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Topics: Nuisance Animals. All trappers: Have you ever targeted specific nuisance animals to be removed for homeowners or landowners?
Review This Topic
Bodygrips on Land. All Trappers: What is the largest bodygrip trap you can set on land in your state.
Review This Topic
Bodygrips in Water. All Trappers: What are the restrictions for setting bodygrip traps in water in your state? Must they be partially submerged, completely submerged, or otherwise?
Review This Topic
Avoiding Possums. Canine Trappers: What measures do you take
to avoid possums in your canine sets? Review This Topic
Snare Usage. All trappers: Can you and do you use snares on
your trapline? What percentage of your set are snare sets? Review
This Topic
Selling Coons. Coon Trappers: How do you sell your raccoons?
Whole, skinned, skinned and frozen, or stretched and dried. Explain why you choose
this method. Review This Topic
Coon Lures. Coon Trappers: Do you prefer a "sweet"
smelling bait/lure or a "fishy" smelling bait/lure for coons? Please
comment. Review This Topic
Land Stakes. Land Trappers: What kind of stakes do you use for
land trapping? Steel, Wood, Cable Stakes? Please describe. Review
This Topic
Water Stakes. Water Trappers: What kind of stakes do you use
for water trapping? Steel, Wood, Cable Stakes? Please describe. Review
This Topic
Boots and Waders. Water trappers: What do you wear on your
water line -- boots, waders, or both? All things being equal, do you prefer one over
the other? Review This Topic
Replies: Nuisance Animals. All trappers: Have you ever targeted specific nuisance animals to be removed for homeowners or landowners?
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Name: Derek Dutton
Yes. I targeted beaver for a landowner and by doing so i gained access for hunting and coyote trapping on his land. trapping nuisance animals is a great way to gain access.
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Name: Paul Gingras
Yes,Racoon.
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Name: RiverOtter
Yes, mainly beaver, but also bobcat and raccoon on occasion.
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Name: Larry
k9 coyote fox. I have trapped problem beaver, although I have only done so during our regular trapping season. In PA that is the only time you can trap beaver even if you possess a license to trap nuisance animals. I have found this to be an excellent way to secure permission to trap other furbearers on land that is otherwise inaccessible to trapping.
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Name: don
Yes have caught coon and possums for home owners. Muskrat, coon, and beaver for golf courses and businesses. don
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Name: Paul Fox
Yes, mainly coons, possums and ferril cats. for nuisance animals I always trap around houses and domestic pets ,so I always use live traps. For bait i use peperoni and/or hony.
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Name: Randy
I target coon all year around for anyone that has problems with them. I use cage traps in the off season or around homes or somewere I might catch someones pets.
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Name: beaver tpaper two
Yes beavers in Arkansas they have a bounty ten to fifteen dollars for there tails. Last winter I got over 100. This summer trapping is much harder everythings so grown up it makes it hard to see where the beavers are moving. I'm looking forward to winter when the frost kills all the green stuff so I can see the trails. ps. I use snares.
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Name: Hal
I've done beaver, raccoon, muskrat, coyotes, possums, skunks, and even fox (that were eating ducks). Personally, I like to try to get the critters thinned down during trapping season. While I do maintain an Ohio Nuisance Trapping permit, I really dislike doing nuisance work in the summer time, but I will do it on request, especially for people I know. I do a lot of nuisance beaver work during the winter. That way I can double up on the pelt too.
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Bodygrips on Land. All Trappers: What is the largest bodygrip trap you can set on land in your state.
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Note: I guess I didn't phrase this question quite properly. A number of people have responded, without telling us what state (or province) they are from. -- Hal
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Name: Tim
220 is the largest in NY
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Name: MARTIN GRUBER
In Illinois, 220 size 7"x7".
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Name: bobber
We are allowed to use up to 220 size bodygrips on land here in NY.
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Name: getting started
(State?)On public land a 160 inless its 4 or more feet of the ground, or made inacesable to dogs. On private land there is none.
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Name: Obejoyful
In Arizona only 119s and 120s may be set on land.
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Name: RiverOtter
(State?) 330 unless within 250 yards of a dwelling. If thats the case, it must be set on or in the water.
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Name: donwh
220 can be set on land here in Illinois. I also trap some back home in Missouri and a 110 or 120 sized trap is the largest that can be set on land. don
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Name: Gary Logsdon
In Kentucky 220,can live with it, know how to set and where to set
miss dogs & cats keep good PR
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Name: TexA
(State?) 220 Conibear
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Name: andy
(State?) 220 is the biggest
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Name: Paul Gingras
Here in Maine we can only set the 120 on land. The 160 to 280 can go 4' above land on a pole set and the 330 must go under water.
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Name: Alex
In Indiana it is the Conibear 220 (7 1/2 x 7 1/2). The larger Conibear 330 must be set underwater.
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Name: Brandon
In New Hampshire #220 and smaller can be placed on the ground, larger than #220 must be five feet above ground not including fresh snowfall.
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Name: Derek Dutton
(State?)7 inches if square, 8 inches if round
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Name: trapper chas
160's in Arkansas
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Name: skip ruhl
We can only use 6.5" jaw span. in a water course . In pa, The term "water Course" is up to the Wardens discretion.
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Name: Hal
In Ohio, 5" (inside jaw spread) is the largest bodygrip trap you can set on dryland.
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Bodygrips in Water. All Trappers: What are the restrictions for setting bodygrip traps in water in your state? Must they be partially submerged, completely submerged, or otherwise?
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Note: I guess I didn't phrase this question quite properly. A number of people have responded, without telling us what state (or province) they are from. -- Hal
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Name: MARTIN GRUBER
In Illinois, a 330 can be used if it is at least half submerged at all times.
