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Topics:
Freezing Weather. Land Trappers: How do you protect your land sets from
freezing?
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Handling Canine Pelts. Canine trappers: How do you handle your fur before you put it on the stretchers and before you send it to market.
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Cell Phones. All Trappers: Do you carry a cell phone on your trapline? Do you carry it on your person at all times?
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Trapping Partner. All Trappers: Do you trap alone or do you trap with a partner.
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How Long Do You Trap? All Trappers: Approximately how many days to you spend trapping, and how long each day are you on the trapline?
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Target Animal. All Trappers: What is your primary target animal and why?
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Encapsulating Coon Traps. Coon Trappers: Do you use any traps that encapsulate a coon's foot, or "dog proof" traps for coon? Why or why not. Review
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Trap Theft. All Trappers: What measures if any do you take to reduce trap theft?
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By Products. All Trappers: Besides the pelt, what other parts of the animal do you utilize, if any.
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Trap Clean Up. All Trappers. When do you clean up your traps and get them ready for the next season, spring, summer or fall? And is there any reason for this choice?
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Blind Sets For Coon. Coon Trappers: How much, if at all, do you use blind sets for coon. Please explain.
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Canine Lures. Canine trappers: How many different lures do you carry regularly on a canine
line? Review This Topic
Replies:
Freezing Weather. Land Trappers: How do you protect your land sets from
freezing?
Name: JD
Layers of salt,dirt,salt,dirt,salt.Or layer with propylene glycol.
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Name: NEBowhunter
carry dry dirt with. layer of dry dirt in bottom of trap bed, plastic
"baggy" under the trap, trap in bed, other half of baggie for pan cover,
more dry dirt salt and final dry dirt covering.
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Name: Paul Fox
Propylene glycol mixed with water. I also collect dry ant-hill mulch and use
that when it freezes.
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Name: Ric
I use straight propylene glycol npt cut when the temps. are in the freeze
thaw range. Once it stays below freezing just dry dirt or buckwheat hulls.
If it starts to warm up I'll apply PG directly to this covering
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Name: william duby jr
I add table salt to the dirt before bedding, then again after sifting dirt
to the set trap.
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Name: chris henderson
i use table salt
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Name: mark
I usually just salt the set real good.
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Name: trapper kid 93
EI get some dry dirt ahead of the season and put it in a five gallon bucket
then I mix antifreeze with it.
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Name: skipper
Non iodized table salt or waxed dirt
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Name: Jacob
You can put the traps in plastic bags. I do this all the time and have good
results
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Name: ed
trapping in single digit temps here in upstate ny...straight peatmoss is all
I use...still catching them
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Name: chris henderson
table salt
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Name: austin
i take half a bottle of scent killer spray fill nearly full with water and
then fill the rest with pickling salt, my first year using it, has worked ok
so far. I spray it in the trap bed, then spray it on after i cover the trap.
Put it on heavy. Good luck everyone!
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Name: TrapperPaul
After digging out a hole and sinking my stake(s)I place wax paper in the
trap bed, and bed the trap. Then I cover with dry sifted dirt/peat moss,
pack down around jaws (you know the deal) then cover pan area with wax paper
and more dirt mix. If I have the trap bedded deep enough below grade this
usually works, but if not (instead of re-doing the set) I may remove the wax
paper and spray pattern with glycol mist. I have heard of other variations
on this, most of which may work well too. I like to shed as much water from
the bed as possible, rather than rely on the glycol, cloride, etc. Never
tried waxed dirt.
Paul
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Name: cwest
I'm in southern Ga few days is it that the ground freezes but on those days
I bed the trap as any other day but i use dirt from under old pack houses or
from inside old tobacco burns to sift over the trap to complete the set.
These places usually have little or no moisture in the dirt and the humidity
most often is very low on these nights.
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Name: Dktfireman
I make and use waxed dirt.
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Name: Jake
In ground that is allready frozen, I cut out the trap bed with a hatchet and
bed the trap in dry dirt. As an extra precaution, I mix table salt into the
dry dirt to prevent it from freezing.
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Name: Travis Keith
Ball up wax paper, straighten out and lay at the bottom of your trap bed.
Tear some strips of wax paper and put them along the edge of your trap as
you push dirt back in to surround the trap. This has worked wonders for me
here in Virginia. I had to learn the hard way! Last season, I set 14 traps
on a farm and I had action on 10 out of the 14 and all but one had a track
right on top of the pan! FROZEN STIFF TO THE DIRT!! Five of them were
bobcat! :-( A good friend of mine who has trapped for 30 plus yrs and a
contributor to some Fur-Fish and Game articles told me also to use some
cotton seed hulls as this will also keep your traps firing. Never used them
though.
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Name: Ray Johns
Well, I have dirt/sand that I keep in my trapping bag, this gives me
somthing to sift over the trap. Also if the ground is frozen, I use the dirt
to help bed the trap. Peet Moss works well too.
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Name: scout
All sets are made with waxed dirt when the cold weather comes. When snow is
forecast I make urine post sets before and during the snowfall with A cut
piece of white plastic garbage bag under the trap and doubled back over the
pan with a slit for the dog. No other covering except for the snow. Snow
sets are checked from as far away as possible.
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Name: redsnow
The last few years I've been using "nitrate of soda", sodium nitrate, as my
antifreeze. It's a fruit tree fertilizer, I sprinkle a little under the
trap, then mix it with my dry dirt covering. Never did measure how much I
use per trap, just guessing, I'd say about 3 tablespoons per #2-sized
coilspring trap. That's usually good for 3 or 4 "heavy" frosts, then I'll
remake the set.
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Name: Hal
When the weather is marginally freezing, I use propylene glycol thinned just
enough to get it to mist out of a spray bottle. This I spray into the dirt
as I make the set. When the temperatures fall into the lower 20's, I switch
to calcium chloride and sprinkle it on the set as I make it. I rarely have
the opportunity to trap for any length of time when ground stays completely
frozen. When it is completely frozen, I use dry dirt but often I'll mix
chloride with the dirt because I know the trap bed will eventually thaw, and
when the dry dirt becomes moist, it will again be subject to freezing. The
disadvantage in using salt or chloride is that it rusts traps badly. I would
never use salt or chloride on traps that did not have a wax or dip coating.
