorter knifes that have some kind of thickness on the backbone or spine. for long thin knifes a regular stone setup like smith's trihone works well for me. this allows me to choose coarse, med or fine depending on what needs to be done with each blade. for major reshaping a bench mounted beltsander with 150 grit is great, but be carefull to avoid taking too much off to fast so the blade does'nt get overheated. ******************************************************************* Name: Rick Blasic I just use a sharpening stone. ******************************************************************* Name: Zane May I use a knife sharping kit.It gets the work done. ******************************************************************* Name: S-D Beaverboy I use a sharpner from Wal Mart sporting goods section called Smith's. It costs around $6 and will put on a real good edge for skinning and you can put in dishwasher when done. Pay attention! I still have stitches on my knuckle...My stone just gets too messy with beaver fat. ******************************************************************* Name: Ethan I use a regular sharpening stone that you would use for any knife and sharpen them by just pushing down hard and pulling down. ******************************************************************* Name: Bill A carbide sharpener for when the blade wont hold an edge. Otherwise a ceramic sharpening stick to touch up the blade. ******************************************************************* Name: Chuck D. I use a handheld sharpener made by SMITH'S, it is yellow, but I put it in my benchtop vise, so all I have to do is run the knives through it a couple of times while I am skinning. I picked it up at LOWE'S HOME IMPROVEMENT store for $6-$8. When I am done for the night I will run all the knives through it then use a whetstone on them for a razor's edge. ******************************************************************* Name: klk1trapper a diamond steal works great but is pertty exspensive ******************************************************************* Name: william Hooker I was shown by man name Charlie Dobbins how to sharpen knfes for skinning etc. He used a wheel and ruge and I may still have the old sharpen stone he left behind. ******************************************************************* Name: bill I like a lansky sharpener for my everyday pocket and hunting knives. I haven't yet sharpened a flesher. I am interested in others methods though. ******************************************************************* Name: trapper62 Email: pat.brenden@sendit.nodak.edu I use a diamond steel for sharpening all of my knives, it is quick, gives a good edge and is not aggresive with the steel blade of a knife! ******************************************************************* Name: creekwalker Now I use an old, fairly fine, oil stone my grandpa gave me as a kid. It sits in a hand-carved wooden base and has a matching hand carved cover. Love that thing. When I worked in a knife shop as a kid, and used to sharpen for customers, I liked a stone we called a soft arkansas, followed by a hard arkansas, followed by a black hard arkansas (like glass). Slip the edge of a nickel between the back edge of the blade and the stone for the right angle and keep it there. (That's the tough part.) Cut into the stone, never away. ******************************************************************* Name: Larry Swisher use the old oil stones to sharpen my knives. I also use a Lasky Sharpening System. This works great as i can put either a shallow angle or a deep one on the knife depending on it's use. ******************************************************************* Name: Jeff Evans I generally use a hand held stone for sharpening but do not use any oil on the stone. Learned that method from dad. If the knife dulls while skinning then I use one of those hand draw type sharpeners that have a hand protector on it. Its quick and I don't have to take my gloves or stop skinning but for a couple seconds. Then when I'm finished I go back with the stone ******************************************************************* Name: John Warner I use a Diamond Sharpening Steel. They are a little costly but very efficient. ******************************************************************* Name: Hal I came up sharpening on an oil stone. Then I switched to a diamond stone and diamond steel for knife sharpening. Expensive, but in my opinion a worthwhile investment. A few years ago, I bought a professional knife sharpening system that uses wheels on a bench grinder. One wheel is coated with grit for roughing out, and the other wheel is coated with rouge to polish the edge. Again, expensive, but very quick.
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Lure Holders. All Trappers: Do you use any kind of lure holder
at your sets. If so, what do you use.
Name: Mallard I started using pipe cleaners this year and really like them. The cotton holds the lure well, and the wire can be shoved into the lip of a dirt hole, dropped into a dirt hole, used to hang a lure inside a frozen pocket set, and also make a good dip stick to get the lure out of the bottom of a jar. They are fairly cheap when buying 500 qty bundles. ******************************************************************* Name: Zane May I like to use newspaper wrapped in duck tape for a craddle in the newspaper. ******************************************************************* Name: Obejoyful When makeing a flat or post set I use a piece of wood of appropriate size for urine and lure. Occasionally I'll place lure on a small stick and put that in a tall grass clump after applying urine to the grass. Lure holders are one less thing I have to take to the bush. Pieces of wood are everywhere within reach or I can pick them up as I drive the ranch roads. ******************************************************************* Name: Ethan I use cotton to hold my lure scent at my sets, when i put the lure on it i sprinkle dirt over it so you cant see the white of the cotton. ******************************************************************* Name: Bill Cotton balls both for a holder and eye appeal. Really work nice in the Griz' Getters. ******************************************************************* Name: klk1trapper i use a 35mm film contanor with holes in it. inside it i put cotton balls to hol the lure. works great!! ******************************************************************* Name: Steve I have taken shelled corn cobs and cut them into 2 inch lengths. Then hollow out about 1 inch of the soft center of the cob. Place your lure inside the hollowed cob. ******************************************************************* Name: Scott Lehtonen I seldom use lure holders, may be a stick counts. ******************************************************************* Name: bill A little dip in the bottle with a stick seems to work just fine. ******************************************************************* Name: Trapper62 Depends on the set and locatin! I really like using corn cobs, (I got this from one of Charles Dobbin's videos), it is readily available, biodegradeable so I do not have to retrieve it, and can be used in almost any set type and location! ******************************************************************* Name: I clip off the top of a Q-tip, put the lure on it, and stick it in the dirt, inside the dirthole on the roof if it is a dirthole. I use a seperate pair of gloves for luring and baiting so I don't contaminate the hardware I handle. ******************************************************************* Name: Larry Swisher I have been using raw sheeps wool. It seems to work for me but I have used everything from dry grass to cotton pillow stuffing. ******************************************************************* Name: John Warner A good lure really doesnt need a holder in my oppinion. Although if a hard rain is in the forecast I will scrape moss off a nearby rock and use that or sometimes a wad of grass. I just like to things natural. ******************************************************************* Name: Rick Blasic I like to use a film canister with cotton stuffed in it. When weekend trapping, I can put the lid on it and take it with me and it is ready to use the next weekend. ******************************************************************* Name: Jeff Channell lamb wool. I have sheep so its free, natural, and holds the lure well and is a great sight attractant too. ******************************************************************* Name: lynx/cat-trapper I prefer to use a piece of wool as a lure holder at my land sets, the wool has not only good eye appeal, but a smell of it's own which is also attractive. ******************************************************************* Name: Hal I've use a lot of things for lure holders, many of which were mentioned above. I use cotton balls and sheep's wool quite a bit. But I also use wads of grass, corn cobs or any other dry absorbent material for a lure holder. I do this primarily for "thin" lures. If a lure is thick in consistency, usually I just dip some out of the bottle with a short stick, and place that at the set.