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Name: bobber
We can set 330 sized bodygrip traps for beaver in NY, but they must have a tension adjustable trigger and the trigger can be no more than 6 1/2" long, with the wires crimped together. There must also be a free space of 8" inside of the trap , from the hinge to the side of the trigger wires. This regulation applies to only to areas where there isn't an open otter season. They must also be completely submerged. This has caused considerable conterversy here in NY and has divided trappers and the NYSTA and the NY DEC. We can still use the 160, 220, and 280's though(the 280's only in the water, completely submerged), go figure? This new regulation was implemented mid-season this past Feb. 2005, and is supposed to prevent the accidental capture of otter. Many trappers, myself included, think that we may see the use of the other bodygrips restricted in the near future also.
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Name: Obejoyful
That I'm aware of, no restrictions exist in Arizona when it comes to the size trap or type of set for bodygrips set in water. This is probably due to the fact that very little water trapping goes on in Arizona. Our beaver and rats are of very poor quality so those who do water trap do it so they can say they've done some water trapping.
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Name: RiverOtter
State?) No restrictions.
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Name: Gary Logsdon
We can use 330's in Kentucky. In water no restrictions.
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Name: Bridger
from what i could tell when i talked to the game warden, in Bama conis bigger than a 5 in jawspread have to be in water. Just in water where a dog won`t get them. No specific depth just set where a dog won`t get to them. There are no size limits under water i know of.
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Name: Brandon
There are no restrictions on size or submersion when placed in water in New Hampshire
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Name: Derek Dutton
(State?) 10 inches if square, 12 inches if round
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Name: trapper chas
(State?) 1/2 under water
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Name: skip ruhl
(State?) they must be set in a "water course"
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Name: Hal
In Ohio, bodygrip traps larger than 5" (inside jaw spread) must be set "in water". Bodygrip traps larger than 7" (inside jaw spread) must be completely submerged.
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Avoiding Possums. Canine Trappers: What measures do you take
to avoid possums in your canine sets?
Name: Obejoyful
Never have to worry about catching possums because there are none in Arizona. Thank you Lord. We do have stinkers though.
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Name: Matt Camera
I really don't think they can be completely avoided but when I am entering a new farm to set I will let my son make a bunch of sets with really rotten smelling bait and he usually thins the number a little plus he likes to catch them.
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Name: KD
I'd say, first would be location. Keeping sets out in the open, away from fencerows and such, has kept the grinner catch down quite a bit. Second, pan tension. 2-3 pounds of tension avoids alot of them. Also, staying away from the really rotten, overly tainted bait helps alot, too.
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Name: bobber
I avoid using bait especially tainted bait at sets. It's better to go with a flat set and use just urine or lure. Also try dirthole sets without any lure or bait, just the attraction of the fresh dirt. In new areas that you haven't trapped before it pays to put in sets for the possums and try to trap them down a bit before hand. This is a good thing to do anyway as they are such a destructive predator to small game and ground nesting birds.
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Name: Rick Blasic
By avoiding an area with heavy cover.
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Name: Donald F. Baer
Oppossums are a way of life in Ohio. If you are not catching oppossums you are not canine trapping. The oppossum is attracted to almost any scent and particularly to tainted and rotted flesh. One defense technic is to double up with your sets at prime canine trapping locations. This way if you catch a oppossum you still have a shot at the canine that moves through the location. Another method I employ early in the season is to check your traps right after nightfall. The removal of these non-target animals early in the night will increase your target animal catch rates. I have been also known to set oppossum sets in areas that are in highly populated with oppossums. I use these less since the manner in which I set them is quick and usually only catches skunks and oppossums. I would much rather set another canine set that gives me another opportunity to catch the target animal.
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Name: Ethan W
when i put sets in fields i put them farther out in the field instead of right on the woodline, because possoms dont really travel farther out like canines do
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Name: Taylor
The only way I have effectively found to not catch possums is to catch possums. When you move to a new area to run your trapline, you have to weed out the possums by catching them and relocating them, or catching and killing them. That is really the only way I have found around the possum problem.
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Name: tomkat
I all way guard all my dirt holes and sent post set with a 220 in a box....Find a nice funnel on the edge of a creek,,set your 220 with a box...go 10 foot over and make your coyote or bobcat set...If done with only urine and gland lure...you show up in the mourning, and the grinner will be in the box. Trap pan tentision has alot to avoid the grinners also. try at least 3 to 4 pounds of trap pan tentision, Each season I catch my fair share of grinners,100 to 150 and only catch 3 to 4 in foothold traps, the rest in 220's. good luck
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Name: Jeff Evans
This may sound strange but I don't avoid them at all. To me it is another good catch and I don't shy away from them at all. I have heard that if you do not use bait but only lure you can avoid them.
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Name: Fatboy
I don't use meat based bait, because it seem it will attracts possums.
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Name: John Davendonis
To avoid AS MANY possum and non target catches, I like to stay back off the headgerows, stonwalls, etc., prefably where the prevailing wind would blow the lure, bait, or whatever attractor your using across the path of your quarry. I also like to stay away from rotten smelling baits or lure. Of course, these things will only Help reduce the possum catch.
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Name: foxgeterrr'
The best way to avoid possums is to stay away from the brush. Instead of putting your trap right against the fence line, move it out into the field several yards. A possum will hug the cover and hopefully pass your set, while wandering fox will find it. Another good way to avoid is to back off the bait in the early season. A lot of bait early when its warm creates a lot of smell that attracts a lot of trash animals. Remember that foxs nose is good and he'll catch wind of the faintest smell.