And when I pull traps up from one of these sets, I rinse them off well
before I set them aside.
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Handling Canine Pelts. Canine trappers: How do you handle your fur before you put it on the stretchers and before you send it to market.
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Name: JD
I make sure it's dry and clean before it goes on the stretcher. Before it
goes to market it gets brushed out,legs tucked in.
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Name: Buzzard
After skinning all fox are washed in cold water and snapped to get rid of
most of the water , then air dried , and then fleshed and stretched
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Name: walleye
After skinning I have an old washing machine that I use to wash up canines
with. then I "pop" the pelt to fling out extra water and hang it up to dry
before fleshing. I put my fur on wood and use an electric stappler instead
of push pins.
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Name: NEBowhunter
let dry if wet, comb out, skin, flesh, wash with soap, rinse and ring, wash
with fabric softner, rinse and ring, put fur out on wire stretcher till fur
is dry. then skin side out on wood stretcher, flip and done. comb out again
a pop out before presenting.
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Name: Paul Fox
If my pelts are really dirty, I will wash the pelt in cold water with a
little dish soap. If I don't wash it then I will "spot clean " it with
hydrogen peroxide to remove any blood that might be on the pelt. Remove any
burrs with a bent fork. Then I skin and flesh the pelt. I keep as much of
the front leg on as possible. After I turn the pelt I DO NOT pin the back
side of the pelt( that way it really makes the hips look full and bushy).
After I take the pelt off the board, I tuck those legs in the pelt; that way
it gives the pelt a real heavy feel to it. All my canines are put up on
basswood boards.
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Name: TrapperPaul
I check the critter for burrs, mud, blood, etc. and wash it with water if
need be, then skin them,wring them out maybe throw some fine sawdust on the
fur side and comb them out. This soaks a lot of the water out of their fur.
I will do this step with the days catch all at once to save time. Then put a
fan on them until dry. (I don't like to flesh them until they are dry, they
flesh better when cool, and because when I am done fleshing I want to get
them on the boards as soon as possible. when I skin fox, I use a piece of
metal rod to wedge between the skull and the ear, to help remove (seperate)
the ear cartlidge from the hide. Then when put on the board, the ear is
pinned forward over the eyes.
A good brushing is next (I like a fine dog grooming brush)and they are ready
for the stretcher.
After aligning the pelt on the board,(I use wood for my foxes) cut off the
lower lip (on fox, coon, mink, muskrat....unless for taxidermy use)and (when
appropriate)cut a "viewing window" in the belly.
Normally I tack out the tails good so they dry easily, and with mink and
muskrat I hang nose down so the grease (if any) will run to the front of the
pelt where it either drips off, or I happen by with a dry rag.
Mink and fox get the front legs pulled in so they are hidden, and the rear
legs get pinned down to the board opposite the tail.
The ears are tacked forward along the bridge of the nose into the eye holes.
Sorry to go so long on this, but I am a "tinkerer of sorts, and like to mess
with my furs when I have time. I am not putting up large quantities of fur,
so I can afford to spend more time with each pelt. I find though, that it
gives me satisfaction when I take my fur to sell it, and the remarks are
very positive. I hear many horror stories of how poorly done up many pelts
are.
I started doing alot more with my pelts this season, when I became aware of
several techniques that will add dollars to the fur check.
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Name: Bob
I hose the animal off to wash off all blood and dirt. I hang the animal by
its front paw until dry. If not completely dry after skinning, I hang the
animals pelt until dry. After the fur is dry I freeze the pelt if I am short
on time. I will then thaw, flesh, and stretch at a later day.
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Name: Hal
If the animal is extensively muddy, I wash the pelt and let it hang fur side
out overnight with a fan blowing on it to get it dry. However, if the canine
is relatively clean when I catch it, I do not wash it. Then it goes on the
stretcher leather side out overnight. I put all my canines on wood. (It
doesn't hurt if the fur is slightly damp, because it is going to stay fur
side in only overnight.) The next day I turn it. When the pelt is dry, I
remove if from the stretcher and give it a final brushing with a wire tooth
pet brush.
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Cell Phones. All Trappers: Do you carry a cell phone on your trapline? Do you carry it on your person at all times?
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Name: JD
Yes and Yes.
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Name: Greg Paulman
Almost always have my cell phone with me. The one time I didn't I had an
injury requiring immediate medical attention at the ER and surgery.
Fortunately there was someone with me that day.
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Name: sveinn
yes
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Name: woodsdog
Definetly! I'm a NYS Bow and Hunter Safety Education Instructor and the next
best thing to having a buddy along with you when trapping, hunting, etc. is
a means of communication in case you get into a fix of some kind.
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Name: tuff
Yes, most the time I do incase of emergencies and I need to make a call or
incase someone is tring to get a hold of me. But, some times I leave it at
home if I think I'll just check a few sets and be right back. Yes, if I have
it with me I have it in my pocket on vibrate and ring, unless I'm going to
be in the water, or just want to escape from people for awhile, then I leave
it in the truck.
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Name: Brian
Are you kidding me? I couldn't even get reception on some of my trap line!
Its amazing how we can't do without cell phones these days. How did the
world ever possibly go round in the past!!
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Name: Darrin
I carry mine all the time only because I am self-employed and sometimes work
7 days a week. Although when I am hunting and trapping I typically keep it
turned off, only checking for missed calls occassionally.
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Name: Getter
My wife and I got rid of all our cell phones last year, can't say I miss
them at all. Actually saved enough to buy a dozen new soft catch in the
first few months. How did we live without them before? I'll answer my own
question for you. Peacefully.
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Name: Bob Heese
Yes. Yes.
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Name: daniel shahan
ive always carried my cell phone checking traps, thats the only reason i
have one.
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Name: foxtrap
No. I get no service out on the line. I do carry it when I'm driving though.
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Name: w. duby jr
Yes, always on the trapline and always on me at all times.
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Name: rich
yes,yes
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Name: trapper kid 93
I trap mostly alone and am only 14 so I always have a cell phone with me
incase something bad happens like I break an ankle or get my hand caught in
a 330. I think its important to always think saftey first and better safe
than sorry.