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Digging on Dry Land. Land Trappers: What kind of tool or tools
do you use for digging and making sets on dry land.
******************************************************************* Name:
Zane May I use a regular old trowl for digging any kind of set. ******************************************************************* Name:
Scottthetrapper I have a 5# hammer made to change tires,I've put an edge on the
pointed end and it really pounds the ground. This year I bought a Renos excavater,it's
a all steel trowel w/a d-handle. This is one tough spade. Besides these tools I have a
home made sifter. Making flat sets I also use a rebar stake to make a small lure hole.
I also have an old chopping axe I use on frozen ground.I like the long handle better
than useing my hammer. It keeps your face farther away from flying frozen mud. ******************************************************************* Name:
Scott Arnold a garden trial works great for me.it has a hole in the handle so i
attached a for clipping it on my belt loop ******************************************************************* Name:
John Warner Digging Hammer, Trap Stake, Trowel ******************************************************************* Name:
D.Fellman Small trowl, I use 3" blade, rubber gloves, kneeling matt, 14 ga.
wire, make shur all are clean handle with rubber gloves to min. sent contamination
clean new traps by boiling in water with bakeing soda let dry then boil in logwood dye
solution then wax.. I wax by adding pine boughts to 5 gal of water add 1 pd. brick of
trap wax let melt then dip traps. ******************************************************************* Name:
Obejoyful For trap beds I use a folding trenching spade. It has a pick on one side
and a small shovel blade on the other. For digging dirt holes, and I dig very few of
them due to the unaturally hard ground in this country, I use a YOHO tool that I
removed the wooden handle from and welded the blade shaft into a 20 inch piece of 1/2
inch steel pipe and then added a 5 inch cross piece of the same 1/2 inch pipe. Inside
the cross piece I inserted a piece of 1/2 inch bar stock to keep it from crushing when
I use my 3 pound sledge to drive the blade into the ground to start a dirthole. ******************************************************************* Name:
Weasil Rerod stake for the scent or bait hole, Leggett style hammer for trap bed,
metal sifter, and kneeling pad. ******************************************************************* Name:
Brandon West I use just a regular clean garden shovel. it is just the right size
for making dirt holes and trap beds ******************************************************************* Name:
jason arthur i use a set of hole diggers because they make a perfect circle for the
1 1/2 5in coil spring traps i used i use rubber gloves a cover scent ******************************************************************* Name:
john swanson big yoho shovel ******************************************************************* Name:
yotedan an auger and my stake driving hammer are my favorite digging tools. i dig
two holes w/the auger. one is dug straight down and the other one is dug at an angle
for my lure / bait hole. digging a hole staight down w/the auger about 6" deep
then pounding down the edges w/the hammer works great for me. i use a 3" homemade
auger and the diameter is just right. the auger is light and i already have to carry a
hammer to dtive my stakes. ******************************************************************* Name: Email: Topic:
Diggin on Dry Land I use a narrow bladed trapper's trowel for digging dirtholes and
a wide mason's hammer for digging trap beds. ******************************************************************* Name:
CoonDuke I use a narrow bladed trapper's trowel for digging dirtholes and a wide
mason's hammer for digging trap beds. ******************************************************************* Name:
John Davendonis A small trowel with a sturdy handle works well with regular or
topsoil. A hammer works when the ground is frozen, and a narrow(2 in.)twowel works for
digging dirtholes. ******************************************************************* Name:
coonslayer50 me i usally just use a small trowel or such item. i dont do very much
water trapping to i manly stick to dry land sets. I dont trap near or even by water,
but to answer the question i would say that i just use a small trowel. if i have a
shortage at a time that i dont have such tools avalable or for one reason or another i
simply sick to the old time and use my hands with garden gloves on. ******************************************************************* Name:
Rick Blasic I like to use a yoho shovel but, when the digging is really tough I
like to use a mattic for rocky areas ******************************************************************* Name:
Keith Trudell I had my uncle weld a piece of flat stock onto the opposite end of my
hammer, so I can pound with one end, and dig with the other. It works for what I use
it for. ******************************************************************* Name:
Jack I use a small handle shovel from the garden center and a hoe that I cut half
the length of the andle off( makes it fit in the trappin basket.) And a sifter box to
cover the set. ******************************************************************* Name:
dondh I use a standard trappers trowel, single bit axe, and modified tile spade. I
cut the tile spade down to where its more pointed and narrow. I use the axe to drive
stakes and chop trap beds in frozen ground. These seem to be enough for me. ******************************************************************* Name:
Alan Nall For digging trap beds I use an adz head axe. I picked it up at an auction
for a couple of bucks. I didn't even know what it was called until I saw it in a
woodcraft catalog. I like it because the blade is heavy enough that it does not bend
and has enough mass to be efficient. The handle is about twenty inches long which
makes it easy to carry as well. ******************************************************************* Name:
trappnman I use 2 tools- a heavy duty craftsman Masonary hammer and a standard
narrow bladed trowel with a D handle. I cut my bed and clear ground with the blade end
of the hammer and use the trowel for digging my lure holes. My wife Lori prefers using