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Name: Hal
My most successful method for avoiding possums is using increased pan tension on my canine traps, at least two pounds. This cuts way down on smaller possums and smaller non-target animals. Other than that, catching possums is just a fact of life on my canine line, and it really doesn't bother me too much.
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Snare Usage. All trappers: Can you and do you use snares on
your trapline? What percentage of your set are snare sets?
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Name: Derek Dutton
I use a combination of both.
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Name: KD
Most definately. Snares make up probably at least 60-75% of my coon line. We have alot of corn here where I'm at, and snares have definately made life a whole lot easier. So much more efficient and effective. Now, all I have to work on is getting them snared where I want them snared (neck and upper body caught as compared to lower body caught).
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Name: bobber
In N.Y. we aren't able to use snares ,in fact if you trap in the southern zone of N.Y. you may be restricted in the size of body grips that you set in water in the future, because of new regs. to protect otter. There are rumors that snares may be made legal in the future, hopefully, we'll just have to see what happens.
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Name: Bill M
No snares here in NY. I wouldn't mind using them up here though.
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Name: Obejoyful
As of now snares are illegal in Arizona. Wish they wern't but that's the hand we've been delt so we just have to play it.
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Name: Wade WIlken
yes, they are very easy to set and use, I am 15 and this is my first year running a line. I catch most of my coyotes in snares. Just find a trail where they are running that goes under a fence and wire a snare to the fence with the loop where they will be sticking their heads through. I like to use them because they are cheap and really easy to use.
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Name: Rick Blasic
I'd love to try trapping canines with snares. And next year it will be possible here in Pennsylvania. Right now ,only Beaver is legal to snare here.
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Name: Dan
I am just starting to use them for beaver and coyote trapping. I will use them more every season.
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Name: drydenj
about 8/10 percent of my catches are caught in snare the rest in a bucket trap
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Name: Ethan
i like snares because you dont have to take the time to set traps, but i do like traps also, i use snares for coon mostly but when it snowes i use snares for fox and coyote 40% of my traps are snares
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Name: Mike
I use snares exclusivly for canines because i trap in Northern Alberta and there is deep snow and freezing temps. that make footholds almost impossible to use. I trap mainly beaver and 'yote 70% 'yote and 30% Beaver however i catch probly 50/50
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Name: Rut
i use 95% snares and 5% foothold then when the snow falls i switch to box traps or cubby sets.
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Name: Fatboy
I can and do use snares where I trap on some of the farms. I will set my snares in fence lines where the fox and coon are crossing. I can't use them on one farm where I trap because of the neighbors wandering dogs.
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Name: John Davendonis
In my area of N.Y., snares are only legal for nucience work, but I do apply them in situations of nucience work. Unfortunatly, snares make up only a very small percentage of the sets on my trapline. I wish Ny would take a differnt view on snares, for they can be used as a very effective conservation and managment tool.
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Name: ralph
I started using snares two years ago and now i use them almost all of the time. Lighter, easy to carry, and much easer to set. Thay don't freez. I still use some 330 and some footholds on beaver but the snares take quite a few of them also, it's mostley educating myself in the use of new equip.
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Name: Hal
I've always been a advocate of using the best tool to fit the situation and when a snare fits best that's what I use. Many times, though, I refrain from using snares on beaver and coon most of the time because of fur damage. I don't know what percentage snares I use maybe 10 to 30% depending on the situation.
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Selling Coons. Coon Trappers: How do you sell your raccoons?
Whole, skinned, skinned and frozen, or stretched and dried. Explain why you choose
this method.
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Name:
Obejoyful
I sell all my fur including coons fleshed, stretched and dried. Here in
Arizona we have no market for fur handled any other way. In addition I enjoy my time
in the fur shed and take pride in well put up fur. When I go to our association
auction, I want to be proud of my offerings when they go to bid.
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Name:
Chad W. DuBois
I sell my coons stretched & dryed. I trap in upstate N.Y. my
grandfather was a great trapper & he always stretched & dryed all of his furs.
I kind of think I would be breaking the rules if I sold them in the round. Sometimes
the fur shed lights burn late into the nite. But I have no regrets when the fur check
comes in. Any animal I catch I want to make the most of them because thay are
magnifficent animals.
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Name:
Ken Styers
at the beginning of the season when the fur is obviously prime, however
the hide is still blue I sell skinned because we are only docked $1.00 for
non-finished fur. However we are docked higher for blue hides that are finished. once
the fur and hide is prime we finish the fur before selling, reason pride.
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Name:
Alex
whole
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Name:
donwh
I sell my coon skinned. I will freeze them until I get a batch together or
the freezer gets full then take them to a local buyer. This is easy for me and lets me
concentrate more of my time to other things right now like family and work. I have
never stretched and dried any pelts I plan to learn how and in a couple of more years
may try that.
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Name:
Ryan Boyce
i sell them whole because it is less hassle and you don't need to store
them.
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Name:
Charles Cook
I have to sell mine whole, due to problems with carpal tunnel. For
daily normal activity I'm not bothered. If I try to pull hides, I loose the strength
in my grip, to the point of not being able to control the fleshing knife. If I push
it, I suffer for days after.
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Name:
BBLWI
Currently I sell all coons in the grease, about 100-170 per season. I have
done so the last 3 years. The first 18 years I trapped I caught about 900 coons and
sold them all put up. Time is a big factor right now and also trying to find the best
market(s) for my early season coon. I hope to return to the put up fur when I am
retired or am able to take the time to do about 10-15 dozen coons per year. This just
may be the year to do so. I sold all my early coons in the grease and have about 5
dozen that can be fleshed and boarded. Bryce
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Name:
Virgil
skined and frozen dont have room or strechers to handle the job
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Name:
Wayne
I sell what the buyer wants and how they want it. Had buyers that wanted
clean put up fur, and buyers who turned put up fur away. wayne
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Name:
Larry
I seel mine whole because I don't have time to skin all my animals. I stretch
and dry everything else.