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Name: David Riley
yes I do carry my cell phone with me when trapping. You never know what will
happen.
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Name: chris
yes
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Name: Alex Biddle
I always have a cell phone on me anyway cause You never know what is going
to happen, plus I never know when my truck is going to kick it's last kick.
so I always carry my phone. And if i'm wading in some water or something I
usually keep it in my pocket. If I have chest waders I have it on under my
waders. If I only have hip waders on I feel that I am safe enough not fall
in so I just keep it in my pocket. But when it is real cold my screen and
other parts of my phone work very slowly.
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Name: Buzzard
generally no to both
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Name: Mike McChurin
After living in the Stone age for so long, I actually have a cell phone now.
I do plan to carry it on the line and will more than likely carry it on my
person.
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Name: Jeff
I, personally carry my cell phone whenever trapping or anywhere I go.
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Name: dktfireman
I always carry my cell phone, (in a zip lock)
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Name: Hal
I have a cell phone, and I use it almost exclusively on the trapline. I do
not, however, carry it on my person. As others have mentioned. I don't get
reception on a large portion of my trapline. I carry it in the truck. If I
need to make a call I start looking for a place that has reception.
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Trapping Partner. All Trappers: Do you trap alone or do you trap with a partner.
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Name: JD
I trap mostly alone, except on the weekends my 8yr. old son goes with me.
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Name: RdFx
I used to trap alone for 51 years but find now nice to have someone along to help (during winter ice bvr season) . Ive always been lucky but saftey was always first in past years. I enjoy taking someone along and teaching as alot of things which i consider trivial in setting traps and trapping in general are a big thing with beggining trappers. Plus i always learn something from other trappers and even beggining trappers.
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Name: seg_sarge
Half season with, the rest pretty much alone
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Name: Skipper
Have always been a loner but always wanted tryu water trapping with a partner.
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Name: Creekwalker
I'd love to trap with a partner if it ever worked out. I have taken other people on my line, but more often than not, their interest in the details doesn't last as long as it takes to run the whole line, which then affects my focus. That can be frustrating when I'm trying to keep my eyes and ears on my surroundings, and my attention on what I'm doing. It's also tough when people get antsy and tromp around in places where I've taken pains to minimize the sign I leave. The other thing is that, as much as I would like to share the experience with someone who loves it as much as I do, I hate to give up the solitude.
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Name: Cannon Ball
Comment:
Alone
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Name: hotrod1901
i trap alone
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Name: Daniel Shahan
i like to trap with a partner, its twice the people, twice the help, and one more person involved in trapping to help fight for our rights.
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Name: gilgetter
alone
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Name: Trapper Paul
I trap alone, but would entertain trapping with a partner IF I found I could trust him/her with the responsibilities of the trap line, and regulation requirements.
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Name: John G
I do alot of my trapping alone. My job keeps me busy from light till dark during trapping season usually, so I set my traps on the weekends and check them very early in the morning. I just can't seem to find anyone else that's as crazy about catchin critters as I am! But I don't hesitate to let anyone tag along on the weekend so hopefully the fever will catch them and trapping will go on for years to come.
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Name: terry
yes i trap with my dad
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Name: Jim
i like to trap with my older brother or my friends. i usually take them along just so they get the trapping experience. i don't like trapping alone just because a lot of things can go wrong on a trap line and having someone there makes it safer and more fun
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Name: corley trawick
Yes i trap alone
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Name: soberat38
my 9 year old son (he snared our biggest beaver by him self. 51 lbs)
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Name: SwampRat
I trap alone the majority of the time. I work with one other guy sometimes, we run seperate lines but share my fur shed stretchers, skinning ect. It's nice to have someone to work out strategies and complain about the weather with. It's also nice to share fur processing tools to save cost.
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Name: Otterman
I trap alone most of the time I do take several people along throughout the season to observe
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Name: Dylan Nasi
I trap part time with a partner(like 2-3 weeks), but most of the time I trap by myself
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Name: Paul Fox
I trap alone, unless I take a youngster with me.
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Name: cooncatcher
alone
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Name: Jim Kesy
The 1st week I take vacation, so my brother & I are able to trap together. For the rest of the season I am out there by myself.
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Name: SW TRAPPER
I trap alone as far as adults but love to take my 9 year old son and 6 year old daughter to check traps with me.
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Name: mike paul
Alone
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Name: corley trawick
I trap alone.
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Name: Mike McChurin
I don't have a trapping partner in the strict sense. But, family or friends ride along occasionally. I don't think I would like to have someone along all the time, unless it was a novice wanting to learn.
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Name: Hal
Mostly I trap alone. I have had partners in the past, but only to share accommodations with. We had our own separate traplines.
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How Long Do You Trap? All Trappers: Approximately how many days to you spend trapping, and how long each day are you on the trapline?
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Name: JD
Around 70 to 90 days. 1 to 2 hours a day.
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Name: RdFx
Starting in October i set traplines out and continue trapping till last of April in the spring open water bvr season. Alot of times im up by 4 am and on the road by 5am and run lines till dark which in early part of season is till around 0730 then start back home base where im trapping. When the daylight saving time kicks in it knocks things back another hour so adjust things accordingly. Im spending 12 hours a day on lines especially when setting trap line up. I always pack lunch and water so dont have to stop anywhere. Also gas up night before. Early in season alot of my fur is just skinned and put in freezer to be put up later when things slow down or freeze up occurs and im not on line so many hours.
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Name: Earl (Skip) Ruhl Jr.
I go at it from two weeks before Thanksgiving starting with fox and coon then I hit the water for mink ,Rat, coon and fox till the end of mink season that ends about the second week of January .
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Name: Creekwalker
I typically trap all season with a few days off here or there. It ends up being about 100 days total. I save enough vacation to be able to trap 6-8 hrs a day during three weeks. The rest of the season, I only have time to spend 1.5-2 hrs a day running traps at a couple of spots.
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Name: hotrod1901
i spend 7 days a week. i spend 2 hours a day on my traplines
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Name: Trapper Paul
I trap all season for fox, mink, and 'coon.
I run traps each morning before work, and re-set traps after work each evening. Weekends are for moving to new locations, usually every two weeks.