a hand auger (as is used for coon cuffs) to make her dirtholes- she is making her
dirtholes for coon and likes the size hole and ease of use with the auger. ******************************************************************* Name:
Zane May I use a simple trowl. It does the job. ******************************************************************* Name:
Don I use the J.C. Conners digger tool and a metal sifter - sometimes I use a
trapper's cap ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal I use a 3" wide trappers trowel and a mason's hammer. When the digging is
tough, I use the blade end of the hammer. I use the blunt end to drive stakes with, so
it serves a dual purpose.
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Digging on the Water Line. Water Trappers: What kind of tool
or tools do you use for digging and making sets in the water.
******************************************************************* Name:
Scottthetrapper I have a long handled heavy duty tile spade w/ a sharpened blade. ******************************************************************* Name:
John Warner Trowel or Tile Spade ******************************************************************* Name:
Weasil Either a 18" trappers trowel, or tile spade for L shaped tunnels in
creek banks, and a heavy hammer such as the one used for dirt hole sets developed by
the Leggetts. ******************************************************************* Name:
Brandon West For making pocket sets I use a garden shovel. My boot works good for
making trap beds ******************************************************************* Name:
john a track shovle for cleaning tracks a a catipilar ******************************************************************* Name:
CoonDuke I prefer a wide bladed trapper's trowel, a small shovel, or a modified
tile spade. ******************************************************************* Name:
anthony miller i like to use a spade shovel with holes drilled in it for digging
shallow holes ******************************************************************* Name:
dondh Single bit axe to drive stakes, cut ice, and cut stakes. I use a trappers
trowel to make pocket set as well as a rebar stake to poke smaller hole sets. I use a
shortened tile spade to feel for traps and dig trap beds under water. A tip I saw on
hal's beaver 2000 video. Good luck don ******************************************************************* Name:
trappnman Standard narrow bladed trowel 90% of the time- a tile spade the other 10% ******************************************************************* Name:
Don On the water line, I use either the three in one tool - hammer/hoe/trowel or I
will use a tile spade. It depends on the type of bank that I have. ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal Primarily, I use a modified tile spade. I cut the blade down until it is only 8
or 9 inches long. If I am going to be making a number of pocket sets, I may switch to
a full size tile spade.
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Food Lure For Canines. Canine Trappers: Not
including bait, do you use food lure for canines?
******************************************************************* Name:
Jake snyder sometimes. although i dont use predator lure. Its a type of beaver
lure. i found that it works real well ******************************************************************* Name:
M. Gruber Yes, sometimes with a flat set, I'll use a food lure. ******************************************************************* Name:
Zane May I use food lure deafintly. I like my food lures kind of watery and chunky.
I use sullivans food lure. I use dirthole set all the time. they work great. I use
post sets alot to. In the snow I use dirthole sets in the snow. ******************************************************************* Name:
JOHNNY HAMILTON I think that the bait, is really a food lure,if you think about it
all that a food lure is is another scent to intrest the animal. The reason most ffod
lures are a liquid is because of the things that are added to it such as oils, glands,
castors, that help with the calling power to help carry it out. I think food is food
to the canines. I have made many baits of varying forms and have had great results
!!!! Gland lure, long distance call, urine, bait! But most of all the location must be
right or it doesn't matter what you have. ******************************************************************* Name:
Obejoyful No, When useing lures for canines I use primarily gland lures and urines.
I don't think I've used a food lure in years. ******************************************************************* Name:
derek van buren i use a product called "Liquid Lunch". It is a combo food
lure/liquid bait. Ive found that using food lures work great with flat sets, usually
placing the lure under a rock or piece of wood. ******************************************************************* Name:
chris dam no, i only use other kinds of lures ******************************************************************* Name:
Randy Huffman The last two years I have had good luck with Food Lure ******************************************************************* Name:
T.J. yes i use the sardines in a can ******************************************************************* Name:
vadnais I trap mainly beaver and as of now i'm trying to catch a coyote. i have a
coyote food bait that i am using. ******************************************************************* Name:
nick Yes,I have caught fox on cheese curls/balls ******************************************************************* Name:
cj hall yes i do i use mouse because that is what the yotes around were i trap so i
like to use them ******************************************************************* Name:
Dan No. I have not tried this. I normally use urine, call lures, and/or deer meat. ******************************************************************* Name:
SoutnernComfort GH II from minnesota trapline products. Its a strong lure and will
bring them in from far off. ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal I don't think people quite understood this question, even though "Not
including bait," was specifically stated. Food lures are another type of lure
meant to be used in small quantities, which makes it different from bait. I use food
lure some at dirtholes, and I use it at flat sets when I want to present the set as a
food opportunity set.