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Name:
bob evans
on the caecass or finished depending as to the time available.
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Name:
matt nasci
My father and I skin, flesh and stretch all of our animals.
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Name:
Andy Knowles
i sell my coon green, because it is easier then fleshing them and when
you do flesh them you only get .50-1.00 more. i just find it a lot easier to skin the
coon roll him up nose fisrt, put him in a gallon ziplock back (bigger coon are going
to need a bigger bag) and throw him in a freezer that i bout for that purpose.
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Name:
Daisy
When I sell my raccoons i sell them skinned and dryed unless i don't get time
to skin them then ill bring them down to the local fur company and sell them.
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Name:
Josh
Whole, because it saves a heck of alot of time not having to skin them
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Name:
shaggy
I have always sold either in the round or green, mainly because of time
involved in fleshing, This year I am trying to put up all my own and slowly getting
the hang of fleshing.
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Name:
Ironfist
I skin & freeze, due to the fact that I just started trapping and am
pretty much running blind on the whole sport. Thanks for all of your input on this
site.
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Name:
John Porter
I sell my coons put up. For one, I don't know a buyer in my state that
sells them in the round and also, I like the satisfaction of putting up all my fur.
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Name:
Tuff
My brothers and my buddy and I trap together, making a pretty good size pile
or fur. We've tried skinning and freezing, but in northern Illinois the buyers won't
pay anything more for skinned, than whole. The time, effort, and freezer space just
isn't worth the trouble. So we sell whole.
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Name:
warren
stretched and dried, I chosse this method because it was the way i was
taught and you get money.
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Name:
Ethan Welscher
I sell my raccoon when they are stretched and dried, because you get
top dollar that way.
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Name:
Devin Meyer
i sell my coon skined and frozen because I don't have a streacher
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Name:
Steven
we sell all of are coons skinned (green) it seems to us that they brought
just about as much at the fur sale as the stretched and dried furs.
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Name:
Mallard
I sell mine whole. With a 45-50 hr a week job, and a new born in the house,
my time seems short and the extra time I figue is best spent on the line running
instead of in the shed putting up coon. The price difference from my fur buyer is
minimul, and almost encourages selling whole. Once the chest freezer is full, I make
the run. I still make time to put up my rats and such, but the coons go whole.
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Name:
jon
skinned,stretched,dried
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Name:
Nick
i skin and freeze my coon because around here it isn't worth the time and
effort too flesh and dry them
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Name:
WRIGHT
Over the years i have sold coons many different ways. This year i have
stretched and dried them. I only do this because there is not a buyer close to me that
i am aware of. If i could sell them just skinned i would. I can catch more than i can
flesh and stretch. Stretched and dried allows me to mail them to a buyer.
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Name:
Kevin Tucker
Strectched and dried. Its the only way I knew until recently. I still,
however have not found anyone in my area the buys them other than stretched and dried.
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Name:
kyle finchum
I like to sell my fur Stretched and Dried... This the only to sell
coons, if you want to get top dollar for them... For a mimium, at least skinned....
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Name:
adam
whole, this is my first year of trapping them so i have not yet perfected the
method of skinning.
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Name:
mike
I skin the coon I catch because lack of freezer space. One year I fleshed and
stretch but it took to much time.
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Name:
cat skinner
I sell my coons stretched and dried. Although you get a better price at
the fur auction, we all know trappers usually arn't doing it for the income. I get
great satisfaction from trapping and preparing hides for market.
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Name:
ringtail
i sell mine whole to a local buyer.
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Name:
Jeff Evans
I sell my coons stretched and dried. I think I can get enough extra
money over the green selling price to warrent the extra work. And I also just like to
handle the hide from start to finish.
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Name:
keith donaldson
skinned, green, with all the fat still on - enough work for me just
to skin them all and I have never finished one - time is main concern as I am a full
time student and do not have a warm shop or anywhere to finish fur - I wish I had my
old wood stove and shop - it is bad enough trying to skin out frozen coon
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Name:
KD
I've sold everything stretched and dried for almost as long as I've been at
"it". I enjoy working with the fur and seeing the finished product. It also
lets me sell when I want to, not because I'm running out of freezer room or my animals
are starting to go bad.
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Name:
Hal
I stretch and dry my coon. There are several factors involved. First, I'm not a
big coon trapper so I never have a whole bunch of them to put up. Second, I ship all
my fur to auction so it has to be stretched and dried. Third, I like to put up fur.
Back to Top
Coon Lures. Coon Trappers: Do you prefer a "sweet"
smelling bait/lure or a "fishy" smelling bait/lure for coons? Please
comment.
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Name:
justice
fishy
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Name:
Chad W. DuBois
I like to use fishoil lures near water sets. But I have also had
luck with sweet lures near corn fields. The first set I learned for coon was an ear of
corn on a stake with a little molasses on the corn & a #1-1/2 c.s. bedded at the
bottom.
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Name:
tyler smith
eggs is the best and sometimes hunnybuns
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Name:
donwh
Both, I like sweet early and around urban setting for obvious reasons.