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Name: John G
I spent about all of the 4 month season trapping last season. I spend probably 4 hrs. a day on weekends setting new traps and remaking old sets. During the week I usually spend an hour and a half or two hours checking them before work.
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Name: cole
were usally on the trap line for about 2-3 hours and we spend all week trapping
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Name: Kevin
3 months, 4 to 5 hours on weekdays, all day on weekends.
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Name: CORLEY TRAWICK
I am a nuisance permited trapper in louisiana . Ialso trap coyotes for live market . I am retired so i spend a lot of time aday an night on the line.
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Name: otterman
I usually trap 2 or 3 days a week my midweek run is 4-5 hours after work in the dark my weekends are 6-8 hours long both Sat. & Sun.
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Name: Creekwalker
With the exception of a day or two here and there, I trap all season--about 100 days. I'm usually out about 1.5 - 2 hrs a day. Wish I could fit more in.
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Name: Mike McChurin
Last year I spent only 2 weeks trapping. However, in previous seasons I trapped from the week of opening day till the end of season. I spend anywhere from 2-5 hours a day on the line. Depending on catches/remakes and/or how many new sets I am putting in.
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Name: Hal
I trap the early part of the season here in Ohio, then got out of state when it freezes up. I spend 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the line.
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Target Animal. All Trappers: What is your primary target animal and why?
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Name: JD
I would have to say coon because this is what the farmers I trap on want taken care of. Beaver would have to be a real close 2nd. For the same reason as coon and I prefer to go after beaver.
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Name: evan gourley
foxes-i sell to the live market
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Name: wmthrower
Beaver. It was the first critter I learned to trap and it just seems natural to trap the old chiseltooth
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Name: Charles Sanders
This year it was racoons, cuz we have a good supply of them here, and my traps were mostly of the #2 longspring and jump variety. I also tried my hand at coyote and bobcat, and caught more opossum than I care to admit. I've also targeted some beaver this year, caught one so far. Also, racoons are a good animal to learn on, and this being my first year, I felt it was a good selection.
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Name: bmead
coon because they are all over and easy to catch
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Name: littleguns
None speciffic, I trap multiple animals as a hobby.
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Name: 220cooner
coon, thats what i got started on, and theres not much else to trap were i do it
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Name: Rick B.
Although the intention is to target a specific animal,I am quite thrilled with anything that steps in the trap. This way I know the the set was made right and any fur in the shed makes me look good in front of the wife.
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Name: Jacob
My target animal is bobcat because they are a challange for me to catch that and they are killing all of the rabbits out at my farm.
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Name: trapper.chris
I want to trap coons, coyotes, possums because they get into my corn and kill my chickens
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Name: Darin Fry
Raccoons, mainly because they're easy to catch and bring descent money.
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Name: Stemmler
This year I targeted every furbearer for which there was a season, I had sign, and I had oppurtunity to trap. I set out primarily for fox, only to learn and progress toward coyote. I am more interested in the challenge than the value of the pelt. Next season I intend to trap for the species that I could not, did not catch this year; beaver, bobcat, mink, skunk and opposum. I live in PA so the draw for the bobcat tag is a challenge.
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Name: trav feasby
coyotes mainly because they are not easy to trap. i like the challenge.they have forced me to expane my trapping territory.
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Name: Nathan Roth
Raccoons are probably my most sought after critter due to the fact that they are very abundant where i live.
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Name: danny skinner
coon because I hunted them with hounds for 11 years and when i was 12 i got traps for my bday and set them and cought 4 coon the next day and just was hock seance then hunt and trap manly coon but some mink fox yots muskrat when i find them I am 17 years old
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Name: Joseph Sacco
beaver,they are the biggest water rodents and can be very disstuctfull. coyotte ,their abillity to be very canny, and to help the fawn population in the spring
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Name: Mark G Behe
I'll trap anything, but coons are my primary because they are abundant and close to home.
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Name: NEBowhunter
early, primary is coon because i get the most numbers and $$$ for the time and energy spent and that makes it easier for the wife when i go again the next year. late season, i target bobcats i enjoy trying to think like a cat and i just think bobcats are about the most awesome animal out there.
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Name: Creekwalker
I love chasing mink. I don't have the time it takes to get more of them, and I'd do better to spend the time I do have trying to catch more coons on purpose. But I just can't seem to make myself do it.
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Name: Nickolas Ziglar
coon mounting purposes
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Name: Weston
i mostly go for raccoon, yet there arent many round here, but the ones that are go for my chickens they are smart in the live traps i set. I know that they are there i just am not sure how to get them.
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Name: jaymz
trapping raccoons
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Name: Paul Gingras
Fox because of the challange.
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Name: water artist
beaver; in my neck of the woods(westeren NC) water animals are the only thing we can set for as we can't trap coons or canines.as far as the beaver over muskrat and mink i just enjoy catching them and land owners are more likely to grant permission for something that damages the property that noticably
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Encapsulating Coon Traps. Coon Trappers: Do you use any traps that encapsulate a coon's foot, or "dog proof" traps for coon? Why or why not.
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Name: Charles Sanders
Nope, cuz I don't have any. Thought about getting some and trying them out, though.
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Name: bmead
have not tried them yet
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Name: littleguns
I bought a half dozen this past fall and tried them. I like them pretty good and after some testing will probably buy some more.
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Name: 220cooner
yes i do use them, i started using them because i had a area with lots of coon, but i couldn't catch them with 220s. then i found them so fast and easy to set that ill be getting more
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Name: NTA Member
No, I would like to buy some of the Duffers Cooncuffs. I've heard that the tras work really good.
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Name: Darin Fry
I've purchased several of these style traps, namely the Coon Cuffs. I have not had an opportunity to try them yet. I'm sceptical as to how well they work, although I have heard of others who have had success with them. Free roaming dogs are a problem in many of the areas I trap, so I'm hoping to have luck with them.
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Name: T-R
I do not use them! The reason for not using them is that I have never bought any. I am thinking about trying some.
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Name: Mark G Behe
No they cost too much.
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Name: NEBowhunter
i do not. every year i think i've got a spot that they will just be the perfect thing and they don't produce like i think they should. most areas i'm reasonable sure i wont' catch a dog in my pocket sets and if there is a threat it seems an ol cage trap seems to do a better job for me.