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Outfitting Your Truck. Truck Trappers: How is your truck
outfitted for trapping? Do you use a capper top on the bed?
******************************************************************* Name:
lynx/cat-trapper My truck has a topper on it...except for when I bobcat trap and
need to load the 4wheeler. My truck is geared to safety since I am oftentimes 40 or
50mi from the nearest house when trapping. I have tire repair kits,12v air
compressor,2 spares, tools, two jacks, tire chains, tow chains, spare clothes, coat,
boots... to name a few. Safety HAS to be #1 on you list at all times. ******************************************************************* Name:
Mike Paine 4x4 truck, re-rod stakes up near the front in a wooden crate, traps
seperated in plastic tots with SNAP-ON lids. They are seperated by waxed or dipped.
Snares in another, flatter tote. A few buckets for dirt and other stuff. It is pretty
organized the first saturday of November, by the second saturday, looks like a metal
fur ball with mud, wire, and chain poking everywhere. No topper, had one once; could
not even imagine trapping with it, although it wasn't the side door type. I hop out,
reach around and start makeing sets. everthing is in enclosed totes or boxes so the
rain doesn't get to it. ******************************************************************* Name:
M.Gruber My truck has a cap. I always start out very organized, boxes for each kind
of trap, etc. By the end of the season, it looks like a giant tangle of steel and wire
and mud and anything else I could throw back there. I hope to do a better job of
staying neat next season.(I've said that same thing every year.) ******************************************************************* Name:
Obejoyful I use a large aluminum tool/cargo box to hold my clean traps and have a
removeable skining gannon base mounted in the rear left corner of the bed. The gannon
rides in the truck bed on an old piece of carpet that floors the bed to reduce rattle
and noise. ******************************************************************* Name:
derek vb this was the first season i have not used a capper top on my truck. I used
an old wooden box with 4 compartments for bait/urine/lure in one, canine traps in
another, water traps in another, and sifter/hatchet/trowel/hulls in the last. I found
it to work better than having a capper top because of greater accessability. ******************************************************************* Name:
Keith Trudell I don't have a cap on my truck, but I have a flat fiberglass cover on
my bed. I can't put anything real tall or large in the back, but I can fit all of the
equipment I have for trapping in it so far. One problem is it holds smells and gets
like an oven when it's warm, and needless to say it got pretty ronchy during the
season!! ******************************************************************* Name:
Dan Nothing special. Just an open bed pick up so I can load an atv in it. ******************************************************************* Name:
Fishadict Lots of coffee up front. I use a topper on mine. Traps are in totes.
Short stakes, 160's, and "H" stands go in plastic buckets. Long stakes and
longer tools are laid in the bed. I plan on making some sort of box for my long stakes
this year. ******************************************************************* Name:
Bill I have to drive my truck to work everyday after and before checking the line
so I have to be careful with what I keep in the back. Too many people who may not
understand what we do. So I have to throw my stuff in the back seat of the truck to
haul it to the trapline. ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal I keep my stuff in wood boxes in the back of the truck. I made these boxes so I
can stack them on top of each other. But most of the time I don't have to. When I'm
running a beaver line, I keep 330's in milk crates in the back of the truck. I have
always had a cap on my truck and probably always will. However, I will never have
another cap that does not have side opening windows. It really is a pain if you have
to reach everything from the tail gate.
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Coon Lures. Coon Trappers: What role does bait and/or lure
play on your trapline for coons?
******************************************************************* Name:
Weasil Fish and fish oil are used more than anything in most of my sets. After it
gets downright cold, then I add a good lure to pull them in from long distances.