Marshmellows and a sweet smelling bait are a favorite on the suburban coon. I like
fishy later in the season and on the creeks. More of a chance to catch a mink too
which is always ok bye me. don
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Name:
wade
I use sligtly burnt corn (very effective)
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Name:
coontrapper
fish
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Name:
Nick
It all depends on where you are trapping. If I an trapping near water I tend
to use the "fishy" bait, but if I am setting traps on farmland and / or
wooded areas I stick to the sweeter smeeling baits.
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Name:
Joel
Early on I like a sweet type lure/bait. I mix 1/2 oz of anise oil with a quart
of honey. I like to start a small fire, burn an ear of field corn in it and put it out
by drizzling the honey-anise mix over it. Later on when it gets colder, I prefer a
stronger fishy type lure or bait. Joel
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Name:
Zane may
Well i prefer a fishy smelling bait becaus the coons responde to it more
than sweet and it really has a better sent to it
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Name:
justice dryden
i live in southern illinois and i like to use tuna that comes in
cans at the general store ive caught a few with sweet smelling bait such as ornge's
and candy but ive caught more with tuna and fish oil
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Name:
trapper5555
I can't seem to catch a thing on sweet lures. I don't understand this
cause everyone else has success with these. Fish and shellfish oil seem to be the only
thing I have luck with. However again this year I bought some sweet lure and bait to
try again. Can't wait to get deer season out of the way so I can try it out.
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Name:
Charles Cook
As a teenager, I remember seeing a racoon come up out of a roadside
ditch, dragging a dead skunk. In later years when I started trapping, I began using
skunt scent and did well on coon. I like it for it's longer pulling range. I used
mostly dirt hole and cubby sets with salmon, deer meat scraps, or standard fox lures,
etc. If they smelled it, they checked it out.
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Name:
Bryce
I prefer to mix fish oil with a sweet smelling lure and use that as a lure
and trailing scent combo. Works well, easy to use, good oder and lasts plus it is
pretty economical per set. Works good on canines and rats too. For canines I take the
same mix and add fox urine. Seems to work well
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Name:
traprjo
I use both with equal results if I am on location
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Name:
BRIAN
Fishy smelling along waterways and sweet smelling for land sets
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Name:
Larry
I prefer a fishy smeling bait if I use one. Recently Iv'e gone to a lure sold
by the gallon -I'm not sure what it has in it but it is very oily and smells very mild
alomost like used french fry grease. I dig my pockets and put a ball of grass in them
then sqirt the lure in the pocket and up the bank maybe 10 feet away from the water in
a line to my pocket. About 1/2 the time I use bait that I make myself out of jack
mackeral, honey and corn oil. You get a good oil slick on the water and it realy seems
to draw them. Using this bait /lure combo I had 6 coons in 6 pockets 2 days in a row
in about 50 feet of creek bank . Yuo can smell it in the air when you get out of the
truck.
*******************************************************************
Name:
bob evans
sweet, i trap in areas with family cats and would like to avoid them were
possable.
*******************************************************************
Name:
andy knowles
I think either lure is good for coon but i like a more fishy smelling
lure when i start to trap at the begging of the season but when my catch starts to
decrease i might rebait the set with grape jelly or some other sweeet smelling bait.
remember more bait is better then not enough so don't be afraid to use a lot.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Joseph Robinson
I preffer hardcore raccoon lure it has a really sweet smell to it
that I can't describe it works real well in all condtions were I am at but I preffer a
really sweet smelling lure for coon.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Daisy
I preffer the sweet smelling lure over the fishy because i think it works
better on land adn thats where i trap
*******************************************************************
Name:
Josh
I prefer to use sweet smelling bait. My favorite kind of bait to use are
marshmellows.
*******************************************************************
Name:
John Porter
In my area, I feel it depends on what time of the year it is. Early
fall, I will go with something that smells sweet as most of the coons are feeding on
berries and apples. Once cold weather hits, I like a fishy smell as I use it as a type
of LDC. Even when using a sweet smellig lure, I always use fish as a bait.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Tuff
When baiting my sets I first concider what else might be attracted to my set.
Out in the timber or down in the creek I use "fishy" smelling bait because
it not only catches coon, but also mink and sometimes muskrat, without worring about
cats. In barns or near urban areas I use "sweet" smelling bait, because Cats
won't be attracted.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Devin Meyer
I like to use fishy smelling bait
*******************************************************************
Name:
Steven
sweet smelling early in the year, late winter switch to stinky stuff
*******************************************************************
Name:
Ringtail
I use a Mix of both i blent 3 parts sardines one part Peanut butter. It
seems to work perfect.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Mallard
I prefer a sweeter based lure upland early in the season as I feel as
though it reduces some of the non-target critters and yet still has great attraction.
I go to the loud fishy baits as I move to the water mid Novemebr, and really pour the
fish baits to it once the snow kicks in.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Chuck Odato
It depends on the area I'm trapping. If the area has a lot of muskrat
sign I use a sweet lure in hopes of picking up a couple rats. A lot of times I use a
fishy smelling lure in hopes of picking up a grey fox. I've caught a lot of grey fox
at water's edge using a pocket set baited with fish or other loud smelling bait. And I
mean these fox were in the water
*******************************************************************
Name:
Travis Kuntz
I'm relatively new to trapping but I use fish for bait and a
combination of fish/shellfish and strawberry jelly as lure. I mainly use pocket sets
but occationally a land set 1.5 and 220.
*******************************************************************
Name:
jon
i prefer fishy or other meat. it seams that sweet smelling can freeze up in
winter faster and i have had more luck with meat
*******************************************************************
Name:
nick
i use a sweet lure and a fishy bait
*******************************************************************
Name:
josh
i like the sweet smelling bait because it works realy good in louisiana were i
live at yall should try the sweet smelling bait if u dont use it it might work good in
your area
*******************************************************************
Name:
WRIGHT
Fishy, because i don't catch many possums and skunks. Where they are
plentiful i use the mini marshmellows. I have noticed that i catch more with fishy
smelling than sweet. Seems to call them better.