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Name: Rich
No! You can only use them 15 days prior to footholds by water here and my fur buyer doesn't like coon taken that early so i wait until i can use footholds and try to make sets that will be appealing to a variety of fur bearers near the water. also i don't do any adc work or trap around homes but if i ever got the opportunity and needed to use them to make the land owner more comfortable with me trapping around dwellings than i would not be apposed to using them.
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Name: Paul Gingras
Yes, I started this past season with a half dozen and I will buy more. They are dog proof and there is no chewing.
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By Products. All Trappers: Besides the pelt, what other parts of the animal do you utilize, if any.
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Name: trapper65
we eat many of the muskrats and some of the young coon...Also love beaver haunches .Some people like male coon penis for keychain.
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Name: trapper kid 93
When I catch beaver, muskrat, and raccoon I'll take some of there meat and use it for bait. Ecpecialy a muskrat since everything is after them.
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Name: JD
Beaver castors and oil sacs. The whole muskrat carcass for bait.
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Name: Skipper
I sell on the carcus. but my fur buyer collects glands and skulls
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Name: NEBowhunter
glands, urine if any, carcass on some for bait, skulls on some
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Name: Jack Turner
I have utilized some meat to eat myself. Some of the carcass meat is used for bait for other furbearers. I have sold bones to artists and given some to schools for science classes.
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Name: MEtrapper
I almost always harvest the musk from my skunks.
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Name: fishermonger
small beaver get tanned ,hooped with willow, decorated with feathers and sold to the tourists for 150.00, the claws and some skulls get cleaned up and made into things my wife does and i tye flys with some loose fur
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Name: redsnow
Each year I'll have one or 2 people ask for a small coon carcass, for eating. Just the other day a man asked me for 2 muskrats to eat, years ago he trapped on the Eastern Shore, he said the meat was worth more than the fur. I'll BBQ a beaver now and then. I have donated skulls, to the local science/biology teachers. I know one guy that sells skulls, and "penis bones" on Ebay. About the only glands i save are castors, oil sacks, and extract skunk juice, but not very often.
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Name: littleguns
Depends what it is. On beaver i use the Castors and oil sacks. Then use some of the meat for bait. The rest goes to a dog man for his huskies. Rats I use for fisher and cat bait. Fox make a half decent coyote bait and cat works well for Fisher, fox, and coyote. I have in the past eaten coon, cat, rat, and beaver.
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Name: RobertInMaine
Mink glands saved for lure. Castors saved for sale. Carcasses go on a superbait pile or get used for fisher sets.
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Name: Larry
The feet from red fox make an excellent attractor for fox and coyote when they are hidden at flat sets. Also they work great when put down a dirthole. I save many skulls for a friend who likes to make novelty items from them.
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Name: Nathan
I Use Animal parts for lures and eat the Muskrats.
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Name: Posthole
Some carcasses such as rats are utilized for bait. *******************************************************************
Name: Dan
I use beaver castor in my own lure. That's it.
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Name: nathan nellis
meats from the animals are good to eat *******************************************************************
Name: Nick Wood
I tend to use some meat for bait like muskrat and beaver and i donate to skulls to my colleges art program, with coon i sometimes hang them in my woods so the birds can pick off the fat. and whatever is left i put in a dumping area for the crows.
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Name: Dusty
Skulls, tissue samples, and occasionally carcasses are donated to a local University research Museum. These specimens are used in perpetuity to answer various biological and management questions, often pertaining to areas of interest for trappers. Trappers often talk of contributing data used in management decisions or otherwise benefiting the species they trap, but in reality seldom do. This is a tangible way to positively influence the amount of data available to the scientific community. Contact your local University for more information.
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Name: Dan Teague
I use whole or half muskrats and beaver meat for fisher and mink bait. I have used coyote feet to make tracks at sets and as a lure.
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Name: don
I have sold and given away some coon and beaver carcasses. I use most of my extra beaver, muskrat, and fox carcasses for bait piles. I keep most of the coyote, beaver, fox, and bobcat skulls=easy $. that is about it.
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Name: Bryce
I am establishing a $2 coon carcass market. At least this low value will be income instead of cost. The rest of my animal parts are taken to a fur farm and dead animal disposal and get processed into by-product animal protein feeds or soap. I pay a service fee to the owner for his fine service that he lets me utilize.
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Name: Hal
I collect glands and eat a few of the critters I catch. I also make bait from some of the critters. I give all my excess beaver carcasses to people for dog food. The remainder of the critters are deposited in my woodlot where they grow trees.
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Trap Theft. All Trappers: What measures if any do you take to reduce trap theft?
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Name: trapper65
Check traps early in morning under cover of darkness...Carry fishing rod and bucket when checking traps..
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Name: Rabbitt
i try not to mark all my traps with flags only the beginning and end
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Name: JD
I do not set next to roads, yes I may be missing fur by not setting culverts or bridges, but to me it's just to easy for a thief to jump out grab your trap and back in their vehicle in probably less than a minute.
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Name: Skipper
the only measure I take is, whenever I think I am going to leave to much sign . eg snow or mud I will walk amywhere but near my set until I have to remove a catch,
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Name: NEBowhunter
stay away from heavy traffic areas, plain sight of people travel routes, slide wires to pull catches out of view, try not to get seen where you set and low profile looking sets.
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Name: Jack Turner
First, I try to trap on private property only. And, in most instances, I trap property where only I am welcomed (no deer hunters, other trappers etc.) Second, I check traps early in the morning. Years ago, when I was a firefighter, I checked right after daybreak. Now, I must check in the dark (05:30 am) before work. I try to wait until traffic has passed before using lighting to check traps. But, it's difficult at times.
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Name: dalton wickware
i dont tell people im a trapper because i've had over $300 in fur and traps stolen so now i'm hiding them.
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Name: KYLE
NOTHING
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Name: ed
land sets I put off the road out of public view...two reasons...trap thieves and general public...this also means out of sight of spotlighters too...water sets for muskrats I don't worry about too much but I do zip tie all my traps to the stakes so they are cumbersome...beaver traps I use 5' of 3/16" chain wired to disposable stake anchored out in deeper water so if they want to steal them they are definitely gonna have to bring tools....the chain is permanently attached to 330 and all I have to do is cut the cable underwater
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Name: littleguns
I try to hide the set best I can. If I know a traper is in my area I give as much leway as possible. I also introduce myself to the other traper. Once he knows you are there then it is a personal matter. As for the trap theif that is just that and not a traper. I check my sets early and hope I got there first.