Around orchards or berry patches in the early season, I might go to a fruit based
lure. ******************************************************************* Name:
Jerry Mohs I use a lot of coon lure on my trap line and feel it is important to a
good catch. I use both the sweet smelling and fish oil type of lure. Sometimes I'll
also use some field corn for its visual afect. ******************************************************************* Name:
greg works well in cubby sets along trails that have multiple routes or are not
defined well enough to make a trail set. ******************************************************************* Name:
K. Sime If I run a mix water line (coon/mink/rat) than I use bait, such as fish. If
I am just targeting coon, then I usually run the culvert circuit, which of course just
uses trail sets. ******************************************************************* Name:
rascal When trapping coon, for me a good bait or lure or combination of the two is
used heavily. I want the coon digging to get to my bait or lure. I really use a lot of
Oil of Sweetcorn; Persimmon Oil, and other sweet smelling oil or lures. One of my
favorite baits is 9 lives cat food in the can that is Tuna and Shrimp flavor. Holds
good as a bait at the set and coon really seem to like it. Nearly every coon set I
make is either lured, baited or both. ******************************************************************* Name:
Todd I don't set many traps specifically for coons, but the ones i do are blind
trail sets using a conibear. Hardly ever use bait. never use lure. There seems to be
enough natural "forces" that I don't need bait or lure. ******************************************************************* Name:
M. A. B. I experimented with all types and kinds of lures. The best thing I came
across was anise extract back when I still used lures for coons. Marshmellows and live
traps will get you a coon in every trap almost every night without having to worry
about masking human scent or waxing and dyeing the traps. ******************************************************************* Name:
samuel jackson not very much. i always dig a hole similar to what a coon makes
while digging for a crawdad. then i make it as noticible as posible by rubbing down
the bank around the hole. after i do that i splash it down with water. ******************************************************************* Name:
Rick Blasic Bait or lure has accounted for every coon I caught. Although I have
tried blind sets, I never caught anything in them. ******************************************************************* Name:
water-trapper3453 It plays a very major role on my trapline. I use it on 3 out of 5
sets. My favorite bait in mackeral with a capfull of Sullivans coon craft. ******************************************************************* Name:
Jack Turner Jr I use bait or lure at approximately 80% of all sets where the
foothold trap is utilized. These can be on land or in/near water. As food supplies
diminish, and the fact that they are curious furbearers, I believe utilizing some sort
of scent is advantageous in helping to put more coon on stretchers. I do utilize
snares in coon trails and obviously do not use any bait or lure here. ******************************************************************* Name:
MrFox I use sweet coon bait that contains anise extract and a slice of apple for
sight appeal in up to 70 percent of my coon sets. The other 30 percent of my sets I
use a fish type bait. ******************************************************************* Name:
OldChevyTruck Unless I am snaring, I almost always use some sort of dead/rotten
fish as coon bait. I have found it hard to beat, even in freezing weather. When I
don't have any fish, I have found that some fresh dog food works too, but you have to
get it close to them. They don't seem to find it as easy as rotten fish. ******************************************************************* Name:
mark w sienk Email: mwsienk@msn.com bait and lure can play a great role for
getting coons to your trap. once they get there you need to place your traps and have
the set up to get them cought and well. these animals are extreemly smart and can miss
your set or some how set the trap off. try to funnel them into your set leading them
to your bait ******************************************************************* Name:
Derek Van Buren I usually don't use lure for coon. The coon in my area seem to be
more attracted to a bait with eye appeal than any lure I've used. I usually use fish
parts or chicken parts with feathers for bait. ******************************************************************* Name:
jason blackwelder coon lure and bait both play a major role in my annual coon
catch. sometimes i can't put in a set right on the trail but can lure them of the bank
or under the culvert with a little bait or lure. ******************************************************************* Name:
jason blackwelder coon lure and bait both play a major role in my annual coon
catch. sometimes i can't put in a set right on the trail but can lure them of the bank
or under the culvert with alittle bait or lure. ******************************************************************* Name:
Chuck Fitch Along water I use chopped fish and a sweat lure. On wood lines and crop
feilds I use Carmens #2 and fox urine. ******************************************************************* Name:
joe tannehill very important role. set up mostly pockets, and baited natrual holes
along my creeks. ******************************************************************* Name:
A1TRAPPER I use bait/lure at 100% of my coon sets. Smoked fish at 60%, sweet
smelling lure @ 20%, and rotted meat smell @ 20%. ******************************************************************* Name:
ron miller Email: josh_kelly52@yahoo.com it helps call them in to the set makes
the coons curisous whats around then they get caught.. ******************************************************************* Name:
Zane May I think that bait and lure play a big part in coon trapping. If you did
not have any bait or lure how would you get them to come in to your sets. I use
sullivans racoon lure. It works great. I use a number 1.5 for coon. ******************************************************************* Name:
Lost Howl I would consider bait 90% and lure 10% ******************************************************************* Name:
Michael J. McChurin With bait, I have the best luck with canned mackerel mixed with
extract of Anise. The lures I have the best luck with are Hawbaker's Big 3 or Muskrat
musk. I usually have more success with the bait, but the lures aren't behind by much
of a margin. ******************************************************************* Name:
Dan Giddis Bait plays a big role in my coon sets , be it dryland or water. I set
mainly pockets in water and use a fishy bait along with fish oil. Dryland sets I use
dirtholes with something fishy also with a fish oil trail. ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal I'd say about 50 -50. Half the sets I make for coon are blind sets. On the
other half, usually pocket sets, I'll use a fishy bait and a shot of lure.
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Mink Trapping. Mink Trappers: Approximately what
percentage of your mink are caught on dry land and what percentage in the water? What
sets do you use?
******************************************************************* Name:
Weasil Twenty five percent are caught on dry land, seventy five per cent in or near
water. Dirt hole on land, and the majority my sets in water are dirt hole. I use
blinds sets whenever possible. ******************************************************************* Name:
Tyler Romig 90% on dry land or ice ******************************************************************* Name:
greg dry land - 50% I use baited cubbies with 110# on land near small streams that
run only in fall and spring time. Rarely make a foot set specifically for mink in
water. Catch most in rat runs in 110#'s ******************************************************************* Name:
Todd I would say 95% of my mink are caught in the water. I use natural forces and
obstructions, overhanging banks, logs. Occasionally a pocket set. ******************************************************************* Name:
Jim Severing Approx. ten to fifteen percent of my mink are caught on dry land, the
rest in the water. Years with a hard freeze, thick ice early on, in december through
january the percentage goes up considerably, if you consider the ice as an extention
of the land. I mostly take advantage of force blind sets, in the water and\or up on,
or along the bank, along with a few snow tunnel sets, when I find them. Was always
taught a mink is a dry land animal that likes to hunt and travel, along and in
waterways and pretty much set with that in the back of my mind, blind sets are more
less the same wet or dry, a mink is a mink in water or out. ******************************************************************* Name:
aaron lynch all blind sets on runs. all dry sets. ******************************************************************* Name:
Chuck Fitch 50% in muskrat run sets, 25% blind coni set along creek banks and 25%
nowhere near water in coon sets using 1.5 offsets. ******************************************************************* Name:
joe tannehill so far 100% water sets mink are few and far between in my area (at
least for me) all of the ones i have caught were in either muskrat sets coon sets or
beaver sets. ******************************************************************* Name:
Zane May I think 10% of mink are caught on land. probily 90% are caught on the
water. I use a 110 conibear. ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal About 90% of my mink are caught in water.