*******************************************************************
Name:
grouse
On my line I prefer a fishy smelling lure because where I live in PA it is
primarily grape farms and fall is harvest season so the coons have plenty to eat. If
you give them a different smell it will often pull them a good distance to visit your
set. I don't know that they are tired of eating sweet things, it just seems to peak
their curiosity.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Kevin Tucker
Sweet early on and then fishy later. Basicly I change when I stop
catching.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Dave Lyons
Well this really depends on where I am trapping. If I am in wild grapes
or blueberries I like sweet stuff but also a little fish oil. Now when I am water
trapping fishy and fish oil the way. Dave
*******************************************************************
Name:
Kyle Finchum
All and all, I think coons like both. But to get coons to your set the
quickest, I like fishy bait (Jack Mackeral). I like to use Fish oil as trailing scent.
This seem to work the best. I also like to use a sweet lure, to keep the coons at my
sets longer.
*******************************************************************
Name:
cat skinner
I perfer using a fishy bait early in the season but then switch to
sweet lure later in the season. I think the fishy bait is more natural in the early
season.
*******************************************************************
Name:
coon man
Fishy deffinately fishy thats all i use. On my trapline ill get bundles of
coons using buffalo creek coon bait, its fishy. out a table spoon of that in a bucket
with a 220 at the opening never fails.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Morgan Anderson
In a good pocket set I use both. I use fishy in my bucket sets and
either in my dirt holes.
*******************************************************************
Name:
aaron
Fishy.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Jeff Evans
I have had better luck with fish and a squirt of fish oil than any sweet
bait i,ve made up myself. It seems the sweet bait set has to stay out longer to get
any activity which could mean it doesn,t call long distance enough or i,m not placing
the set where a sweet bait set should go.
*******************************************************************
Name:
keith donaldson
fishy in the pocket set and a sweet anise like lure on a branch up
higher for call
*******************************************************************
Name:
KD
I mostly set blind for coon, but when I do use lure, it's usually of the fish
base type. Except if I'm cage trapping in buildings, I'll usually use a sweet type
bait or lure to avoid the barn cats.
*******************************************************************
Name:
mark
i have heard that both work well but i have never had any succes with the
fishy smell but have never tried the sweet smelling lure>
*******************************************************************
Name:
Derek Dutton
I use a combination of both.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Hal
From the comments above, I guess the jury is still out on this one. I use a
combination myself, tending toward sweet odors early in the season and more fishy
odors later on.
Back to Top
Land Stakes: Land Trappers. What kind of stakes do you use for
land trapping? Steel, Wood, Cable Stakes? Please describe.
*******************************************************************
Name:
trappermanMN
i definetaly prefer rebar over wood but depending on the size of the
animal being targeted you may want to consider length of stake and chain or cable
leader.
*******************************************************************
Name:
raven2828
Both cable and re-bar steel. rebar for most set as they are easy to pull
out and change the set. cable for slide wire sets and others where I know are
productive.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Rob W.
My partner and I use the "Pogo" anchoring system. It is a cable
stake with a fender washer on the end held with a j-hook rivet. We use the 2 inch
washers on land. They seem to hold well. It sure is nice to carry all of your stakes
at once without alot of weight. The only problem I can think of is that you need a
special end on the driver to make them work.
*******************************************************************
Name:
tom
3/8 to 1/2 inch steel rebar with washer weleded on top
*******************************************************************
Name:
Ryan Fullman
I use steel stakes but always remember to dye and wax them with ur
traps and don't pound them in the whole way leave some room for the chain to swivle
*******************************************************************
Name:
Paul
I like wood clogs and cable. I used to use steel but have learnd that natural
is better for me anyway.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Brandon W.
I stake all of my land sets with 1/2" X 15-18" rebar stakes.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Jeff Evans
I use steel and cross stake here in Oklahoma. The only cable stake I own
is used to pull up the rebar stakes. As I,m 6 foot 3 inches tall I use a long one so I
get good leverage gives me a break from stooping so much.
*******************************************************************
Name:
LabelTrapper
I do not do much land trapping, but i use the cross stakes with the
center swivel rivet, i have also used Berkshires. This year i am going to try the Pogo
system, simply because it seems to be simple and cheap.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Paul Martin
I use rerod and hot roll round 1/2" and cross stake them for
coyote, single them for coon.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Don
I prefer 14 to 18 inch 3/8 or 1/2 inch rebar stakes. I cut the rebar with a
torch and weld a large nut or washer on the end. I always double stake even coon sets
I find it easier to drive 2-14 inch stakes than one 20 or 24inch one. Must be the
fragipan soil layer around here. Don't get me wrong though if possible I'll wire up a
big rock, fence post, or secure trap to a tree or some other type of naturally heavy
object to act kind of like a drag.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Loren
Steel 1/2" rebar. Length of 18". Has a 1" X 3", 1/4"
thick steel rectangle piece welded to the top. Looks like a "T". Has been
beveled on the bottom for better driving. Easily fits through stock swivels on my
Victor softcatch traps.
*******************************************************************
Name:
snairman
i use rebar with asher and nut on top
*******************************************************************
Name:
Dean
Depending on ground density a 18 inch long half inch re rod steel stake is
used in dirt.