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Name: Craig A. Walle
Currently I am running my 220 buckets for coon. I take the time to camo paint each bucket, nothing fancy mind you just something to knock down their appearance. When setting I incorporate brush and leaves into the set. After the set is made I make quick note of its location on a pad of paper. Never flag sets unless you are absolutely certain of the security of the area.
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Name: Mark
I try not to trap on heavily traveled trails and I camoflauge my sets very well so thieves won't see them. You don't have to worry the animals will smell them
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Name: RobertInMaine
I use cable anchors. Unfortunately, I pass up some really good spots that are too exposed.Check sets early as I can in the day.Blend in dirtholes.
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Name: John J. Stemmler
I make as many of my sets in areas that are obscure and usually take some walking to get to. My land sets are anchored with 15" cabled berkshire anchors that are driven deep enough to take 1 - 2" if chain and swivel with them. I attempt to check my line, which is short compared to many, in the early morning before first light.
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Name: M. Thompson
The fix for me is to perfectly blend the set into the surrounding ground. I've gotten good enough at it that my wife, knowing where the sets are, sometimes can't locate them.
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Name: erickr schaefer
I try and set up off the beaten path. Most of my sets are at least 1/2 mile from the nearest road. This may not work in places with a short season or people running a lot of traps.
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Name: Larry
Blended flat sets for canine and blind sets for coon, rats, and mink. Walking that extra few yards to put these sets out of sight of people traffic will go a long way towards keeping you traps and/or fur instead of losing it.
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Name: trav feasby
not much if they are going to steal them they probally will
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Name: Nathan
I Check Traps early in the morning Before Hunters are out, and do not use sets that stick out on public land.
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Name: Dave Detzel
I simply don't set in any location that I think others will be traveling in. And I've stopped using any type of eye-catching item as an attractor and just stick with bait and lures. I've had several traps stolen, and it makes me so mad after all of the work put in. I also set either very early in the morning or just before dusk so that I am less noticeable. I live in a suburban/rural area and there are lots of passers by.
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Name: Posthole
When trapping an area where theft is a "good" possibility I will set more snares. Figure I am not out as much if they are stolen or tampered with. Sometime I just try to avoid those types of areas all together. Some theft is just inevitable, Unfortunately.
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Name: Rick B.
I try to keep sets away from obvious areas and not that close to roadways even though a little more walking is involved limiting the number of sets that can be put out.
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Name: nathan nellis
well make better stakes to hold ur traps down. if one is hard to pull the theif will not try to get other traps cause they will be to difficult to pull out.
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Name: Nick Wood
i tend to avoid being seen by others and when i do unless im on my own property i will pull my sets, other times i try to blend them very well also i will set up a stick near my trap so i can check it from a distance(mostly used for cubbies and water sets)
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Name: archer01
I keep a low profile. Try not to be seen as much as possible. Blend trap in well so other people can't see it. I use brown roll paper hand towels to wrap trap in water. Looks like a rock when done.
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Name: Dan Teague
Email: dktfireman@aol.com
I avoid areas that are visible from public roads and use snares when trapping beaver in public waters.
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Name: skidway
I try to stay on private property with permission, to reduce theft. If on public property cable stakes are used because rebar stakes can be worked out easier and the traps are set where they and the catch are as far out of sight as possible.
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Name: don
I try to put traps where when a catch is made it isn't in plain site from nearby roads ect. I don't work to hard at it just use some common sense. I try and not waste too much time worrying about trap theft I just set traps, catch critters, and take the good with the bad. Time is the most important factor for me and trapping and I can't spend time trying to do tricks like slide wires under bridges and in culverts. If you trap enough you will be a victim of trap theft shake it off and go on.
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Name: Bryce
I have trapped for 26 years and to my best knowledge have had one trap stolen in all of those years. 1. I avoid most very public areas with foot holds. I used to never set the road right of ways and now I have done so for 4 years with no trap loss, but traps are not conspicuous or readily seen by passer bys. 2. Set a lot of private land and don't worry much about theft. 3. Trapped a very large public flowage for rats this season and all traps were staked with white stakes and flagging too boot. Three other trappers on the flowage no theft or encroachments.
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Name: Hal
I try to make my sets where they are not readily viewable from a road or highway. I also try to use more subtle sets when I'm setting where people might encounter them. However, I don't fret too much about theft. Yes, it happens but I don't let it get to me. If you trap very or run very extensive lines, theft is inevitable. I consider it a cost of doing business. If you go too far out of the way to avoid theft, you could very easily end up not catching as many critters. If the loss in the value of the critters, exceeds the loss in the value of the traps, then you come out behind and not ahead.
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Trap Clean Up. All Trappers. When do you clean up your traps and get them ready for the next season, spring, summer or fall? And is there any reason for this choice?
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Name: slick
i usually start cleaning my gear and traps starting the 1st week of sept. i know i should do it at the end of each season or at least early spring, but usually sept is my month. basically it is the best time for me and besides thats when i start getting the fever and the weather is usually a little cooler.
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Name: 220cooner
when ever i get around to it ("why do today what you can put off till tomorrow")
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Name: littleguns
Late summer. When trapping is over it is to cold to do any cleaning and then spring comes and summer follows so I have all those jobs that occur so late summer it slows down enough to be able to fit in all the trapping stuff.
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Name: Paul Fox
Summer.Becuase it's the only time of the year I have the time for it.
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Name: Rixk Davidson
I always start my trap preparations for the next year in late spring and carry over the putting of dye and wax to early summer to mid-summer. When the trapping season ends in the spring, late spring I boil my traps in a solution to help clean them up, especially the ones I use for land sets for fox and coyotes. Around June or early July I again boil and dip my traps in either logwood dye or walnut hulls (depending on my financial situation) and then the final process of dipping them in wax. I then hang them up in my shed that is very well ventilated. I like to get them ready for the fall season early like this because trapping season can creep upon you in a hurray and I like to be ready to go to field. Especially the fact that I'm busy fishing in the later summer to early fall, so the trapping season is right around the corner before youi realize it. By having all the preparation complete by early summer, all I have to do is maybe take them out and lay them in some natuaral growth to "air" them out for a couple of weeks, then I'm ready to go to the field on opening day.