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Carrying Lures. All trappers: How do you carry your lures on
the trapline? How do you protect the bottles from breakage?
******************************************************************* Name:
jake albert wrap them up in papper towles or something like that and put them in a
coat pocket. just make sure you have pading over it and you will. if they would still
break then the pepper towles would have the sent and all the stuff in it for you. ******************************************************************* Name:
Jeff I use a plastic butter tub in my baqg that I use for trapping. it keeps the
bottles from breaking and rattling. I use poly-fil stuffed around the bottles to keep
from moving and as a little insulation. ******************************************************************* Name:
Robert Rivers I carry my lures separate from my other trapping supplies. I use a
5gal bucket for carrying my things back and forth, the bucket has a carpenters bag on
the side in which I keep my lures. I keep them from breaking by simply being careful. ******************************************************************* Name:
Ray Starnes I carry mine in a bag that has pockets on the inside and outside. I
have used a pocket buddy that fits a 5 gallon plastic pail such as wall mud comes in.
I use the bag now because when I got in a hurry to remake a set, it seemed I always
put the bucket on an uneven surface and would have to pick up all the contents in the
bucket before moving on. Wasted time. ******************************************************************* Name:
Chris Davanzo i do not use the glass bottles but plastic one made by nalgene which
are small enough and air tight which makes then nice they are also quite inexpensive ******************************************************************* Name:
K. TERRY SIME I use a five gallon pail. I bought a shooters pouch, one with three
large pockets. I took it to a shoe repair shop and they sewed in a piece of elastic (2
inches wide) at the very top of the pouch. You can have any size you want for any size
bottles. Take an empty bottle in with you, (clean it out first)so they can get the
right fit. I've used mine for about five years now, and the elastic is just starting
to stretch. I probably will have to have it redone. I have room for eight one ounce
bottles and two four ounce bottles. You can also do it at home if you have a heavy
duty sew machine. The three pockets in the shooting pouch are large enough to hold
everything you need. I attached the shooters pouch to the outside of the 5 gallon
pail. ******************************************************************* Name:
JAMES Plastic thats all i need to say empty bottles bought at a local craft store ******************************************************************* Name:
Bob Samuelson I use a bucket boss but most of my lures are paste type in plastic 4
ounce jars. ******************************************************************* Name:
Kim Marie Page I have pouches on my packbasket to hold the lure bottles. Luckily I
have never broke a bottle yet. ******************************************************************* Name:
Obejoyful I made an over the sholder bag of thick leather the measures 8X9 inside
with compartments on each side. It carrys all I need, 3 pint urine bottles of urine,
three 4oz bottles of lure and the inside comprtments carry eight 1oz bottles of lure.
In addition to that I can usually get a plastic peanut butter jar with chunck bait in
it as well. The whole thing just rides in the back of my pickup on the bed. In
probably 10 years I've only had one 4oz bottle break in the bag and I go over some
rough country on the ranches. As a result I don't take special precautions. ******************************************************************* Name:
justin i carry mine in in those chocalate bottles that freezes on ice cream ******************************************************************* Name:
a1trapper I had my wife sew a common carpenters apron into a 4 pocket lure carrier.
Works great and its cheap. ******************************************************************* Name:
trappnman I carry my canine lures in an ice cream bucket. I have enough in there
plus a frosting can full of cotton balls, so the bottles stay upright. Never had a
broken bottle yet. With coon, I use fish oil mix a lot of times and carry that in
plastic squirt bottles. ******************************************************************* Name:
Bill Davenport When I'm trapping from a boat or canoe I have a water tight box that
I keep lures and other things I want to keep dry. When trapping from my truck, I also
have a box for my lures and take out what I need before walking to the set. Its also a
good idea to put a couple layers of clear tape over the labels to protect them. I
don't know about you guys, but I still cant distinguish a fox gland lure from a coyote
gland lure by the smell. ******************************************************************* Name:
Flapjack my vest has elastic straps for 12 gague shells, a little needle and thread
to close up the bottoms and their a perfict fit. except for the larger bottles which
are plastic anyway. ******************************************************************* Name:
Jack Turner Jr. I use a "Bucket Boss" pouch on my 5 gal. bucket while
actually walking the line. However, I do keep extra bottles of lure in a coffee can in
the trunk. Every so often I will switch these around. I don't take extra precautions
to avoid breakage. ******************************************************************* Name:
John Warner I usually carry my lures in an ice cream pail inside my truck and then
they are transferred to my pocket when I get to a location. I wrap a small thin piece
of sponge around the lure bottles and fasten it with a rubber band. ******************************************************************* Name:
Matt V. I use old scoks. Seeing as you only wear out the bottoms, my wife cut's off
the part that goes up your leg then usually cuts that in half again. She then sews up
one opening leaveing one end open. Theres room for 1, 4oz. bottle or 2, 1oz. bottles.