*******************************************************************
Name:
beachsands
When I use to trap for land Critters, I liked a 16" rebar stake
with a swivel and "S" hook.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Tim
Hello. I use steal re-rod 18 to 20 inchs long with a washer or nut welded on
one end for coyotes and fox and sometimes coon.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Dave Lyons
Steel
*******************************************************************
Name:
ringtail
I use 1/2" rebar stakes 18" long with a nut welded on the top
for all my land trapping. For coon and fox i just use a single stake but for coyote i
always use a double stake swivel and double stake
*******************************************************************
Name:
traprjo
Cable stakes you cannot get anything lighter to carry that will hold even
in rocky ground if you can get it in it will hold
*******************************************************************
Name:
iluvny
Have always used rebar, will be trying some cable stakes this year for the
first time as I'm getting a bit older and they're not as heavy.
*******************************************************************
Name:
r montgomery
It depends on where you are, here in north central tx. we have black
dirt so i use a cross stake system with 18"x1/2" rebar and it holds even in
wet weather.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Tim Ballard
i use rerod stakes in length from 18 to 36 inches depending on the
soil. i use 15 inch oak stakes for snares
*******************************************************************
Name:
raven2828
I use a combination of rebar stell stakes and cable stakes. It depends on
the location. If I am in an are I have trapped before and I know it is productive I
will use a cable stake. Otherwise I use rebar.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Jeff Evans
I use steel stakes. And they are double staked because of the coyote
numbers we have in Oklahoma.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Bill
I use the disposeable cable stakes for land trapping. Although I dig up and
reuse them, until they show too much wear.
*******************************************************************
Name:
preacher_1829
land stakes I use both wood and metal. cable stakes are something I
have never tried.
*******************************************************************
Name:
John Davendonis
The cable stakes are my preferance. They really cut down on weight,
they hold well, and are easy to use. Even if you cant get the cable all the way down
in some places, 2or 3 inches sticking out is O.K, providing the soil type.Heavy dirt
or clay holds the best, while a longer stake might want to be considered if trapping
in soily conditions.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Hal
I use mostly rebar stakes, 3/8" in diameter. They vary in length from 12
to 24 inches, and are used according to soil conditions. All my canine sets are
crossed staked. A also use a fair number of cable stakes. I like them but much of the
ground I trap is too rocky to drive them.
Back to Top
Water Stakes: Water Trappers. What kind of stakes do you use
for water trapping? Steel, Wood, Cable Stakes? Please describe.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Bill M
I cut wooden stakes from the line as I go. I raid beaver dams whenever I
can. They always find the straight ones.
*******************************************************************
Name:
We
use the "pogo" anchor system. It's a cable stake with a fenderwasher on the
end held by a j-hook rivet. Our cables are about 18 inches long. For coon and rat sets
we use 11/2 inch washers. On beaver we use 2 inch. We fasten trap chains to stakes
with split rings. We have had 0 stakes pulled out. We can carry all of our stakes at
once, no problem. The only thing I don't like is that you need a special end on your
driver to use these. All in all I like these alot.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Cedar River Trapper
I use Stell Stakes.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Paul
If I'm staking in deep water I'll use drowning slides otherwise I use wood.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Brandon W.
Most of my muskrat and Mink sets are staked with rebar, they are more
easy to drive in hard mud than wood.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Jeff Evans
I tried steel and found out they just slip right out. So wood was the
next try and it has worked nicely. I use oak stakes from friends construction business
with holes drilled into them or what I can cut at the bank from small trees. Then turn
them upside down with piece of limb sticking out so the swivel end does not slip off
end of the stake. I can thank Hal for that one in beaver 2000 video.
*******************************************************************
Name:
LabelTrapper
I use your standard re-bar stakes, oak stakes, and Berkshire's with
cable, but i will probably be switching to the Pogo system, assuming it works.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Paul Martin
I use one rerod or hot roll round 1/2 " for coon and mink and
beaver, or I use wooden stakes for muskrat, mink, coon .
*******************************************************************
Name:
Don
I've tried metal stakes but on the rivers and creeks I've trapped in the past
but its easier to carry a light weight saw and axe and cut wooden stakes as I go. I do
cut a few before season each year but I will often just cut them when I need them.
Many times if handy I'll try and tie off my drowning wire to an uprooted log, tree, or
large rock. If you can do this it'll save a lot of time.
*******************************************************************
Name:
beachsands
For Mink trapping I use a 30" rebar with a T welded on the top.
Muskrats, generally a branch or a piece of local brush with a Conibear and a heavier
tree branch for foot holds.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Tim
I use wood on all my water sets. I'll use whatever is readily available.
*******************************************************************
Name:
ringtail
For water trapping i use a 30" t-bar stake that is 3/8"
diameter, I like the thirty inchers because alot of times you come across less then
perfect staking conditions and that extra length seems like it will hold alot more
*******************************************************************
Name:
traprjo
cable stakes for ease in carrying and weight push them in and your gone
very easy and fast
*******************************************************************
Name:
iluvny
Have always used wood stakes for water trapping.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Tim Ballard
last season i started using the berkshire cable stakes on slide wires
for coon. a 12 inch wooden stake is my bank anchor. i still use long rerod stakes
croos stake for my beaver sets
*******************************************************************
Name:
cole
i normally use wood but when i can i will use 18 in rebar
*******************************************************************
Name:
fishtrapper32
steel, it weighs more and is harder to get pulled oput if it sinks
clear to the bottom and wedges itself in a log or something
*******************************************************************
Name:
Jeff Evans
I use wood stakes as they hold better in the mud we have here in
Oklahoma. I tried steel but they just pulled out easy when I tested them so I went to
the wood.
*******************************************************************
Name:
John Davendonis
When making drowning sets for beaver or coon, I use rebar. When
setting for the rats and mink, just wire the trap to a sutiable root or small tree.