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Name: C oonCaller
I usually get mine ready in late summer early fall. I don't have much of a reason for it just always done them later in the year.
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Name: KD
I hate to admit this, but alot of years not until August-Sept. Seems like in the spring there's always so much to do.
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Name: Remi
Fall. I dip my traps a month or so before trapping season.
The speed dip takes a week or more to dry depending on the moisture level in the air. Once they are dry to my satisfaction I hang them in the woods not far from my house. I hang them far enough so the smoke from the peoples houses wont stink them up.
Perhaps I should dip them earlier to allow for a longer time in the woods
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Name: edward
towards end of summer. summer over time to think about trapping.
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Name: jerry applegate
summer that way the traps have time to get rid of any order.
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Name: wayne warren
i usually boil my traps in the summer, redye and wax them again, cleans all the hair and blood off them. i like to start with clean traps before the season starts
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Name: dan
summer
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Name: NEBowhunter
I like to try early spring right after season so they are done for next year. most of the time it ends up in the fall before season
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Name: Skipper
Fall. I enjoy boiling and waxing I never thought of it as work (It is all part of trapping)I also found that If I leave my traps hang at the wrong place (In the direct sun) that the wax coating suffers so I never do this befor Sept.
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Name: bert. b
4 weeks before pelts sould be prime
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Name: Nick
I almost invariably due mine a few weeks before the season. I know it should be done as soon as the season is over but i like other trappers get into the new season and forget trapping. It is a better solution if you do it sooner than I do and am trying to be able to that some time in the future. The traps would surely benefit from early cleaning too...
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Name: redsnow
I use anti-freeze at my dirt-sets from opening day on through the season. Once I pull my sets, I like to get that stuff off my traps. I'll either use a garden hose to rinse them, or take them to the car wash, and I have wired them together and let them soak and swirl-around in the river for a week or so (one of my landowners has a private bridge across the river). As far as dyeing and waxing, I've always done that in October, just before season. While I'm waiting for the water to get hot, gives me time to "fine-tune" everything and check tags, etc. I usually use walnut hulls for dye, and here most of them are on the ground by mid-October.
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Name: Trapper 63
Around September, when you can feel the change in weather. It gets me in the mindset for another great season.
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Name: underdog
I usually wait untill fall to clean and prep my traps after several monthts of grinding out the trap line I need the spring and summer to recuperate. I start to get the bug again about the end of August
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Name: mike juza
i like too get my traps all died and waxed in the spring/early summer so that they have time too dry and air out before the trapping season. It also gets me exited about the coming year of traping.
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Name: Andy Brethorst
September is the month that works best for me. The weather is still warm but showing signs of fall. In my state this is still two months away from trapping season but it gets me thinking about organizing my gear. This is when I start my serious planning for my trapline also. Planning is probably the most important part of having a successful season.
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Name: act furry
i wash them off in a creek or something. after they are out of the field I wash them with the hose and store them dried until I dip or dye and wax them.
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Name: Jack Turner
Several weeks before the start of the trapping season. I have plenty to do in the spring & summer. By fall, I'm getting antsy for trapping and this not only gives me something to do, but kinda gets me in the trapping frame of mind.
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Name: Hal
I've always been pretty good about taking care of my tools, and traps are tools. I could never see letting them lay around all summer to rust. My goal has always been to have all my traps, cleaned, protected, and ready to go for the next season by the first day of May.
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Blind Sets For Coon. Coon Trappers: How much, if at all, do you use blind sets for coon. Please explain.
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Name: slick
i blind set about 50/50 depending on the situation.
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Name: 220cooner
in the past i've used mostly baited sets but this year i'm going to try trapping in culverts
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Name: MEtrapper
I very rarely use blind sets for raccoons. The few I trap each season are always on baited sets. I started trapping pests with baited live traps and I guess it stuck with me.
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Name: littleguns
Very little. Mostly at funnels or cross overs. Where I trap it is hard to find where coons have a set path. You have a better time stacking marbles.
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Name: Rick Davidson
I will utilize a blind set for Coon when I find a good natural place to make a set that would prove advantangeous to make. For example, I have found places on the creek I trap that has high banks on both sides where the coon are walking along the mud bank flat next to shore and for the to proceed they have a tunnel or a path going through a tree growing on the sides of the bank with all kinds of large roots creating an obstical for them to continue their journey down along the water line. Depending on the size of these entangled tree roots they pass through and wether it is like a tunnel or just a path snaking up, around and through these tree roots determines the type of set I make. If they have made a tunnel to get through back to their original trail, I'll place a 220 conbear on either side of the tunnel which works well. If they just have a winding path up and around these roots, I choose to make a blind dirt hole set by burying an 1-1/2" CS or 1-3/4" CS on a area they are going to have to transverse to continue. I have also found where coon, fox and sometimes coyotes have a hole in a barbed with fence that a well placed concealed snare can yeild any of these animals passing through. of course If realize it is predominately coon passing through, I keep my snare look smaller and closer to the ground than I would for fox or yotes. So I would say that my ration for blind sets is approximately 1 blind set to every 10 types of other sets.
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Name: KD
Blind sets make up probably 90% of my sets, most of them snares.
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Name: Remi
There are a lot of better sets for coons then using blind sets for me
I use baited sets because I have access to fresh bait that the coons
cant get enough of.
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Name: Big John
Snares are always blind sets, and I use a lot of them. I use some 220's in creeks, if they can be narrowed down. I haven't set a foothold in a blind set for coon in probably 30 years. It's too easy to pop in a pocket set with bait to direct them to the set.
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Name: edward
i would say snares in trails are blind sets. about 70% are used.
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Name: wayne warren
i use 50% blind and 50% baited sets, believe it the blind sets produce better than to baited sets, coons here in kentucky have a lot to eat, even when the streams freeze, there are lots of farms here that have cattle and horses that feed every day and there is always feed left over for the coons.