Fold the top over and you could put a rubber band on them but I just fold the top over
then put them in a old GI blatter bag holder which is bolted to the inside of a 5 gal
bucket. Pint bait jars are placed in a doubbled up sock. Never broke a lure jar but I
have cracked a few bait jars over the years. ******************************************************************* Name:
Lawman9807 I use pelican cases with the perforated cutouts. This way, it is
waterproof and airtight with plenty of padding between bottles. ******************************************************************* Name:
Mongojoe I have built a small wooden box, with a lid and carring handle, and
"hook and ring" like on a screen door, to lock down the lid, that I carry my
lures and baits in, that I can set in the back of my truck. It's a bit larger than an
average lunch box.(I have a friend that uses an old lunch box)Then, I have attached to
the top, outside of my pack basket, a "carrier" made from old jeans, with
pockets sewn in. I take the lures that I am going to need out of my box, and put them
in my lure pouch on my basket. Also, I sometimes just use a 5 gallon plastic bucket
instead of my pack basket and I have made a lure pouch that I use on this too. It
attaches to the top of my bucket by sewn in belt loops, and a rubber strap is streched
around it and the "S" hooks hooked together. It is a simple matter to change
it to another bucket by unhooking and just hooking on another bucket. ******************************************************************* Name:
mike I carry lures in an insulated fanny pack like the type they sell for carrying
your lunch. ******************************************************************* Name:
Nick Smith I wrap mine in paper towels and put them into a small plastic tote( from
Wall Mart) then i put them in the back of my Pickup, out of reach of my dog. ******************************************************************* Name:
Beau Adcock I carry a back pack at all times with that pads for my pan, and more.
My Lures are kept rapped up in toilet paper with the sent on it so that my sent will
not be on it. ******************************************************************* Name:
shawn mcdowell I carry mine in a plastic 1.5 gallon ice cream container. I have a
2" thick pc of blue poly styrene insulation board cut to fit the dia of the
bottom and hot glued down. I drilled holes in the blue board to accept the different
type and size of bottles. The friction fit keeps them tight, "blue board"
protects and the lid on the bucket keeps the spills from getting into my jeep, plus
keeps the residual smells from spreading. My jeep is also my main vehicle for travel
to and from school. I am a high school teacher and I do not need Carman's widow maker
cologne! I run my small canine line to and from school, the bucket's handle makes it
easy to carry to my sets. Works great for me! ******************************************************************* Name:
Ditchum Email: pride@bpsnetworks.com I use plastic bottles. No breakage &
they float if dropped into the water. ******************************************************************* Name:
sour mash no.7 put all lures in a lure bag just take care of the lures ******************************************************************* Name:
Rick Blasic I use an old soft backpack my mom made for me when I was in grade
school. It's about thirty years old and does a great job of seperating my lures and
urine and also keeps glass bottles from smashing. ******************************************************************* Name:
Denny Kyser I carry mine in a small plastic tote that has a top with a handle on
it. Top has a way of clamping on to the bottom. Been quite handy, have lots of cotton
balls in there also to keep things from breaking and I also use them as lure holders. ******************************************************************* Name:
CoonCaller Most of my small lures are carried in those elastic bands ment for extra
shotgun shells. They stay secure and I haven't had one break yet, as for the large
bottles I carry the few I have in a holster ment for a water bottle. they have a place
to put your belt through, so they are right there when ya need them and out of the way
when ya don't. ******************************************************************* Name:
Kris fanny pack is what works for me ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal I use two methods for carrying lures. The lures I use regularly ride in a lure
pouch that is strapped to the outside of my set bucket. The secondary lures are kept
in a plastic jar with a lid on it. This prevents breakage.
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Fleshing Pelts. Fur Handlers: What means and methods do you
use for fleshing pelts?
******************************************************************* Name:
CoonDuke I use my fingers and a rag to flesh red fox. Gray fox and muskrats get
fleshed on a small beam with a dull, 2 handled knife. Raccoon get done on a beam with
a large, sharp 2 handled knife. I strip mink over an old chainsaw blade and scrape
with a spoon or small fleshing tool. ******************************************************************* Name:
Ray Starnes Being I don't do alot of fur skinning or fleshing anymore, I use my
square scraper on my 2x6 fleshing beam and try to skin my fur as clean as possible. I
make sure all tails have been skinned clear to the tip and held open by tacks so
slippage doesn't occur. I use a dull edge scraper as much as I can to avoid cutting
the fur. ******************************************************************* Name:
Kim Marie Page I use a beam and 10 inch flesher. I will flesh the hide as clean as
possible and in the morning check over the pelt to make sure I got everything. If I
missed a spot I will go over it again. On a soft skinned pelt, I will use a dull
butter knife to remove any missed areas. ******************************************************************* Name:
trappnman Muskrats, mink I use wood fleshing boards and an old dull butter knife.