The weight of the trap should drown any rat caught by the front foot.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Hal
I use a variety of stakes on the water line. I may use a steel stake on the
bank for a slide system if the soil is firm, if not I'll use a wood stake. I have wood
stakes made from 1 inch oak that I carry with me. If I need a tall stake, I just cut
it on site.
Back to Top
Boots and Waders. Water trappers: What do you wear on your
water line -- boots, waders, or both? All things being equal, do you prefer one over
the other?
Name: Al Dietz
On my water line I wear hip boots. Waders would be better in some
places, but I find them too uncomfortable to wear all the time.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Turtleman
hip boots i trap out of a boat& have fallen overboard and it's hard
to kick off chest waders & swim.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Judd Brooks (montrap)
I have used hip boots in the past but I am using my neoprene
chest waders more and more. I like the versatility of the chest waders. The neoprene
adds some warmth and doesn't fill with water so fast if I take an unexpected swim.
*******************************************************************
Name:
caleb
both no
*******************************************************************
Name:
Rick Blasic
I wear my chest waders for muskrat and beaver. But if I don't plan on
getting wet, I just wear rubber knee high boots.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Mike Drewel
I prefer waders on the creek and river that I trap on. The creek is
only 5ft deep at the deepest hole, when you see a good looking location on the other
side of the creek you can just walk across instead of having to find a shallow spot to
cross. Another reason I prefer waders, when you want to dig out a pocket you can get
down on your knees and get with it!!!
*******************************************************************
Name:
Ben
Waders hands down. When you slip and fall on your bum you don't get as wet. And
on those cold mornings they keep you a little warmer
*******************************************************************
Name:
Mallard
Our water tables are 2' below the norm, so its been hip waders for me for
the past 3 years. I prefer to buy gander mountain "guide" series mainly for
the warrenty. They are relatively inexpensive, and I can take them back within a years
time and replace them if they leek. I have tryed many brands, and really haven't found
any that last more than a season, so getting a new pair on warrenty seems to suit me
better. If they are sick of seing me back each year, I guess they should make a wader
that holds up to trappers work as well as their "guides".
*******************************************************************
Name:
donwh
I only do a small amount of water trapping. When its for rats or coon in
shallow water I wear a set of hip boots. I only wear waders when setting up a new line
and I do not know the water depth or when I'm beaver trapping in open water. I prefer
the hip boots for everyday trapping they seem to last longer and I'm more mobile in
them. They are easier to take off and put on a pair of boots for running my dry land
sets as well.
*******************************************************************
Name:
bclev
I usually carry both hip boots and knee high rubber boots in the truck. The
knee high rubber boots are nothing more than old hip boots that had a hole in them
above the knee. I cut them off right at the knee. Depending on how deep the water is,
determines which pair I put on when I get out of the truck.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Keith T.
I wear waders. Almost all of the water that I am walking around in is
chest deep in some spots. I've never worn anything else, probably just because of that
fact.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Mark D. Stackhouse
i mostly use hipboots , i do have to ocassionally use
chestwaders when in a marsh or for beaver trapping.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Nathan
We use chest waders when water trapping.
*******************************************************************
Name:
raven2828
Waders
*******************************************************************
Name:
M. Gruber
I use both, but spend most of my time in hip boots, on land as well.
*******************************************************************
Name:
lufkin trapper
I use the 17" grange boots by lacrosse. I mostly target coon
and very rarely get my feet wet, as I target the small streams.
*******************************************************************
Name:
John Porter
I wear waders about 50% of the time on my water line. Some yrs, I trap
out of a boat and don't need waders. Here in Maine, our water lines freeze up usually
in the first 3 weeks of the season and one can wear regular pac boots the rest of the
season. I prefer waders early then boots after freeze up.
*******************************************************************
Name:
corey
I utilize all 3 types...knee high, hip, and chest waders depending on the
location and what is being targeted.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Randy Bennett
95% of the time i wear neoprene chest waders, a lot of the waters we
go into is to deep for hip boots, waders let you go so many more spots, i can get down
on my knees a make a set without getting wet, i could never do that with boots. Once
in a while i wear hip boots, but not often. I also will never buy anything but
neoprene, i am going on my 6th season with the same waders (w/a couple of small
patches), my partner buys a pair of rubber ones every year.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Craig Cassel
Mostly chest waders, rarely hip boots. I prefer hip boots, they are
much less cumbersome than waders. But water depth leaves me few options.
*******************************************************************
Name:
woodtick
I wear both depending on the situation. I wear boots if I'm trying to keep
a low profile in areas where traffic is encountered. Or if I have to hike in a fair
distance. If I'm getting into serious beaver trapping, I prefer chest waders. I know
what type of water I'm likely to encounter on my trapline, and sometimes I'll switch
between chest and hip waders
*******************************************************************
Name:
David White
I use hip waders for my water sets and boots for coyotes and fox sets.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Buzzard
Hip boots......easier to get in and out of .
*******************************************************************
Name:
Kim Page
Boots. if its that deep I need waders I don't need to be in it, just for
safety reasons.
*******************************************************************
Name:
eric
felt soled waders for water trapping. They work great on slippery logs and
rocks, only downfall is that ice balls tends to form on the felt in extremely cold
weather.
*******************************************************************
Name:
Hal
Most of the time, I wear hip boots. They are more comfortable, and I can move
around better in them. I do wear chest waders sometimes especially if I know the water
is deep. Also, I often wear chest waders when I'm in a boat. It seems like I'm always
splashing water around and I don't have to sit in mud end up with a wet seat when I'm
wearing chest waders.
Back to Top
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