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Name: dan
trail sets with snares, 220's, and 1.5 coils.
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Name: NEBowhunter
Hardly ever. A coon is so taylor made for bait sets, why take the extra time and energy to try and find blind sets. Gang set with lure or bait and pick up a few. Now in the case you do, its a trail set with a snare or bodygrip.
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Name: Skipper
About 10% most of my coon sets are courosity or bait sets
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Name: Kevin
I use blind sets at about 10 percent of my coon sets I would say. I really enjoy blind coon sets for the simple reason they don't stop working. If you get a huge rain and your trap set gets washed out it is useless but a blind set will still be there when the water level drops. Same with freezing weather, when the ice melts the trap is going to be ready for the next passing animal.
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Name: Nick
I do very little blind coon setting with the exception of trail sets. It is much easier in my estimation to dig a pocket set or even put a fish on a stick along the stream or wood trail and be sure of a catch. When setting a lot of traps, i find blind setting slows me down as i am looking for the perfect set.
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Name: redsnow
"Blind" coon sets are almost nonexistent in the woods. Nearly all of the streams I've trapped have a good "blind" location within 50 yards up or downstream. Little places where the rocks or "drift-piles" force animals into one small path. Even if I find a really good "blind" location, with lots of tracks, I'll still add a dab of lure or a spoonfull of bait. Just my opinion, the bait or lure won't keep me from catching muskrats using the location, and should be more attractive to coon or mink. I just figure if I can keep the animal at the set for another 5 seconds, chances are better for a catch.
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Name: trapper 63
At least one a stop depending on sign. At each bridge I always try to locate three good coon sets. Usually at least one will be a blind set.
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Name: Matt
Maybe 50%. I like them at narrow spots at or near the water's edge, especially where you find tracks. Why take the time to dig a pocket here? I particularly like them where a section of bank has fallen away and you can use or widen a notch there. I also look for narrow trails leading from the high bank to the water, especially if they form on a ledge. I try to set high enough there that the trap continues to work when the water comes up.
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Name: butch
Email: cbarberjr@stny.rr.com
I don't use them at all. They come so readily to lure or bait I see no need for them. If I do see a good blind set I still will use bait at the set.
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Name: lov 2 trap
not much in water but 95% on land with coni. and snares. its alot easyer to put in a blind set than a dirt hole or baited set
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Name: Tyler Christian
I use blind sets for coon more than anything here in Iowa. I set the blind set on faint trails leading to/from cornfields, with a small amount of coon urine nearby, works great.
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Name: Andy Brethorst
I use blind sets for coon when the structure and the sign make it obvious. Other than setting coon trails which are natural blind sets, I look for places at the waters edge. Anywhere the coon has to walk around a log, rock, or is naturally funneling through is a sure fire blind set. In my experience, I catch more mink in these locations also when they aren't slowed down by a lure or bait scent.
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Name: act furry
50/50 some pocket sets some dirthole sets and some blind sets
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Name: Jack Turner
I only set a few blind sets for coon each season. While blind sets certainly have their place and could potentially help catch a more desired furbearer (i.e. mink, fox), I would rather play the odds and have a coon work a set, than hope that it steps on a pan on it's first, and maybe it's only, pass through.
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Name: eric cottrell
Over the course of the year, blind sets probably consist of about 60 to 70 percent of my coon sets. Snares in dry land trails, 220s and 280s in both dry and water sets, and #2 victor longsprings in blind water sets on drowners. I had rather make blind sets instead of bait sets, just for knowing I put the trap in the exact travel route of the animal. A lot of places are just too much trouble to find a blind set. In these areas, I use bait sets.
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Name: Hal
I'm not a big coon trapper. I use a lot of blind sets just because they are easy to make. Still I recognize that coons are easy to bait and lure so when I really want to catch a few of them, I add some bait sets to the mix. Maybe half and half.
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Canine Lures. Canine trappers: How many different lures do you carry regularly on a canine line?
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Name: AndyZ
I use about 4 regularly and change it up with a new one if I have too.
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Name: archer01
one long range atractant lure. two different bait lures. fox urine. coyote urine. coyote gland lure. Sometimes I'll grab something different. I like changing up if things are slow. I still experiment.....
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Name: Dan Teague
3 types of lure and 2 different baits.
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Name: bob donstontonington
it depends on how long your line is. i carry 3 or 4.
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Name: John Smith
I use 2 of my homemade urins, Aunt Jamimas fox urin, and old man jakons red fox lure. When i started out i used digets canine lure i am 14 and i live in Pennsalvania
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Name: Bill B
two or three kinds of lures. One is a musk type and the others are either gland or food based. I also carry a bottle of urine like carmens pro mix for scent posts.
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Name: wmthrower
Only a couple. I don't run a long line so with the combination with lure, bait and urine, I find that I can put out enough different sets for my line
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Name: awilson
I generally carry two to three different lures, this is in addition to my bait and urine. I try to keep notes during my preseason scouting and keep track of which lures, baits, etc. have shown results and so limit the amount of lures that I take with me to the actual set locations.
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Name: Kyle
3 0r 4 plus a jar of bait.
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Name: skipper
I carry more than I should I enjoy playing with the different smells Probally 8-10 canine lures and 3-4 water lures.
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Name: Jack Turner
I generally carry 5-7 different canines lures- a mix of glandular, curiosity, call, etc. These are often a mix of 3 different brands. I must admit that I have a large number of canine lures, however, like I stated, only carry 5-7 at one time. Generally, I don't use the same lures year after year. Yes, I have one or two personal favorites, but often lures used on the line are different year to year. No theory here. Just something I do.
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Name: ralph
6 or 7
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Name: Mike Marchewka
10-15...in the truck box...4-6 in my bucket
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Name: redsnow
I'm constantly experimenting with new lures, some I buy at auctions, and I have a couple guys that tinker at making their own lures. Usually I'll have a dozen different lures in the truck, but really, I'm only using 3 or 4 lures after a few days.
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Name: MB
Around 5 or 6 lures regularly carried on the line. Types and amount of skunk in lure change as the season progresses.
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Name: TexA
Six to eight or so.......
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Name: Hal
I carry about 6 lures with me in my set bucket.
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