Coyotes and fox I "clean skin" and seldom have to put one on a fleshing
board. If I missed anything, I just trim it of the stretched hide. ******************************************************************* Name:
Jack Turner Jr. Generally, I use a two-handled fleshing tool and wooden fleshing
beam for most species. ******************************************************************* Name:
mike I use a necker type fleshing knife and a good fleshing beam. scrape downward
with constant pressure. depending on the animal you may need to apply very little
pressure or alot of pressure(example: use very little pressure for mink or muskrat and
alot of pressure for beaver) ******************************************************************* Name:
Denny Kyser I use a fleshing beam made out of pine (from hals book) and use a
necker fleshing knife. Just learning how to flesh coon this year so no pro by any
means. ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal I use a beam and a 2-edge fleshing knife for everything except mink. For mink I
just slip the pelt on an old mink board and scrape off the fat with a bell scraper.
Beaver, I mostly clean skin.
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Trappers Conventions. All trappers: If you have ever
attended a state or national trapper's convention, tell us what you liked best about
it.
******************************************************************* Name:
Weasil I have attended a few conventions out o state, and they are a place where
you can find almost anything. The comraderie is untouched in my opinion. It is also a
place in which you can make lasting friends. ******************************************************************* Name:
Mallard I just like being around my kind of people. The Demo's are great, The
vendors are all friendly and willing to talk, and as well have everything a trapper
could need. Meeting new folks as well as re-acquanting with old faces.........it's all
good. I leave the conventions with great expectations and ideas for the upcoming
season. My wife has to dig out the strait jacket. ******************************************************************* Name:
A1TRAPPER Over the years I have attended our state, Wisconsin, and the NTA
convention all over the U.S. It is a real opportunity to buy supplies at bargain
prices, meet trappers with new ideas, and enjoy the heritage we must protect. The
smell from the lure vendors, the sight of the tanned pelts, the buckskinners, the
GREAT demos, the auctions, evening get together, and best of all old friends. ******************************************************************* Name:
JOHN WARNER IN A WORD........FELLOWSHIP ******************************************************************* Name:
harold I liked the demonstrations and the willingness of the participants to answer
questions and help you on an individual basis. I also liked the fact that there were
lots of vendors who I had not seen advertised in THE TRAPPER AND PREDATOR CALLER or on
the internet. There are a lot of good products and ideas out there that I had not seen
or heard of before. ******************************************************************* Name:
marshall owen the willingness of the other trappers to share their knowledge with
others and of course the good food provided by the ladies of the convention ******************************************************************* Name:
ed i enjoy talking to the dealers and trappers that i read about in the various
publications that i recieve.
******************************************************************* Name:
Justin Ratcliffe i am a member of the virginia trappers assoc. and at our state
convention and fursale the things i liked best was seeing how much fur and other goods
people brought in. i also liked seeing all my trapping friends. ******************************************************************* Name:
Jim Severing talking to other trappers, the demos, selection of lures, baits,
traps, urines to choose from, no postage fees, sharing and exchanging ideas and
stories with friends around the campsite, ect. ******************************************************************* Name:
Brent i attend all the conventions i can go to i love them there are usually good
deals and great opportunity for us youngsters to pick the old timers brains for some
secret hidden tip they have ben holding onto. also the demonstrations that they have
really benefit us beginners and the best part of all is just trading stories with
other fellow trappers and to see all the people that are keeping this sport alive. ******************************************************************* Name:
scott lula the demos are great and informative, and the vendors make me feel like a
kid in a candy store ******************************************************************* Name:
Kim Marie Page This year was my second year going to our state convention (PA). I
liked the demos and speakers the best. I learned alot of new things to try on my line.
I also enjoy seeing new items and talking with other trappers. ******************************************************************* Name:
CoonDuke The congregation of the trade's most knowledgable men, any supply or gear
imaginable for sale, and getting the opportunity to meet new people and visit with old
friends. ******************************************************************* Name:
Obejoyful I've attended the last two western states nta conventions and will
continue two attend them. I've attended every one of our state conventions as far beck
as I can remember. National conventions are just to far away and cost prohibitive.
Meeting up with old friends I've not seen for six months or so and catching up on the
gossip is my motivation for attending. Buying supplies and watching demos are a
secondary reaon for attending. ******************************************************************* Name:
Gage Drift My favorite aspect of trapping conventions is the people. It's good to
associate with fellow trappers. I also think conventions are a great place for good
ideas to make the rounds. We need to be well informed. Gage ******************************************************************* Name:
ID Trapper I have been to my state and the Western NTA conventions. I really like
the demos and all the dealer displays. Can't seem to get enough! ******************************************************************* Name:
tbear When I was younger it was the demos... Now, although I still enjoy the demos,
The best thing is just the general atmosphere of the place, and a chance to spend time
among good folks who share my interests. ******************************************************************* Name:
Jack Turner I have been to two national conventions and every OSTA convention since
1993. I have always enjoyed meeting those trappers that I have heard or read about. I
also enjoy meeting those that have written material (books/articles) or produced a
video.Secondly, I like the one-stop-shop where I can buy everything I need in one day.
Of course, watching demos is a third reason to attend a convention as you can gather
tips for more effective trapping. If you have never been to a trapping convention you
really do not know what you are missing. ******************************************************************* Name:
Tom Morelock my main enjoyment is being able to see old friends and catch up on
things. kind of like the old mountain man days. ******************************************************************* Name:
Robert Rivers I think I enjoyed the demos. ******************************************************************* Name:
Hal It's hard for me to say, but I do enjoy the companionship of my trapper
friends.
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